Jump to content

Wales, diminishing thickness at the bow


Recommended Posts

This subject has been discussed lately in several build logs as this feature appears to be missing in many builds, kit and scratch both.   One of our astute members suggested posting this in this forum as well as the logs where this was discussed.

 

What precipitated this discussion for me many years ago had to do with the fact that unless the wales and thickstuff was thinned at the bow it could not seat normally in the rabbet.  While the shape of the rabbet is dynamic it is not stepped to allow for different thickness plank ends so the thick planks such as the wales and the few strakes of thick stuff above and below the wales have to diminish.   There are photos of contemporary models where this can be seen, but I have never found mention of this in any books that I can remember or, in the case of English ships, the Establishments or the scantlings in The Shipbuilder's Repository or The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture by David Steel.  The lower wale of a 50 gun ship built to the Establishments of 1719 through 1750 was 5.5" thick.  The strake above and below was 4" thick.  The plank below the thickstuff was 3" thick.  Wales and thickstuff should taper to 3" thick at the rabbet.   

 

If anyone has any contemporary based information on this subject, that would be great to see.  Photo below is the Royal William (100) 1719 showing the wale being the same thickness as the thickstuff and plank of the bottom at the rabbet.  The thinning seems to begin at about the area of the cant frames.  Based on the 1719 Establishment her lower wale would have been 10" thick, the strake  above 8" thick and the seven strakes below the wales starting at 8" thick and ending to match the plank of the bottom which was 4" thick.  This was a diminished thickness of 6 inches for the wale.  

Allan

 

Royalwilliam.thumb.jpg.2c017621e836eceff9b9e0614f015cd3.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ouch! as far as accomplishing this.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Jaager said:

Ouch! as far as accomplishing this.

Hi Dean

 

Do you mean finding the information or performing the task? 😀  Performing the task is pretty simple.  I usually just thin the last 1/4" or so  to the proper thickness so it will seat in the rabbet and leave some room to work once glued and treenailed in place.  Once all the planking is done I have room to  file and sand the heavier strakes as needed.

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my head,  I am seeing the wales as being Holly dyed black.  All sides.  So, I would have to plane the back to get the taper. 

Reducing the outside would be a routine process, but having to soak in more dye and keep it on just the wale.

I am over seeing aqueous dyes as having any advantage at model scale, so by using alcohol as the solvent - there is no swelling of the grain.  But the lower viscosity(?) of alcohol - more lateral spread - makes keeping just where it is wanted is more of a challenge.

 

I do have a backup plan using steel wool dissolved in vinegar on tannic acid treated wood to get the black - 

from a traditional Tarheel furniture maker on PBS.

 

It looks like knowing about the taper is another on of those art of the process things learned on the job.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I typically dye the wales with black ink ahead of time but invariably have to touch up, including where the wales are thinned at the bow.  I have used holly for decks but not on the hull so this act differently.  I typically use Castello with no issues.  For touching up, first step is to seal the strakes above the wale and black strake, and the thick stuff below the wale with whatever finish I will be using later.  This is usually an egg shell finish clear coat. Then a little tape over that once the clear coat is dry and fresh ink where it needs to go.  I little fuss, but no muss.  

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All of us Winchelsea builders are familiar with this and following Chuck’s instructions have thinned the wales at the bow.  In fact I also did it, for the first time on my 11th model, Cheerful.  It’s simple enough to do and does in fact add value to the appearance of the model. 

Edited by glbarlow

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea
Completed Builds: HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, glbarlow said:

All of us Winchelsea builders are familiar with this and following Chuck’s instructions have thinned the wales at the bow

Hi Glenn,

You and the Winnie builders are among a lucky (and well informed) group.😀

I still wish someone could find a written description, especially if based on contemporary information describing this feature.  It is an obvious feature  on contemporary models, but it would be great to see this described in old documents.

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, glbarlow said:

All of us Winchelsea builders are familiar with this and following Chuck’s instructions have thinned the wales at the bow.  In fact I also did it, for the first time on my 11th model, Cheerful.  It’s simple enough to do and doe in fact add value to the appearance of the model. 

I also did this for my alert, though I wouldn't really recommend the way I did it (I stopped the first layer of the wales a bit short of the stem which allowed the second layer to bend into the space). I probably would have been better off just sanding it down. It is one of those small things which does add I think to the model.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunately the standard works such as Steel's Naval Architecture or the Shipbuilders' Repository are silent on this detail. However, I think one can be confident from model evidence as well as the practical issue of easing the process of bending heavy timber. 

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The enlargement below might help as well.   Thanks for posting this Martes!!  It is very clear that the thickness is diminishing, and seems to be slightly thicker than the surrounding strakes at the rabbet.   That being the case, how does it sit in the rabbet?  Must it be carved to sit in the rabbet with a little sticking out or is the rabbet chiseled to accept the full thickness of the end of the wale?   I realize at our scales this will be barely, if at all, noticeable.    

 

Allan

Portuguesedrawing.thumb.png.e7015bc66449ea25c159c508678a27bf.png

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

 That being the case, how does it sit in the rabbet?  Must it be carved to sit in the rabbet with a little sticking out or is the rabbet chiseled to accept the full thickness of the end of the wale?

I suppose the first case, "carved to sit in the rabbet with a little sticking out".

 

image.png.5c556176111e363712d4c9f2a5ead2df.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello all,

 

Allen directed me to this link on my build log of the HMS Bellona- Corel 1:100 scale and i hope to get some insight on the tapering of the wales. I have labeled the plank thikness on the plans for the second layer of planks and i am not understanding the plank directly under the gun ports. It is showing the thickness of that plank being 0.6mm. I labeled the delta of the corresponding plank thicknesses and I just can't seem to make sense of it. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. 

 

Thanks 

Nearshore 

20230722_085127.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Regardless of what the kit plans call for, the goal is for the wales to fit into the rabbet at the bow.

 

waleson3.jpg

Quote

And one other thing I would like to mention.  The wales and black strake would fit into the rabbet at the stem.  It wouldnt stand proud as is shown on most kits and models these days.  Its another typical oversight.  To fix this, I simply reduced their thickness gradually up to the rabbet so it looks like it fits into the rabbet.  I used a sharp chisel and some fine sandpaper.  

This post from Chuck's Winchelsea illustrates it nicely.

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Nearshore said:

I labeled the delta of the corresponding plank thicknesses and I just can't seem to make sense of it. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. 

Go to the RMG site.

enter ZAZ1357

You will see that your ? is the top of the main wale.

The red lines are internal structures - if 3 red lines are tracking close together  they are bottom of deck at side - bottom of deck at midline - top of deck at midline - often there are cross sections of beams.

 

When I loft frames, I only locate the bottom of the wales and other raised decorative strakes.  It would not matter where I drew the top.  The width of the wales that I apply will determine the top.  Drawing it is wishful thinking.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Nearshore said:

i am not understanding the plank directly under the gun ports. It is showing the thickness of that plank being 0.6mm.

Based on the scantlings for a 74 in both the Shipbuilder's Repository 1788 and Steel's The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture 1805 the lower wale is made up of four strakes of planking.  They should be about 10 to 12" wide (0.1" at your scale of 1:100) which makes it about 40 to 48 inches wide in total.  These were likely made up of anchor stock planking, not straight pieces, but that is for another day.  The SR,  gives a thickness of 8.5" and the EPNA gives a thickness of 8".   At your scale of 1:100 the total width is thus just under 1/2" wide (10-12mm) and 0.08-0.085" thick (2mm) .  The planking below are gradually thinner, reducing over several strakes to 4", or 0.04" thick (1mm).  The strake above the main wale is the black strake and is about 6.5 to 7" thick.  The strake above the black strake is 5"thick.  Both are 12" broad.  I hope this makes some sense.   Hopefully the following sketch will help a little

 

Allan

TalaveracrosssectionAAA.thumb.jpg.c8016b7a0bec15d99125479e8bf0c351.jpg

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Jaager said:

Go to the RMG site.

enter ZAZ1357

Dean points out a great drawing as Dragon is a sister to Bellona. This drawing can also be found in very high resolution in the WikiCommons site.  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich  It is 127.6 mb so does not attach here.   

Allan

 

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It should not be, however, taken as a universal rule.

The plans for the Dutch Utrecht, for example, definitely show the wales to explicitly protrude over the planking at the rabbet:

 

https://www.nationaalarchief.nl/onderzoeken/archief/4.MST/invnr/57/file/NL-HaNA_4.MST_57_deelopname02?eadID=4.MST&unitID=57&query=

image.png.bf3a264dddff44e794215d61ff70bc29.png image.png.d7af560150b7bd90a4d4a044d48ef11f.png

 

https://www.nationaalarchief.nl/onderzoeken/archief/4.MST/invnr/58/file/NL-HaNA_4.MST_58?eadID=4.MST&unitID=58&query=

 

image.png.774e79e73c2af42bc0c50b792bec8719.png

Edited by Martes
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the other hand, on the Danish ships, at least later ones, where the wales were almost indistinguishable from the rest of the planking (the planking became gradually thicker towards the wale) the line of the wales at the rabbet was uninterrupted, with, apparently, all planks brought to uniform thickness on the ends:

 

image.thumb.png.8127044745d1e818ef57dd87270d9d4f.png image.thumb.png.bf388f172f6eb666e0b2b461711f53b0.png

 

So it really depended on the construction school and period.

Edited by Martes
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Martes said:

It should not be, however, taken as a universal rule.

Hi Martes,

I totally agree with you.  It seems that very little in ship building in those days, and perhaps more modern times as well,  should be taken as universal, especially across national borders.  My fault for not mentioning I was originally only referring to English ship build logs where the overly thick wale is a predominant feature.  

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the above photo there appear to be no wales at all.  Another photo is below looking similar to the photo you posted Martes.   A planking expansion ZAZ2156 that RMG Collections has for Unicorn 1824, Latona 1821, Diana 1822, et al, shows what appears to be wales with anchor stock planking so the planking in the photos may be from refurbishing in later years.  Any ideas?  The description at RMG does mention it shows alterations for Latona, Diana, and Fox and they give a date of 1820-3; March 1823

Allan

UNICORN_15.jpg.441e24ec986bc023d5e7cd92819d7ec6.jpg

UnicronZAZ2156.jpg.14485388bb2b05c08e1b9a45ec89c2cf.jpg

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why, there are wales, they are just barely visible. But you can see the top border:

 

image.png.b956b60402f916b65018f80013dfe484.png

 

And see how smoothly they are integrated into the planking:

 

image.png.1cecdad9a1179b29262da7f9622c1d53.png

https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-81777

 

I chose the starboard side because there was no plumbing obscuring the intersection with the rabbet.

 

Edited by Martes
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a time when I had approximate dates for this:

First - the wales stood proud above the planking

Second - there was a transition from the bottom planking to the bottom of the main wale, but a ledge at the top

Third - there was a transition at the top as well as the bottom.   There was a wale -but it was not visible.  The cross section was a mid waist bulge. 

 

The 17th century featured an insane number of wales - one for every full gun deck.  By the mid 18th century, the Georgian I II early III  liners were reduced to two wales.  Or so it appears to me.   I forget what the single raised strakes of carved moulding are named.

 

digression or expansion :

 

The waist has a heavy rail that sits on top of the top timbers.  At the forecastle this rail jogs up.  There is often an additional decorative rail above it.  Are the stanchions that hold up this rail extensions  of the actual top timbers?  Or is the main rail left intact and various carpenters devises used to seat the short stanchions? 

The same aft?

If the main rail is cut thru, its function of keeping out water from the timber end grain is impaired.  If the top timbers are continued all the way to the decorative rail, the shape is set.  The Station lines usually end at the bottom of the highest decorative rail.

 

The fitting of a main rail with a series of square holes that each has to be precise is more work than it is worth for a model- seems to me.

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The same thing happened to Victory: Build with classical wales "the wales stood proud above the planking" (love the formulation!)

 

In the 1860 to 1880 Victory was plancked flush, I would have said for economical reasons, as a harbour ship she did not need that extra strentgh any more.

 

The actual wales were only reintroduced in the the 1920, when the Trafaolgar condition was restored. But even then, these were no thick planks, but normal thick ones fixed with spacers underneath ...

 

XXXDAn

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Jaager said:

Are the stanchions that hold up this rail extensions  of the actual top timbers?  Or is the main rail left intact and various carpenters devises used to seat the short stanchions? 

Dean,  Are you referring just to the Unicorn mentioned above?  If so does the framing drawing help?   https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-81761   

 

15 hours ago, Martes said:

And see how smoothly they are integrated into the planking:

Martes, this is important and it did change over time.   The thicknesses of the wales and planking above and below varied with size of ship and era even within just the English Navy.

 

Examples below show the variation from the 1719 Establishment through the scantlings given by Steel.  Additional details can be found in various contracts as well. 

 

Allan

Establishmentwales.thumb.JPG.e3f62a339b089be0746c72f7f0e9b4b4.JPG

SteelandSRWales.thumb.JPG.44d3a3f7470fd12465e77b69c11946d0.JPG

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, allanyed said:

Dean,  Are you referring just to the Unicorn mentioned above?

No.  I am essaying RN ships - mostly 50 gun and above - from 1719 to 1775.   The problem is where to cut the top timbers. 

Many of the Body plans - and I use only the Body plan to define the timber patterns - continue to the top of the highest rail.

My top timbers are a solid wall.  I COULD use the appropriate members to support the highest rail at the quarterdeck and forecastle. 

I will not because I do not wish to chisel square holes in the main rail.  I am wondering how the actual ships were constructed to support the highest decorative rails at the forecastle and quarterdeck?

I have the same questions about monkey rails on clippers?

Where did they stop the top timbers?

 

My interest continues to 1860 in general,  but my current focus is earlier - when the ships were elegant - not purely functional artillery platforms.  Unicorn is post 1815 - besides - I already lofted a Leda class to get HMS Shannon.

 

One exercise is to explore all of the classes of true 74's  starting with L' Monarque  up to 1775.  with the exception of the Bellona class - which is too crowded for me.   Monarque/HMS Monarch will be a challenge.  The officer who took off the lines of that capture only drew the absolute minimum number of stations.  The work to get the timber patterns will be less, but the frame sections will be very fat - too fat actually.  I will probably subdivide by replicating stations and then have a lot more shaping of the joined sections.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dean,

I don't know if these will help but there are high resolution drawings of the framing of Vengence (74) 1774,   Venerable (74) 1784, and Revenge (74) 1805 on the Wiki Commons site of plans (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich ) .    I set up a file of the 800 or so high res drawings from the site with subfolders by ship size.  I added key drawings in some subfolders from elsewhere in low res if they were missing on the Wiki site as well as contracts where I could find them.   I wanted to have these available for all members in the articles data base or elsewhere but the file is 45GB so apparently cannot be done.  Attached is a contract of a 74 from 1781 that may shed some light as framing is described in some detail in general and the top timbers in more detail on pages 7 and 9. 

 Hope this helps at least a little.

Allan 

74 gun 1781.docx

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...