Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70

[pirozzi]

I am very busy these days with other projects and can only put in a few hours here and there on this ship.  I certainly can't keep up with Mark. The advantage there is that I can use his log for reference, which I do occasionally (thanks Mark).

All of the chain wales and stools with pre-rigged lanyards are completed. I also placed all of the eye rings and blocks on the decks for rigging later. 

 

On another note, I have a friend who is a seamstress, and she will created and sew the sails for me.  One thing I am NOT is someone who can sew. The admiral does not like to either. 

 

Next up I think is to work on the ship's longboat.

 

Vince P.

[piratepete007]

Vince,

The latest updates from you are very impressive and the ship looks so authentic. Well done on the detailing and yes it can be difficult to fit in ship building with the other demands of life.

 

Pete

[Ulises Victoria]

Vince, you are doing an outstanding job here. Looks clean, authentic and it shows all the love.

 

Congratulations!!!

 

Ulises

[marktiedens]

Looks good ,Vince. Thanks for the reference to my build.  I never thought I would pass everybody up when I started mine. Looks like Ken may pass me up before too long!

 

Mark

[pirozzi]

The port side chain wales, lanyards, and stools are completed. I prefer to rig the lanyards as they are placed on the wales. I find it easier this way to later on attach and rig the shrouds and back stays.

Now off to the starboard side. 

 

Vince P. 

[pirozzi]

I finally finished the ship's boat. The kit supplies a resin hull shell which is a good starting piece. You can go as far as you like with details. The plans go into fairly good detail with hull construction and accessories. If you decide to go with considerable detailing as I did, you can create a nice 2 masted skiff type boat. I think it came out pretty well. Of course, all of the pieces have to be made from scratch with your own materials.

I will show the boat placed on the deck with all of the accessories on the next post. I still have to make the cradles and place all of the accessories in the boat.

I put about 20 hours into making this little boat.

 

Vince P. 

[piratepete007]

Vince, you are spot on that the resin hull supplied for the ship's boat is a starting point. Your adaptation is incredibly well detailed and it all looks good.

Pete

[pirozzi]

I have completed the boat cradles and placed the boat on the deck along with all of the accessories stored top side. I cut a small piece of white tissue paper and wrapped it around the mast and booms to simulate the sails being stowed as well.

 

I don't have any idea what comes next but I will think about it.

 

Vince P. 

[Landlubber Mike]

Looking great Vince!  Are you using the kit wood, or are you using other woods?  I have a couple of Euromodel kits and just wondering what Euromodel builders are doing on their builds, as the wood in my kits looks pretty good.

[pirozzi]

Hi Mike, 

I have used the kit supplied wood throughout the build. I have not found the need to substitute anything. I had to bleach the deck planks to make them lighter,  but the wood was good. The only wood added was for extra detailing as I went along. I have not found any supplied materials that were not of acceptable quality. 

Vince P. 

[ken3335]

Hi Mike, I'll go along with Vince on this. I changed the deck strips for Tanganyika out of preference for colour, all the wood in my kit was of excellent quality more than I can say of some other kits that I've built. I stained my hull light oak and this made the wood slightly more amber and brought out a very nice wood grain. I applied sanding sealer before a light coat of poly. Other than using a few pieces of scrap ply I have only used what was supplied in the kit.

 

Ken

[pirozzi]

I have constructed the base of the bowsprit and the top for the spritsail topmast. While the plans in this kit are very good, this is one area where they are poor. The plans show dimensions for the round mast top, but totally ignore the necessary cross tree that has to support it from the bottom. I used my experience from building other ships with this type of mast top, and the photo gallery on the Euro website. The gallery does have a closeup photo of the underside of the top, which shows the cross tree. (Thanks Pete!) I estimated the lumber size at 2x2mm for the small legs and 4x2mm for the main beams. The 2 small legs are attached at both ends of the square opening in the top, and the main beams are spaced at exactly 5mm apart on the inside and located across the opening where the doubling will be placed for the vertical top mast. The bracket attached to the bowsprit end is made of 2 pieces of 3mm plywood laminated together and shaved to a total width of 5mm, then cut to the proper shape using tracing paper over the plans drawing. I am going to paint the entire round top black before placing it on the end of the bowsprit base.

 

Next up is to place the mast top on the bowsprit and build the rest of the mast.

 

Vince P.  

[piratepete007]

Vince,

You obviously enjoy doing this work and who wouldn't with all the possible interpretations that you are free to make such as with the dimensions of the supporting crosstrees/trestletrees. So again, well done - as always - with your current posting. Its really great watching the forum with you starting on the masts, Mark well into the rigging and Ken maybe starting on the ship's boat.

 

All the necessary detail for building the masts, tops, etc are contained in the file on the Euromodel website - customer assistance/ construction/ Royal William. The specific file which you are free to download is called 'RW.06.MASTS' ....

 

https://www.euromodel-ship.com/eng/royal-william-i-i.php

 

Look at page 17 in this file that covers the bowsprit top you have just worked on.

Pete

Edited August 28, 2017 by piratepete007

[piratepete007]

Vince has just let me know that the link I gave produces a file for hull construction rather than mast construction ! I will prompt Euromodel to correct this when they resume business after the summer holidays.

Pete

[Kevin]

Lovely to catch up on your build, she looks fantastic

 

[piratepete007]

Vince (and others),

Euromodel has now corrected the Royal William links.

 

https://www.euromodel-ship.com/eng/royal-william-i-i.php

 

Pete

 

 

[pirozzi]

I have constructed most of the bowsprit and mounted it on the ship. The jib boom will not be placed until the foremast is completed and stepped. This way I can move the ship around without snapping the long bowsprit. I still have to install the bobstays and gammonings.

 

Vince P. 

[pirozzi]

I have completed the bowsprit bobstays and shrouds. Also the gammonings and the  fare lead rigging blocks mounted on the forward gammoning for rigging routing from the bowsprit. Pretty straightforward. 

 

Next up is the spritsail topmast shrouds and then on to the masts.

 

Vince P. 

[pirozzi]

Finished the spritsail topmast shrouds and ratlines.

 

Next up is to start on the foremast construction.

 

Vince P. 

[pirozzi]

Completed the foremast top. The plywood supplied in the kit for the base of the top was badly warped, so I used some 2mm quality walnut sheet instead.

Both sides were planked with finish planking strips from the kit. The crosstrees and trestletrees were assembled on the top so the spacing could be accurately obtained for the thickness of the doubling for the top mast.

There is also an error in the plans. It shows the  dimensions for the bolsters at 10mm tall and 5mm wide, and 10x5mm lumber is supplied. The height of the bolsters should be 5mm and the width 5mm, so some 5x5mm lumber was used. The bolsters are mounted directly on top of the trestletrees which have a height of 5mm, so the combination of the trestletrees and the bolsters make 10mm in height.

 

Next up is to paint the top black and assemble the topmast, top, and lower mast.

 

While on the subject of errors, the plans show the square base of the top mast at 9.5x9.5mm. It should read 9.5x7.0mm. The thickness has to be the same as the top of the lower mast, which is 7.0mm

 

Vince P. 

[pirozzi]

I am almost embarrassed to show my meager progress with Ken and Mark so far ahead of me on this build, but here is where I am. The foremast is fully constructed. My methods are different from most other builders in that I fully construct the masts off ship. This includes the spars, running rigging, and sails . I find it much easier to move around the mast for the rigging without having to rotate the whole ship. I still have to stitch the sails on, but my seamstress has not completed all of the sails yet. Once the sails are on and all of the running rigging attached I will place the stunsail booms. When sewing on the sails the booms will get in the way.

Once the mast has all of the sails and rigging, it will be stepped into the ship. All of the stays and running rigging will be finished and lastly the lower shrouds. By adding sails, the amount of running rigging increases considerably.

 

Vince P. 

[piratepete007]

Hey Vince,

Every builder is an individual and sometimes it concerns me that such incredible logs posted by the likes of Ken and Mark for the Royal William will deter others from carrying on with their builds. Be not embarrassed by their good works (obviously not as your work does continue). One of the little appreciated virtues of using a Euromodel 'kit' is that it allows for, and openly encourages, the builder to build the ship their way and when you compare yours with Ken and Mark, they are all different.

 

The construction of the masts with all their rigging off the ship is a refreshing approach to see. The kit does supply material for sail construction but so few go that far in their builds and to include these will have to produce a fantastic and exciting extra touch to the finished product.

 

Pete

[marktiedens]

Looks good,Vince. You are a brave person to add the sails to an already complex rig. I have struggled with some of the running rigging without the sails! Keep up the good work.

 

Mark

[pirozzi]

Hi all,

 

Just an update. Even though I have not posted in a while, I have been making progress. The seamstress finished most of the sails. She sewed the basic sails and the wife and I added the framing ropes and the cringle loops to the corners. All of the reefing tie ropes had to be added as well. I am now in the process stitching the sails to the foremast and adding all of the running rigging. Once all of this is completed, I will post some photos before stepping the mast into the ship. I have also completed the construction of the mainmast, but have not added the spars yet.

 

Vince P. 

[pirozzi]

I have completed the construction of the foremast off ship. This includes the spars, sails, and almost all of the running rigging. It will now be stepped into the ship and the standing rigging completed as well as the lower shrouds and attaching all of the running rigging to the deck. With addition of the sails, the amount of running rigging increases substantially.

Like I mentioned before, I prefer to complete the masts off ship so I don't have to rotate the ship continuously to attach the rigging and sew the sails. This method works well for me.

 

Vince P. 

[marktiedens]

Wow - nice looking sails! Will you be doing all the fore & aft staysails also?

 

Mark

[piratepete007]

Whow Vince, those sails with their impressive detail are a sight to behold.

 

Pete

[pirozzi]

On 2/10/2018 at 5:37 PM, marktiedens said:

Wow - nice looking sails! Will you be doing all the fore & aft staysails also?

 

Mark

Hi Mark, yes I will do all of the sails except for the stunsails.

[pirozzi]

OK, the foremast is stepped into the ship. Now comes the fun part of completing all of the associated rigging. Unlike most builders, I actually enjoy the rigging the most.

 

Vince P. 

[donrobinson]

This method is very interesting, and I am thinking of using it on my Stefano when the time comes. Do you think the sails will interfere with tying the shrouds and ratlines? Great looking ship!