Vasa By 72Nova - FINISHED - Airfix - PLASTIC

[72Nova]

Those 2 pictures show a lot, thanks Peter. The 2nd picture shows a block attached to either the deck or inside of the bulwark?, the one with the dotted line. Guess I'll have to purchase the Vasa 2 book to find out 😄

The color scheme is starting to take shape, I fabricated a block with 3 sheaves that sits into the railing and started mocking up the gun port lid ropes, for this I'm using 100wt bobbin thread that looks to be the perfect scale. Thanks for looking.

 

Michael D.

 

[baskerbosse]

Looking good!

 

The dotted line is the outline of the port side of the mainsail. The dotted block you see is for the clewline.

[72Nova]

Working on the deck mods at the moment, started by cutting out the molded in gratings and since I'm using a veneer deck I needed to build up the framework using misc styrene. The gratings are model shipways 33mm sq. 1mm unassembled and once the deck is glued down or before, I'll need to figure out where to cut the deck for the top rope falls and any other deck pieces besides the bitts and knightheads.

 

Michael D.

 

[Ian_Grant]

Wow, those Airfix parts look pretty nicely molded, and the veneer deck is A-plus.

[72Nova]

I'd have to agree with you on that Ian, they are really crisp, and the fitment is really good as well even in the dry fit stage.

I cut open the deck just aft the fore bitts to create the access to the lower deck, and did some modifications to the fore bitts, although barely visible I did create 4 sheaves. The Knighthead will be tough though, trying to cut in 4 sheaves and make it look to scale could be too difficult at this scale, but we shall see!

 

Michael D.

 

[72Nova]

With the deck modifications nearing completion I needed to figure out how to deal with the main halliard fall as this would require to be rigged prior to fitting the deck, this is what I've come with in my mock up, obviously I still need to fab up a rams head for the final but I think it'll work just fine.

 

Michael D.

[baskerbosse]

Nice!

Here's a picture of the actual block if needed:


Cheers,
Peter

Edited November 13, 2022 by baskerbosse

[72Nova]

Just what I was looking for Peter!👍 I do have a question regarding the older set of plans Fred Hocker had posted many years ago, 7 sheets I think? and noted that are some errors that I think mainly are related to the line,  exterior and deck but my focus is on the the sections and belaying plans as I want to attach all necessary ring bolts/blocks to the deck before assembly IE: truss tackle, halliards, bowlines locations etc, also I noticed the the tackle for the main stay collar appears to have 6 hole rectangular looking dead eyes and would like your thoughts on this particular set of plans?

Thank you,

Michael D.

[Waldemar]

 

A newer version of the belaying plan was posted on the Vasa forum some time ago by Fred Hocker. Not of the highest resolution, but still quite readable. Here you are.

 

 

[baskerbosse]

Yes, that should be a fair enough belaying plan.
Probably be an even better one in Vasa II though, I would guess.. 🙂

The plans that Fred would have posted was probably the old museum plans.
They are still pretty good, but as you said, has some errors due to new research discovering new things.

As for the main stay collar, it is correct with six holes for the upper deadeye and four holes for the lower.
It is thought that fore, main and mizzen stays were all rigged this way, though it's only for the fore stay that both deadeyes survive.

You will notice that the main halliard is in the way when you try to rig the mizzen stay in the same way. This stay will need to go on the port side of the main mast in order to provide clearance for the halliard..

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Peter

[72Nova]

Thank you Waldemar and Peter👍. After looking at the latest belaying plans I needed to add an additional 20 belaying pins along the rails, unfortunately gentlemen  I'll likely be knee deep into the rigging by the time Vasa 2 book is released, with that said I see Ver. 07 of the plans show no belaying points of the fore and main trusses so I'll have to make an educated guess on those but logic would say either abaft or aft at the base of the masts?. Now regarding the main stay collar deadeyes I suppose they're rigged like the shroud deadeyes except after passing through all 4 holes on the lower you still have 2 holes remaining in the upper..hmmm, would the line loop through those and tie off at the stay?

 

Michael D.

[baskerbosse]

No, the rigging of these deadeyes are quite different;

Got this from Fred Hocker many years ago(from memory):
Pass the lanyard half way through between the four hole deadeye and the collar's top end and seize it there so you essentially have two lanyards.
Pass one end through the lower middle hole of the six hole deadeye, then through the closest port side hole of the four hole deadeye. Then up through the closest hole on the port side of the six hole deadeye, followed by the furthest port side hole of the four hole deadeye.
Lastly through the furthest port side hole of the six hole deadeye and then down to the stay collar of the four hole deadeye and seize it there.

Repeat for starboard side. (starting through upper middle hole of six hole deadeye)

All holes used!

Hope this helps?
Peter

Edited November 18, 2022 by baskerbosse

[72Nova]

That helps greatly Peter, I would've never thought of rigging the lanyard that way👍. Working on fitting the bulkhead to the deck and not quite liking it, I knew as supplied the deck has a raised step in it and I thought the bulkhead railing would cover or at least rest on top but that is not the case so I shaved it down and scribed planks in it.... while it's visible seam I was fine with it then realized when I fit the bulkhead, I'd have 2 seams which doesn't look very good so I cut a piece veneer to solve that issue and looks presentable.

Up next will be the stairs and fabricating the grating in the beakhead, I'm still undecided whether or not to build the doors. Thanks again Peter for your help.

 

Michael D.

Edited November 18, 2022 by 72Nova

[Hubac's Historian]

Great solutions to vexing problems.  I really like the distress wash you applied to the veneer deck.  I was wondering how you would approach that.  Regarding the beakhead doors, my main thought is that these doors existed to resist the punching seaways.

[72Nova]

Hi Marc,

I used a thinned wash of acrylic raw umber followed by a thin wash of black then sprayed some flat clear.

I'd say that's a reasonable assumption regarding the doors and more then likely I'll fab some up.

Michael D.

[72Nova]

The beakhead grating modifications are completed by painstakingly cutting away unwanted areas and creating the openings for the gammoning, also added some deck detail to the bulkhead filler piece. Thanks for looking.

 

Michael D.

[Jeff T]

Great work with those modifications to the beakhead grating — it can be tough with plastic pieces to clear out small areas.  I remember the challenge that I had when cutting out the solid windows in the aftcastle of my galleon.  This work looks even more delicate.

[72Nova]

Thank you Jeff, the Revell Spanish Galleon is actually my favorite of their large ships and yours is looking fantastic. A small update focusing on the bowsprit area, I tried to simulate the joint, metal banding, fashioned a knee and added the starboard bulkhead door, once I mocked up the gammoning I fabricated the cleats. I think at this point I'm committed to finishing up the spritsail top, maybe even rig the shrouds before I install the assembly.

 

Michael D.

 

[Jeff T]

Thanks, Michael!  Yours is looking quite like what I’ve seen of pictures of the real Vasa in Stockholm — it’s a unique way to do the kit, like a mini museum!

[72Nova]

Thanks Jeff! I have the spritsail mast mounted and completed the shrouds, I ended up having to make the deadeyes and they measure out to be under 2mm to give it a somewhat proper scale, the shrouds I used .20mm line and 100wt thread for the ratlines and lanyards, I think overall the scale looks pretty good for this surgical procedure at this scale, also I modified the top by cutting out the lower sections and adding some banding for a little more detail. I still have much more to do in this area but thanks for looking and Happy Thanksgiving.

 

Michael D.

[Hubac's Historian]

Every bit of this is super-impressive, Michael.

[72Nova]

Thank you Marc, much appreciated! More eye straining work continues on the spritsail mast, I have the backstay pendants rigged using 100t thread and 1.5mm blocks, the top mast yard lift blocks using 1.5mm blocks, the tie using .20mm line with a 2mm single block stropped at one end and the halliard using 60wt thread passing through the top and a 2mm single block to be belayed later at the bowsprit. Lastly the fore top gallant bowline blocks attached to the shrouds. Up next will be the spritsail topsail yard and all it's necessary hardware, this will be interesting as my plan is to rig her with tightly furled sails.

 

Michael D.

[Hubac's Historian]

Since you are doing this model as recovered and re-constructed, might you consider doing an as-recovered sail?

[kirill4]

Good day!

It is going to be very nice model! I liked your paintings and rigging very much!...

if not too late,

there is real sense to replace bowsprit and masts and may be top masts as well for the "wooden material"...

leaving original plastic yards and masts there would be a big risk of their deterioration/bending during  standing rigging  phase... replacing for the wood or other strong materials gradually will improve situation... :))) 

especially bowsprit \ which will be loaded(even with smallest possible load of fore stays)  with all fore stays , spritsail top sail backstay and without bobstays in that period- this is really most of weak points in this respect... when it curved up on the model with spritsail topsail declined aft, it will looks not nice...

All the best !

Kirill

 

[72Nova]

I like your thought process on this Marc! The fact this sail survived virtually intact is astonishing and I think makes perfect sense to incorporate it set into my build.

Nice to hear from you Kirill, your suggestions are valid, and I may end up having to fabricate them, although I hope not. I really hate to redo all my efforts I've invested into the as supplied bowsprit and spritsail mast thus far and as spindly as they look, they are quite up to the task...I think. I'm in the process of mocking up the aforementioned issues that the stays present and see how well the spritsail mast holds up....fingers crossed.

 

Michael D.

 

   

[72Nova]

A quick mock up of the spritsail backstay looks promising, the key here in my opinion is the 100wt silk thread, this stuff is so light and hangs naturally  and is barely pulling on the fore stay.

 

Michael D.

[Hubac's Historian]

Michael, do you use a combination of laid-up scale rope, as well as various standard thread weights?

[72Nova]

HI Marc,

I bought various sizes of Chucks scale rope, the smallest 0.20mm I used for the shrouds and the mock up fore stay is 0.76mm, the difference in the thread weight is clearly visible....the stay pendants are 60wt vs 100wt for the crows feet and honestly at this scale I will be using both of these for most of the rigging.

Michael D.

[kirill4]

Good day Michael,

I see... than I could wish You be lucky with using original plastic spars...

if You will manage to make standing righings " straight" without applying any or very light tensions on them, it would be very nice!

There could be helpfull to paint ropes before use them on model, and keep them hanging under weight a few days...oil paint deluted with oil when polimerized  will make thread as kind of soft wire, which could hold straight shape with min. load... 

[kirill4]

To imitaite gravity force when rope passes trough block ,and make it not looks loosened, a small drop of CA gel could be used... wet by CA gel a piece of thread which will pass trough the block hole , pull it trough the hole a little ,and than hold tightly by fingers for a few sec in desired directions...

Edited November 27, 2022 by kirill4