Erycina by Glenn-UK - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Plymouth Ketch-Rigged Trawler

[Glenn-UK]

I am ready to start work on building the Erycina. I am really looking forward to this build project, which will be my 6th Vanguard Models kit build.

 

I will post regular updates showing my progress, along with photos. I will also detail some of the build processes I normally use to complete the more complex constructional aspects.

[Glenn-UK]

001 - Hull Construction Part 1

There is not going to be much of a description in this post as I have simply been following the build manual instructions verbatim.

 

With the manual on the workbench along with the first MDF sheet I am now ready to make a start.

Using my rotary tool, the initial fairing of the first 5 bulkheads to the guideline was carried out. When I started on bulkhead 5, I had a senior moment started to apply a reverse camphor. I marked out the required sanding line on the other side of bulkhead 5 and carried on. Not a great start and I hope it is not a bad omen.

Next the camphor's were added the last three bulkheads. You will note, both on the previous photo and the photo below, that I have added some pencil marks on the bulkheads and keel. These marks indicate the bottom the locating slots. When the pencil marks are aligned, I know the parts are fully engaged.

Stage 1 completed

Next up was camphor and add the filler pieces. I need to review some other build logs to check the bow filler pieces camphor's along the keel edge with the bulkheads. There is plenty of material to sand in order to get a smooth line, or I can fill the gaps with some offcuts.

With all the bulkheads and filler pieces in place it was time to add the deck. Apart from the filler pieces, which were glued in place (as per the instructions), everything is still a dry fit.

Bulkheads 12, 10, 7 and 4 require a cross piece to be glued in place. With the pieces in place, I used some clamps to hold the parts in place as the glue gripped.

The two longitudinal hull brace patterns were slotted into place followed by the 2 sets of stern frames (inner, middle and outer).

With everything looking good I mixed up a diluted titebond solution and brushed it in between all the joints. The hull will now be left overnight to fully cure before I move on to the next build phase.

 

[DB789]

Glenn, I’ll be following closely as I’ll be starting my Erycina very soon. Thanks for all the advice on Saucy Jack which is nearly complete. 

[Glenn-UK]

002 - Hull Construction Part 2

I have made a bit more progress. I had just coated a diluted titebond solution to the bulkhead joints so as I was waiting for the glue to cure, I decided to check some of the deck items. I started with the main sheet housing which slots into the deck. Once I had removed the laser char from the visible edges, I did a test fit with the deck. As can be seen it was a perfect fit.

As I started to assemble the parts I used a straight edge to check and set the correct alignment.

The basic main sheet housing assembly is now complete. I will add the cleat, block and eyebolt later on as the assembly still requires a bit of tidy up work

Once the bulkhead joints glue had fully cured, I went ahead and fitted the deck. I took my time as the deck was carefully positioned and I ensured it was fully engaged with the all the bulkhead securing slots. Once I was happy the underside joints were coated with a diluted titebond solution.

With the deck glued in place it was time to fair the bulkheads. I used a length of planking material to check the fairing. As can be seen in the photo below the test plank is a nice fit except in a couple of places so a bit more work is required.

I am now happy with how the plank lays.

When considering how the inner stern counter should be fitted, I have noted the bottom edges of the various stern frames will need fairing for a smooth curved fit.

I have also checked the fit of the stern, keel and stem patterns, dry fit only so far.

I have also dry fitted the front and rear bulwarks, taking care to use the line on the bulwarks to align with the deck.

Edited October 5, 2022 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

003 - Deck Items

With the inner stern counter immersed in hot water for 30 mins I faired the stern frames. Once I was happy with the stern frame fairing the inner stern counter was clamped in place. This will be left clamped to allow the inner stern counter to fully dry out.

I noted in the build manual that the lower from end tabs of the front bulwarks required a bevel so the part will sit flush with the side of the hull bulkheads.

As I waited for the inner stern counter to dry, I decided to build some of the deck items. I started with the fish hatches. It is important to remove the laser char from the visible edges when releasing parts from the sheets.

When assembling the ladder, once the laser char had been removed, I have found it best to start by gluing two rungs to one side. This will be left for a few minutes to allow the glue to grip.

After a few minutes the other side of the ladder was glued in place. This assembly will be left for a few minutes to allow the glue to grip

It is then a simple task to insert the remaining rungs to complete the ladder assembly

The next item to build was the companionway. This was a simple item to build. I am pleased that the roof door slides smoothly in the slots.  I just need to add the front doors to complete the assembly. I have not added these doors as they required two PE hinges. I have started to prepare the PE parts. The PE sheet has been through a through cleansing process using a mixture soaking the sheet in hot soapy water and acetone.

[Glenn-UK]

004 - Bulwarks and Priming

The keel, stem and stern posts have now been glued in place. As you would expect with a Vanguard Models kit everything fitted together without any problems.

As I was checking the bulkheads during the final fairing process I added some pencil marks, as can be seen on the photo below, to indicate where the planks will lay.

The 4 bulwark parts were soaked in hot water for 30 mins before they were clamped in place. These will be left clamped for at least 12 hours to ensure the strips have fully dried out.

Whilst waiting for the bulwarks to dry I have taken the PE sheet, which had been cleaned with acetone and soapy water, and I applied a coat of primer. Once the primer is dry, I can apply the required colour to each part.

There were a few a more parts to clean and prime. In the photo below they are in a bath of acetone and the soapy water bath can also be seen in the photo. I tend to soak the parts in the soapy water first for around 10 mins before using a toothbrush to gently on the parts. I then transfer the parts to the acetone and repeat the toothbrush cleaning process after about 10 mins. The parts will go through another soapy water and acetone bath treatment before being washed in clean water and dried.

I made a simple jig to hold the parts and then applied a coat of primer. I haven't primed the chain pipe as the resin part supplied is black and I am undecided if I will leave as is or if I will paint green, as shown in the manual.

There is not a lot more I can do at the moment. I could start making the masts, bowsprit, etc. but I think I will leave that for another time.

Edited October 7, 2022 by glennard2523

[Bowline]

Coincidentally I left that part unpainted - but I regret that decision as its a little translucent as it turns out - I've been meaning to go back and paint it 

 

[Craigie65]

Looking good, you are certainly cracking on with your biuld!

[James H]

I would always advise priming/painting 3D parts as the resin does probably have a few microns (at least) of translucency to a normal depth.

 

Where the part is thin, you'll easily see daylight through it.

[Glenn-UK]

005 - Bulwarks, inner stern counter and more deck items

The bulwarks had been left for 24 hours to fully dry out, clamped to the hull. With the clamps removed they had retained the required bend.

 

Taking each bulwark in turn, the position of the bulkheads were marked and a small 0.5mm hole drilled for the brass pins. Glue was then applied to the bulkheads below the deck and along the deck edge and the bulwarks were then pinned in place. I was very happy with the end result.

Once the glued had cured the inner stern counter was glued into place. So far so good, what could possibly go wrong.

It was then I then noted the left-hand rear bulwark was a bit floppy at the stern end. On closer inspection I realised the outer left side stern counter had snapped at the point shown in the photo below. I think the damaged happened when the inner stern counter was clamped in place and was probably not sitting fully on the stern frame even though I thought I had checked that. In the photo below the damaged part has been glued back in place and you will not that I am using the transom rail to help ensure in is set in the right position

Thankfully I was able to release the left-hand rear bulwark without too much effort and without damage. As can be seen in the photo below there is sone glue deposits and traces of the outer stern frame on the bulwark which I will need to remove.

To remove the glue deposits the bulwark was soaked in hot water for 30 mins which did the trick. The part was then clamped back in place and will now be left to fully dry out (again).

I will have to take care when fitting the part with regards to the inner stern counter. As can be seen in the photo below there is slight positional problem which needs to be avoided when the part is glued in place.

I have now made the capstan assembly. As can be seen in the photo below the top red section is not fully seated (or glued) on the lower section at the moment. The instructions did indicate that the slot for part PE-45 (a small upright post) was missing from part PE-41 (top section). It suggested cutting off the unexposed length of PE-45 and glue directly to the small, raised position on PE-45. I opted to modify part PE-45 by adding the missing slot. The upper red section would have looked much so much better with an air brush paint job rather than a paint brush. Another tool to add to my wish list.

The remaining green parts have also been hand painted.

 

 

[James H]

Hi Glenn,

 

Those sides needed fairing in far more before you added the bulwarks. Sanding needs to be done to fair the MDF into the deck edge at the rear, and that will also bevel those stern timbers, possibly by half. Take a look at my pics. Also, that lower counter needed sanding into the hull. Check out the subsequent pics in manual. You need to ensure the lines of the hull flow and you have maximum bulwark contact to the timbers.

 

[Glenn-UK]

2 hours ago, James H said:

Hi Glenn,

 

Those sides needed fairing in far more before you added the bulwarks. Sanding needs to be done to fair the MDF into the deck edge at the rear, and that will also bevel those stern timbers, possibly by half. 

 

Many thanks James

Both rear bulwarks are removed so I can fair the outer stern frames as they should be done.

Glenn

Edited October 9, 2022 by glennard2523

[wool132]

Dang - what a forum! Instant feedback from the prototype builder hisself!!

 

Jonathan

[Glenn-UK]

006 - More Fairing, Planking Issue and Deck Items

As @James H pointed out I had not faired the outer stern frames. This has now been done. The bulwarks are still drying after being soaked to remove the residual wood glue, so they are only clamped on the hull in the pictures below.

I then decided to check how the first plank would look. For the most part I am really happy with the how this plank will lay. However, I did detect an area where there is a gap as can be seen in the next photo. As there is no gap between the bulwarks and bulkheads this is probably due to me over fairing some of the bulkheads. It is not a major issue as I will just add some filler shims so, when fitted, the plank will be at the same level as the bulwarks.

I then thought it would be fun to test fit the some of the deck items. Some of these deck items require some PE parts to be added. The sheet is currently in the paint shop where I am waiting for the black paint (sprayed on) to dry

 

[Glenn-UK]

007 - Deck Items and Start of First Planking

I have done a bit more work with the deck items now that all the PE parts have been painted.

 

The photo below shows the companionway doors with hinges and handles fitted

I have now added the double block and PE parts to the Main Sheet Housing as shown below.

The parts have been added to the Gypsy Winch. I have only dry fitted the three brass wire parts as they still need to be cut to the right length. I have test fitted the which to the deck as shown in the next two photos.

The parts have been added to the Main Windlass. I have only dry fitted the brass wires as they still need to be cut to the right length. I have test fitted the windlass to the deck as shown in the next two photos.

As indicated in a previous post I noted that I would need to add some shims to the bulkheads before I could start the planking which I have now done, as can be seen in the photo below.

When starting to add the first plank to the stern area I felt it was better to let the plank following a natural path which meant I will need to add a steeler to fill the gap.

The first plank has been fitted.

I did dry fit the stem rabbet pattern and drew a pencil line which will aid me when planking to the stem post.

When fitting the planks, I am beveling the top edge before fitting which does help get a better joint between the planks.

I have been taking my time adding the planks and I have completed three planks.

 

[Bowline]

moving smartly along

[Glenn-UK]

25 minutes ago, Bowline said:

moving smartly along

Slow and steady but I'm making good progress 

[Glenn-UK]

008 - First Planking WIP

I have now completed planking the right-hand side of the Erycina hull. The planks went on without too many issues.

 

The first three planks did not require any tapering around the bow area. Once I had completed the first 5 planks, I moved on to add the garboard plank and I then continued to plank upward.

 

There are a few little bumps and dips, but I don't think it will require a great deal of sanding or filling to get a nice smooth surface ready for the second planking.

The stern area turned out reasonably neat.

The bow area also looks OK.

I have now started to plank the left-hand side. I have added the first top plank and the bottom garboard plank. I would expect to complete planking this side in the next couple of days.

I have also added the small stern filler piece above the top plank.

Edited October 12, 2022 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

009 - First Planking Completed

The first planking of the Erycina hull is now complete. Despite this being my 10th model boat project, I still seem to struggle with mastering the planking techniques. I certainly made a much better job of the right-hand side planking compared with the left-hand side on the Erycina.

 

I have given the hull its first pass of sanding and, for the most part, the hull is now reasonably smooth. I will revisit the state of the hull when I'm next in the shipyard and will continue to sand where appropriate. It is vitally important to get a smooth hull structure before adding the second layer of planking.

 

In no particular order I have attached a selection of photos showing the completed first planking.

Edited October 13, 2022 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

010 - Preparation for 2nd Planking

After sanding the hull some more this morning I was happy the hull was smooth except for a couple of areas with dips which needed filling.

I used my tried and trusted method for making a suitable filler paste which is a mix of Ronseal multi-purpose natural wood filler, titebond original wood glue and water. I use an approx. 50 / 50 split between the diluted wood filler and titebond. I am unable to take credit for the mixture as @James H described mixing diluted wood filler and titebond in one of his build logs. The photo below shows the ingredients ready to be mixed. 

Once the ingredients have been mixed, I end up with a nice smooth paste.

The filler paste is then pressed into the dip on the hull and is left to dry.

Once the filler paste had dried it is ready to sand smooth. The dip has been filled and the hull looks and feels smooth.

Now that I am happy with the hull, I decided to dry fit the keel, stem and stern rabbet patterns along with the outer bulwark patterns. The leading edge of both front outer bulwark patterns will need a little bit of sanding to get a good fit with the stem post.

After fairing the stern frames, the stern board was glued in place.  The outer stern counter pattern had been soaked in hot water for about 20 minutes and was then clamped in place and will be left to fully dry out before I can glue it in place.

[Glenn-UK]

011 - Outer Patterns Fitted

I have now fitted all the outer to the patterns (rabbet and bulwarks). I had a slight issue with the left-hand rear bulwark. With it glued in place I noted, when checking the run of the first 2nd planking, that the stern area required a bit more fairing under the bulwark area. Taking great care, I was able to release the outer rear bulwark pattern without damage. With the fairing redone the outer rear bulwark was reglued and looks OK.

With regards to the second planking, I was planning to fit full length planks. The photo below shows a test second plank dry fitted to the hull.

It looks good with the plank located in the stem post rabbet.

However, there is a slight problem with the stern area as the first plank is not quite long enough to be fitted as one plank as can be seen in the photo below.

I have two options, as detailed below:

Option A - Fit the plank as shown above and to then add a small filler piece to fill the gap.

Option B - Fit two planks with a joint at the same point as the front and rear outer bulwarks.

 

I am more inclined toward option A at the moment, but I am open to other suggestions.

[James H]

Just add a little piece to infill there. It won't be seen.

[Glenn-UK]

2 minutes ago, James H said:

Just add a little piece to infill there. It won't be seen.

That's what I thought, thanks for the confirmation.

[Glenn-UK]

012 - Right-Hand Side Second Planking Completed

 

I have had limited time in the shipyard over the last few days due to some pressing family commitments, so progress on the build has been slow. This afternoon I have managed to complete the 2nd planking on the right-hand side of the hull. I used GA gel to glue the planks to the hull and I am reasonably happy with the end result.

 

I have added some pictures of the planking.

Stern area

Bow Area

I am not sure what I am going to do with the area marked in the next photo, but I am not overly concerned as this area will be painted. I have noted that @James H used a small filler piece on the prototype build which I probably replicate.

Edited October 18, 2022 by glennard2523

[Bowline]

I added a little fill in piece that worked OK

[Glenn-UK]

013 - Start of Second Planking Left-Hand Side

I have now made a start of the left-hand side second planking. I thought I would share my process in this respect. As can be seen in the first few photos I have added one plank below the outer bulwark pattern, and I have also added the garboard plank to along the keel.

I have now fitted the first three planks below the outer bulwark pattern. I did not get the clean joint I was after between the 2nd plank and the counter pattern so it will require a very small amount of filler.

I am also preparing the plank that sits next to the garboard plank. As there is a bend at the stern, I soaked the plank for a few minutes in hot water and then clamped the plank to the hull. The plank will be left to dry so the plank can retain the bend before it is glued in place.

[Glenn-UK]

014 - Completion of Second Planking

I have now completed the second planking of the left-hand side. The hull has also been sanded smooth, starting with 120 grit sandpaper and finished with 320 grit sandpaper. Although the hull looks and feels smooth, I am sure that when I apply a coat of white primer to the hull (below the waterline) there will be a few areas requiring further attention to correct before the final coats of paint can be applied.

[James H]

Looking real nice.

 

No matter how perfect we think we have the hull, paint always shows it isn't! I've never, ever been that lucky.

[Glenn-UK]

24 minutes ago, James H said:

Looking real nice.

 

No matter how perfect we think we have the hull, paint always shows it isn't! I've never, ever been that lucky.

Many thanks, painting the hull is great for showing up the imperfections.

[Glenn-UK]

015 - Waterline Thoughts

I thought I would add the waterline to the hull next. With the hull positioned in the stand with the aft stand peg securely located in the slot on the keel I was initially concerned that the keel was not level with the stand, as can be seen on the photo below.

I noted the keel angle was correct when I checked the angle of the waterline with the keel on the plan sheet, as can be seen below.

I then noted there was a mark on the stem post, as can be seen on the photo below.

My first thought was this would indicate the waterline position. I soon discounted that as it lower than where I would expect the waterline to be. I confirmed this by scaling the waterline position off the plan sheet (using an 0.85 scaling factor) to get an idea of where the waterline would be on the stem post. I concluded the mark on the stem post would indicate the start of the waterline load marking decals.