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Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper


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The treenails look outstanding. You must have the patience of a glacier to go through all of those without losing your mind.

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Thanks for the nice comments and for the 22 "likes"!

 

I should be posting pictures of the latest work within the next few days.

 

Ed

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I have been given a kit in original box of "Young America" by Model Shipways. Everything seems to be in the kit. I contacted MS and was told the kit is at least 30 years old.  The instructions are only 8 pages, leaving a lot to the imagination for this experienced but still novice builder. There are the typical drawing sheets included. The solid hull to be finished apears to be a coarse grained wood, possibly red pine. Are there any better instructions and/or a decent set of photos during construction that I can use in this build?

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ricskinner,

 

I was not aware there were any kits for this ship and am not familiar with the kit you describe.  I'm afraid I cannot offer anything in the way of further information for building this kit.  There are an excellent set of drawings by William Crothers available from Loyalhana Shipyard at a scale of 1:96 if you are looking for more information about the ship itself.  There is also Crothers book, The American-Built Clipper Ship.

 

Ed

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Ed, Thanks for reply. I've seen several Model Shipways kits of "Young America" on eBay from about $50-75. The kit is apparently from the 1950s. I'm sure it will be a challenge after I finish the HMS Sultana (solid hull) and Benjamin W. Latham Grand Banks fishing schooner (POB). Have built a New York Pilot Boat (solid hull), Boston whaleboat (solid hull) and a scratch-built J/22 sail boat (1:176 scale). Where can I find your FB log of Young America?

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Sorry, ric.  I don't understand your last question.  You are on the only Young America log I have.

 

Ed

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Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 49 – Hull cleanup, Port side ceiling

 

Before moving to the interior of the port side, I wanted to remove the protruding bilge ceiling bolts on the starboard side of the hull.  There will be many more of these to be added but the installed wires are a hazard.  The first picture shows the epoxied through-bolts being clipped off.

 

post-570-0-26153900-1394716584_thumb.jpg

 

The remaining bolt stubs and epoxy were then filed off as shown below.  A fine cut file works best for this because it doesn’t “grab” on the wire.

 

post-570-0-10357800-1394716585_thumb.jpg

 

The next picture shows the lower hull sanded after removal of the bolt heads.

 

post-570-0-69274700-1394716585_thumb.jpg

 

The next picture is a close up showing how the iron strapping will appear between the frames.  Most of the strapping on the inside will be covered with planking.

 

post-570-0-44722700-1394716586_thumb.jpg

 

The copper wire bolts are bright in this picture and will be blackened later, just before applying finish to the hull.

 

The next picture shows the start of work on the port side with the installation of the first strip of bilge ceiling near midship.

 

post-570-0-05956800-1394716587_thumb.jpg

 

This first strip is installed just below the heads of the first futtocks.  This sets the line of the bilge ceiling that the other strakes will follow.  There are four more thick strakes below this.  Above it, thick members extend up to the lower deck clamp as on the starboard side.  It may seem odd to install this before the strapping, but I did it for two reasons.  First, I wanted a very secure joint with the frames, especially on this side where a number of frames will be removed above this joint and below the middle deck clamp – to provide view ports into the hull.  Secondly, the pins shown in this picture were used to correct any irregular spacing between the frames.  This had to be done before strapping.  After gluing and before removing the clamps, most of these pins were replaced by copper bolts.

 

The next picture shows the first section of lower deck clamp being installed.

 

post-570-0-66885400-1394716587_thumb.jpg

 

In this picture and the one that follows, the frames marked “X” will be cut out between the lower futtock heads and the middle deck clamp to provide the view ports.

 

The next picture shows the strapping covering all but the forward view port area.  There will be three of these view ports, one at each mast.

 

post-570-0-31804200-1394716588_thumb.jpg

 

Sections of the deck clamps have also been added.  The lower deck clamp is not glued or bolted to the “X” frames, but the frames are securely bolted to the clamps above.  Note from the “X’s” that there are three groups of three frames to be cut out. This will be done much later when the structure has been well reinforced by additional members.

 

The last picture shows the strake of bilge ceiling extended forward along the lower futtock heads to intersect with the lower deck clamp.

 

post-570-0-95766300-1394716588_thumb.jpg

 

All of these members are being epoxy bolted through the frames as they are installed to provide the primary strength to the joints with the frames.  Glue alone is not enough, especially where there is strapping.

 

 

Ed

Edited by EdT
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Thank you both for these comments - and thank you everyone for the "likes." 

 

I hope the explanations in the last part were not too confusing.  Getting all the various parts sorted out around the view ports has left me a bit confused at times.  It will be clearer as we proceed - I hope.

 

I can just discern the end of the tunnel in the strapping work - I'm looking forward to that milestone.

 

Ed

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Hello Ed!

 

I thought that Part-48 Startboard Ceiling Treenailing and Bolting was going to be all... I mean no "strapping" on the portside but just the deck clamps but No! Sure It is a milestone of work! Always a pleasure to read your posts.

 

Best wishes and happy weekend ahead!

 

 

Daniel.

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Hi Ed,

Its really a pleasure to follow along. I have your first book but want to continue building my skills on my kit before attempting it.

I have a question about "washing glue", probably a silly one. How far into the glue drying cycle can you wash it off?

Thanks,

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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Hi Ed,

Its really a pleasure to follow along. I have your first book but want to continue building my skills on my kit before attempting it.

I have a question about "washing glue", probably a silly one. How far into the glue drying cycle should you wash it off?

Thanks,

Richard

Edited by rtropp

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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Thank you, Daniel and Richard.

 

Richard, the sooner the better.  I use Titebond II PVA glue.  I usually do it right after clamping or pinning and most of it washes off easily at that point.  You can wait longer but then you need to brush harder to get it off.  Still, glue darkened with pigmnet sometimes leaves a sort of stain that can usually be removed with light sanding.  I use clean water with a stiff small bristle brush or a toothpick or cotton swabs.  Excess water can be tamped with a paper towel.  Wetting the wood has another benefit.  It raises the grain so when sanded the finish is smoother and it you use water-based finishes, no further grain will be raised by them.  This helps when using water stains, dies, inks, or thinned acrylic paints.

 

Ed

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Hi Ed,

I have discovered your build-log a couple of weeks before; I jumped in reading from page 10 or there about. Waiting to respond is due to me being absolutely flabbergasted. Your modelling and your covering it in the build-log leaves me speachless.

Since I am a volontary crew member in The International Maritime Museum in Hamburg I like to make you the compliment that our museum would be more than proud to host a model like yours.

Today I started my in-deapth reading at page 24. Unfortunately all pictures on this and a couple of the following pages do not show. I do hope that the server problems our administrators have announced did not corrupt your log. I would be more than unhappy.

Please keep up your wonderful work und your amazing coverage in word and pictures. I am more then eager to wait for your planking elaborations.

Edited by PeterK

Greetings from Hamburg and the river Elbe

 

Peter

 

building: 3-masted schooner HEINRICH from 1907 (on hold)

on the drawing board: 3-masted top-sail schooner M.A.James

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Thank you, Peter. I wll check to see if hereis a problem with he pictures.

 

Ed

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Ed,

Even prior to page 24 some pictures show, some do not. Just the red X and a file name like the link has been lost.

I was logged in so that is not the problem.

 

Walt Biles

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Hello, everyone.  I have replaced all of the lost images on pages 21 to 25 - Parts 29 to 38.

 

Ed

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Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 50 – Port side ceiling continued

 

In the first picture some of the 8” thick bilge ceiling members between the forward and midship view ports have been installed and one of the lower members is being glued into place.

 

post-570-0-80870600-1395060527_thumb.jpg

 

The next picture shows this area a bit later, unobscured by clamping.

 

post-570-0-81097100-1395060528_thumb.jpg

 

Strapping installation has been proceeding in parallel and keeping ahead of the ceiling members and deck clamps.  The next picture shows the extent of the midship view port – left free of strapping.  The members marked “X” will be removed later up to the middle deck clamp.

 

post-570-0-01811900-1395060532_thumb.jpg

 

In addition to exposing the inside of the lower hull, the view ports will also show the cross sections of the ceiling and other inboard planking and structural members.  A part of the ceiling cross section can be seen below.

 

post-570-0-83580100-1395060532_thumb.jpg

 

Below is another view of the port side inboard area aft of midship.

 

post-570-0-45640800-1395060533_thumb.jpg

 

Bolting of the bilge ceiling and deck clamps is keeping pace with the other work.  The next picture shows the area between the view ports drilled and partially bolted.

 

post-570-0-01918900-1395060534_thumb.jpg

 

The bilge ceiling ends are easier to fit after the lower deck clamp is in place.  The next picture shows the aftermost section of the lower deck clamp being installed.

 

post-570-0-78687300-1395060534_thumb.jpg

 

The strapping is nearing completion in this picture.  The next picture shows most of the strapping work completed.  A few lower pieces near midship have not yet been installed.

 

post-570-0-41763800-1395060535_thumb.jpg

 

The outline of the aft view port can be seen in this picture.

 

 

Ed

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Ed your clean and clear pictures are very inspiring as well as educational keeping everything in line and placed around those areas to be removed must keep your mind on its toes. Beautiful workmanship as always.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Hi, Ed,

I tip my hat to your supreme craftsmanship; for me a gleaming goal I will always strive to reach, but never will come near.

Another question if you have the time to answer:

Do I interpret your pictures correctly that your one frame layer starts with the floor; the other layer with two first futtocks?

Is it "normal" floor or is it short arm and long arm floors alternatively?

Your in depth coverage of the building of an extreme clipper in the middle of the 19th century had me dig into my schooner plans. And out came the 3-masted schooner James Miller, build in 1854. I am trying to obtain information about the building of these ships in a seperate post.

Greetings from Hamburg and the river Elbe

 

Peter

 

building: 3-masted schooner HEINRICH from 1907 (on hold)

on the drawing board: 3-masted top-sail schooner M.A.James

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So much eye-candy Ed, fantastic!

Happy modelling!

Håkan

__________________________________________

 

Current build: Atlantica by Wintergreen

Previous builds

Kågen by Wintergreen

Regina by Wintergreen

Sea of Galilee boat, first century, sort of...

Billing Boats Wasa

Gallery:

Kågen (Cog, kaeg) by Wintergreen - 1:30Billing Boats Regina - 1:30Billing Boats Dana

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Thanks, everyone.

 

Micheal, getting it right around those future view ports has forced me to keep on my toes - so as not to put glue, bolts, wood members or strapping where they aren't wanted.  I had to decide exactly the extent of these openings, how they would be reinforced, etc.  before starting any work.   Even at that there were some moments of confusion, especially with the alignment of the strapping..

 

Peter, I used "normal" floors on the forward frame of each pair, centered on the keel, with lower futtocks of the aft frames butting at the centerline.  I did have to make some assumptions in laying out the lines of the floor and futtock heads.  I set these using diagonals on the body plan.  Good luck with your quest for data on the schooner.

 

Ed

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Ed, I'm continuing to learn as you go - this is a fantastic tutorial.

 

I'm assuming you also used diagonals to set the position of the deck clamps - is this correct?

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

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Frank,

 

The heights of the deck clamps (top) are set on lines that follow the line of the deck at the side, minus the depth of the deck beams.  The lines of the deck are usually drawn at the underside of the deck plank (top of beam).  The lines at the side are lower than the centerline of the deck by the amount of round-up of the deck beams. 

 

Deck lines are usually shown as long arcs on the sheer plan, but  the YA drawings were made from the original table of offsets that did not include deck heights.  I used a secondary source for the heights of these lines along the length of the hull.  They do not correspond to the body plan body plan diagonals that I mentioned.

 

Ed

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Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 51 – Port side ceiling continued

 

It has been about a week since the last post.  Seems longer.  Work has been progressing, but most of it is similar to work covered in earlier posts, so there has not been much of interest to add.  The first picture shows the bilge ceiling being installed under the lower deck clamp aft on the port side.

 

post-570-0-00870900-1395668731_thumb.jpg

 

At this stage all of the iron strapping is in place on both sides, so now it’s a matter of keeping it undamaged until it is covered by the various internal planking and clamps.  The next picture shows some of the lower strakes of the thick bilge ceiling being installed.

 

post-570-0-76071200-1395668731_thumb.jpg

 

A fair amount of clamping is required to pull these 8” x 8” timbers into place and hold them there while the glue dries.  The deck clamps have been extended concurrently with work on the ceiling.  This can be seen in the next picture, which shows the current state of the model.

 

post-570-0-60981000-1395668732_thumb.jpg

 

Below is another view showing the open areas in the bilge ceiling.  Later, nine frames in each of these sections and an aft section will be removed up to the height of the middle deck clamps.

 

post-570-0-24422100-1395668733_thumb.jpg

 

The entire bilge ceiling is complete in this picture.  The thinner floor ceiling planking has not yet begun on the port side.  The next picture shows a closer view of the central view port area.

 

post-570-0-85277800-1395668733_thumb.jpg

 

All of the bilge ceiling has been leveled out and given a preliminary sanding to allow the remaining iron (copper wire)  bolts to be installed.  All of the bolts have been installed in the completed deck clamps.

 

The last picture shows the starboard lower hull. 

 

post-570-0-51268300-1395668734_thumb.jpg

 

In this picture the protruding bolts installed thus far have been filed and sanded off.  There are many more to install as the inside work continues.  The bolts are relatively invisible at this stage but will be much more prominent when etched black. 

 

The next step is to plank the floor area on the port side.

 

Ed

 

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