what is the ideal modelling table?

[AON]

Richard

 

frame $470 - e-bay

$769 Uplift

$940 Livello (crank)

$1439 Steelcase (air touch)

 

Alan

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

I like your idea, so I ordered one mechanism, did a cherry top and added caster wheels.

The only questions I am asking myself: why did I wait so long!

[AON]

Good evening Gaetan,

 

Could you please tell me where you ordered your lift from so I can check it out

 

Merci

 

Alan

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Alan, here is the internet site, but I ordered it through a local retailer, to save delivery.

http://www.workriteergo.com/products/workcenters/proliftix-electric

[AON]

It is an extremely nice set up you have created but please tell me you didn't pay $1000+ for the base!

 

I am going to get some pricing for pulleys, cable, swing hinges for the pivot top and a lazy susan type bearing pad for the rotating top.

My gut tells me this will save me  bags of money plus there is always the unmatched satisfaction of having built it from scratch.

 

I have started a 3D model of the table tops and realize the rotating top needs to be raised to clear the fixed horizontal top when the pivot top is utilized.

 

Will hopefully post something after the weekend.

Edited April 17, 2014 by AON

[AON]

My budget estimate for now

 

Garage Door Pulley (Canadian Tire) $5.99 ea x 10 = $60 approx.

100 feet Steel wire rope (Canadian Tire) = $28.99 reg

sub total $90

Say $125 with all hardware (clips, bolts, etc) and taxes and I have a mechanical lift (less the counter weight container ... beach sand is free)

 

Knife Hinge 3/4 x 1-3/4 x 1/8 (Lee Valley) $33.30 a pair

Aluminium 9" Lazy Susan (Lee Valley) $23.90

sub total $57.20

Say $66 with taxes and I have a combination rotating/swiveling model top

 

Now I need to complete a drawing to get lumber and hardware cost for the desk and cabinet enclosure

I'm going to guess a couple hundred bucks

So for about $400 and some effort I might have a closing cabinet modelling work station

 

I will keep you posted

[Guest Tim I.]

I would agree with the others have said that tool, material organization and lighting are a primary thing to consider. My overarching issue is I never have enough space -- or rather I fill it up too quickly.

I have two spaces I use, I would prefer to have them combined, but alas not enough space. One area in the picture included is an assembly (finish bench) area. The second is where I do the fabrication (when needed) and I do not need to worry about getting sawdust all over.

 

Best of luck on your work space. Looking forward to pictures of what you end up with.

 

Cheers,

 

Tim

[Guest Tim I.]

Forgot the picture.

 

 

- Tim

[AON]

I've done a mock up of the table top

 

The table top is 32" deep x 72" long

The rotating top is 24" x 48"

 

I'm thinking simple sliding bolts to lock all motions in position.

 

working on the cabinet now

 

All image descriptions on in the image title

[AON]

So here is the last half of my first "kick at the cat" (if you are a cat lover it is just a saying... I'd never actually kick a cat,  they've been known to attack)

 

1. cabinet with doors closed (getting late so I haven't bothered with the OSHA  rated outside enclosure of the counter weight)

 

2. doors open ( I can envision a roll out cabinet of storage drawers)

   You can see the table inside

   Fluorescent lights to be mounted inside on the roof towards the front (I have three or four 48" double bulb assemblies in storage ... do you think one of these might be too much illumination?

   Electrical outlets (not shown) to be on the front of the moving table, one double outlet on each side in the short apron under the table top

  Back wall might have a long metal strip mounted on it so I can hang drawings with magnets ... might do the same on the inside of the doors

 

3. rear view of cabinet

   The counter weight is outside (pink),  one on each side to get adequate sand weight

   A cross bar on the bottom that ties them together (cable would go through the sand and secure to the bar

   Silicone can seal the cable hole

   Some guides on each side of the counterweight

   I put the counterweights on the side because if it was behind it pushed the cabinet out further, and it is out far enough right now.

 

4. side view showing cable run

   Although an engineering friend advised I need the cable run across the top from side to side... it just doesn't seem right to me.  I think it should dead end at the top front cross pulley location and not run across from side to side.  This would mean there are two individual cables, one on each side.  I will need to experiment and see for myself.

 

I just noticed a misteak ... the counterweight should be raised when the table is down!  DOH!

 

5. Iso view of cabinet and table assembly with doors and back wall removed

   In this assembly the table lifts from 23.25 inches to 40 inches above the floor

   I see it locking / adjusting in about 4 inch increments or so

 

Now I walk away from it for a while and chew on it for a bit.

I'm sure to try to simplify it some.

 

My darling wife thought I was just going to build a simple shelf type table off the wall... I thought she knew me better than that after 39 years of marriage  

Edited April 18, 2014 by AON

[rtropp]

Tim,

I noticed in your picture that you store planks vertically in tubes. I wondered if there was any chance of warping the planks over time?

 

Thanks,

Richard

[AON]

Good morning all.

 

I took the weekend to mull it all over in my mind

Being honest with myself, my mechanical designer side loves the direction I am going.

My practical side is telling me the "cabinet" is too bulky and lets face it ... ugly.

My darling wife was very nice about it all but when I discussed it with her she quietly agreed with everything I said.

I suppose she does know me very well after all, eh?

 

I like what Mike suggests and Gaetan did... practical, mobile and space saving.

Jud and Augie are correct, a table can be pulled away from the wall and walked around.  If it is not too deep (as opposed to long) it wouldn't be an issue to reach across... so I could forget the turn table idea also.

 

I cannot let go of the pivot idea as being practical and useful.

 

I have all the wood and wood glue to make a table top and frame so there is no expense for anything but the fasteners, electrical outlets, wire, ground plugs and florescent bulbs for the fixture over head.

 

It is back to the drawing board for something simple and practical.... and yes I have an idea!

 

I did find another source for a clean add on lift device (  http://www.suspa.com/us/products/table-lift-systems/movotec-industrial-systems/ ) with a distributor in Toronto (1-1/2 hours driving from me - one way) and have e-mailed them for pricing of the bolt on and corner leg power lift systems.

 

I am hoping they are reasonable.

Edited April 21, 2014 by AON

[AON]

It took some doing but I've cleaned it all up considerably and yesterday purchased a motorized hydraulic table lift kit from SUSPA out of Grand Rapids Michigan (the local distributor in Toronto had me deal directly with the supplier via e-mail).  I also purchased two locking and two non-locking casters from them.

 

I'll be cleaning up my 3D model over the weekend and will post the results,

 

Once I start building I will post some photos.

 

Thanks again for the input and I apologize if I offended anyone with the way I originally felt about the cost of the electric lifts.  Although they are not cheap they are clean and functional.  It took a while for me to see the light.  It can be tough to admit you might be wrong.  (see what I did there?)

 

BTW ... my table will have a  pivoting section.

 

Alan

Edited April 25, 2014 by AON

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Alan ,look at this rising table for watchmakers.

Depending of the precision of the work you are doing,

adjustment of the height greatly makes you job easier.

Chair height adjustment cannoy provide this.

When you will realize this, you will ask yourself why did I not use that before.

 

Also note the front of the table  with an angle very useful for somebody working with the left hand.

[AON]

Bonjour Gaetan

 

Thank you for the photos!

Every little bit helps enormously.

 

With my lower back problems leaning over or sitting for too long a period will be a problem, hence the adjustable height table top and also why I think the pivoting section will be handy.

 

Alan

[AON]

Here are four snap shots of the model I created for my movable, pivot top, walk around modelling table.

*** If anyone see something amiss please let me know ***

 

This table will adjust a full 15.7" (40 cm) in height from 29" to 44.7" (74 cm to 114 cm)

The website says the lift cylinders require a minimum load of 35 lbs (15.8 kg) on each cylinder to operate and will lift 750 lbs (340 kg) total weight

 

The darker looking table top area is stationary measuring 24" x 36" (61 cm x 91 cm)

The lighter looking table top area presently pivoted measuring 24" x 48" (61 cm x 122 cm)

The pivoting top will adjust in 5° increments from 0° (flat and level with the fixed top) to 60°

It will pivot from either the front or the back (both ways, only one shown)

I envision four simple sliding bolt pivot pins (not drawn up yet) to make this work.

 

I intend to mount a sacrificial finished 3/4" (19 mm) plywood top on top of a 3/4" (19 mm) sub-base (total top thickness 1-1/2" = 38 mm)

This means I can replace the finished top at any time via a few screws or bolts if every I need to.

 

The four rectangular cut outs at the ends of the table frame are for electrical outlet boxes

 

The underside view shows the pump/motor unit, controller box and button station

Not shown is the wiring and flexible tubing that would connect everything

The lift cylinders are mounted inside the four legs

I've left the foot pads on as the supplier (SUSPA.com) did not have caster models or dimensions on their website

Once I receive the items I can get the size of the caster and adjust my leg lengths if necessary

 

No cabinet of drawers.

I'll have to pick up a small rolling drawer cabinet later.

I'll mount my florescent light fixture overhead off the floor joists (I'll be in my basement)

 

I hope to receive the lift kit next week and start my table build in a couple weeks

Will post photos then!

 

Alan

 

[bear]

Hello

 

A must have is the" automatic flying parts catcher" . It's a cross between an NHL Champion goaly and a Frisbee catching dog,the Goaly talents for stopping a part from going off the table and the catching skills of the dog to catch the parts that get thru the first line of defence.

 

OH- and most important is the Bloodhound searching skills to find the parts that get thru the first two lines of Parts Flying Away Defence. And to find them when you need them, and not after you have scratch made a replacement part and already used it in your build.

 

I thought that I had seen the "Automatic Parts Catcher" on Youtube,but cannot find it now. Let me and all other model builders where they can get this valuable addition to the work bench.

 

The real test is for the PE parts that you cut off of the fret, they have a will to fly that is only  challanged by anEagle or Hawk!

 

 

Good luck all.

 

Keith

[AON]

FYI - two additional section views of the manual pivot

 

(let's hope nothing flies off the table my friend)

[md1400cs]

A table at which my sweetheart won't start dusting and arranging items all over the place.

 

Michael

[Ulises Victoria]

I found this design. Looks pretty neat.

 

http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/occre-workstation.html

[rtropp]

Ulises,

I like the configuration of the workstation from OCCRE. I am not enthusiastic about the tab structure they use of the parts. Also, OCCRE USA sells it for $102 US plus shipping. That gets expensive.

 

I might consider copying the design but using better joints and probably solid wood to improve on it.

I sure wish I had the CAD skills of some of our members so I could work out the component design.

 

I might just try it old school with graph paper, pencil and a ruler.

Richard

Edited April 30, 2014 by rtropp

[Mike Y]

Hm.. Modelling the tables to model the ships could be as interesting as modelling the ships themselves!

Currently designing the work bench for a living room builders. It should be nice (so there would be no need to hide it somewhere), not big (only most used tools in it, other goes to the storage shelf), but also it should have a shape allowing an easy dust cleaning. And safe from kids. 

[overdale]

One item I can't do without is a slab of granite from a refurbished kitchen. It's a piece about 20 inches square and I use it for smaller glueing operations and assembly work where I want to be sure what I'm working on is absolutely flat. 

It does get covered in glue now and again but as it's granite it's simple to scrape off everything with an old chisel and start again.

Check with worktop supplier/installers they often have offcuts lying around that they want to get rid of.

[AON]

Slab of Granite!

I've just the thing (an old pastry board) collecting dust down in the dungeon.

Great idea

Thanks

Alan

[jud]

My drafting table is made from a surplus hospital solid core door that weights about 120 pounds, one edge attached to the desk using a large piano hinge. I envisioned building a tilting mechanism using slack adjusters from truck air brakes. It has been tilted using various thickness boards shifted between the door and desk top for years now but mostly the top has just rested on a 2 X 4, if I need to change it I can. Slack Adjusters never purchased although I had a good solid design using a hand wheel to tilt the thing.

jud

[mtaylor]

Granite???  Rats... tossed the scrap we had. I'm using 1/4" glass for those perfectly flat gluing operations.

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Hi Janos

 

http://www.wiltontools.com/us/en/p/2-axis-precision-angular-vise-2-jaw-width-1-jaw-depth/11703

 

Wilton 2 axis differents jaws wide

[AON]

Hydraulic lift and casters came in today

Looked in the box and seems I got my moneys worth!

We have a big move this weekend... moving a visitor out and getting the dungeon cleared out of the storage so I'll start on my table in about a week

[AON]

Hoping to start building my table this weekend.

 

I acquired a 30” x 8 foot sheet of ¾” plywood and am now wondering if I should leave the table top at 30” or rip it down to the 24” wide I had originally planned to do.

 

I also have all the other lumber I could possibly require stock piled.

 

Picked up two lengths of ¾” Tee-rail for the table top as I’ve seen used on the forum.

Below are a few photos to christen the beginning of the build.

[AON]

Began my modeling table build this weekend but didn’t get very far with it as there are many distractions and with the fair weather comes other odd jobs (like cutting the grass which admittedly is better than shoveling snow) … and then it was mother’s day!

 

Started with the table tops.

Measured and marked off the cuts in the ¾” plywood with chalk line

One piece 24” x 36” (stationary top) and one piece 24” x 48” (pivoting top)

I did not need to cut the sub base as they were already at size

 

Made the cuts (without adding to my reflection in the photo due to the shine off the top of my head)