MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed

[NMBROOK]

Hi Richard

Sorry for the late reply,been busy plastering .I have 0.3mm drills for 0.27 wire and 0.18mm drills for 0.15 wire.The 3 hundredths of a mm are for glue clearance.To roll the heads,I used a VERY blunt scalpel blade.Larger diameter copper can be done with a blunt kitchen knife.A sharp blade will cut through the copper before a decent burr is formed.I roll mine back and forth on a cutting mat.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[rtropp]

Nigel,

thanks

richard

[NMBROOK]

Just a small update.I have finally succeeded with creating the grating fastenings.I have managed to set the mill to be able to drill TWO 0.18mm holes in the one mm square available in the grating joints.The consistency is a testimony to the accuracy of Proxxons MF70.Unfortunately due to the sizes involved it is a slow process.Any more than two rows of holes,my eyes go into meltdown,even with the optivisors.As a little relief,I am installing the copper 'treenails' in the gun deck.I haven't taken any pics,I will do so when the process is complete.Trying to photograph the gratings at least,without copper fastenings is a waste of time with my limited camera,the holes are barely visible to the naked eye.So if no more pics for a month or two,I am still working away,just driving myself insane drilling and filling with copper wire, several thousand holes      

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[egkb]

Thats Dedication Mate... I'd just lie and say they were all done.. especially if you can't really see them... 'Oh Yea, They are all in there somewhere.. Honest.. Can't you see them? ahem ahem'     

 

All The Best

 

Eamonn

[rtropp]

Nigel,

I can understand how time consuming it will be to complete the fastenings.  I am going to try a similar use of the copper fastenings but will have to do a lot of practice.  I will probably start with whatever gauge wire works with the #80 drill bit as it is more easily available.  If I get good at it I will invest in the finer bits.  I have found a place in the US that has them but they are still expensive  :-)

I look forward to seeing how the fastenings look on the grates and on the gun deck.

Richard

[NMBROOK]

Thats Dedication Mate... I'd just lie and say they were all done.. especially if you can't really see them... 'Oh Yea, They are all in there somewhere.. Honest.. Can't you see them? ahem ahem'     

 

All The Best

 

Eamonn

Thanks mate I fear there may be a fine line between dedication and insanity    

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Nigel,

I can understand how time consuming it will be to complete the fastenings.  I am going to try a similar use of the copper fastenings but will have to do a lot of practice.  I will probably start with whatever gauge wire works with the #80 drill bit as it is more easily available.  If I get good at it I will invest in the finer bits.  I have found a place in the US that has them but they are still expensive  :-)

I look forward to seeing how the fastenings look on the grates and on the gun deck.

Richard

Hi Richard,

The copper wire I am using comes with an invisible enamel coating,I believe it is intended for rewinding electric motors etc.The available selection of sizes is just massive and works out many times cheaper than buying wire intended for model use.

I am finding it helpful to mark lines of holes using Tamiya masking tape,then run along the edge marking each hole lightly with a sharp awl.This stops the drill wandering as very small inaccuracies show up,especially when you go down to the really small sizes.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

I am currently decorating and between coats As the sun is shining,I thought I would take some pics of where the build is up to at the moment.No pics of the gratings yet as I will photograph these when I start building them up with their combings which will be in Ebony.

   I have fitted the deck clamps back to roughly amidships.They extend right up to the deck underside.This isn't historically correct,however it is my intention to cut a 3mm deep rebate to take the lodging knees.This creates a flat surface for the knees to abut to,rather than contending with the severe tumblehome at this point.When assembled,the finished appearance will be the same as if I had built it historically correct.The hooked scarph joints are clearly visible.Both these clamps and the scarphed spirketting will be fitted with copper fastenings 0.8mm diameter extending completely through the hull as it stands now.I am undecided as to whether to represent bolt heads on the deck clamp fixings to illustrate proud bolt heads.

   Work is progressing at a slow but steady pace on the deck plank fastenings.I have fitted two staggered fixings per main beam and one central for each ledge.The hatch openings have been roughly cut to size.Final finishing will be done when the hatches are made up.The area in front of the main hatch has further planking to be added for the flat capstan base.I got carried away drilling holes,I could have left this section  

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Edited December 15, 2014 by NMBROOK

[jaerschen]

Congrats Nigel, very clean work.

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much Juergen

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[mtaylor]

Looks very good, Nigel.   You perked my curiosity button... the bolts for the clamps and spirketting went completely through the hull?  I guess I best do some research before I go much further....  just in case.

[NMBROOK]

Thank you Mark however,no,I said completely through my hull as 'it stands'.The planking on the outside will cover the ends when it is fitted.I was meaning that these 'bolts' would offer some strength to the model and are not just there for cosmetic purposes,sorry perhaps I should have been clearer

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[rtropp]

Thanks for the masking tape tip.

I will be using it on some practice strips to test my hand at  making the bolts using my current supplies.

If the test goes well, I will probably try my hand using the sizes you have outlined.

 

Richard

[Nightquest1000]

Hi Nigel,

 

good progress.

I'm still curious about this pin rolling business. Can you eplain how that works. I am not finding anything here in the Forums.

 

cheers

Tom 

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much Tom

It was bugging me so I have spent a good hour finding a video Alexey Domanoff posted on making nails.I actually found it on the Domanoff workshop's website.Here is the link

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3315-making-small-nails-with-round-head/?p=91910

 

I hope this helps and is surely better than me trying to put it in words.This is the technique I use.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

A very small update,but probably a major milestone achieved for me                  

The picture shows the forward grating section sized,however the rebates for the anchor ropes need cleaning up after installing all the fastenings.The eagle eyed(enlarging pic essential) will notice I have installed one line of the double nailing.I have found it necessary to install a pair at the same time due to the limit of how small a droplet of cyano I can apply.The holes are 0.3mm apart.I have decided to sand the radius profile to the top rather than risk damaging what amounts to about twenty hours work so far!!This will be done when the grating has been fitted with the combing.The nailing should become more visible then as there are cyano deposits on the surface at the moment.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[egkb]

Classy Stuff Nigel ! So when are you going to put the little wee nails in?          

 

All The Beat

 

Eamonn

 

Just Kiddin.. I can see them.. Honest 

[NMBROOK]

Thanks mate   Just for you,proof of nail existance           Wire is slightly larger than the hairs on my Jack Russell  

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[CaptainSteve]

That is some fine work, Nigel !!

[Mirabell61]

the treenailed deck looks great Nigel,

 

seems to be never ending drilling session....

 

Nils

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Steve and Nils Yes it FEELS like a never ending drilling job Nils        

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[jaerschen]

Hm Nigel, I can't believe this little scale, the tweezer must have a lenght of 15" or so.

But seriously, outstanding work.

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much Juergen Yes,they are heavy I also have a ruler 20ft long divided into twelve that says 'inches' on it    

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[rtropp]

The problem with following threads such as yours is I keep thinking "I have to try that."

Before I know it two or three weeks have gone by. 

 

But... I really do have to try it :-)

 

Thanks for the fine works and all the pictures and explanations.  Very helpful.

 

Richard

[NMBROOK]

Thank you Richard I am glad you and others find my logs helpful,that is the main reason I post.I remember the days before the net and when Keith Julier's  books were in their infancy,you were very much on your own and it was a struggle.Now things are very different,everyone is free to share knowledge and it is fantastic.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

I think you have pretty much hit the nail on the head there Geoff There wasn't and still isn't any clubs for modelers specialising in wooden period ships in the UK.We have always been second class to RC models ( although I should point out I do that as well).There were only two builders known to many,Keith Julier and Chris Watton.Kit makers were never bothered about how the shortcomings of their product,most were never finished.

Things have changed so much since I started and they are changing even faster now.Everyone is willing to share there techniques and we all benefit.No matter whether it is modelmaking or something else,being able to bounce ideas off people is far more productive than solitary head scratching    

So my answer is no,I wouldn't have expected to have so many friends around the world to share ideas with,even more so,is probably about half I couldn't hold a conversation with,without the translator.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[CaptainSteve]

... not to mention the ultimate resource; that being the photographic eye-candy which shows - in eye-popping detail - exactly how the Masters create their workmanship.

And it's now available (courtesy of MSW and the inter-ma-net thingy) to all !!

[Added Bonus: No translation required]

Edited December 14, 2014 by CaptainSteve

[NMBROOK]

Only a small update,but otherwise I may end up missing a step or two.I have had a slight change of plan in that I am going to curve the gratings rather than sand the shape on the top face.This came about after I thinned the grating down and realised it should be a reasonably easy task to shape in a jig with the application of water.

I plan to get the full thickness down to a little over 1mm.This should give a 'finer' scale appearance.I have begun work on the forward combing.This is sawn from an ebony billet and the rebate added on the tablesaw before cutting into sections.The mitres were sized using the bench disc sander rather than attempting to cut these with the saw.

One of the athwartship sections has had the rebate extended to match the curve of the grating underside.This was done with scalpel and a jewellers file.All external faces at present are oversize,these will be cut after assembly.

The reason I chose to mitre instead of replicate the original joints it purely for cosmetic reasons.The joints will be invisible in the finished ebony,but I can achieve a better finish with no exposed endgrain on the corners.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NAZGÛL]

That high level of quality is impressive!

 

/Matti