All Activity
This stream auto-updates
- Past hour
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Any idea why the kit manufacturers are calling this a Brigantine rig? Clearly it’s a Brig, with square rig on each mast. To be a brigantine it’d need a fore and aft rig on the Main. An error in translation? -
Back to the build - fitting the intermediate Bulwark supports. First BEWARE - they suggest using the "rough" gunport strips as templates - that works fine BUT the laser cuts in the strips are deep and the strips have a tendency to break . So you MUST prebend them - water or steam - otherwise you will end up with broken strips which will be a nuisance later. I didnt - and I have ! Oh dear the rest of the kit all seemed sooooo accurate I was surprised at how far out these were in position. To get the spacing required meant quite "lean " on some bits. T get the spacing right against the "rough bulwark strip" requires a LOT of fiddling. I was only when I realised that these pieces would be covered by gunport lining etc that i dared to go ahead and stick them all - they can be trimmed or shimmed later if required -
Cattleman’s cutlet, roast potatoes and carrots. Delicious
-
A bit tongue in cheek yes. But he's something of an icon -if that's the right word -in this part of the world. Curiously, we must have been 'spatial' -but almost not in the same times- near neighbours, Spyglass. In that photo, above, lurks Turnchapel in the distance there; I lived in a fine house overlooking everything there was to see. Good times, very good times indeed. Small world, it would seem. Best wishes to you, Spyglass and MTaylor. Thanks for the welcomes. [Edit] Thinking of submitting a build log of this 1/25th Portuguese Captain's boat as a 'from a newb for newbs' kind of theme. Could be useful for some, laughably primitive for others!
-
Soup /stew looks good. I'll pass on the burned vegetables if you don't mind
- Today
-
Hi. I end undersheathing and glue the main decks. -
Yes its great - I live in an apartment overlooking the river - just had a topsail schooner sail past . Drake "kindly " well I have never heard him described like that before " blood-thirsty greedy pirate" may be closer to the mark - but he was a great Englishman !
-
Admiralty model query
Mark P replied to iMack's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Good Morning All; I don't know if iMack, who started this thread will see this, but to go back to his original query: The number of frames/ribs in an Admiralty Board Model is equal to the number of station lines used to set out the ship's body. Each station line represents the fore face of the frames heading aft, and the aft face of the frames heading forwards. Note, however, that draughts normally show only every third station line. The number of station lines was dependent upon the size of the floor timbers to be used to build the ship, as it was this dimension which produced the 'room and space' measurement, which was the distance from face to face of successive frames. An important point to understand here is that in Georgian times the room and space was calculated slightly differently to that of the 17th century, when Admiralty (also commonly called Navy Board Models) started to appear. For models built in the Admiralty/Navy Board style, the distance between the ribs/frames of the model was normally equal to 17th century full-size practice. In those times, the space between the floor timbers was completely filled by the bottom of the first futtock, with the futtock stopping short of the keel. So to decide the number of station lines, it is necessary to know the room and space. See below an extract from a builder's contract from 1652, giving the room and space as 28". As the floor timbers are 14", the lower ends of the futtocks would also have been 14" to fill the space between the floor timbers. the keele with an ynch and quarter Bolt, the Flowre Tymbers to bee in length two and twenty foote, upp and Downe one foote, fore and aft fourteen inches, roome and Space to bee two foot four ynches, The Dead Rysing to bee four ynches at least; the lower Futtocks to fill the roome, and to have Six or seaven foote Scarffe in the Midshipps, the other Teere of Futtocks to have six Therefore, a model built to this room and space would have a frame every 28". Room and space varied according to the ship size. From early in the 18th century framing methods changed. Amongst other changes, the first futtock now reached the keel. A small gap, around 2", was left between the face of the futtock and the face of the floor timber of the next station. However, to construct a Navy Board style framed model, the futtock would need to be increased slightly in its sided dimension, to completely fill the space between the floor timbers. Again it is necessary to know the room and space. See below an extract from a builder's contract for 'Warspite' dated 1755. Room and space is 29" (very similar to that of 100 years earlier!) As the floor timbers are 15", the lower ends of the futtocks would be 14" to fill the space between the floor timbers (to build a Navy Board style model, the timbers could all be 14 1/2") Room & Space of Timbers. To be Two feet five inches. Floor Timbers. The Floor Timbers between Timber three, & Timber C, in the bearing of the Ship, to be Sided one foot three inches, and from 3 to 15 Aft, and from C to H forward to be sided one foot two ins; from 15 Aft, & from H forward, to be Sided one foot one inch; to be in length in Midships twenty five feet, eight inches, and afore and abaft as the draught directs. If you have a draught which shows station lines, the room and space is easy to find: the draught will normally show every third station line, so to find the room and space, and the number of frames you will need, divide the distance between the station lines into 3 equal portions. To find the shape of the intervening station lines, it will be necessary, as discussed in previous answers to this post, to loft them from the draught. All the best, Mark P -
A bit of spare time over the Easter break to work on the ship. Standing rigging completed yesterday with the last of the ratlines done. Bowsprit all fitted out now. Today I fitted the shroud cleats and some cleats on the rail stanchions. All ready to get stuck into the running rigging now. -
Testing first sample of twelve pounder cannons : other details are too thin, out my view... 😋 -
Thanks, Gary. As predicted, I got virtually nothing done today as there were crowds of people in the museum. John -
A rare and beautiful antique! John
-
I’m doing alright!
-
You don't have much left for structure on that deck. Wouldn't fixing the brass restore some/most of it's strength so you can continue more easily? -
RCN H-class destroyer by cog - Trumpeter - 1/350 - plastic
cog replied to cog's topic in Build Logs for SHIP MODEL KITS
Hello Jo, Thanks, it seems you pop up all over the place Actually not holding back, my back is holding me from it. A few more weeks of manual torture, and straining excercises, and I will be good to go. Good to have you join in the fun of screwed eyes and headaches ... You should have a go at one of these plastic & PE things sometime. All sorts of new tools you can buy -
When getting ready to let go, the anchor would have been hanging on the quick release only, the Cat lifting tackle would have been used to rig the quick release and then the anchor was lowered until it was suspended on the release chain, the Cat block would have then been lowered until the hook could be released and the whole rig secured out of the way. Should not be any lashings holding the anchor at this point except the Anchor Buoy which would have enough line to allow the Buoy to float at high tide while being secured to the anchor on the bottom. What we used for the Buoy was a 3"50 can, painted red with the tether line around it like the thread on a spool. It was held by a Seaman and tossed overboard when the anchor was let go, it spun the line off as the anchor fell, leaving the Buoy on the surface. Modern yes, something similar must have been done 200 years ago. heck it worked, why change anything but the materials. -
I like those depthcharge throwers next to Y-turret, got a few of those (3D printed) for the RCN destroyer. She is turning out rather well, mate. The oilcanning looks very good too. Don't forget to eat now you're home alone
-
There will be a bunch of ropes, my friend, and, to be honest, that is main reason I decide to say "stop, this is it"
-
I think it’s lighting OC, this is such a dull paint job, I’ll do a better job on the final shots I promise. I kinda lost interest in this one about half way through as it’s a lot of plod. I’ll enjoy this build a lot more when I get to a bit of weathering.
-
No just straight strip but i go 40, 80 ,120 mm strips on a 3 system all cut individually I love this ship cheers snowy
-
USS Fletcher by RGL - Tamiya - 1/350
Old Collingwood replied to RGL's topic in Build Logs for SHIP MODEL KITS
Your building skills far exceed your photo skills greg - she is looking stunning - you do need a better camera to show your best. OC. -
All the little bits thrown on, lots of touch ups to go, railings, and ship’s boats plus the last guns. Bit of rigging to go.
-
Like them mate, its amazing how much difference pe and metal fittings make to a kit, kind of gives that extra reasurance of strength and not forgetting realism, please excuse the poor spelling i suffer from word blindness sometimes lol) OC.
-
I was reluctant to switch to electronic books as well. Still kind of feel that way for many research books that have pictures, and some others. But for general reading I have fallen in love with my kindle Fire. It is only the first generation so it is pretty much limited to just reading, but it does that pretty well. I find that I can read in bed at night without disturbing my wife, (When I get back to the point where I can get back upstairs and sleep in my bed again). I can change the font size to make things a little easier to read with eyes that admittedly are not as good as they once were. A smaller advantage is that I can carry multiple books at the same time without the bulk or weight penalty. The only shortcoming is that it needs charging, but then it can run for quite some time on a single charge. I suspect the new ones can do all this and more.
-
iMustBeCrazy joined the community
-
Albatros D.V by CDW - Wingnut Wings - 1:32 Scale - Plastic
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I should have mentioned earlier...these are home made turn buckles. Twisted micro wire gets inserted and glued into micro brass tubing. Flying wires are seized onto the twisted wire loops. Easy peasy.
Our Emblem
