HMS Sphinx 1775 by cdrusn89 - Vanguard Models - 1/64

[cdrusn89]

Allan,

 

   I can take no credit for simply adding the parts provided in the kit.

 

   I did deviate from what was provided in the kit and made the masts starting with rectangular stock instead of the provided dowels. Same with the yards arms as many of them are octagonal in the center section. I find it easier to make something octagonal round than something round octagonal.

[cdrusn89]

Just when I thought things might be going as planned I noticed this:

It would appear that I got the outer bulwark on the starboard side on with the stern higher than it should be. I guess it was the lower, outer bulkhead that is too high but I just noticed it now.

 

As you can see the inner bulwark is about 2mm lower than the outer at the rearmost gun port. The gap gets progressively smaller until at gun port 6 it is "gone".

 

Clearly this is going to cause a problem fitting the stern transoms, windows et al.

 

Not sure what to do at the moment but am trying to figure out what my options might be.

 

 

Edited May 8 by cdrusn89

[KurtH]

Sorry to hear of your difficulty.  I have also made errors similar to yours when I fitted the outer bulwark patterns.  I was so taken with your planking that I clicked like before really looking at the text.  I am sure you will find a way to work around the problem.  I will be interested to see your solution.  I have followed your build with interest and admiration.

Edited May 8 by KurtH

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Kurt - I am going to put Sphinx on the shelf for now. I have another small Vanguard kit that I am going to work on while I consider my options here other than starting over with a new kit and throwing out all the stuff I won't need/use (although having a second set of parts is not necessarily a bad thing).

[James H]

I’m not seeing anything that’s a problem here. Can you show some photos of the rear of the bulwarks where they match up to inner frames. Have you sat the main stern part 2mm above the bulwarks to check where the bottom edge lies?

[Ronald-V]

2 hours ago, James H said:

I’m not seeing anything that’s a problem here. Can you show some photos of the rear of the bulwarks where they match up to inner frames. Have you sat the main stern part 2mm above the bulwarks to check where the bottom edge lies?

I do think you can see the problem in post #74...the right ply gunport pattern looks a bit higher then the left. It's will be not symetrical when you place the stern window etc, but maybe you can shave off here and there some of the top right. You never see both sides at once, so maybe it wouldn't really be noticable

[cdrusn89]

Well, not being able to leave well enough alone I decided to see what the impact of the misaligned sides might be.

 

My first thought was one side of the qdeck beams would be higher than the other but I measured all 18 beam slots and they were less than 1mm different from one side to the other so it appears that will not be a bigger issue than it would otherwise (on Wincheslea it took me quite a bit of effort to get the qdeck beams to fair correctly).

 

So I decided to check the locations of the qgallery slots - If I am correct then the starboard side should be 2mm (+ or -) higher than the port.

 

So I put the hull back in the Amati holder and adjusted to get it as level as I could. It appears the mis-match is only on the after piece of the lower bulwark so I put the digital level across the hull amidships.

And using my digital height gauge confirmed that the starboard side slots for the qgallery is 2mm higher than the port. So the qgalleries will be misaligned by that much unless I take measures (not sure what those might be at this point) to correct it. And yes, I still have to fix the waterline issue at the stern.

 

 

[cdrusn89]

Thanks for the posts guys - it helps to have more than one set of eyes on the problem.

 

I decided to proceed with the lower transom installation and then see how the windows look before taking any other action.

 

In the meantime I am finishing up the yard arms - only four more to go.

[cdrusn89]

So the "plan" as far as I have thought it through so far:

 

   Finish adding the pieces to the stern.

 

   Cut out the interfering pieces at the top of the gun ports - otherwise some of the aft cannon will not fit.

 

   Adjust the top of the starboard bulwark so it meets the top of the stern fascia; tapering so that nothing is removed from the front section.

Cut the bottom of the locating "tab" on the upper part number 45 so the tab is only 1mm thick (versus 2mm unaltered). This will have the part 45 sit 1mm lower than "normal".

Thin from the top the upper part 45 to 1.5mm (versus 2mm) which will lower the top of the upper part 45 by another .5mm.

 

Repeat these actions on the other part 45 and part 45a.

 

Assume that a 1.5mm adjustment will be sufficient to bring the two sides into a least much better alignment.

 

I have not yet figured out what the "unintended consequences" of these actions will but I highly suspect there will be some.

Edited May 9 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

When I started to enlarge the gun ports I realized that one of the "unintended consequences" was that the gun ports (at least the aft four or five on the starboard side are now going too be to large and the provided covers will no longer fit. And when I trimmed the out bulwark I had to remove a goodly number of the pre-drilled holes which I am sure will cause a problem later.

 

Soooo - I am going to pause the Sphinx hull construction and work on the spars, rudder, stove, capstan etc. and hope for an inspiration to strike or "she who must be obeyed" approves another Sphinx kit.

Edited May 9 by cdrusn89

[James H]

One issue that will likely crop up with the stern fascia being too low, is that the rails that run across the stern parts, should flow with those running around the quarter galleries. The correct placement of those stern parts is key to those rails flowing all the way around. 

[targa4403]

1 hour ago, cdrusn89 said:

When I started to enlarge the gun ports I realized that one of the "unintended consequences" was that the gun ports (at least the aft four or five on the starboard side are now going too be to large and the provided covers will no longer fit. And when I trimmed the out bulwark I had to remove a goodly number of the pre-drilled holes which I am sure will cause a problem later.

 

Soooo - I am going to pause the Sphinx hull construction and work on the spars, rudder, stove, capstan etc. and hope for an inspiration to strike or "she who must be obeyed" approves another Sphinx kit.

i wish you god speed with your future endeavors; especially from getting the green light from the admiral.

[cdrusn89]

Here are the Main Top Sail and Top Gallant yard arms joining the rest of the "family".

 

Mizzen Top Sail and Top Gallant to go.

Edited May 10 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

All the masts, yards and associated items completed.

 

On to the stove, capstan, rudder etc.

 

New Sphinx kit procurement approved by "higher authority" so I better not screw this one up "or else"!

[druxey]

Quite the collection you have there! Well done.

[cdrusn89]

Thanks druxey - they have to be done at some point, why not now while awaiting the new Sphinx kit so I can make another attempt at correctly assembling the hull. I can't wait to do another double set of planking.

[cdrusn89]

So on to the stove.

 

Assembly per the instructions proceeded apace until I came to the doors and covers on the top and side of the stove (firehearth I think it was called).

 

Anyway the objective is to get the doors/covers which have two holes in each aligned with the holes that are in the sides/top of the stove assembly.

 

The holes as provided are pretty small; smaller than a #76 (0.200"/.05mm) drill bit. To give myself a fighting chance of getting the holes lined up I drilled them out to #76 on the doors/covers and stove.

 

I cut two pieces of .020" phosphor-bronze wire (two slightly different lengths but long enough to stand proud of the stove side/top when inserted and stopped on the far side/bottom (aka workbench).

 

Then I threaded the door onto the wire. Two different lengths makes this a bit easier.

Slide the door down the wires, placed an ever so small drop of thick CA under where the door will land and pressed the door down and once seated used a toothpick to hold in place while gently removing the wires.

Forgive the pealing black paint - these parts were oversprayed while painting something else and had not been prepped so the paint is not sticking and I sanded some of what did stick off so the CA will bond the metal not the paint.. Hopefully all will be better once the stove is assembled and finally painted.

 

So the "proof in the pudding" is whether the handles will now fit into the doors/covers since that was the whole purpose of have the holes line up in the first place.

 

Not so fast - the handles are square (maybe rectangular) in cross section and the holes are round. Turns out, at least on this version the handles are too big to fit into even the drilled out holes. I had to go to a #74 (.0225/.57mm) drill to get the handles to fit. There was enough friction getting them it that I did not use any glue - they are just "sitting there".

 

The numbers on the wood were put there as they came off the carrier sheet although as it turns out they are pretty "self-identifying".

 

Now on to the chain drive and flue.

Edited May 12 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

The stove joins the anchors in the "to be installed someday" box.

[cdrusn89]

The rudder ready for the paint booth.

 

I will take a chance that I can use this rudder to set the waterline on the new hull. Otherwise I would have to leave the rudder "as is" and wait until I have the hull waterline established which is probably several months in the future. And I can always build another rudder although I would not be looking forward to cutting the heads of another six dozen brass pins.

 

I believe the new Sphinx kit will be here Thursday. I am still trying to figure out the best way to proceed without becoming hopelessly confused about which part is where. That is a big enough problem with just one box (and a large box it is) to content with.

Edited May 14 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

New Sphinx kit has been delayed - now due Friday. Will concentrate on Saucy Jack and trying to bring some order out of the disorder before starting the new hull.

[cdrusn89]

New Sphinx kit has been delayed again - now $45.67 is customs duty is due "at delivery". I tried paying UPS on-line but that did not work for some reason so they will attempt delivery again on Monday - I will be sure to stay home Monday!

 

Anyway I have been working Saucy Jack and some of the other pieces of the Sphinx.

 

Here are the upper and lower capstans and the rudder (as far as I can go I think without the hull) joining the other pieces in the "to be installed someday" box.

[James H]

3 minutes ago, cdrusn89 said:

New Sphinx kit has been delayed again - now $45.67 is customs duty is due "at delivery"

That's actually quite lenient for a kit like that. 

 

I've had deliveries from the US...one of them only $30 plus delivery, and I had to pay £25 fees!

[cdrusn89]

This is my first experience with customs duty on stuff from the UK.

 

I bought HMS Speedy a few years ago and although I had to certify by signing some form that the MDF in the kit was "okay" in some sense there was no customs duty. Likewise with a number of purchases from the SipwrightShop but never anything like the value of a Sphinx kit. Interestingly I also have an Indy kit coming and the customs duty (or whatever the charge) is the same as for the Sphinx in spite it being almost double the cost.

 

It is an ill wind - two more days to work on the Saucy Jack. might get the second layer of planking done by Monday.

Edited May 17 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

For those of you following the customs duty "saga" - UPS stopped a second time this PM and I now have both the Sphinx and Indy kits.

 

Customs (or whatever) charge was $45.67 total for both kits.

 

Pressing ahead with Saucy Jack until Monday anyway.

[cdrusn89]

Proceeding apace I got the chain pumps assembled and varnished.

 

I also built a Syren 1.25" ship's wheel from the mini-kit. It is a little larger (by about  3mm) then the brass one in the Sphinx kit. I will assemble the brass one later and decide which to use. Syren also makes a 15/16" wheel kit but I think that would be too small.

 

Here are the pumps and the wheel.

 

I think I may move on to the stairs next. I always seem to have a problem getting them together. Mine never seem to go together as "smoothly" as the instructions would indicate.

[cdrusn89]

The four ladders assembled and varnished. They are in their own "to be installed later" box and identified per the carrier sheets IDs.

 

These were easier to assemble than some I have had occasion to build. I think principally because the slots for the steps are cut completely through the side. Others just burned an indented slot in the side and getting the steps to line up with and stick to that slot was not all that easy. These went together quickly and I use medium CA to glue in the steps as the outboard sides, with any glue mess is covered by the engraved ladder sides.

[cdrusn89]

Pumps and gun deck hatch coamings and gratings ready for eventual installation.

 

Will probably add another coat of WoP before (or maybe after) installation

Edited May 20 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Saucy Jack is done and the "new" Sphinx is about to begin.

 

I put all of the "other" Sphinx stuff back in that box (including all the plans) so there is no chance of my being caught by a plan or instruction manual update unawares.

 

So back to page 1 and hopefully this time pay more attention to how things fit on each side. Seems that is REALLY important.

Edited June 1 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

And while going through the material in the box I noted that there were four anchors (maybe 3-D printed) in the fittings box. Presumably these would replace the MDF anchors that are still on the carrier sheet. No mention of them in the instruction manual that remains "Revision 2".

 

Is there someplace on the Vanguard site that updates the manuals as the material provided changes?

 

[cdrusn89]

Getting the decking to "slide" down onto the keel/bulkheads was not as easy as I remember it from the first time.

 

I ran a 100 grit sanding stick inside each of the deck "notches" (use up and down 2 or 3 times - took some of the char off) before I could get it down "fore and aft".

 

To increase the chances of getting a good bond between the decking and keel/bulkheads I stretched a rubber band around each bulkhead with the edges stretched out to pull the decking down to the bulkhead.

I "painted" the bulkhead/deck junction with 60/40 PVA/H2O and then turned the hull over and weighted the decking down as I noticed while painting glue that the deck and keel/bulkheads were not firmly mated at the center.

 

I will let this dry and then work the keel bulkhead junctions which are pretty tight without glue. I needed a small hammer to "help" some of the bulkheads to seat completely.

 

 

Edited June 2 by cdrusn89