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Posted

Rudder time...  As usual in this kit it is built up in layers.

 

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With a bit of sanding and glue... (tiller is probably upside down in picture...)

 

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Now we come to a problem.  The itty bitty little tiny space on the ship where this big fat rudder is supposed to fit into.  Obviously gotta work a bit of shaping on the top half of the rudder and the "rudder hole" (I am sure there is a nautical term for this area). 

 

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Posted

After a bunch of shaping and cutting away, I am able to temporarily get the rudder in.  Next up is making the gudgeon and pintles.  Which include soldering and blackening.... Yikes, will be my first time doing both. 

 

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Posted

So first attempt at silver soldering went ok.  Was difficult trying to get the little tubes in the correct orientation to the strip.  They kept coming out crooked.  It was easy to just reheat it and move em a bit though.  Here are the rough gudgeon prior to cleaning them up.

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Every day acquiring new skills :)

 

Posted

Had to leave off the rudder as I don't want to attach it until the end as I am still moving the ship about too much.

 

As Bob (Rafine) also had to do on his stem I need to cut out a slot and thin it so the figurehead can fit.

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Here is the resin piece provided.  Needs a little cleanup.

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Almost forgot had to get it sitting down far enough to clear the bowsprit.

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Next step to start building up the headrails.

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Cheers

 

Posted

Don't know what is worse.... sanding all the char off of laser cut pieces or dealing with incompletely cut CNC pieces that don't go all the way through...

 

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with a bit o' blood ta boot

Posted

Dave you are probably correct but I am just getting a bit frustrated with some of these pieces.  You can see the grain in the wood and those small pieces are splintering a ton when I am getting them removed from the blank.  Luckily as with most of this kit, the pieces are double layered so I can glue all the fragments back together....most of the time...

Posted

Just found your build log Michael. Great work so far. I look forward to following along.

Posted

Michael:  I've used a Dremel cut off wheel to free parts from the billets with good results.  With the very small parts you need to go super slowly and cautiously, and always cut with the grain...but you already know that!  I can't tell you how many parts for my LSS Armed Virginia Sloop I had to remake because i damaged them removing them from the billets.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Spent the last few modeling days on what I think is the hardest part of the entire build to date...The headrails.  Got them in and once the glue dries will work on a bit of final finishing.

 

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Next step is the stern and quarter galley resin castings.  At one time I thought that maybe I would replace these with my own carvings but after a bit of practice I am nowhere near patient enough for that.  Maybe one day in a few years :)

 

Here they are (the stern has been filed down to shape and fits pretty well on the back).  One thing is the casting is flat but the stern has a curve to it.  It is not to bad but I would have to CA it to get it to bend and I hate to use CA.  Going to try a piece of scrap to see if I can heat it up a bit and bend to shape.  I have no idea if that is going to work.  Will probably start with just a hair dryer and go from there.

 

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Posted

 Was able to use a hair dryer to very gently bend the transom so it would fit flush on the back of the ship. And now it's just slow going cutting out all the windows.    I am happy that the Stern posts are lining up with the windows very nicely.

 

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Posted

Good progress Michael, what are you using to cut out those windows? Looks very delicate

Posted
4 hours ago, donrobinson said:

Good progress Michael, what are you using to cut out those windows? Looks very delicate

 Thank you. I am just using my small files. I am using the round one kind a like a drill to drill a hole in the middle and then slowly enlarging it with the half round, square, flat files.  The material is soft enough that it's fairly easy to do. Not sure what it's doing to my files though.  I have to make sure that I'm very careful. The material seem strong enough but as you can see on the second window from the right at the very bottom it will crack if I put too much pressure on it. 

Posted

Was able to start on the rest of the armament.  Painting went well.

 

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Once again the kit want you to make something out of the styrene strips.  Much like the pump handles of post #232 I did not want to use this and then "paint it some color".  I simply used a decking strip instead. 

 

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After I get the base plate on tonight will end up painting them black i think. (ouch one tab broke off while working on it)

 

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