MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Matti and Brian

 

Unfortunately not Brian Trying to juggle over fifty hours work,twelve hours commuting and some modelbuilding into my typical week  

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Grating construction pt2

 

I next glued battens into the notches in the ledges.The height of the battens was oversize as the tops would be milled off.I used aliphatic,with a drop in each joint rather than using dilute PVA,

When set,the top face of the gratings was faced of again with the miller,but still above finished level.Whilst on the mill bench,I trimmed the ends of the battens flush with the end ledges.

 

I have made the decision to carry out representation of all fastenings with copper.This was my original intention at the start and I have decided to stick to it.So now to the grating nailing.I have started drilling two holes at each intersection 0.3mm diameter.Unfortunately this must be done manually with a pin vise.Due to the drill diameter,I was unable to find anything adequately concentric and small enough to hold the drill in the mill or rotary tool.Into the holes I am bonding with CA 0.27mm copper wire.I have made a start in the pics,but you can appreciate it may be a little while before part 3 .The top face still has around 0.4mm of material to be removed so this should eradicate the glue residue.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NAZGÛL]

Superb work mate,  your attention to wood color gives your models such harmony!

 

 

/Matti

[Ferit]

Very detailed work Nigel... But why the holes are rectangular, not square. In respect of your knowledge and precision may I learn the reason?

[NMBROOK]

Thank you Matti and Ferit  and Ferit a valid question.The holes at the sides are not part of the grating,this section will be cut through.The holes in the middle appear a little out of square because the 'burrs' from milling have not been cleaned off.The direction of feed forms the rough edges on two sides of the hole only .

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

In an attempt to address the poor picture quality above,I post a better quality example .Half of the nails fitted in one grating and trimmed flush(although the keen eyed will note I have one to redo as the copper was not inserted properly and dislodged whilst trimming).I have ordered some liver of sulphur gel,but I am sat on the fence as to whether to use it on these fixings.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Well I am not a happy bunny writing this Unfortunately whilst milling the grating face,some of the copper was 'dragged' out and resulted in grating destruction.

Progress on mark 2 gratings was dogged with further issues of timber splintering,mainly due to the small size of the 'tongues' I am trying to produce.This is not helped by the fact of using pear.I know I wouldn't have these issues with boxwood but then again,boxwood would not look right when everything else is pear.

I have avoided the common route of cutting grooves in a sheet and sawing strips off,because I know I will get charring on the pear from the saw cut.

Taking a break from this task and will continue elsewhere whilst I think of a better plan.Also as the copper fixings in the grating was a no go,this inturn means I am abandoning the use of copper fixings elsewhere.It really was an all or nothing decision for me.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[GuntherMT]

That's too bad Nigel, they were looking really nice.

[NAZGÛL]

Sorry to hear of the problems, Nigel. I'm sure you will work it out.

 

 

/Matti

Edited October 22, 2014 by NAZGÛL

[egkb]

Stick with it Bud, I know you'll sort it.. !

 

E

[themadchemist]

If we only had the hours back, that we put into making pieces that did not work, we'd have 1/2 our time back but wouldn't have learned 1/4 as much.

Sorry to hear of the issues, they were looking so nice also,

I seem to remember a certain builder back several months ago that couldn't bend ebony... until someone helped out. Sometimes it takes another set of eye's and suggestions to lead to the elusive answer.

 

That pear is beautiful, where did you source it from?

[NMBROOK]

Thank you for your support everyone If it was all plain sailing(no pun intended) then there would be no more challenges I am more determined than ever to find a solution,but a break from gratings and some pause for thought is on the cards I shall resume work on the main hull instead and apply coat nine of poly to the deck.

Keith I sourced the pear for this and Royal William from Dennis Nixon in the UK,AKA Twigfolly.com 

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[mtaylor]

Nigel,

 

Sorry to hear about that.  What some, like EdT do is build the gratings, mill/sand to shape for the deck curvature, etc.  Then drill and add the copper.  They then file down the copper and blacken it.  I think he sometimes does the last several steps (shaping, drilling and coppering in situ.  I'd have to go back and look at his Naiad to be sure.

[NMBROOK]

Thank you John and Mark

I will check out EdT's log Mark.The only issue with doing it in situ is the fact the upper grating will be visible underneath,this would mean ideally drilling blind holes.I have already thought of moving up to the next size of copper.This would enable me to use a 0.4mm drill.Which inturn would mean I could use the mill (with micromot chuck)and table to position the holes.Having studied tonight the pics of the builders model,I could actually go to a slightly wider(2mm v 1.5mm)ledge and batten as I have too many holes in my version.I still want to maintain 1mm square holes as this is about bang on scalewise,any bigger and it is a foottrap.Incidentally,the kit gratings have 2mm square holes!!!!!!    

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Kevin]

I am learning so much at present, thankyou for showing your build and great photo's

[NMBROOK]

Thank you Kevin I think the biggest lesson and reason I don't mind posting the bits that go wrong,is that no matter how long you have been doing this,things don't always go as planned

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Ok then,hopefully a more positive post.After trying the table saw route and more failures(the little nibs kept breaking of)I think I have it sussed.When in doubt,consult a book.After studying Frolich's method,it made a lot of sense when working with the problematic pear.Just a couple of tweaks to use the mill instead of a tablesaw.

 

So here we have Gratings mark 4?Part one.

 

A solid block 6mm thick was machined to follow the same pattern as what Frolich does.Basically the ledges are machined in the top face leaving some material acting as a backer holding them the correct distance apart.When the battens are glued and set,the rear face is sanded away leaving a complete grating.The important factor was the order of doing things to prevent the 'nibs' from being chipped.The block was placed in the mill so that the grain followed the ledges i.e.athwartships.1.5mm wide by 1.5mm deep grouves were then cut the right distance apart for the run of the battens.4mm deep by 1.5mm grouves were then machined perpendicular to these.These are the gaps between ledges.I have changed the gap despite what I said earlier to 1.5mm.This then matches the contemporary model,so should not look out of place.This process leaves the ledges attached to a backer which holds everything true while the battens are fitted.The fact that the final cut runs inline with the grain results in crisp 'nibs' with not chipping.I will take photos of the machining process for the next post,I didn't bother while making this until I was sure it would work

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Edited October 23, 2014 by NMBROOK

[NMBROOK]

Gratings Mk 4 part 2

 

1.5mm wide battens were glued into the grouves and allowed to dry.I used alaphatic applied with a cocktail stick and excess was vigilently removed with a wet brush.When dry,the back was sanded off and the battens flushed off.I used a small disc in the Proxxon IBE to do this.Before final trimming and profiling I am going to apply two coats of heavily thinned matt poly to prevent any splintering.Mr Frolich does mention this in his book and seems like a good insurance policy.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Edited October 23, 2014 by NMBROOK

[mtaylor]

By jove, I think you got it!!!!!!!!!    Well done, Nigel.

[NMBROOK]

Thank you Mark  Btw,I checked EdTs Naiad log,no nails in the gratings,Frolich does say at 1/48 they should be no bigger than 0.2mm.I wouldn't even know where to buy a drill that small,never mind drill more than two holes without it snapping,so that idea has gone in the scrap bin with the other gratings  

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[themadchemist]

Even if the nailing is too big, it still looks cool as heck, of course there is a steep price for that added coolness.

 

and I must say, that is some gorgeous pear wood.

[Beef Wellington]

Wow, very nice gratings Nigel!  Envious

[gjdale]

Nicely done Nigel and kudos for your perseverance!

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much Jason and Grant Still can't believe I went through all the trial and tribulations without one swear word     Just got several more to make now

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[mtaylor]

Crap.  My apologies Nigel.  I thought EdT did the nailing.   I'll go stand in the corner and write "check before posting" 100 times.     

[Ferit]

More and more fine and realistic...

Square Holes!...

Edited October 24, 2014 by AlphaUrsaeMinoris

[Ferit]

May a pin with a stable/fixed double points be more accurate to determinate the two standart spaced holes for the nails at each corner, Nigel?

[NMBROOK]

Thanks Ferit  ,I have actually found cobalt drill bits down to 0.15mm diameter now.These have a 1mm shank and would fit in the MF70 collet.Only downside is they aren't cheap  

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.

After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.

For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.

The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.

I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Mirabell61]

Very nice looking Nigel,

 

the Color Play of the cerry stained parts and the light Color Wood, although it will be planked over later on, always reminds me of the structural sandstone Color Play of structural gothic cathedral- or monastery Buildings

Lovely work...

 

Nils