Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm trying to cut some hull planks out of cherry. I have tightened down the rip fence to get the width I want, but when I feed a strip of cherry to thin the width the strip begins to be squeezed to the point I cannot push it further. When using a .30 Thurston blade, the blade would literally be bent outward if I tried to force it a bit. When going up to the .40,  the strip pinches down so tight I can go no further. The cherry is around 1/8th of an inch in width.

 

I gotta be doing something wrong. Any advice?

Posted

I have no working knowledge of the Byrnes Saw.. ok, that's the disclaimer but I had a similar issue on a different brand.

 

Is the fence on straight to the blade? 

 

Is the wood going under the fence?  Some folks have glue a piece of wood so it's flush to the table.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

Hi Bigcreek,

 

At first blush I would think you are adding pressure into the side of the blade.

This usually happens when you are pushing stock through the saw with pressure added past the leading edge of the blade.  

The reason people do this is to keep the stock tight against the fence, but in essence you are pressing (or pinching) the stock into the blade.

The following link has lots of good ideas for using the saw: http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php

 

Another possibility is that the wood has a strong counter grain and would be better cut from the other end of the sheet.

 

-Todd

Current build US Brig Syren

Posted

Hi Bigcreekdad, I am guessing that you have your strip against the fence - as you advance your plank, the strip gets stuck between the saw and the fence? The solution is to have the wide part of your plank against the fence so that the ripped strip falls freely away (i.e. the opposite of what you are doing). This is Bill Sorensen's table saw guide: 

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/MillingScaleLumberRev-01%20(1).pdf

 

He describes your problem and a work-around on page 13. On page 17-20 there is another example of how to rip thin strips without experiencing the problem you describe. 

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

Posted

I might be off the mark here, and without a pic of the piece you're trying to cut, there's no way to be sure, but it sounds like you're trying to run an already cut strip through the saw to shave it a bit. It might just be too small to work with. Have you tried just cutting a new piece?

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

Posted

Here you go this should help you out......

 

hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php

 

 

mario

Thank You all...

 

Mario

 

 

:piratetongueor4:  :piratetongueor4:

"Each of us is a mixture of some good and some not so good qualities. In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things ... We should refrain from making judgments just because a fella happens to be a dirty, rotten SOB(biscuit) ;) "

 

 

 

My Builds....

 

BETTEAU WAR OF 1812     BOUNTY LAUNCH(bashed)    CHESAPEAKE BAY FLATTIE

 

THE SEA of GALILEE BOAT   VICTORIAN STEAM LAUNCH(bashed)    HOWARD CHAPELLE's CRABBING SKIFF

 

LADY KATHRINE 1812 SCHOONER

Posted

Sounds to me like your fence is not truly parrallel to the blade. Try finding a tune up guide for your saw.  BILL

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren

Posted

Another thing I found that helps is to make sure the blade is not too high. I usually keep my blade set just 1/8" higher than the wood I'm cutting.

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

Posted

One other concept from Keith that some of us using is an offset on the fence such that it ends just past the front of the blade.  Some use wood, some use metal.  Here's pics of what I use and with the right blade, I can strip off 1/32" strips

post-76-0-04502200-1420508696_thumb.jpgpost-76-0-98486100-1420508701_thumb.jpgpost-76-0-51342300-1420508707_thumb.jpgpost-76-0-74470800-1420508712_thumb.jpg:

 

 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted (edited)

Hi Bigcreekdad,

 

The problem you are experiencing is blade binding and is a common issue - you're not doing anything wrong per se. The issue is caused mainly because these thin slitting blades are a uniform thickness - that is, the teeth are the same width as the body of the blade, which means that the teeth don't give you any extra clearance from the blade once they've cut the wood. (Hope that makes sense).

 

There are essentially two solutions available.

 

The first is to add an additional fence that extends from the front of the table to around the centre of the blade (or just short), as in Mark Taylor's description above. This gives the cut strip some extra space after passing through the blade. This is what I did and it works pretty well most of the time. I still had some trouble ripping 1/4" stock.

 

The second solution is to add some "back taper" to your fence. To do this, lock the front of the fence in position, and then push the rear of the fence away from the blade slightly before tightening and locking in place. This will take a little trial and error to get the amount of back taper just right, and may need a little adjustment to get the desired milled width. Once again, this is giving the cut strip that little extra space. I know that this is the method that Jeff Hayes of HobbyMill uses (used) for all of his production runs.

 

The other thing to watch for, and has already been mentioned, is the run of the grain. Sometimes just flipping the stock over and cutting from the other end helps.

 

Hope this helps.

 

PS

 

One extra thought. If none of the above work for you, try going back to the 4" carbide tipped blade. It is more wasteful in that it cuts with a wider kerf, but because of the wider teeth in relation to the blade body, you shouldn't experience the binding problem.

Edited by gjdale
Posted

I had a similar problem with my Preac saw, even though the fence and blade were as parallel as I could see. Similarly to what others have done in previous posts, I put a piece of tape on the edge of the fence where the wood would contact the fence, and ended the tape before the center of the blade. This gives a bit of room for the cut piece to bend away from the blade soon after it is cut and doesn't bind anymore. You don't need much room, the thickness of the tape was enough. Also, try rubbing a thin layer of beeswax on the spinning blade to lubricate it.

From about as far from the ocean as you can get in North America!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...