how to work with teeny blocks???

[Lucius Molchany]

Put the block in a 3rd hand alligaror clip.Then you wrap the rope around it and tie it off,Cannot slip off that way.

[jdbradford]

Figured it out.

 

Man, this thing is a lifesaver. Thanks for the great idea.

Where did you end up getting this from?

 

Jeff

 

nvm, I see where you posted that you got it.  thanks

Edited October 27, 2015 by jdbradford

[pompey2]

I use a little jig I made that holds and tensions the lines.

I form a loop around an old deadeye and serve a half dozen turns.

Take it out of the jig, use tweezers to hold the block in the loop and pull the ends to tighten the loop.

Brush with 50/50 PVA and trim when dry.

 

Nick

[rtropp]

Nick,

do you have pictures of your jig?

Richard

[pompey2]

I have often thought to add some pictures here, I use it all the time.

I will see what I can scare up and post it here.

 

Nick

[John Allen]

The last moniker for me is experienced, I found the easiest way to attach to all blocks any size  is as people have said is the ca in the groove but I also hope it may be useful to someone.use a slip knot saves the 2nd step of tying an overhand knot. 

 

My 2 cents was perusing the site.

 

Looking forward to the finish

 

John

[pompey2]

Richard
This is the Jig I use.
It is good for blocks, dead eyes, rigging hooks, eyes and just loops.
I clamp the base to the desk.

Then use a modified clothes peg, push a long pin through holes in the peg and the hole in the block.

Then the peg fits into the base. There is a 'dowel' on the peg and a hole for the pin.

Thread is fed through around the block, caught with a clip and an elastic band tensions the thread.

I then seize the number of turns I want using the traditional ‘trapped loop’ method.

I pull the end of the thread through the loop and pull out the loop. Push the siezing up tight to the block.

Take out of jig, paint with 50/50 PVA and trim when dry.

 

I'm sure some will think this overkill.

But I have done hundreds of blocks (even the smallest of sizes), loops, eyes etc. so have gotten pretty slick.

And I love the way the it looks.

 

Nick

Edited November 4, 2015 by pompey2

[bhermann]

Richard

This is the Jig I use.

It is good for blocks, dead eyes, rigging hooks, eyes and just loops...

And I love the way the it looks.

 

Nick

Nick - thanks for sharing this, and for the clear explanation and photos on how it works.  I think it looks pretty nice, too!!

 

Bob

[DBorgens]

Nick,

I will second Bob's comment. It will be a while before I have any rigging but will certainly save your method.

Thank you for the how to.

 

Dave B

[src]

I then seize the number of turns I want using the traditional ‘trapped loop’ method.

 

I'm sure some will think this overkill.

But I have done hundreds of blocks (even the smallest of sizes), loops, eyes etc. so have gotten pretty slick.

And I love the way the it looks.

 

Nick

Nick,

"Trapped Loop?" is that the same basic method Jay showed in his video?

Sam

[pompey2]

Hi Sam

 

yeah it's exactly that.

 

Nick

[src]

Thought so, thanks.

sam

[mischief]

 I totally agree with you about Ca on rigging

[Joe Schnugg]

I am working with some extraordinarily small wooden rigging blocks on my current project. In reading some of the stories enclosed, I was hoping to find the “magical method” which more experienced modelers have found. And hence, I find there is none! The only viable solution I find is to open the holes larger than what they are and appreciably larger than the rigging line itself. I am going to attempt to apply CA glue, or Crazy Glue in my world, to the end of the rigging thread, not to distort the configuration of the thread, and then rig my blocks. When I’m done doing this, I can eliminate the glued end of the thread. What amount of thread to allow for any segment of the rigging process is obviously an experienced call. A lighted magnifying lens could assist in the process. Fortunately, my glasses suffice. Would love to hear back on my analogy. Thanx!

[kurtvd19]

I suggest you apply CA to the end of the line and while it is still wet use your fingers to taper the end of the line - just apply pressure to the line and draw the line between your fingers.  This is often adequate but you can also try to cut the end of the line at an angle after the CA is applied.  A sharp blade is necessary.  I usually cut the line at an angle.

[GaryJoe]

I am working on artesania Latina Endeavour. My first build. I drilled  0.8 mm hole in each of the ca. 300 blocks, per instructions. I have put  'fine' tan thread more or less in the groove of several used in the steering assembly. Now I must thread this same thread through the 6 blocks. I do not know how to do this as the thread is greater diameter than 0.8 mm hole. Please help. Thanks. 

[allanyed]

Hi Gary

Welcome to MSW!!!    It would be very nice if you would please post a little intro about yourself in the new member forum.  Please consider starting a build log as it will bring a lot of viewers and help if you wish to have it.

 

In general, one of the most popular methods of threading rope through a block is to wet maybe a quarter inch or even half inch of the end of the rope with cyanoacrylate glue (liquid, not gel) then when cured, using a scalpel or even nail clippers, snip off a tiny piece of this stiffened portion, cutting on a bias, to create a point on what is now a needle of sorts.

 

I realize this is your first build, but it is good to start with good habits and have useful information so I hope the following is not unwelcome.  It sounds like the rope is too large or the hole in the block is too small in diameter.   There were dozens of rope sizes on a given ship, but for modeling purposes 6 to 8 usually suffice for most folks.  There are spread sheets by Danny Vadas available in the articles data base here at MSW that will give you every rope size of a wide range of British ship sizes and eras.  Typically the circumference of the rope was 0.25 the size (length) of the respective common blocks.   (Lees' Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 189)  Tiller rope was 0.25 the size of the main stay and the circumference of the main stay was 1/2 the diameter of the main mast. Note that rope sizes were given in circumference, not diameter, so you will have to convert when getting properly sized rope if you do not have any.  The use of miniature rope in place of some, not all,  kit supplied thread (which often looks nothing like rope,) will enhance your model a lot.  

 

Allan

[Roger Pellett]

In the “Closest enough for Government Work” category, just divide the circumference by three to convert to diameter.

[catopower]

As Allan suggests, I would try the CA glue on the thread end, turning the end into a needle. 

 

He also makes a good point about rigging sizes. Artesania Latina is well known for providing rigging line that's too large in diameter.

 

However, if you need to use it, then you might also try a needle threader. This is a simple, age old tool, used in sewing. You used to be able to buy these for 25 cents each at the corner drug store. Today, you pretty much have to get them in packages of 3 or more from Joann Fabrics or any other store that carries sewing supplies.

 

 

Just pinch the fine wire end through the hole in the block, run the line through the wire loop, and pull the line back through the hole in the block. Artesania Latina line is usually very soft and puffy. It should squeeze down to fit through the hole in the block, even doubled over.

 

Hope that helps!

Clare

[allanyed]

7 hours ago, catopower said:

Artesania Latina line is usually very soft and puffy. It should squeeze down to fit through the hole in the block, even doubled over.

Very good point about the line size.  If you can squeeze double the line through the holes in the blocks the line is twice the circumference that it should be.  In general most builders find that undersize is better looking than over size on ship models.    

Allan