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Pt. V: Building V108 - The Hull

Intro to Card Models card models paper models v108

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#1
ccoyle

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And now the part you've been waiting for:  What are we going to build??  Answer:  We will build the 1/200 scale V108 torpedo boat from Digital Navy.  Some reasons for this model: First, I have it printed already, and my printer has shown a recent propensity for not wanting to print on card stock, so finding a different model was problematic.  Second, I have never built it before, which means that I'll have more motivation to build it, plus you and I will encounter the inherent construction problems together at the same time (all card models, no matter how top-shelf they are, have some construction problems; overcoming these is part of the challenge of card models).  Third, it is a reasonably-sized model - not too big, not too small, and not overly difficult (based on parts count).  Fourth, it is a torpedo boat, and torpedo boats are cool - who wouldn't want one?

 

The first thing you will need to do is acquire the model.  Roman at Digital Navy has been kind enough to allow MSW to host the files here.  Be sure to visit his web site - perhaps send a note of thanks and maybe even spend a few dollars!  Each of the four pages comes in the form of a PDF.  Download the files to your computer.

 

Page one is a cover sheet.

Attached File  V108 diag1.pdf   978.46KB   182 downloads

 

v108 cover sheet.JPG

 

Page two is construction diagrams.  Construction diagrams are very important for card models, since most card models are printed in non-English-speaking countries; therefore, the translation of instructions (if there is any) can be a little tortured - just like those infamous Italian-to-English instructions in many wood kits.  So, diagrams are the chief construction guide for card models, and their number, completeness, and clarity can make or break a build.

Attached File  V108 diag2.pdf   552.82KB   146 downloads

 

v108 diagrams.JPG

 

Pages three and four are parts sheets.  Two sheets is a small number for a card model.

Attached File  V108 sheet1.pdf   829.18KB   170 downloads

Attached File  V108 sheet2.pdf   869.99KB   156 downloads

 

v108 parts sheet.JPG

 

Depending on your printer, you can try printing the model at normal resolution, or at 'best quality' for better color density.  You may also need to tell your printer that you are printing on card stock.  You can print the first two pages (cover sheet and diagrams) on 20 lb bond paper (regular printer paper).  The pages are formatted in 26 cm x 19 cm, so they should fit on both 8.5 x 11 and A4.  You'll want to print the parts pages on 20 lb bond as well - some parts will be easier to form on the thinner paper.  The parts sheets also need to be printed on card stock (after all, it's a "card model").  Finding card stock can be intimidating, because it comes in different thicknesses and is measured differently in the US than elsewhere.  The easiest way to get some is to go to your local stationery store and ask for "card stock" - chances are, whatever they direct you to will do the job.

 

Once you have the model printed, it will be time to prep the parts.


Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#2
ccoyle

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V108 will be built on a skeleton consisting of a set of formers, much like any wood kit.  These formers will be made by laminating the printed former parts to a piece of 1 mm card; all the parts that need laminating are indicated by an asterisk on the parts sheets.  There are different types of thick card available.  The piece you see in the photo is the typical chipboard used for backing glued-up pads of paper.  It is also possible to laminate multiple sheets of regular card stock until the desired thickness is achieved; this sort of laminated card is easier on #11 blades than chipboard.

1 mm card.JPG

 

It doesn't hurt to check that the parts, as printed, are in fact supposed to be 1 mm thick.  In this photo, I've checked the locator lines on the hull base plate to verify that yes, the longitudinal profile former should be 1 mm thick.

verifying parts width.JPG

 

And here I've checked the thickness of the parts sheet and chipboard together.  They come in at very slightly under 1 mm, which is good, because the spray adhesive will add a little to the thickness.

verifying laminated width.JPG

 

Next, give the parts sheets (four all together) a couple of light coats of matte clear spray varnish.  This will give the parts sheets a little bit of added stiffness and also protect the parts (somewhat) against accidental spills.

matte clear coat.JPG

 

When the sheets have dried thoroughly, it will be time to laminate the parts that need to be 1 mm thick.  You'll have to separate the 1 mm parts from the other parts on the sheets.  Follow the directions on the can of 3M 77 spray adhesive and glue the parts to the chipboard or other card stock.  You may find that the glued-up sheets want to curl a bit.  You can offset this by stacking some heavy books on the flat sheets and letting them sit overnight.

3M 77.JPG

 

At this point, you'll notice that the parts sheets include the necessary pieces for building the hull below the waterline.  I'll be building the model as a waterline model.  Card model hulls below the waterline are very difficult to get right, so since they may be a first model for you, I'm opting to eliminate the hassle.

 

Next, it will be time for cutting and gluing!

 

Back to Part IV: Tools & Other Supplies


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Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#3
qwerty2008

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I'm in.

103_3353.JPG

103_3354.JPG

103_3355.JPG

 

Lextin


"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein.

#4
ccoyle

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Ah ah ah ... no head-starts! ;)


Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#5
qwerty2008

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Sorry I couldn't resist :P

Question: would this be considered model built from a kit?

 

Lextin.


Edited by qwerty2008, 07 July 2013 - 06:47 AM.

"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein.

#6
ccoyle

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Yes, kit builds all go in the kit build log section regardless of media.


Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#7
donfarr

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Following this thread a lot. Question is 90# Bristol board OK. I use it a lot for making templates it is pretty stiff Thanks Don Farr

#8
mtaylor

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Chris,

I've been following along as time permits and finally managed to get up to date.  I'm not building along but you're doing a great job with this tutorial.


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Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild


#9
donfarr

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Hi Again, The other thing i normally download to a CD then take to Kinkos to print i can then adjust to size less or more. Thanks again Don Farr

#10
ccoyle

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Yep, Don, good tip on Kinko's.  Normal card weights are anywhere from 80-110 lb, so your 90 lb Bristol should work. 


Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#11
Adrieke

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although I have started on another card model (San Salvador) I might join in on this one just for the fun of it :)


achter elke traan van verdriet, zit een glimlach van herinnering

behind each tear of sadness, there is a smile of a memory

 

farewell my friend I ll miss you

 

 

Current build : OcCre Gorch Fock 1/95

Next build : AL HMB Endeavour 1/60

On the Shelf : AL San Juan, Mamoli HMS Victory

Builds on hold : MMSD San Salvador (Card) 1:100

Previous Builds Gallery : Virginia; King of Mississippi

Previous Builds logs : AL King of Mississippi 1/80


#12
Reg

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Really a superb presentation!

 

Reg



#13
ccoyle

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Thanks for your comments, guys!  It just so happens I have the next installment ready to go.

 

Once the laminated parts have had adequate time to dry, it is time to start cutting.  Here's the complete set of hull framing parts cut from their sheets.

hull framing parts.JPG

Cutting leads right away to a serious question:  Do I cut on the line, outside the line, or inside the line?  This might seem like a silly question, especially considering that this kit has very fine line borders.  However, not all kits have such fine artwork, and (worse perhaps) there is no consensus among designers about whether the line is part of the part or not.  Moreover, if you use headband magnifiers while cutting, which I do because of my bad eyesight, you'll discover that even with very fine lines it is possible to cut on, outside, or inside.  So, how am I treating this particular kit, you ask?  Answer: I tend to cut along the inside edge of the line.  Be advised that if you use chipboard, the stuff is like rock compared to ordinary card.  My #11 blade tip broke on the second part, but have no fear - the remainder of the blade actually cuts chipboard better without the missing tip (the tip is essential for controlled cutting on plain card, though).  In fact, I only needed one blade to cut out all the 1 mm parts.

 

And now we can start gluing!  First thing to do is to glue the two halves of the hull base plate together.  I'm using Elmer's yellow wood glue -- it grabs pretty fast.  Glue the butt joint first, then use two pieces of scrap chipboard to reinforce the joint.

base plate tab joint.JPG

 

Once this is done, it's time to fix the hull base former to a temporary working base -- something rigid that will keep the hull from warping during construction.  I use a small piece of plate glass.  I used a spot of rubber cement at the bow, midships, and stern.  The rubber cement should allow the hull to be easily removed later (hopefully).

gluing to working base.JPG

 

Next, start dry fitting the hull formers.  Remember -- fit twice, glue once!  It is important that the bulkhead formers sit flush with the longitudinal former.  Trim where necessary.

dry fitting the formers.JPG

 

Some of the formers will need to be beveled where they meet curved portions of the hull.  The bow end of the longitudinal former will also need beveling.

beveling.JPG  

 

Once all the formers are correctly trimmed, they can be glued to the hull base plate, starting with the longitudinal formers (two parts), then adding the eight bulkhead formers.  It is more important that the bulkhead formers are flush with the edges of the base plate than perfectly sitting on the locator lines, but they should be close.  Once all the formers are glued in, I add some extra weight to the hull so the finished model will have some 'heft' to it.  Here you can see where I've glued in some lead fishing weights.

extra weight.JPG

 

Next comes the main deck.  Note that there are some red portions on these pieces -- these are to be cut or drilled out before assembly.  I don't worry too much about the drilling, because that is easily done on the assembled hull and isn't always necessary in any case.  The cut-out portions, however, should definitely be removed in advance.

note portions to be cut out.JPG

 

At this point we may as well talk about edge coloring.  Cut paper has edges, obviously, and there are three schools of thought on how to treat these.  Some modelers don't color edges; to them, it's a badge of honor of sorts that indicates the model is made from card.  Personally, I find uncolored edges ghastly.  The second school are those that go to any length to find or mix watercolors, acrylics, or gouache that match the printed colors exactly.  These people will also fill and sand any gaps in the seams where necessary.  The Poles are masters at this technique, but it is a lot of work.  If that floats your boat, go for it.  I subscribe to the third school, the one that believes edges should be visually minimized.  The idea is to make the seams and exposed edges less obvious but not necessarily completely unnoticeable.  Thus, for this model, most any shade of gray felt-tip marker will suffice for edge coloring, since a gray edge on a gray model is far less obvious than a white edge on a gray model.  If you go this route, test your markers to make sure they don't bleed excessively into the paper fibers.

 

Once the deck edges are colored, the two halves are glued and reinforced in the same manner as the base plate.

tab joints beneath deck.JPG

 

Once that's dry, we can then glue the main deck down on the hull formers.  Apply glue to the tops of the formers, slip the deck over the two stack profiles that fit through the previously cut out slots, and make sure the tops of the formers are flush with the edges of the deck.

deck glued.JPG

Ta-daaaa!

 

Finally, it helps to add some weight on top of the deck while the glue is drying.  Here I've added a couple of small but heavy books.  That's Ships of the Royal Navy on the right, a perfectly useless book in my opinion, and Retribution by Max Hastings on the left, a much more enjoyable volume chronicling the final year of the allied war against Japan.

weight during dry time.JPG

 

Till next time!


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Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#14
ccoyle

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A vital lesson in card modeling...

 

See anything wrong with this picture?

1 what is wrong with this picture.JPG

 

Now this is more how it should be:

2 that is more like it.JPG

 

Spot the difference? :)


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Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#15
ccoyle

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Before we move on to the hull sides, we must first add the forecastle formers.  No big deal -- just remember to bevel the bow edge of the longitudinal former.

3 forecastle formers.JPG

 

Next it is necessary to introduce another valuable card modeling tool.  You will frequently need to fold paper parts, and scoring the fold line makes this job infinitely easier -- the paper will naturally want to bend where the fibers have been weakened by scoring.  To do this, you'll want something with a fine but not too sharp tip (you don't want to actually cut the paper).  You can do the job with the back of a #11 blade, but I find that an awl or scribing tool works better.

4 awl.JPG

 

Part 13a has two curved, dashed lines on either side that need to be scored.  The lines are fairly difficult to see.

5 line to be scored.JPG

 

Straight lines are much easier to score, because you can use a steel rule to guide your scoring tool.  Unless you have a set of drafting curves, curved lines will need to be done freehand, and this takes a bit of practice, because paper has a grain, and your tool will thus want to track off to one side or the other.  Here's the finished job:

6 line after scoring.JPG

 

Later, the edges of this part will need to formed into a slight curve, but for now you can set this part aside.


Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#16
JPett

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Ahoy Chris :D

 

Great build log. Thanks for taking the time to share. I will put one of these in my bucket.


Edited by JPett, 11 July 2013 - 04:04 AM.

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 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworl...28-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworl...l-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworl...as-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 


#17
ccoyle

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Generally speaking, card model parts are numbered in the sequence in which the designer intended they be assembled, but it doesn't always make sense to follow this sequence.  For example, if we follow the part number sequence on this model, the forecastle deck (13) would be followed by the hull side skins (14) ('skin' is the card modeling term for any large outer part that covers the internal frame 'skeleton' -- get it?), and finally the stern skin (15).  This is a bad sequence for several reasons.  First, there are parts that go under the forecastle deck, and it makes more sense to install these before adding the deck.  Second, the stern should be skinned first, for reasons I'll explain later.  Stuff like this is why the diagrams and parts sequence should be studied and pondered before doing any assembly.

 

Now, look carefully at the parts sheet where the hull skins are printed (parts 14-16).  Parts 16a and 16b are optional rubbing strips; these features are already printed on parts 14 and 15, but by adding the optional strips, you give your model a little hint of depth.  This technique is called 'doubling', because you're doubling the thickness of the part.  You need to decide now whether to add parts 16, because adding them later will be a huge headache.

7 parts for hull sides.JPG

 

Either way you decide, there is something very important to take note of in the way the parts are laid out on the page.  Notice that if you cut out the parts in the numbered sequence, i.e. parts 14 first, parts 15 and 16 will be left on a narrow strip.  If you then continue to cut out part 15, parts 16 will be left on even narrower strips.  This, my friends, is very bad.  You see, if you then continue to cut out parts 16, the narrow strips will want to splay away from your blade as you cut, and this makes cutting long, thin parts from narrow strips of parts sheet unnecessarily difficult.  To do the job right, ignore the numbering sequence and cut out the parts from the outside edge of the sheet and work towards the center.  Thus, the cutting sequence should be 14L, 16b, 16a, 15, the other 16a, the other 16b, and finally 14R.  Work carefully and note that some of the edges are not entirely straight, but slightly curved.

 

I'm going to show you the assembly sequence with the rubbing strips included.  These need to be added to hull skins before the skins are attached to the model.  Start by coloring the edges of all the hull skin parts.  Part of the inside of 14L and 14R will need to be colored where the bulwark extends slightly aft of the forecastle -- this inside portion will be visible on the finished model.  I also color the top inside edge of each hull skin just in case it extends ever so slightly higher than the hull frames. 

 

We're going to start skinning with part 15 and work forward, and here's why: If you start with 14L and 14R and work aft, if any error creeps in, the resulting gap will be somewhere amidships.  If you start with part 15 at the stern and work forward, any error creep will be at the bow, and fixing that problem at the bow (if it occurs at all) is easier than fixing it amidships.

 

Here's part 15 and one of its two rubbing strips (16b):

8 hull side plus belt.JPG

 

Use a fine-tipped paint brush to apply a thin layer of glue to half  the length of the rubbing strip, and then carefully fix it to part 15; when that's completed to your satisfaction, repeat the process with the remaining half of the rubbing strip.  In the following picture, you can see part 15 with the rubbing strip added on the left, but no strip added yet on the right -- you can judge for yourself whether the extra effort is worth it or not.

10 belt versus no belt.JPG

 

Next we'll tackle applying a skin to the hull!


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Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#18
ccoyle

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Time to start skinning the model!  As I stated in the previous post, we'll start at the stern with part 15.  Part 15 wraps around the stern and extends forward to bulkhead 3.  We'll need to pre-form the curve at the stern.  To do this, you'll need a form to help roll the paper.  Here, I'm using the body of my gray felt-tipped marker.

11 rolling a part.JPG

 

Moistening the paper at the point of the bend will decrease the likelihood of the paper crinkling instead of making a smooth curve.  Lightly moisten the inside of the part.  Licking actually works well, or you can lightly brush on some water.  Don't forget to dry fit!

12 dry fitting the stern.JPG

 

And now for another must: contact cement.

13 contact cement.JPG  

We'll use contact cement for the skins because it's a non-water-based adhesive and will not warp the skins.  It takes some practice to get used to applying the stuff (I was obviously out of practice today! :huh: ).  Apply the cement to both parts to be joined (skin and frames in this case) and wait a few minutes until it's no longer tacky.  Notice that there are locator marks dead-center on both parts 12 (deck) and 15 (hull skin); line these marks up on the two parts and begin applying the skin, working from aft forward, one side at a time.  I use the flat side of my tweezers to press the skin to the model -- works much better than fingers.  CAUTION!  Contact cement is very unforgiving of mistakes!  Once it's stuck, it's stuck!  So be sure to get it right the first time!

14 gluing the stern.JPG

 

And here's your reward for a job well done: a nice, tidy, properly fitted and hopefully not wrinkled or crinkled stern!

15 finished stern.JPG


Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#19
ianmajor

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Chris,

 

This is a superb tutorial both as excellent guidance and as a good read. I am looking forward to the next installment.


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Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 


#20
amateur

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So am I!

 

Jan


Edited by amateur, 11 July 2013 - 11:45 AM.

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