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double planking a hull


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Greetings pug...

 

I see no advantage. Plus, the added hull thickness of the second planking layer may bugger other aspects of the overall model design. As was pointed out, much of the lower hull will be cooper plated, so any "irregularities" will be covered up. There is nothing wrong or substandard about a single layer of planking. In fact real wooden ships typically had a single layer of planking. Why screw with it?

 

wq3296

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So why do so many boat kits insist on double planking ?

Current build : Gorch Fock Occre

 

Completed non-boat build 1/16 Model expo Sopwith Camel - in shore leave.

Previous boat builds:

Amerigo Vespucci Occre

Yacht Mary

Artesania Latina Red Dragon (Modified)

Non-boat build 1/24 scale Dennis bus by OcCre - in shore leave.

Mare Nostrum (modified)  Amati Oseberg (modified)  Chaperon sternwheel steamer 1884   Constructo Lady Smith kit/scratch build   

OcCre Santisima Trinidad Cross Section 

Constructo Robert E Lee Paddle Steamer  Constructo Louise, steam powered river boat   OcCre Bounty with cutaway hull 

Corel Scotland Baltic Ketch (not on MSW) OcCre Spirit of Mississippi paddle steamer (not on MSW)

In the Gallery:
 Mare Nostrum   Oesberg  Constructo Lady Smith   Constructo Robert E Lee   Constructo Louise   OcCre Bounty   OcCre Spirit of Mississippi

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Based on my personal experience, it may be because kit makers provide absolutely no instructions on planking ... meaning complete newbs will end up with a first planking run which roughly resembles a dog's breakfast.

 

The second planking, usually with veneer strips (or copper plates), will look a lot better.

Edited by CaptainSteve

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

My BathTub:    Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models)       Log:  Queen Anne Barge (an build log)

                        Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)                 Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve
                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)
                        HMS Victory (Constructo)
Check It Out:   The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy

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So why do so many boat kits insist on double planking ?

Many  builders want a POB look with individual planks visible, but most double planked kits have too big a span between bulkheads to be easily single planked. Double planking also offers those that prefer a "second chance" to rectify errors on the first planking. 

Joe Volz

 

 

Current build:

Model Shipways "Benjamin W. Latham"

 

 

Completed  builds on MSW:

Caldercraft HMS "Cruizer   Caldercraft HMBV "Granado"   Model Shipways "Prince De Neufchatel"

 

 

 

 

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The second layer of planks is to cover all the mistakes you'll make on the first layer. On my second build....I took my time with the first layer and did not need the veneer. Good luck!

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In most POB kits, the spacing of the body moulds are too far apart to support a thin single run of planking.  A first layer of what looks to be poor quality wood (open pore, course grain, easy to splinter) is supposed to provide what is essentially a simulation of a solid hull to receive the layer of outer planking.  Even with this, it would be useful to glue laminations of veneer to the inside of the first layer (perpendicular to the run of planking)(at a scale width of 6-12 inches)(laminate in place) to receive the treenails of the actual planking. Before the mid 17th century (at least) the futtocks were fit to the inside of the planking instead of the reverse later.

 

If you wish a single layer:

the actual planks would probably need to be thicker than what is provided.

the space between the moulds should have support material (at the least 50% wood with the open space not wide).

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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All of the above are excellent reasons for using the recommended double layer of planking on your first (and maybe even more builds after that!!) Hull planking is a skill that, in my opinion, takes a lot of practise to perfect. I sometimes wonder how many half planked HMS Victory's are out there in hobby land because a beginner became frustrated and lost interest. I am still learning tricks when planking even after 10 builds!!!! Although I have seen many excellent 'first attempts' on this forum, I think you should take very opportunity to practise. This means having a go at double planking. .

Hornet

 

Current Build: - OcCre Shackleton’s Endurance. 

 

Completed Ship Builds:

                                     Caldercraft - HM Bark Endeavour. (in Gallery)

                                    Caldercraft  - HMAV Bounty (in Gallery)

                                     Caldercraft - HM Brig Supply (In Gallery)

                                     Aeropiccola - Golden Hind

                                                        - Constitution

                                     Clipper Seawitch (maker unknown - too long ago to remember!)

                                     Corel - Victory

                                     Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery

                                                                      - Brig `Perseverance' - In Gallery

                                                                      - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery

                                                                      - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery

                                                                      - Sloop Norfolk - In Gallery

                                      Completed Cannon:   - French 18th Century Naval Cannon

                                                                      - Napoleonic 12 pound field piece

                                                                      - English 18th Century Carronade

                                       Non Ship Builds - Sopwith Camel - Artesania Latina

                                                                   - Fokker DR1 - Artesania Latina

                                               

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi pugman11, I was not considering a second planking of my build of the America (Americas Cup 1851) from Constructo as I felt I did a decent job of the first planking. In fact, I was ready to just move on to the water line and paint. Then I was reading up in Ship Modeling Simplified that to do a second planking, and make it possibly look better, apply some modelers paste, allow it to dry, sand smooth, then use an electric plank bender along with carpenters and acc glue to apply the second plank members. I decided to do the second planking, and purchased some Liquitex modeling paste as recommended by the book. I applied and let dry. Sanded smooth, and now I am second guessing my decision. The modeling paste is white, and now I'm afraid if my second planking layer isn't perfect I will see white first planking between the second planking stripes.

I'm kinda at a loss here. Has anyone ever used the modeling paste before applying the second layer of planking? There is nothing in the instructions concerning the second layer. I guess they put it in the kit as a value add thing or something, but no instructions on what to do with it.

I guess if it all goes wrong, I can hack it into some kind of cargo plane with mast and rigging.

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The pic is my second hull, single plank.  This is Lexington, from the Lumberyard's timbering set, to go with the series in Ships in Scale.  The bulkheads are fairly close together.  The dark strakes are ebony, the port strakes are swiss pear, below the wale is boxwood.  There was a little plank separation because of humidity issues, it looks better now that time and matte varnish have had a chance to work.

 

post-17589-0-25344200-1423016447_thumb.jpg

 

You have to be patient, there are books you can get to give you some step-by-step.

 

Joel Sanborn

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Cricket,

 

The simple answer is stain or paint the filler (test and re-test on scrap before doing the actual model).  This will help hide any planking errors.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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From my small experience... second veneer layer allow you to make planks more narrow and to be more in scale than planks from first layer

Edited by Nenad M

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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  • 9 months later...

Jbshan, you mention `plank separation' in your post regarding single layer of planking. My first build (over 30 years ago) was the Aeropiccola `Golden Hind.' It was single planked. The book `Period Model Boat Manual' which I bought at the time (don't know if it is still in print or not) recommended `caulking ' the inside of the hull to prevent this happening. This was done by layering bandage dressing `gauze' into the interior of the hull and coating with thinned wood glue. It was a similar method to fibreglassing.  I used the method and after 30 years still no cracking or plank separation. See pics below. :)

 

post-1505-0-52815900-1448067101_thumb.jpg

 

extract from `Period Model Boat Manual'

 

post-1505-0-97339000-1448067177_thumb.jpg

 

Hull of the `Golden Hind' 33 years after construction (no plank separation)

 

 

Hornet

 

Current Build: - OcCre Shackleton’s Endurance. 

 

Completed Ship Builds:

                                     Caldercraft - HM Bark Endeavour. (in Gallery)

                                    Caldercraft  - HMAV Bounty (in Gallery)

                                     Caldercraft - HM Brig Supply (In Gallery)

                                     Aeropiccola - Golden Hind

                                                        - Constitution

                                     Clipper Seawitch (maker unknown - too long ago to remember!)

                                     Corel - Victory

                                     Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery

                                                                      - Brig `Perseverance' - In Gallery

                                                                      - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery

                                                                      - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery

                                                                      - Sloop Norfolk - In Gallery

                                      Completed Cannon:   - French 18th Century Naval Cannon

                                                                      - Napoleonic 12 pound field piece

                                                                      - English 18th Century Carronade

                                       Non Ship Builds - Sopwith Camel - Artesania Latina

                                                                   - Fokker DR1 - Artesania Latina

                                               

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