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Posted (edited)

Thanks Slog,maybe the next mark down would be better,i'll check what everyone else has done before i lay a plank.The line at the moment is off the instruction diagrams.

Edited by kiwiron

Current builds: HMS Victory - Caldercraft 1:72

 

Completed builds: HMB Endeavour - OcCre 1:54   HMS Supply - Caldercraft 1:64. Fishing boats, Bremen,  Palamos.

 

 

Posted (edited)

I used the hull as my wale jig, soaking the planks,bending then letting them dry on the hull.Just painted the edges and face of the bottom and top wale planks off the hull re-fit when dry and into their correct positions. 

post-837-0-75206600-1446411155_thumb.jpg

post-837-0-74353700-1446411169_thumb.jpg

post-837-0-33036800-1446411184_thumb.jpg

Edited by kiwiron

Current builds: HMS Victory - Caldercraft 1:72

 

Completed builds: HMB Endeavour - OcCre 1:54   HMS Supply - Caldercraft 1:64. Fishing boats, Bremen,  Palamos.

 

 

Posted

Very nice Ron. I'm assuming you have built a few ships before? I like the method you are using, works for me also.. Regards ollie

Posted (edited)

Hi Ron

Do your instructions say to fit the main wales before the top layer of planks?  the main wale should be fitted afer the second layer of planks. This is a pic of the first three top planks fitted where the main wale will go on my hull.

 

Steve

post-819-0-45159100-1389782397_thumb.jpg

Edited by shipaholic

Current Build: HMB Endeavour 1:51 (Eaglemoss part work)

Previous Builds: USS Constitution (Revell plastic) HMS Victory 1:96 (Corel) HMB Endeavour 1:60 (AL)

Posted

Or; as an alternative, there is one plank called thick stuff just above the Wales, and you can do three anchor stock below. I still regret not doing that one plank.

Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

I use the same method.........the thinner second planking sitting against the wales lessens the protrusion just enough and make it look more natural.   I use the 1.8 mm planking for the wales and rails and .5 mm for the second planking.   is that what your using Ron?

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted

Thanks a lot men for your comments they are a great help and good to get other peoples opinions and experiance.Thanks Ollie,so far i have done 2 fishing boats and one sailing ship.I thought i would try the hull as a jig a lot more accurate than anything i could have done on the table.Hi Steve the instructions say to fit the wales later.I thought if i put the wales on now i would'nt have to re-do the lines.Also it will be easier to line up the top and bottom planks against the wale.When i glue the wales on they will be higher at the stern on the line in the second photo.All trial and error.Hi Greg i will be doing a thinner plank at the top of the wale which has three planks.I painted the edges of the top and bottom wales like on Augies great build,i love that ship.Hi Popeye i will be using a 1mm top wale plank then three 2mm planks.The second planking layer is 0.6mm limewood for the top and sapelli below the wales. 

Current builds: HMS Victory - Caldercraft 1:72

 

Completed builds: HMB Endeavour - OcCre 1:54   HMS Supply - Caldercraft 1:64. Fishing boats, Bremen,  Palamos.

 

 

Posted

My next decision is should i use my second planks in their 600mm lengths or to cut planks to 200mm.I think it would be better to cut them and easier to lay individually.What do you think?

Current builds: HMS Victory - Caldercraft 1:72

 

Completed builds: HMB Endeavour - OcCre 1:54   HMS Supply - Caldercraft 1:64. Fishing boats, Bremen,  Palamos.

 

 

Posted

I am contemplating same thing Ron.. I'm thinking cut lengths would look nice and more realistic.. I think it would be best to do tapering and fitting of full plank before cutting into the lengths..  Ollie

Posted

some even do scale planking.........both are equally as effective  ;)

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted

Hi there,

 

I'm considering planking using the real length of the planks in my HMS Pandora. I think it would look more natural than eeeeextremely long pieces of wood. That's my opinion.

 

Regards,

Paweł

Paweł

 

 

Current build: HMS Pandora: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3409-hms-pandora-by-jastrz%C4%85b-constructo-185/

 

 

 

Finished projects:

Roar Ege 1:25, Billing Boats

Albatros 1:55, Constructo

Santa Maria 1:50, Mantua

 

Posted

From memory mine were 4mm wide, I'd dry fit the entire length but I drew on the frames in pencil FO I knew how to put the 6 butt shift. That way the tree nails line up correctly. It also resulted in not using stealers at the stern or the bow

Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Some 2nd planking,start from the keel up now.I'm not tapering the planks as i will probably paint the hull.Going good so far.

post-837-0-75609600-1446411357_thumb.jpg

post-837-0-74769900-1446411389_thumb.jpg

post-837-0-15951000-1446411410_thumb.jpg

post-837-0-69058200-1446411429_thumb.jpg

Edited by kiwiron

Current builds: HMS Victory - Caldercraft 1:72

 

Completed builds: HMB Endeavour - OcCre 1:54   HMS Supply - Caldercraft 1:64. Fishing boats, Bremen,  Palamos.

 

 

Posted

exactly how I did my Gothenborg.......the wales look as though they are built in....a subtle rise from the planking.   sweet!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

glad to see your back at the table..........I see the second planking is going well ;)   look like you almost done!   very nice! ;)

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

  • 2 weeks later...

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