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Michiel

Prins Willem 1650 by Michiel - 1:50 - POB Zeeland ship from own plans

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The more I look to your model, the more it's interesting!

What's the key that appears behind the mainmast?

 

Cheers

Alex

Edited by Foremast

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thanks guys,

 

The keys operate a switch for the lights. I will hide one in the capstan, the switch is placed exactly at that postition. Than, in the end lights can be switched on and of by turning the capstan.

 

Best,

Michiel

Edited by Michiel

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thanks guys,

 

The keys operate a switch for the lights. I will hide one in the capstan, the switch is placed exactly at that postition. Than, in the end lights can be switched on and of by turning it.

 

Best,

Michiel

 

A capstan-lighter? Wow! Great idea

 

Cheers

Alex

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Over the weekend I finished two more hatches and the cover for the main hatch:

 

overloop7.jpg

 

 

I also made the piece of wood on which the capstan rests. The key from the previous picture is reshaped to fit later on in the capstan. Three more rows of nails to go.....

 

Best,

Michiel

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Hello Michiel, :)

 

I just stumbled upon your build log - wow very impressive, especially the lighting system - I use that type of lights for my 1;35th scale bunker models. I am very fond of the famous Atlantic Wall, and have built some scale model bunkers.

I shall follow this log from now on.

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Hi Paul,

 

Thanks, If you're ever doing a tour on the Atlantic wall drop me a note. I have an uncle that is active in a club that tries to keep bunkers in tack and is also restoring some. They have a few around Vlissingen fully equipped again.

 

Best,

Michiel

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and the final piece of the deck finished

 

overloop8.jpg

 

 

I also finished the two pipes for draining water from this deck:

 

overloop8a.jpg

hull18a.jpg

 

Next the ports for the anker cables are on. On this scale the actual different sizes will show so I'll need to drill 4 different sizes..

 

Best,

Michiel

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Thanks Sherry,

 

Here's some more:

 

in total there will be 5 ankers of different sizes and, related different rope strengths. Three on port and 2 on starboard.

 

hull19c.jpg

 

And as can be seen here already I started making the iron bolds:

 

hull19a.jpg

 

hull19b.jpg

 

Any guess what they are made from? ;)

 

cheers,

Michiel

Edited by Michiel

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It's realy practical, just drill a hole widen the opening a bit, bit of glue and one soft hit with a wooden hammer. so that only a simi spher ends up on th outside. the most time consuming is finding the brush with the right size of tips.

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Michiel,

Great work on the planking and scuppers.  I like the hairbrush tips idea for bolts.

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thanks,

 

yes, I cut strips from a sheet of brass with a metal cutter. The end is rolled with an round ended pincer. The pieces connected to the ship itself are made the same but there a piece of brass wire is soldered in and the end is filed to a sharp point so it can be driven in a hole drilled with a 0.8 mm drill.

 

Best,

Michiel

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In the meanwhile I build myself a rope-walk. A hanging model with six hooks.

 

twijntoestel.jpg

 

twijntoestel2.jpg

 

It is run by a power drill. The first tests worked fine, and now I started making real rope. I'm using DMC Cordonnet special numbers 20, 60 and 100. It comes of the roll right handed but the stands turn easily. Left handed strands can be made in to right handed ropes, which can be turned into left handed cables. On the dutch ships of this era all ropes are right handed,  the anker cables left handed. (ropes consist of 3 strands cables of more than 3 ropes) Here are two ropes:

 

poorttouw2.jpg

 

The rope on the port lid is made from 3 single strands of Nr 100 (3x1x100), ~0.4 mm, the thinnest I can make. The lower one is 3x1x20 ~0.8 mm it will probably turn into gun rigging. Next to do rope wise is turning some even thicker ropes like 3x3x20 and combining them in foures into lefthanded cables for the ankers. (the super macro always shows those < 0.05 mm details :-( I'll have to work on that a bit)

 

Best,

Michiel

Edited by Michiel

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The work on the port lids slowly progresses. Partly beacause of other occupations an partly because they are made piece by piece to fit the specific port and each of them contains ~30 pieces..

 

The nails for connecting the hinges to the lids also arived. It turned out they spend some weeks at customs in Hamburg ...

 

poortluiken4.jpg

 

 

 

poortluiken5.jpg

 

and the overview:

 

poortluiken6.jpg

 

5 finished, two in in part ready, 25 to go...

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Thanks guys,

 

 

Janos,

 

I have at the moment 100 60 and 20 ecru cordonnet speciale. All three are right handed. As long as I make a 3x1 wire I just turn them so long that they become left handed. Until now I did not break any during the process. I use as little weight as possible, to make flexible tropes. Due to the scalings in wieght and flexibility its so hard to make ropes behave naturally on scale...  The ropes on the gun port lits are 3x1xnr100. For me that becomes thin enough for the thinnest work. Could you post some example pictures on you coloring? I'm really interested. I'll also stick to ecru now for the running material. But the standing rigging needs to be colored.

 

Michiel

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