HMS Sphinx 1775 by mugje - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[mugje]

Update: 

 

I wanted to do 2 strakes with the dropplank at the bow and that difficult corner at the stern before I going to line off the hull.

So I did these yesterday and I am quite happy with the results for a first try. Found it challenging and didn't really know what I was doing regarding the drop plank, but

it looks okay to me. It needs a bit of sanding, but for now it's good. For the stern part...I had a really small gap there and gave myself permission to use some glue and sawdust to fill that up   It sits against the lowerside of the wales...so it won't be seen anyway  

 

Now trying to line off the hull...still feels a bit uncertain if it's right or not, but you don't know if you don't try  . Glad the tape does stick to the hull...did have great difficulty to stick it onto the MDF frames, but this goes well. I shall study a bit more the contemperary models to see the run of the planks.

 

[DonSangria]

It is looking great! Well done!

 

Do you use whole length planks or a pattern with shorter planks along the hull?

[mugje]

13 minutes ago, DonSangria said:

It is looking great! Well done!

 

Do you use whole length planks or a pattern with shorter planks along the hull?

Thanks!

 

I use planks with a length of 12cm. I sort of calculated/measured that from the original planking plan, in a 3 shift plank pattern.

 

Edited April 16 by mugje

[Thukydides]

That's a really nice drop strake, well done.

[rlwhitt]

Very cleanly done - nice!

[Beef Wellington]

Your planking looks spot on, very nicely done.  I'm pleased to see that you appear to have filled in the stern a little to allow the planking to sit nicely against the sternpost, think you will be much happier with that result.  The shaping of the plank ends in this area can be challenging further up the hull, definitely not something to rush.  Looking at what you have done so far, sure you will encounter no major problems.  You have a wonderful model coming together here.

[rvchima]

Beautiful job on the planking. I also like your plan to leave the hull natural. It will look great.

 

Do you have an electric plank bender for the stern? I bought one part way through mine and it worked amazingly well.

[mugje]

11 hours ago, rvchima said:

Beautiful job on the planking. I also like your plan to leave the hull natural. It will look great.

 

Do you have an electric plank bender for the stern? I bought one part way through mine and it worked amazingly well.

 

Thank you and everyone else for the likes and compliments!

 

Yes I do have a electric plank bender and used it in combination with a Amati plank bender (a kind of pliers) to shape the stern planks.

It works great...no need for soaking and waiting.

 

Below is the Amati plank bender...I use it quite a lot, it works fast and simple  

 

Edited April 18 by mugje

[mugje]

I think this is it...flow looks nice everywhere, and symmetrical. It's a bit of guesswork and we will see if it was the right guess  

 

 

 

[rlwhitt]

Hi mugje,  in regards to the Amati (actually, is it the Art Lat one?) plank bender - I've seen it an often assumed it might make crimp marks even on the outside of the plank.  Looking at your results it certainly doesn't seem so - or have you sanded them out?  How thick a plank can you bend with it?

 

Thanks and looking good!

Edited April 18 by rlwhitt

[mugje]

53 minutes ago, rlwhitt said:

Hi mugje,  in regards to the Amati (actually, is it the Art Lat one?) plank bender - I've seen it an often assumed it might make crimp marks even on the outside of the plank.  Looking at your results it certainly doesn't seem so - or have you sanded them out?  How thick a plank can you bend with it?

 

Thanks and looking good!

 

It's actual name is "Form-A-Strip"...pretty original  

 

https://www.amatimodel.com/en/tools-and-equipment-parts-per-model/product-form-a-strip-b7381.html

 

It does make crimp marks on the inside...which is logical ofcourse, but I never experienced having them on the outside. I think when people have them on the outside, they use to much force, or in other words they make the dent to deep on the inside. Just begin with light cuts/pinches and see what happens. There isn't need much force for it to bend a bit...and then just do multiply pinches next to each other to get a more severe bend. And how thick? Depends on the material I think, but I used it also with 1,5mm thick planks without issues. For the price of the tool it's a handy thing to give it a try in my opinion  

[mugje]

Update:

 

Divided the first band in the appropriate amount of planks (5 planks) and started planking away!   feels like a jigsaw puzzle where you make your own pieces. Kinda fun!

 

 

Edited April 19 by mugje

[glbarlow]

Nice looking planking, well done. Looks link you’ve got lining well under control. 
I bend all my planks with steam and heat from a travel iron.  Once I converted to Chuck’s planking technique I never looked back. 

[mugje]

2 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Nice looking planking, well done. Looks link you’ve got lining well under control. 
I bend all my planks with steam and heat from a travel iron.  Once I converted to Chuck’s planking technique I never looked back. 

Thanks Glenn! Same here..."Chuck's method" is just so easy...it works very well  

[CiscoH]

i planned out the planking on my ship (armed virginia sloop) exactly the same way Mugje- split the hull into symmetric bands with blue tape strips and sighted from the side and especially from behind and in front until the curves looked smooth.  for me the hardest part to plank was the sternpost/counter junction area; all the planks went from wide amidships to skinny at the quarterdeck area into a wider trapezoidal shape at the stern.  while at the same time curving upwards.  lot harder than it looked before i started.  i used mostly Chucks mini iron bending method.

your planking is looking great

[mugje]

1 hour ago, CiscoH said:

i planned out the planking on my ship (armed virginia sloop) exactly the same way Mugje- split the hull into symmetric bands with blue tape strips and sighted from the side and especially from behind and in front until the curves looked smooth.  for me the hardest part to plank was the sternpost/counter junction area; all the planks went from wide amidships to skinny at the quarterdeck area into a wider trapezoidal shape at the stern.  while at the same time curving upwards.  lot harder than it looked before i started.  i used mostly Chucks mini iron bending method.

your planking is looking great

Thanks!

 

Yes I found the stern also the most uncertain aspect of the lining off...as you said it goes from one shape to another. The bow is in that sence quite straight forward.

[rvchima]

I agree with everyone - your planking is perfect, too nice to paint.

 

I used my electric plank bender the other day to fit one inner bulwark, and wouldn't you know it, I burned a finger pretty bad. I like to tease my son about all his football (soccer) injuries and now he's giving me grief about yet another model making injury.

[mugje]

1 hour ago, rvchima said:

I agree with everyone - your planking is perfect, too nice to paint.

 

I used my electric plank bender the other day to fit one inner bulwark, and wouldn't you know it, I burned a finger pretty bad. I like to tease my son about all his football (soccer) injuries and now he's giving me grief about yet another model making injury.

Thanks! Yeah I think we all been there...sometimes a bit to much pressure onto the plank, it snaps or whatever and your finger/hand slips right against the hot metal😄

[allanyed]

On 4/19/2024 at 11:14 AM, glbarlow said:

I bend all my planks with steam and heat from a travel iron.

That was my go to as well and it works very well.   Alternatively I found a hot air gun works more easily for me.   Either way, the methodology is the same and gets the job done.   There are a lot of choices of guns from Genesis to Bosch at reasonable prices from many stores or on line.

Allan

[KurtH]

I will be one very  smug and self satisfied modeler if my planking looks like that!  Bravo!

 

[mugje]

Update:

 

First belt on one side complete...gave it a little sand to remove the really strong edges sticking up etc. but nowhere near a finish.

I have a bit of doubt how I executed the planking at stern side. The lines seem a bit strong there ( maybe a seam here and there).

But we will see how the end result turns up, when I give it a final sand and varnish....just going step by step  

 

[allanyed]

Your planking is exemplary!    The only thing that looks a bit different is there are no wales.  I am guessing you will put a third layer of planking to represent the wales so you may find the following  information on planking from the contract for Perseus (20) and Unicorn (20) 1776 interesting.  

Allan

 

Plank of the Bottom   The plank of the bottom to be 3 in thick of English, the best of its kind from the light draught of water up, cut regular & well seasoned no plank to be wrought less than 23 ft in length between the fore & after shifts to have 3 strakes between every 2 butts on the same timber & none less than 5 ft 9 in scarph but in general to be 6 ft & the plank to run 24 ft in length.  

 

Main Wales   The main wales to be in breadth from the upper edge to the lower edge 2 ft 10 in & in thickness 5 in to be worked in 3 strakes of such lengths & the butts properly disposed so as to give the strongest shifts to the ports & to each other.

 

Thickstuff under the Wales To have two strakes of thickstuff under the main wales, the upper edge of the upper strake to be 3 ¾ in thick, the lower edge of the second to be 3 in in thickness.

 

Thickstuff upon the Wales To have one strake upon the main wales of 3 ¾ in thickness & 10 in broad the lower edge of the strake upon that to be 3 in thick & to wear off to 2 ½ at the lower sill of the upper deck port and at the top of the side or lower edge of the sheer strake 2 ¼ in.

[mugje]

1 hour ago, allanyed said:

Your planking is exemplary!    The only thing that looks a bit different is there are no wales.  I am guessing you will put a third layer of planking to represent the wales so you may find the following  information on planking from the contract for Perseus (20) and Unicorn (20) 1776 interesting.  

Allan

 

Plank of the Bottom   The plank of the bottom to be 3 in thick of English, the best of its kind from the light draught of water up, cut regular & well seasoned no plank to be wrought less than 23 ft in length between the fore & after shifts to have 3 strakes between every 2 butts on the same timber & none less than 5 ft 9 in scarph but in general to be 6 ft & the plank to run 24 ft in length.  

 

Main Wales   The main wales to be in breadth from the upper edge to the lower edge 2 ft 10 in & in thickness 5 in to be worked in 3 strakes of such lengths & the butts properly disposed so as to give the strongest shifts to the ports & to each other.

 

Thickstuff under the Wales To have two strakes of thickstuff under the main wales, the upper edge of the upper strake to be 3 ¾ in thick, the lower edge of the second to be 3 in in thickness.

 

Thickstuff upon the Wales To have one strake upon the main wales of 3 ¾ in thickness & 10 in broad the lower edge of the strake upon that to be 3 in thick & to wear off to 2 ½ at the lower sill of the upper deck port and at the top of the side or lower edge of the sheer strake 2 ¼ in.

Thanks Allen! Yes the wales will be installed later. With this kit comes a really nice laser cut wales with beautiful "hook and butt" planks pattern lasered in. I tossed with the idea to install it before the final planking, but it seamed safer to do it afterwards because it could damage in the planking process. And the manual also suggest to install it afterwards. Thanks for the explanation you included