HM Cutter Speedy 1828 by oakheart - from plans drawn by Bill Shoulders in 1972

oakheart · January 5

3 minutes ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

This gives a fairly clear example:

Thanks Craig @iMustBeCrazy that as you say gives a clear example, what a fantastic resource RMG is.

so now I have a couple of names, channel is the block of wood, chainplate is the metal strip. Is that correct?

Now I am thinking I will make mine like this, with a planted strip on the outside.

Tim

iMustBeCrazy · January 5

3 minutes ago, oakheart said:

channel is the block of wood, chainplate is the metal strip. Is that correct?

Lets just say the chainplate is metal, it can be a flat bar, a few flat bars, a chain, a really long chain link or a combination.

oakheart · January 5

here is yet another revision of the chains mockup

chainsrevised3.jpg.5f9399a49f5c91742717558e868f6f44.jpg

I have tried to incorporate the advice you have all given.

Tim

iMustBeCrazy · January 5

Found one.

ZAZ6367Dart1810_2.jpg.998fcb7233863e1ca62e5109195da814.jpg

And the channel should follow the deck and or wale. That is, lower forward.

Edited January 5 by iMustBeCrazy

druxey · January 5

Spacing looks realistic now, Tim! But observe the line of the channel. It should follow that of the outside planking.

mtaylor · January 6

Tim,

If you haven't this book, it's worth consiidering. There are some errors but it' does provide a good overview. zu Mondeld's Historic Ship Models. Online sources are pretty varied as to content and explanations but zu Mondfeld will get you started.

oakheart · January 6

11 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

And the channel should follow the deck and or wale. That is, lower forward

Another thing I was not really aware of.

oakheart · January 6

8 hours ago, mtaylor said:

zu Mondeld's Historic Ship Models.

Thanks Mark @mtaylor, I happen to have purchased a copy from the famous Booths bookshop in Hay-on-Wye last summer. I often go there as it's only 40 mins down the road. I paid £5 which was a bargain looking at the prices online.

Now I have some non fiction bedtime reading.

Tim

oakheart · January 6

10 hours ago, druxey said:

Spacing looks realistic now

Thanks @druxey and I will make sure to follow the line of planking.

Tim

oakheart · January 7

Managed to get some good work done over the last two days.

working from Bills booklet

waterway.jpg.82bf28680657b6684d29db6131d6dbd9.jpg

Bulwarks lined, spirketting in place on both sides

now I need to cut away the gun ports, line them and add the waterway fillet

Tim

iMustBeCrazy · January 7

Probably too late but the sides of the ports are perpendicular to the keel and the top and bottom are parallel to the deck.

oakheart · January 8

9 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

the sides of the ports are perpendicular to the keel and the top and bottom are parallel to the deck.

Hi Craig @iMustBeCrazy

Not sure which you mean here?

I have got it wrong or they are correct?

I did make them as per the drawings ( yes I know they are in the wrong place 😞 ) and they are trapezoid in shape.

It could be the angle of the photo. You can see it better in the photo in post #123

On a different topic

Seeing it coming together I do think that the all pale wood is a bit too bland and needs some variation, so I need to do staining. as was discussed earlier.

Tim

Edited January 8 by oakheart

iMustBeCrazy · January 8

53 minutes ago, oakheart said:

I have got it wrong or they are correct?

Just one of those learning things. With photos of curved surfaces it isn't easy to tell so it was just a caution. basically, the sill is the same distance above and parallel to the deck, the head is the same and the jams (sides) are perpendicular to the keel. This does often give trapezoidal ports.

1 hour ago, oakheart said:

Seeing it coming together I do think that the all pale wood is a bit too bland and needs some variation, so I need to do staining. as was discussed earlier.

Do some tests and on the model, start lighter. You can darken it with another coat if needed.

oakheart · January 8

1 minute ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

Just one of those learning things.

I have still got plenty of those to go..................

Your drawing show it really well, I was not clear before, but looking at the drawing it I am now. thanks.

iMustBeCrazy · January 8

Just now, oakheart said:

but looking at the drawing

a thousand words, I wonder who first said that.

oakheart · January 8

4 minutes ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

start lighter. You can darken it with another coat if needed

Thank Craig @iMustBeCrazy That's good advice, I will need to mask the deck as I am happy with that.

Will test on scraps first.

Tim

oakheart · January 8

Mixed up some NotWOP 50% varnish, 50% stain, it gave a nice milk like liquid.

tested it some some scraps, seems to work.....................

WOPstain.jpg.a0e87355691ae2d87ad43b2c366bb04b.jpg

Masked up the hull, then I bit the bullet, it was a bit of a pucker few minutes.

Here is a profile view of it drying, I guess it will change tone as it dries but I am pretty pleased with the result.

View of the stem end

Now I'm going to sit down and have a cup of tea, or maybe something stronger 🙂

Tim

Mirabell61 · January 8

beautiful build Tim

Nils

Edited January 8 by Mirabell61

oakheart · January 8

16 minutes ago, Mirabell61 said:

beautiful build Tim

Thank you so much. It is difficult sometimes to keep up the enthusiasm but a few encouraging words help a lot.

oakheart · January 8

@Mirabell61 I just had a quick look at your Pegasus build, it's fantastic, that is the kind build I aspire too.

I would love to do a cutaway ship like yours, but I feel I still have a lot to learn.

Tim

oakheart · January 8

The hull is now dry, so here it is unmasked

I think that the wale needs to be a lot darker than it is.

The fashion piece ( when fitted ) should be the same tone as the wale

thanks everyone for the likes

Tim

Mirabell61 · January 8

Thanks Tim,

I wish you a lucky hand for your next cutaway ship project

In my hobby office there is the Pegasus on a shelf and my grandchildren love to look into the model which is in head hight in a glass-case (dust protection)

Nils

druxey · January 8

There may be a terminology issue: the fashion piece is part of the framing at the stern, under the planking. Perhaps you meant the quarter piece. That attaches aft over the planking above the wale.

oakheart · January 8

Looking closely at the planking I can see that the water based WOP ( NotWOP ) has raised the grain but only where I had not sanded down enough.

The finish had looked really good but scratches left by coarser grits are now showing as raised lines.

Does real WOP do this as well?

Tim

oakheart · January 8

35 minutes ago, druxey said:

There may be a terminology issue

Thanks @druxey I think you are right there does seem to be different usages of the term 'fashion piece', I am still learning so just use what I see used here on MSW.

Chuck Passaro used the term on his speedwell build, in that instance it was a carved piece, I just assumed it would also apply to a simple uncarved piece applied in the same place.

As I said before, there is so much to learn.

Tim

Edited January 8 by oakheart