bigcreekdad Posted February 22, 2015 Share #1 Posted February 22, 2015 I'm cutting 3/16 apple for my Triton cross section build. I've got the blade pretty tight, but it seems to bend a bit as I'm pushing the wood through. Is this normal? Different blade? Too much effort on my part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justsayrow Posted February 22, 2015 Share #2 Posted February 22, 2015 BCD, What's the teeth per inch on yr blades? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 22, 2015 Share #3 Posted February 22, 2015 BCD, Where I see the bending is when I'm trying to feed to fast and/or the blade dulled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted February 23, 2015 Share #4 Posted February 23, 2015 If this works similar to a band saw, then the thicker the wood being cut - the fewer TIP the blade cutting it should have. When the gullet of a tooth gets filled, it cannot cut anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted February 23, 2015 Share #5 Posted February 23, 2015 Three teeth in the work at a time is a good rule of thumb. I suspect you are using too fine a blade and/or trying to feed too rapidly. jud and Trussben 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chasseur Posted February 23, 2015 Share #6 Posted February 23, 2015 I have an el cheapo Delta scroll saw that I have owned for almost 20 years and I get the same sort of outcome your experiencing basically blade deflection. You also have to be careful how tight you set your blade as well otherwise she'll snap! One thing I found which might help you is the use of the spiral blades you can buy. These blades allow tight turns and the trick is to go slow and not force it. Another thing if you have the patience is to do the old "Woodright Trick" and make up a miniature coping saw that will take scroll saw blades. Sure it's not as fast but you get the real feel of the wood as you cut it. The trick with any hand saw is let the blade do the work and never force it. I knew a carpenter who could cut 3/4" plywood with a hand saw better than any guy with a skill saw. I marveled at how he was so accurate. He said it's all in the wrist action, speed of stroke, know your wood, and of course a sharp saw. Try the spiral blades they work well! Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dziadeczek Posted February 23, 2015 Share #7 Posted February 23, 2015 This is normal. Try to be a bit gentler with pushing the wood and let the blade do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modeler12 Posted February 23, 2015 Share #8 Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) I made a 'guide' for the blade as shown below. The table also has a thin sheet of plywood for an almost zero clearance blade path. The first picture was my first try, the second is a wooden block bolted to the foot. Edited February 23, 2015 by Modeler12 dgbot, GuntherMT and Tadeusz43 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted February 23, 2015 Share #9 Posted February 23, 2015 It is not cheap, but you could used a Cool Block that is rectangular instead of wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reklein Posted February 23, 2015 Share #10 Posted February 23, 2015 Maybe a faster blade speed along with fewer teeth. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigcreekdad Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share #11 Posted February 23, 2015 for those who asked, the blade I am using has around 16 teeth per inch. Too many?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chasseur Posted February 24, 2015 Share #12 Posted February 24, 2015 Not really my chart says 20 TPI for hard/soft wood 1/8" thickness or more. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGraham Posted February 24, 2015 Share #13 Posted February 24, 2015 I like Jay's homemade blade guide/thrust bearings. Those are a great idea. Here's how they did that on my old Walker Turner. Steve tasmanian, Modeler12 and Chasseur 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiKri Posted February 24, 2015 Share #14 Posted February 24, 2015 Here is a link to a forum where you can find plenty of information about scrolling: http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modeler12 Posted February 25, 2015 Share #15 Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) Jaager, in order to use 'cool blocks' you still have to install the holder and make fine adjustments to make sure the cutting teeth don' touch the teeth. In my case it does not matter. If the teeth cut into the wooden block too much I can replace the block, but it does not damage the blade. In fact, for very small blades it almost becomes a fact As far as 'cool' is concerned, for me it has not been a problem either. I don't use the saw that much, but if I were to go on and on, smoke will tell me when to stop (and put another blade and back stop in place). To install this guide takes a bit of work. I ended up drilling and tapping two #4-40 threads into the foot and make the wooden block with a slot so I can adjust the for-aft position for the blade to clear. Once I was satisfied, I made several for easy replacements. DiKri, the way I read this new forum you mentioned, it wants you to join and then pay for what ever info you want. Perhaps I am wrong about reading the first page. Do you suppose that my idea could be worth something with those members Edited February 25, 2015 by Modeler12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 25, 2015 Share #16 Posted February 25, 2015 If you'd rather have something in hand.... here's a good reference form ScrollSaw. I have one and it's been a big help. http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/big-book-of-scroll-saw-woodworking-scroll-saw-woodworking-crafts-editors/1111756500?ean=9781565234260 There seems to be several versions but the only difference I can see is the cover as all of them are copyright 2009. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted February 25, 2015 Share #17 Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) Jay, I was looking at your 2nd example and envisioning the top middle block as being an epoxyed Cool Block to reduce friction, instead of what looks like Ebony. The color is close to Cool Block color. Edited February 25, 2015 by Jaager Modeler12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modeler12 Posted February 25, 2015 Share #18 Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) Jay, I was looking at your 2nd example and envisioning the top middle block as being an epoxyed Cool Block to reduce friction, instead of what looks like Ebony. The color is close to Cool Block color. What I did was to paint the block with some black spray paint. The first attempt worked fine (it was held in place with some double backed tape), but the color of the oak was distracting, so I 'blackened' it. The whole piece is oak. PS. The whole idea was mine, No copy rights involved as far as I am concerned. I even have my little drawing of the block if anyone is interested to see that. Edited February 25, 2015 by Modeler12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiKri Posted February 25, 2015 Share #19 Posted February 25, 2015 DiKri, the way I read this new forum you mentioned, it wants you to join and then pay for what ever info you want. Perhaps I am wrong about reading the first page. Do you suppose that my idea could be worth something with those members As far as I can see, you can read most articles in this forum without having to register. And even registering is free and of course necessary if you want to post something. You only have to pay if you want a subscription to the magazine or other publications. mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modeler12 Posted February 25, 2015 Share #20 Posted February 25, 2015 As far as I can see, you can read most articles in this forum without having to register. And even registering is free and of course necessary if you want to post something. You only have to pay if you want a subscription to the magazine or other publications. Sorry, my mistake. I must have read it wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trussben Posted March 2, 2015 Share #21 Posted March 2, 2015 Hey guys, A scroll saw is just another saw, same rules apply. Blade selection all comes down to what material and how thick it is. Druxey hit on the head, 3 teeth in the material is a good rule of thumb. Also practice with speed of saw, speed of feed and blade type. Cutting basswood compared to boxwood is obviously a different thing. Blade types like reverse, ultra-reverse, circular all give different results. It's just practice guys, horses for courses. Take the time to learn your equipment and how it performs under different conditions. Ben Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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