Bluenose 1921 by GGibson - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64

[GGibson]

Well, I got another phase of this Bluenose build accomplished, so thought I'd share what I did and where I have progressed to to-date.  Finishing up the work on the mast bands after completing the trestle trees on the upper part of the lower two masts.  Lots of soldering of small strips, rods and bolts.  For the mast bands above each of the trestle tree areas, I used a slightly-smaller-than 1/4" dowel held in a vise to initially shape the ten (10) needed bands for the tops of the lower masts.  I would wrap, measure and then cut the bands to (what I thought was) the appropriate circumference for the position on the mast.  I then would solder the individual brass strip, but was then finding that the newly-soldered bands were too tight to go back in the place I had just measured them for.  And this happened a few times.  Grrr... So, I had to give just a bit more "slack", for lack of better terms, when wrapping the strips, measuring, cutting and soldering so that each of the NEW bands then fit snuggly, but manageable.  As I had seen others do, I also typed out a little placement chart to keep all 10 of the bands organized while I was making them, soldering, etc.  Worked out well.

 

        

 

All of the bands need at least one hole in them, so used my new Proxxon drill with the precision vise to drill the necessary holes.  That worked out well, as I then placed the bands in their proper locations and, using a pin vise, drilled holes through the band holes into the masts for the eyebolt placement.

 

 

Next was working on the spring stay sail band on the foremast.  On other Bluenose build logs, I have seen others use either brass rods or brass strips to create and attach this spring stay bail band and the jib stay bail bands.  I thought using narrow brass strips (1/16" wide) would be easier to attach to the masts and mast bands, so I used strips (and I am running out of brass strip stock quickly!).  Anyways, the spring stay bail band went on well after shaping.

 

        

 

The cranes for each mast were made from 0.84mm eye pins soldered to 0.81mm brass rods. (In the zoomed-in picture below, they look a bit dirty, but were cleaned, of course, after soldering.)  Brass strips were cut for the back plates and the links on the back side.  Drilled holes using a #65 bit (.88mm) and placed the cranes in place on the two masts.  This all worked out pretty well.

 

        

 

For the mast caps on both the foremast and main mast, outer bands were shaped and soldered around the individual mast bands, and this all worked out pretty good, as well.  The pictures below were taken after they were soldered and fit on the masts, but before I did some cleanup and touchup on the soldered areas.

 

        

 

Finished out then, with the longer jib stay bail strips and long links on the fore mast.

 

        

 

        

 

Didn't take a great number of notes on the top masts, but it all came together well.  To recreate the mast tackle sheaves on both top masts, I first drilled two holes in each using the Proxxon drill and precision vise.  Then, using the Proxxon MF70 mill, I cut slits to shape what would appear to be a pulley inside.  Debating whether to do any more with these, but thought the mill did an excellent job of cutting those small grooves in the masts.

 

For the gilt ball on the top of the masts, I had purchased a small box of 30mm long brass ball head pins with a 1.9mm wide ball at the top.  I cut a couple of those and inserted them at the top of each mast.  I may take some sandpaper to these to dull them a bit, make them a bit less shiny, but otherwise much better to use these than to create something so small.  Speaking of small, I have NO idea how to make the truck for the flag halliards.  Tried cutting small small circles but everything was breaking.  I'll leave that for now until I get to that point in the rigging.

 

        

 

With that said, the masts (I think) are pretty much done.  Just for grins, I put everything together on the work stand, and  then on the ship itself, to see how it all looks.  Man, this ship is going to be big when done!

 

        

 

Now, I believe it's on to the booms and gaffs!  As I mentioned earlier, I have run through all of the 1/64" x 1/16" brass strips that I had in inventory.  Got some new brass strips, but they are not quite as thin as the 1/64" ones I had, so a bit harder to bend and shape.  Have another source I am querying, so we'll see if they come through, as it appears I have plenty more bands to create.

 

As always, appreciate the likes, comments and criticisms! 

 

[John Ruy]

Nice work on the soldering, the hardware is the toughest part of this build. She is looking really good. 👍 

[GGibson]

Thans, John!  I'm learnin'! 

[mtbediz]

You are very good at metal work. Everything looks so nice Greg!

[GGibson]

48 minutes ago, mtbediz said:

You are very good at metal work. Everything looks so nice Greg!

 

Not really, Mustafa, but I appreciate the confidence!  I'm getting a lot better than I was 6 months ago, though, so that is positive.  Thanks for the support!

[GGibson]

23 hours ago, GGibson said:

Now, I believe it's on to the booms and gaffs!  As I mentioned earlier, I have run through all of the 1/64" x 1/16" brass strips that I had in inventory.  Got some new brass strips, but they are not quite as thin as the 1/64" ones I had, so a bit harder to bend and shape.  Have another source I am querying, so we'll see if they come through, as it appears I have plenty more bands to create.

 

 

I found a couple sources for the 1/64" thin brass strips, I believe, and have ordered more.  Until those arrive, it appears I have plenty of sanding to do, however, to shape and taper the various dowel rods for the booms and gaffs.  Yay! 

[GGibson]

On 3/21/2024 at 9:05 PM, John Ruy said:

Nice work on the soldering, the hardware is the toughest part of this build. She is looking really good. 👍 

 

Appreciate your support, John!  Beginning the sanding work on the wood dowels for the booms and gaffs, and have your Bluenose Post #156 readily available for reference, coming up with a game plan.  👍

[GGibson]

Alright!  Beginning the work on the various booms and gaffs that will get attached to either of the two masts.  Cut out the laser pieces for the three (3) sets of jaws and sanded to remove the char.  Cut 1/8" and 1/4" dowels to size per the plans for all of the gaffs and booms, and sanded each one to the appropriate tapers and (as I had seen others do in their build logs) labeled them to keep organized.

 

 

MAIN BOOM - Made slight mill cuts on the port and starboard sides where the jaws are to be mounted.  Make sure to use the correct-sized jaws for this main boom!  There are differences in the shapes/sizes/lengths of each set of jaws!  Match with the plans.  Using the Proxxon drill press, I initially drilled #65 holes in the jaw sides in the appropriate locations, matching both jaw sides.  Also, lined up the two holes for the little clapper piece to sit in between the jaws.  Then, after gluing to the boom/dowel, I hand-drilled a bit more for each hole to adequately accept 0.81mm brass rods for the fake bolts. Drilled small holes at the tips for the parrel beads that will eventually be added once this is actually rigged to the main mast.  Drilled #52 holes in the top of each jaw for the belaying pins and another #65 hole for the eye bolt.  All in all, looking good.  A great start to this main boom construction.

 

       

 

LAZY JACK LINES - Not sure I did this "perfectly", but simply took a small 0.35mm black rope, tied loops on both ends, and wrapped around the bottom of the boom, securing each side with staples made from 0.51mm brass rod so that the loops stick up above the staples.

 

 

Moving on down the length of the main boom, the next thing shown on the plans was a cleat on the port side.  I had seen others carve their own cleats on their build logs, but I decided to simply use the "pre-made" cleats (think I used a supply of them on my last build) that had been painted black.  It takes a #55 drill bit for the hole to secure.  We'll call that done.  Looks good and in scale.

 

BOOM TACKLE BAND - This was the first in a series of several soldering exercises I was going to need to do on this main boom.  I shaped two (2) 1/64" x 1/16" brass strips around the boom.  Soldered the top joint.  Drilled 1/32" holes in the bottom and ran 0.81mm brass rod through after building a link to attach.  Trimmed the rod and cleaned up.  Using the Proxxon drill press (again!), I drilled #65 holes in each side for eyepins (not shown in this picture but in the next one with the bullseye fairleads).

 

          

 

BULLSEYE FAIRLEADS - Looked at several options to accomplish this piece, and decided to simply present this by using eyebolts on the port and starboard sides and then wrap with 0.5mm black rope with a visible knot on the top side.

 

 

QUARTER LIFT BAND - For this band, I soldered 1/64" x 1/16" strips for one side of the boom and then shaped the strips around the boom for fit.  Soldered the other side and drilled holes for eyebolts on each side.  Secured the eyebolts simply with CA glue, as I was concerned about soldering on top of existing solder.  Hope this will hold ok.  

 

         

 

MAIN SHEET BAND - Built this band similar to the quarter lift band above.  Drilled two holes on each side.  Wrapped a 0.83mm brass rod around a 5/16" wooden dowel for shape and inserted from bottom into the two inside holes on each side.  Soldered in place and cleaned.  Eyelets were put in place in the outside holes.  Have to say, for as poor as my soldering skills were several months ago, I thought these came out pretty sharp. Think I may finally have the hang of this.  <shrug>

 

        

 

 

SHEAVES - Using my Proxxon drill press, I drilled four (4) 1mm #60 holes in the boom in the appropriate spots, then moved the boom over to the Proxxon MF70 mill with a 1mm bit to carve the sheaves.  Worked out pretty well.

 

 

CLEW BAND - Again, like many of the other bands on this main boom, this clew band was similar to the other bands done previously.  Wrapped two (2) 1/64" x 1/16" brass strips around the boom.  Soldered with a hinge on the bottom (0.82mm brass rod cut flush). Drilled holes in the top for a bolt to eventually hold the clew iron, but will not put that bolt in until the rigging stage.

 

 

TOP LIFT BAND - This band goes at the very end of the main boom, and was probably the easiest of the bands we needed to create for this boom.  Wrapped, soldered and secured this band.  Placed it in the drill press and drilled three holes (port, starboard and top) for eyebolts, as well as one more for an eyebolt just in front of the one on top.  Hope those two aren't too close together.

 

 

And that finishes the main boom!  Yay!  The other booms and gaffs should be a bit easier.  Appreciate the likes, comments and criticisms, as always.

Edited March 28 by GGibson

[bobandlucy]

Awesome, you've come far, skills-wise, Gregg!

 

Bob

[GGibson]

35 minutes ago, bobandlucy said:

Awesome, you've come far, skills-wise, Gregg!

 

Bob

 

Thanks, Bob!  Actually, that's probably a fair statement, since I was SOOOOO lousy with some of these skills that it has been a long (and rewarding) journey to-date.  But... still lots of improvement to achieve.  Appreciate the kind words, sir! 

Edited March 31 by GGibson

[mtbediz]

Great job on the metal, Greg. Looks like brass material, have you ever thought of blackening it? It looks more realistic.

[GGibson]

Thanks, Mustafa!  Yes, they are brass strips.  And, yes, thought about blackening for a more realistic look, but guess I liked the shininess of the brass, so decided to keep it that way.  Easy way out, maybe!  I have blackened brass on prior builds but chose this way for the Bluenose.  I know I will need to do some blackening, though, on the other ships I will be working on after this one, including the Constitution!   Appreciate your input! 

[hamilton]

Really impressive metal work Gregg! 

hamilton

[GGibson]

3 minutes ago, hamilton said:

Really impressive metal work Gregg! 

hamilton

 

Appreciate the look-in and comment, hamilton! 

[GGibson]

Got a couple more of the booms completed, so a brief update...

 

FORE BOOM:

 

GOOSENECK - Wrapped a 1/64" x 1/16" brass strip (have been using a ton of these!), cut to shape and soldered.  Holy moly, the bands on these smaller booms and gaffs are going to be tiny!  Bent a small piece of brass strip and glued to the end that attaches to the foremast.

 

 

Boom Tackle Band - Soldered two strips together on one end, formed around the boom (again, very small!).  Drilled holes through the strips on the bottom of the boom to fit a 0.51mm brass rod for the link.  The circle link may be too big and I may switch it out before rigging and attaching to the fore mast.

 

Sheet Band - Similar to the Main Sheet Band that was made earlier for the Main Boom, except (yep, saying it again) this one is smaller.  Used a 0.51mm brass rod bent around a 1/4" wooden dowel for shape.

 

Clew Band - Did something a bit different for this clew band.  I used a 0.2mm brass sheet (half the thickness of the 1/64" strips I had been using) and measured and cut a 1/16" width strip from the sheet.  Came out in a nice curl as I cut it with sharp scissors.

 

        

 

Similar to what was done on the main boom clew bar, I drilled holes using a #65 micro drill bit for the link bar, but won't put link in until rigging.  Glued the clew band in place.

 

Topping Lift Band -  Used more of the 1/128" thick brass sheet that I cut to form a band at the very end of this fore boom.  After fitting, soldered and secured on the fore boom and added eyebolt.

 

The clew band and topping lift band are not at the very end of the fore boom, as shown in the plans.  Noticed this after I was done and looked back at the plans.  Hoping this is not critical in the rigging stage.  Need to do better on the remaining booms/gaffs.  With that said, here's a closeup of the end with the four (4) bands close together, as well as a picture of the entire fore boom completed.

 

         

 

JUMBO JIB BOOM:

 

Traveler Band - Used more of the thinner 1/128" brass strip for this band at the fore end of this band.  Drilled two small holes in bottom side of band for a staple-type rod insert.

 

 

Sheet Band - Similar to what I have done on the two previous booms, with the 0.51mm brass rod looped at the bottom.

 

 

Clew Band & Topping Lift Band - Again, similar to the bands that have been created and fixed to other booms.

 

 

And a photo of the full Jumbo Jib Boom completed.  Pretty straight-forward.  

 

 

Three down, two more to go!  Some techniques and operations I know I have improved on, but many, many, many things I need to work better at achieving.  Appreciate the likes, comments and criticisms, as always.

 

 

[GGibson]

Another update... got another spar completed, so taking a break and getting this down in the build log.

 

FORE GAFF - This one was probably the easiest, or quickest, of the spars I've been working on.  As I have done with the others, I first worked on the end closest to the mast, which for this fore gaff meant working on the jaws that will wrap around the fore mast.  As I had done on the main boom, I used the Proxxon mill to flatten or shave the gaff on either side of the spar to give the jaws something flat to be secured to.  Then, after marking the hole locations for the jaw eyebolts, I used my Proxxon drill press to drill #65 bit holes in the jaw sides for the 0.81mm brass rods.  

 

 

Also drilled the necessary holes for the required eyebolts for the throat halliard linkage on the topside of the fore gaff and for the topsail sheet eyebolts on the underside.  Thanks to @John Ruy for his input and clarification on the plans and the needed eyebolts.  The first (left) picture is the topside, the second (right) picture is the underside with the additional eyebolt in the spar itself.  (There's one eyebolt in that underside picture that looks a bit turned, too.  Need to see if I can fix that!)

 

          

 

On the other end of the fore gaff, there are a few fittings needed.  Two peak halliard bands were shaped and secured in their appropriate locations by using the 1/64" x 1/16" brass strip.  Shaped them so they fit snuggly in their locations, removed them to drill the holes for the pins to be placed during rigging, and then glued them in place using CA glue.

 

At the end of the gaff, I shaped a small band using even thinner 1/128" thick brass strip.  On the top and bottom of this band, I drilled a small hole to accept eyebolts.  I had some smaller 2.07mm wide eyebolts that I used here rather than the thicker 2.78mm ones I have been using elsewhere.  Hopefully, these don't look too oversized for the very end of this smaller fore gaff.  I also drilled out a 1/32" hole in the side of this fore gaff just behind this band, as shown in the plans.

 

 

And, here's a picture of the full fore gaff, in all its glory. 

 

 

Going to go back and clean this up a bit, as I am with all these booms and gaffs, once this last one is completed.  With that said, I only have one more to work on... the main gaff.  See ya later...  As always, thanks for the likes, comments and criticisms.  All are appreciated.

Edited April 5 by GGibson

[GGibson]

Another update that I'll attempt to do very quickly... (especially since I didn't take many notes during the construction) <shrug>

 

MAIN GAFF - The final spar of the five!  This one was actually sorta fun to build for a few reasons.  First, it was fairly easy as it repeated several of the build processes that had been used on any of the previous four.  Secondly, I was able to utilize some of the special tools to finish it up and make it, in some cases, a better product.  First, worked on the gaff jaws and, like I had done on the fore gaff and main boom, used the Proxxon mill to shave down the two sides of the spar to give the jaws a flat surface to adhere to.  Drilled the holes for the brass rods, aligned the clapper, and glued everything together.  Enjoyed doing this part on all three of the spars.  A slightly different configuration on the eyebolt placement on this main gaff, so pay attention to those details.

 

        

 

For the stop chocks towards the center of the main gaff, I wanted to give the chocks a bit of an indentation or groove to securely sit in, so started making grooves with the Proxxon mill on the two sides.  The stop chocks were measured to be about 10mm long and I had a 1/32" thick piece of scrap wood that I shaped for the stop chocks.  After a bit of milling on both sides, I actually found that I had milled all the way through the dowel.  But, it worked out well, as I was then able to firmly insert each sides' stop chocks in the main gaff.  Secured them with glue and gave them a final sanding to best shape them to form. In the zoomed picture, the two chocks look uneven so may need to work on those a bit to more evenly shape them.  Used a #71 drill bit, as I recall, to place a hole for the bridles on both sides.

 

        

 

        

 

As we moved closer to the other end of the main gaff, five (5) sets of smaller stop chocks were placed on the underside of the main gaff.  Those were made from some 1/32" square stock, sanded down a bit and placed with just a toothpick drop of PVA glue.  Let those dry overnight before sanding a bit more to give them an angled appearance and then gave them a touch of cherry stain.  Drilled a hole using a #65 drill bit through the sides at the indicated location and soldered one more small band at the end using the 1/128" thick brass strip.  Again, I found a couple smaller eyelets than what I had previously been using and placed two at the top and bottom sides of the main gaff end.

 

 

So.... there are the five (5) completed spars.  Top to bottom - Main Boom, Main Gaff, Fore Gaff, Fore Boom, Jumbo Jib Boom.  All in all, it progressed pretty well.  Right at about two weeks' time frame from when I began sanding the five wooden dowels to their needed diameters until now.  It was fun and educational, but so glad to move on.

 

 

So, I guess now it's on to another set of challenges, trials, tribulations and victories.  Time to begin rigging, stropping blocks, tying lines, etc.  Need to sit down before jumping in head-first and review all of the available build logs before me to assess the challenges and develop a game plan.  There are some great rigging examples in that group, I know, so their work is extremely appreciative and inspiring.  With that said, I appreciate the likes, comments and criticisms of my work here, hoping that I add at least something to the Bluenose community for future builders.  Thanks! 

[John Ruy]

Greg, Very Nice progress. Great spars, a very important piece has been accomplished with great skill and patience. One more step closer to the finish line. Steady as she goes…
 

Good job. 👍 

Edited April 7 by John Ruy

[GGibson]

1 hour ago, John Ruy said:

Greg, Very Nice progress. Great spars, a very important piece has been accomplished with great skill and patience. One more step closer to the finish line. Steady as she goes…
 

Good job. 👍 

 

Thanks, John.  Appreciate the encouragement!  It's fellas like you whom I have learned so much from in this journey.  Thanks for letting me tag along on your own journey.  👍

[John Ruy]

1 hour ago, GGibson said:

 

Thanks, John.  Appreciate the encouragement!  It's fellas like you whom I have learned so much from in this journey.  Thanks for letting me tag along on your own journey.  👍

You are welcome Greg…. We all have those that inspire us and those we hope to inspire here on MSW. MSW is a great place to grow and thrive in this hobby. It’s a great community no matter the skill level, beginner to master. 😎
Cheers 🍻 

[allanyed]

Overall really nice model and your metal work is some of the best we have seen.  For the future, in the past couple years, thanks to builder/author Ed Tosti, for some parts I have found copper to be better suited than brass.  It solders very nicely and can be blackened instantaneously after being  fixed in place on the model with diluted liver of sulfur then rinsed without staining the wood.   

Allan

[GGibson]

On 4/7/2024 at 6:11 PM, GGibson said:

Time to begin rigging, stropping blocks, tying lines, etc.  Need to sit down before jumping in head-first and review all of the available build logs before me to assess the challenges and develop a game plan.  There are some great rigging examples in that group, I know, so their work is extremely appreciative and inspiring.

 

Well, that's pretty much what I've been doing for the past week.  Really nothing done on the ship itself, just trying to soak in what many previous Bluenose build log builders have done regarding their rigging, masting and moving forward.  Wow!  A lot to take in, much more than I remember on my prior builds, but... they have not been as detailed and complicated.  Guess that's what we get when we reach for higher ground, right?  A few more challenges than before.  Ok... 

 

While I am researching others and coming up with my own game plan, I thought I would prep all of the blocks that may be needed for the Bluenose and began staining them.  Strung them on some thin line and dipped them in stain.  First, a bath in some pre-stain, then in some Minwax Golden Oak stain, which is what I also used for the masts.  Seemed right.  Also, I am replacing as much as I can of the kit-provided blocks with those that I got from Syren Ship Model Company, which I had used in my Ballahoo build and liked their quality.

 

      

 

Also, in the "What Did You Receive Today" category, after reading the pros and cons of sail construction, I ordered some Silkspan tissue for this Bluenose.  Found what seemed like a reputable vendor in Sig Manufacturing (out of Des Plaines, IL) and ordered two types of silkspan tissue, what they call a LIGHT version and a MEDIUM version, so I can determine which will be best for the sails when I get to them shortly.

 

 

And kudos to Sig's customer service!  I ordered these on Wednesday and received them today.  Two thumbs up!  I've still been a bit on the fence about whether I was going to do full sails or furled, but think I have convinced myself to do the full sails.  Could still convince myself to change, but... <shrug>  Either way, these silkspan sheets should look better than the kit-supplied cotton sail cloth... I HOPE! 

Edited April 14 by GGibson

[wmherbert]

As one who likes sails on these schooners I think you will like the silk span. I used the medium and followed tom Laurie's videos. It was a little tricky figuring out how to get rid of the fold creases before you start.  I've done about 5 models with sails so far and have gotten a little better on each. And did my first furled sails on my current build .

      My advice is to attach as much of the sails to the masts and spars off the model as possible and to double check the given sail patterns from the kit against your actual model.

[allanyed]

On 4/13/2024 at 9:38 PM, GGibson said:

blocks with those that I got from Syren Ship Model Company, which I had used in my Ballahoo build and liked their quality.

Hi Gregg,

I love the blocks from Syren.  Hard to tell from the photos, are you using the internally stropped blocks that would be on Bluenose?  They take a little doing to assemble but they enhance the model a lot as the blocks are prominent and very realistic.

 

Regarding the silk span sails, there is a little booklet on making sails by David Antscherl at Sea Watch books for $5 as well as the Tom Laurie video  mentioned by wmherbert that shows similar techniques.  https://seawatchbooks.com/products/swan-iv-sail-making-supplement-from-the-revised-and-expanded-edition-by-david-antscherl

Allan

 

 

[GGibson]

13 hours ago, allanyed said:

Hi Gregg,

I love the blocks from Syren.  Hard to tell from the photos, are you using the internally stropped blocks that would be on Bluenose?  They take a little doing to assemble but they enhance the model a lot as the blocks are prominent and very realistic.

 

Regarding the silk span sails, there is a little booklet on making sails by David Antscherl at Sea Watch books for $5 as well as the Tom Laurie video  mentioned by wmherbert that shows similar techniques.  https://seawatchbooks.com/products/swan-iv-sail-making-supplement-from-the-revised-and-expanded-edition-by-david-antscherl

Allan

 

 

 

Thanks for the reminder, Allan, about the internally stropped blocks!  I ordered some from Syren a while back... just have to remember where I put them (in a place where I'd remember where they were when I got to this point).... crap... 🤷‍♀️🤣  The search begins!!!  And, yes, I do recall that they were probably going to be a bit challenging to assemble properly.

 

Yes, I have seen Tom Laurie's YouTube video, and I saved it to Favorites so I don't lose it like I've apparently done with some blocks.... and regarding David Antscherl's booklet...

 

 

...I purchased it from SeaWatchBooks, and it's in my binder! 👍🏆

[Der Alte Rentner]

Greg,

How are you formatting your photos in these posts?  Or asked another way, how are you getting photos to appear side by side?  

Thanks

Peter

[GGibson]

2 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

Greg,

How are you formatting your photos in these posts?  Or asked another way, how are you getting photos to appear side by side?  

Thanks

Peter

Hi Peter!  I am not a tech person by any means, so if my explanation is too basic or is confusing, I apologize in advance, but I will go through my entire process of posting pictures.  Perhaps the shortest answer to your question, though, regarding photos appearing side-by-side is to format them or crop them small enough that they go side-by-side by themselves.

 

Now a longer explanation...  Again, there may be an easier or more efficient way of handling this technology, but this is what I do.  I am taking pictures on my iPhone, then emailing them to myself so I can download them and save them to a file folder on my laptop.  Once I have them in a laptop folder, I am opening a picture using the default Photos program on my Windows 11 Pro OS laptop.

 

        

 

I am then formatting each picture.  I first rotate the picture a full circle 360 degrees (first screenshot on the left).  For some reason, if I don't tell it this is exactly how I want it rotated, the laptop will decide for itself what direction it wants to post and you end up having to tilt your head sideways to view.  Doing this full-circle rotation seems to fix that issue.

 

Then, I click the Edit Image button just to the left of the Rotate button and crop the image, taking out unnecessary background items and just focusing, if you will, on the particular subject matter for the picture.  As I said early on, as well, cropping these images as small as you can will also assist you in getting them to post side-by-side.

 

So then, when I am posting these pictures to a build log entry, as I have done here, I click the first picture in the "Uploaded Images" section.  Then, I will hit the space bar a few times before clicking the 2nd picture, which allows for some "white space" between pictures.  As I said above, if the pictures are formatted/cropped small enough, they will then appear next to one another.

 

Hope my explanation helps, but didn't bore you!  Enjoying watching your progress on your Constitution!  The Model Shipways Constitution box is up on my "to-do" shelf for.... SOMEDAY! 🤷‍♀️😄

Edited April 22 by GGibson

[Der Alte Rentner]

1 hour ago, GGibson said:

if the pictures are formatted/cropped small enough, they will then appear next to one another.

Aha!  That is the just nugget I was prospecting for.

I'm fairly technologically apt, using photoshop and word to produce my own pdf version of the build log.  You'll see what that looked like in my earliest posts.  Because I wasn't seeing the resolution I desired posting pdf log pages, I switched to using the site's photo upload features.  I generally prefer high resolution photographs - so I can zoom in for more detail.  Hence I haven't really needed to post pairs of photos side by side, but thought about doing so today.   

 

Thanks for sharing Gregg!

 

and, the Blue Nose may be my next build, if I ever finish Conny!  😉

Edited April 22 by Der Alte Rentner

[GGibson]

Well, I have done a little bit more, so thought I would toss in an update.  Been struggling a little with how to approach all of the rigging work.  But, starting to do some rigging on a few of the spars that, no matter which way I decide to go with the sails, etc., I will need to rig anyways, so... here we go.  Not much of a play-by-play on these spars coming off of the main mast.  But definitely props to several of the Bluenose modelers who have come before me and shown a lot of their processes and techniques well enough for me to follow much of their guidance.  Props especially to @genericDave, @Ed Ku20 and @John Ruy, whom I have either relied heavily on researching their completed build logs, or John's responses to queries on his ongoing (and almost completed) Bluenose build.

 

With that all said, a few pictures (with little comment) I took during some of the pre-rigging for the main mast spars...

 

Trying to remember to do some of the stropping with brass wire vs. thread.

And yes, need to use the Syren internally-stropped blocks on some of the 1/4" singles and doubles.  So may re-do some of these after-the-fact.

 

As I am completing different portions of the pre-rigging, I am wrapping them as best I can and setting aside.

This rigging will be for the main boom's crutch tackle.

 

A closeup of the end of the main boom and topping lift rigging.

 

The completed rigging on the main boom (with all of the rigging banded and secured until it's placed on ship).

 

Top part of the lower main mast, with the blocks for the main peak halliard and the pendant rope for the topping lift.

 

     

 

Rigging the main gaff bridle assembly.

 

All of the rigging lines associated with the main mast.

 

Well, as far as I can tell (so far), this may be it for the main mast pre-rigging process.  Now it's pretty much a "rinse-and-repeat" routine for the fore mast rigging with a couple of exceptions.  Then, it appears the shrouds are after that, which means getting those masts firmly secured on deck.

 

Let's see how this progresses! 

[John Ruy]

9 hours ago, GGibson said:

Well, as far as I can tell (so far), this may be it for the main mast pre-rigging process.  Now it's pretty much a "rinse-and-repeat" routine for the fore mast rigging with a couple of exceptions.  Then, it appears the shrouds are after that, which means getting those masts firmly secured on deck.

Greg, Nice Prep… 👍. What rope are you using? It looks good.
 

I didn’t like the kit supplied Manila rigging, although the Black was good for the standing rigging. I have been using Amati rope I had on my bench, for the running rigging. 

 

John