Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section

[Maury S]

Adjusting for the changed keel height on the revised shear plan:  If my calculations are correct...Since my gunport was measured on the old plan from the board up and that plan showed a 12" keel instead of the 14" provided, my gunport sill is actually 2" lower than the revised plan.  To keep the distance from the decks to the sill in the same relationship, both decks should be 2" lower (as measured up from my building board).  That means the top of the lower deck cleat measurement that David cites as 10'2" should be set at 10' 0" at the dead flat and  10'2 1/2 " instead of 10' 4 1/2 inches at frame 5.  This exercise just shortens the height of the space below the lower deck.  Anyone want to show me a diifferent calculation.  I still have to allow for any discrepancy between the plan and the as-built sill.

Maury

[dvm27]

Maury,

 

II would continue using the older version of the plan with the 12" deep keel and keep taking the lines of her as before. The only modification you

will need to make is to narrow the filling planks below the lower clamp by 2" total.

[Old Sea Dog]

Very nice work

[mtaylor]

Very clean and precise, Maury. I do like that idea of predrilling the strakes for the treenails.  Beats the heck out of doing them in situ with a pin vice.

[Maury S]

Lots of progress in the last few days. After a lot of measuring, the clamps were cut and installed.  Foot waling installed on the Port side (Stbd will be left more exposed).  I was very disapointed with the bass wood I used for the first attempt at the linber strakes...too fuzzy.   Back to the Boxwood.   I cut one edge on the table saw with a 45° angle.  I then put the rough piece in the vise and sanded a parallel edge on the other side of the plank.  There is a small 45° edge going the other way that gives the bottom of the limber a firm edge to rest in the rabbet.  I marked 3 ' centers, drilled with a 1/16" bit (3" at scale) and cut them. 

Before treenailing, I gave the floors a coat of water based conditioner, then a coat of Poly.   I used the Rust-oleum Ultimate Matte finish on my Fair American and really liked the look...much better than the Satin finish from MinWax.  The reason for doing it now is about to become obvious.  I did not want my treenailing to leave a stain.  Drawing about 400 treenails and installing , then sanding them down (without maring the planks) just is not how I wanted to spend the next several weeks, so I used MinWax walnut colored wood putty.  Rubbed it into the holes with a small spatula, wiped off the excess, then ran a wet Q-Tip over the planks and all the residue came right off.  Except where I need the tree nails for strength, I'll probably use this method again.

By the way, the Sand Blaster extra fine 400 grit (from MMM) is a great product for final finish. 

I think I'm caught up with the end of the last instructions for now so I'll wait patiently for Greg to post the next chapter.

Maury

[dvm27]

Looks excellent, Maury. I like the finish also.

[druxey]

Hmm... I hate to have to admit it, Maury; I like the look of your treenail 'cheat'. Particularly after having driven literally thousands of real scale treenails myself. 

[Rustyj]

Beautiful work Maury. If you didn’t fess up I wouldn’t have known they weren’t real treenails.

[Trussben]

Got to agree with the others Maury, treenails look great the way you have done them.

 

What would you say the difference is in the matt finish you used and the Minwax satin WOP? I use the Minwax on my Confed and I think its a nice finish - not shiny etc....

 

ben

[Maury S]

Ben,

The Matte Finish has even less sheen than Satin and it's water cleanup.  (I don't recall about the MinWax Satin).  It really is as close to no finish as I've seen, yet gives all the protection of Poly.  I forgot to mention, after the water is wiped on the planks to clean off the putty, I wipe it off (dry) with a soft cloth.  Thanks to everyone's comments about the treenails.  I was not sure what the reaction was going to be (cheating and all). 

Maury

[Maury S]

I've run a bit ahead of the instructions so I've just done the lower deck beams,  Mast Step and the lower board of the well.  Several questions arise as things are about to block up the bilge.  The mast step has to allow water to pass under for collection by the pumps, so a large chunk of the step was removed, with plenty of support left along the keelson.  The lowest athwart-ship boards for the well and shot locker need fitting so the pattern was drawn on a card held at one end of the model, transferred to wood and then finish sanded and filed to fit.  Once done, two more were made.  Water has to flow to the well where it's collected by the pumps.  That means the well boards have to be left short enough to allow the flow.  But the shot locker?  Surely shot was not dumped in the locker blocking the waterway.  Would there be limber boards inside the locker?

Alignment of the well and locker is tied to the lower deck beams and I'm not convinced I'm reading the plans properly for the placement, so I'm waiting for Greg to produce the next installment.  I've got other projects for the next couple of weeks so I'll just stop for now.

Maury

[dvm27]

Maury,

 

My interpretation of the main mast step is that the bottom portion is flush with the top of the lip cut for the limber strake. Whether it runs parallel to the keelson (as you've penciled on the illustration) or angles up  towards the keelson I can't say. The drawing in Goodwin is not clear here. I think the limber channel would need to be continuous from fore to aft and that the main mast step would not impede this. I think the bottom edge of your step should start in the lip mortised for the limber strake and follow the angle of the strake as it fays into the top of the keelson.

 

Perhaps others can help here.

[druxey]

Certainly the bottom of the shot lockers would be above the limber channel. I would have solid limber boards spanning the gap. Also, the cut-away on the lover side of the mast step could be larger. The outer edge of the angled cuts should end up at the rabbet for the limber boards. I agree with Greg. Does that make sense?

[Tarjack]

Maury,

 

 I think the bottom edge of your step should start in the lip mortised for the limber strake and follow the angle of the strake as it fays into the top of the keelson.

 

Perhaps others can help here.

 

correct,

the space is needed for the limberchain

 

very nice work. Congratulations

Edited April 16, 2013 by Tarjack

[Maury S]

Greg, Robert, Druxey,  Thanks for the input.  A flat floor for the shot locker makes sense.  I can fiddle with the Mast Step and make it work per your comments.  I think I may as well put in the wedges as well.

Maury

[Tarjack]

Greg, Robert, Druxey,  Thanks for the input.  A flat floor for the shot locker makes sense.  I can fiddle with the Mast Step and make it work per your comments.  I think I may as well put in the wedges as well.

Maury

hello Maury

 

and do not forget the Limber chain.

The chain is a very important part of equipment.

It allows the team to keep the free flow of water

That is also the reason why the removable boards are mounted on the limberway

 

Please excuse my bad english, but i dont trust the translator

Edited April 16, 2013 by Tarjack

[dvm27]

Robert,

 

Your English is quite good. I've never seen an illustration of a limber chain. Do you have one?

 

Greg

[Tarjack]

Robert,

 

Your English is quite good. I've never seen an illustration of a limber chain. Do you have one?

 

Greg

Hi Greg,

 

Yes I have. But I have to look for the drawing. I show the picture as soon as I got it

 

Be patient

[Tarjack]

Robert,

 

Your English is quite good. I've never seen an illustration of a limber chain. Do you have one?

 

Greg

hello greg,

 

for limber chain see this:  http://dictionary.die.net/limber%20chain

 

regards

[Maury S]

Back from vacation...I've finished up the fore and aft walls of the well and the face of the shot locker.  Boards are chiseled at an angle creating an over-lap. Minor tweaking of the lower slat so all three pieces line up evenly. The floor and top of the shot locker, along with hinges are the next steps. I'm holding off on the sides until we get the lower deck beam layout.  Since the stanchions need to be attached to the beams, the length of the well can not be determined until the beams are properly aligned along the clamp. 

 

**Later modification!  While the NMM Plans dictate the size of the well, you will find out later that the pump cases run right through the side walls.  If you widen the well by 6", the cases should fit without cutting into the walls.  Greg suspects that some kind of on-site modification to the well was necessary in constructing the full sized ship.**

 

Maury

Edited September 19, 2014 by Maurys

[dvm27]

I'm working on that installment as we speak, Maury. Should have it out in a week or so.

 

Greg

[Maury S]

After cutting and beveling edges of side boards, I've started on the well sides.  Four strakes from bottom up, then the entire well structure is solid, and square.  Sanding sticks were handy to use to hold the boards against the stanchions while glue dries.  I can now take it out and finish the walls from top down.

Maury

[druxey]

Well, you are moving forward nicely, Maury. I'm not sure that the lowest athwartship plank should intrude down into the limber channel. It might be better to align the lower edges with the top of the limber boards.

[Maury S]

Druxey,  Thanks, I'll be shaving them back a bit.

Maury

[dvm27]

Something along these lines, MAury.

 

[druxey]

Exactly, Greg! 

[Maury S]

Lower athwart-ship planks sanded back to just below the limber board intersection.  THe lid to the shot locker is two boards glued and beveled, but I only scored for the two doors rather than cut all the way through.  Hours spent on the shot locker hardware.  After cutting the three pieces for each hinge (two parts of the "T" and the wire for the hinge barrel) I started to hard-sloder them.  On most attempts, the pressure of the butane torch blew the wire off center.  Solution;  Work with long pieces, high temp. solder on the "T" and lower temp. on the wire.  By using the long pieces I was able to hold them in place while using the torch.  Bent to shape, then a quick filing, dip in acetone and a vinegar bath cleaned them up enough for blackening.  Very dilute (5:1 water: Chem)  "Blacken-it", then a stopper bath in vinegar.  Much more difficult to see the hinge details now.  I'll glue them in place with CA.

Not quite as clean a job as Greg's, but I'm happy with the progress so far.

Edited May 16, 2013 by Maurys

[dvm27]

Well done well, Maury!

[mtaylor]

Sweet looking shot locker, Maury.  The hardware is perfect.

[jml1083]

Beautiful workmanship Maury.