Rattlesnake by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - American Privateer

[DocBlake]

Nice work on the beams and carriages,  I love the redheart!

[KenW]

Thanks Martin and Dave.  We have to keep using the redheart so Jason and Crown Timberyard will keep a supply in stock.

Cheers.

[BANYAN]

Just found your build log Ken; coming along nicely.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[JSGerson]

It's been a while since I last check in on you. Your model looking good. I thought I should point out to be careful about your gun port doors. I would have recommended that you install those at the last convenient point your could. I had all but one of my doors knock off during routine handling of the model. I won't put them back on till I feel I won't knock them off again or if I feel putting them on later would be harder.

[Martin W]

I'll second Jon's warning.  I think I knocked the lids off my gunports at least half a dozen times.

 

You might take a look at Landlubber Mike's log on Pegasus, since he's also using redheart.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[KenW]

Thanks Martin and 'jsgerson'.  And you are right!  I had installed the aft 6 gun port doors, and have already knocked them about.  They are off now.

Building is a learning process, and part of that is learning when to do things.

And I will check out Lanlubber Mike's log.

[Burroak]

Ken your off to a great start. Hope it's not too late for a front row seat.

 

Greg

[KenW]

Still working my way back toward the stern; I made the bulkhead partition leading to the officer’s quarters.  I decided that the actual doorways should be a different color.  In actuality, the entire partition would probably have been painted red.  But I like the way it looks – except for that little nick on the left door.  I’m going to have to do something with that.

 

[augie]

I like the contrasts.  Maybe a thin kick plate to cover the ding.  I know it's probably not 'authentic'.  Or maybe some filler given some light stain coat(s)?

[KenW]

Hey Augie.  Thanks.

My son actually likes the nick.  He thinks it makes the door look like a 'real door'.

Anyway, I really hope you're feeling well and had a Happy Birthday.

Cheers.

[JSGerson]

Don't worry about the nick...in the end you won't see it. As a matter of fact you won't see most the this partition due to lack of light and and the conjestion when the model is done. I put a lot of effort to make my partition look nice, but I can barely see it now.

[KenW]

Hey JS. Yeah, you are probably right. Looking at your model, and others, it does look crowded by the main mast.

It was fun anyway.

Cheers.

[fish]

Do you know of anyone who has done the Hunt kit bash using the MS kit? I've heard it can be done but I'm wondering how difficult it would be over using the mamoli kit?

[src]

Ken,

That looks really good, I too like the contrast. The others who have built this are right I am sure, you will never notice the nick. If you think it may bother you in the future though, fix it now, maybe just a light dab? Even if its darker it will tend to fade away. Either way, it looks great.

Sam

[Martin W]

Hey Ken -- Macro photography always shows up those details that you wish could stay invisible.  What that means is that folks on MSW will see more nicks & dings than are visible in real life.     I think if it nags at you, though, you could put a bit of wood filler in.  Anyway, that bulkhead does look good -- I especially like the slats in the center panels, and the details of the hinges & knobs.  Well done.

 

Fish -- You can build the MS kit with Bob Hunt's practicum.  MS has much, much more detailed plans that Mamoli builders always end up buying anyway.  And since that practicum is a major kit bash, you'll be making most the parts yourself.  (Sorry Ken, don't want to clog up your build talking to somebody else, so I won't go on any more).

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[KenW]

I modified the canon rigging to more closely match the rigging on the USS Constitution.  I attach a photo of one of her cannonades for a reference.   It’s hard to see, but I carved a quoin handle, as well.  I also filled that nick on the bulkhead partition with Elmer’s Wood Filler.  I don’t have a photo of that, but it looks a lot better (even if no one will be able to actually see it).

 

 

[JSGerson]

Very nicely done!

[augie]

Nice and neat!

[KenW]

Thanks JS and Augie.

I do get kind of crazy sometimes.

Cheers.

[Burroak]

Ken great job as always

 

Greg

[KenW]

I’ve been working on the stern.  I didn’t like the look of the swiss pear.  I wanted more of a contrast with the boxwood.  So I removed the pear planks and replaced them with walnut.  The walnut is much darker and I like the color.  In the process, I re-did the ‘openings’ for the stern windows, I re-painted the windows, AND I re-printed the name on the stern.  All in all, I’m pleased with the all of the results.

 

 

I added the beams for the quarter deck as well as spare wood to support the opening for the stairs for the officers.  The stairs were built and added.  After a few tries, I think the stairs came out O.K. (even though I had to use swiss pear to get the size of the sides and steps right).  The color is not so important here.

 

 

[KenW]

I’m in the process of installing the remaining guns on the main deck and anything needed for the rigging (eyebolts, etc.).  While going over the plans, I have a question.  The rigging plan for the MS kit has a diagram of the Fore Lower Yard & Attachments.  It states that the yard’s lift “leads thro sheave in the kevel abreast mast and belays on its cleat”.  It also states that the “Main & Crossjack Yards Similar”.  The problem is that there are no kevels on the plans abreast the main or crossjack masts.  In fact, immediately abreast of the main mast there is a gun and the fixed gangway.  There are three kevels on the inner bulwarks along the quarter deck, but each one already has a line belayed to it.  My solution would be to add two more kevels, as close to being abreast of the masts as possible on the inner bulwarks of the quarter deck.  Does that seem right?  I’d appreciate some input.

Thanks.

[shipmodel]

Hi Ken - 

 

Belaying was always somewhat flexible and could be changed at the discretion of the captain.  So if you want to add kevils, that would not be an inconsistent thing to do.

 

That said, I have rarely seen a lot of kevils on a ship this small.  For what it is worth, Lees has a belaying chart for a Frigate of about 1810 which gives the belaying point for the fore yard lift as being "Fore jeer bitts".  The main yard lift goes to the "Second pin of the main pin rail".  The crossjack yard only has a truss pendant and braces, since it did not move up and down.

 

The model of the Rattlesnake by William Hitchcock, which I have seen a few photos of, has pinrails and shroud cleats, although there could be some kevils which are not in view.

 

Your ship, captain.  Your choice.

 

Dan

[JSGerson]

I am building the Mamoli version of the Rattlesnake and am just beginning the running rigging, so your question peaked my immediate interest. According to the MS plans (of which I have a copy) there are only 3 Kevels per side on the Poop deck and none abreast of the main mast. That would be just about impossible with the gang plank at the waist. I looked at the Mamoli plans and at first glance, they confirmed what was shown on the MS plans…except for one sheet (No. 3) which I have reproduced below. I have marked with blue arrows the location of the kevels. The one circled in red is a forth kevel not shown on the other sheets. I believe that is the one you need. I have not installed this one on my model because until now, I didn’t know that it existed or that I even needed it. I hope this helps

[KenW]

Thanks for your help Dan and JS.

JS:  That fourth kevel is a definite solution to part of the problem.

Don - It's interesting that you mention that the crossjack yard may not have lifts at all. 

In any case, I will keep a lookout for any cleat, etc., that are unused.  I did a quick look at the MS rigging plan and I can't find anything being delayed to the foremost lower mizzen shroud cleat.  So that may be a possibility.

Thanks again to both of you for your help.

Edited December 3, 2015 by KenW

[Martin W]

Hi Ken -- I finished my Rattlesnake about a year and a half ago, and recall that the 4th kevel that Jon points out caused me some headache.  Like you guys, I didn't spot it on the plans till late, and then had to set it in when I'd already created plenty of obstacles.  It ends up that some lines only look right if they're belayed there.  So if I were you, I'd bite the bullet and put one in.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[KenW]

Thanks Martin.  I had already come to that conclusion.  I still don't feel right adding a fifth kevel, however.  I may have to double up on a couple of mizzen shroud cleats. 

Cheers.

[KenW]

Thanks for the help on the rigging problem.  Fortunately, I have plenty of time before I have to make a final decision.  Meanwhile I’m continuing with additions to the hull.  So far I’ve added four more guns (only 4 more to go).  I also made all the furniture for the gun deck.  I re-did the pumps; the old ones were too big and I changed the position of the handles so those doors will open.  I didn’t have all the correct widths of red heart, so I did some laminating to create 5/32 square strips for the riding bits and 1/8 x 5/32 strips for the cross pieces of the gallows bits (the curvy pieces).  Please note that neither the furniture nor the lower masts are glued in place so the placement angles are off.  I made the lower masts so I could have them in place (unglued) when I plank the forecastle and quarter decks.  I actually think the model is starting to look like a real boat. 

 

 

 

[Stuntflyer]

Looking really good Ken. . I'm looking forward to seeing it a one of our meetings.

 

Mike

[KenW]

Thanks Mike.  I plan on bringing it to the January meeting.

Cheers.

 

Happy Holidays to all!!