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Yeah, vector CAD is an entirely different animal than poly modelers. I actually started learning CAD with 3DS Max a couple decades ago but switched to Rhino for this project. I'll never go back, when it comes to ships at least. It's far easier to draw curves accurately. As for end product, my goal is a paper or wood model. I can't afford a CNC mill at the moment, but I can probably get a laser cutter in the next year or so. In the meanwhile I can print on card to my heart's content so I'm going to do that and cut the layers out by hand and glue them together. I just have to get all the parts into 3D so I can slice them into layers for printing. 🙂

The broad strakes were fairly straightforward to cut and fit, though they were offered up multiple times each to permit making tight fits to the previous plank. . Once the planking sequence had moved beyond the curve of the forefoot, the landing for the keel was planed flat athwartships and a suitable thickness of stock was offered up to be scribed to the needed shape. Here it is clamped in place to lay out the location for a stepped scarf to be cut for connection to the stem. The next photo is actually posted upside down but it permits viewing the structure in the aft end of the hull (as well as a lot of drip-and-squeeze-out to be cleaned up). The small "box" under the deck aft holds the rudder servo. I had meant to simply build the box into the stern prior to fitting the final piece of blocking and then remove the servo to keep it out of harm's way. However, I made it too tight of a fit and the servo remains in place. The planking continued to be fitted working toward the stern's "knuckle" and the keel was tapered and glued in place. The design of the hull incorporating the"knuckle" was a suggestion of Bill Garden's for allowing some width to the deck level aft while letting the run easily release the water's flow without dragging a transom. The "knuckle" blends into the rounded bilge as it goes forward by about station #6. And as the plank strakes "turned the corner", this became clearer after the first topside plank went into place. By April 25th, the rest of the planks to the level of the deck edge were in place and the stem had been bonded in place. Final fairing of the upper edge of the stern "block" awaits the turn-over of the hull as will the bulwark planking.

The foremast loading tackles are done: Griswold is pleased with his work, he can load his barrels of mead now:

Although, since we only use a portion of our brain, I would like to think those spare neurons step up and replace the dead ones. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Unfortunately, at my age, the brain cell boot camp isn't cranking out the new recruits like it used to.

This marks the start of my Syren POF Speedwell! I’ve been dealing with some medical issues and am now close to being 100%, so here we go! A POF has been a bucket list build for a long time as I’ve admired this style of model. Most of the offerings out there just didn’t appeal to me with the scaffold type of construction. Enter Chuck with his Speedwell, Bingo! I’m a huge fan of Chuck’s designs and all the help he (and the other MSW modelers) provides, it gives guys like me a lot of hope. I’ve built Chuck’s Medway (my first wood build) and it came out awesome. Thanks Chuck! I’ve started Cheerful but a POF build has extreme attraction for me. I’ll probably work on Cheerful when a break is needed. Last month at the New London Conference I got to meet Chuck (and Rusty, Ryland and Olha and several others! Awesome to meet you guys!). Had some great conversations and it was nice putting a face to the name. Also, I got to eyeball Chuck’s Speedwell, pictures in the build thread don’t do it justice. A real beauty! Anyway, here we go! When Chuck said there was a lot of wood in the 1st 2 chapters, he wasn’t kidding! The laser cutting is the best I’ve ever seen in a model. A lot of the parts had fallen out of the billets, so I took some time to place them in their proper place and used some blue painters tape to hold them in place. Because the thickness of the wood, I see a lot of billet sanding to remove surface char in my future. Here’s a picture of the wood. Stem will be started tonight. Best Regards …. Rick

Could be the corresponding yard length.

Found it.

Incredible work! Congratulations!

I use that method and carve the grooves in with a scalpel.

Hello NenadM! Fairly new to MSW and have been exploring all things Cutty Sark. Have enjoyed catching up with your modeling project. I started a model of Cutty Sark 40 years ago and am now ready to finish it now that I am retired. Will be starting a build log shortly once I get myself organized. Black River Monastery looks very interesting, and thanks for sharing that. I have visited underground monastic caves in Penza oblast, Russia (before war) so this sort of experience is very interesting to me. All my best to you, Ron

Thanks Patrick for the thoughtful reply, and the link as well! I’ve learned a lot from watching your YouTube channel- your videos are great and your models are outstanding. Thanks for all the effort you put in to sharing what you know. appreciate the kind words as well! The big SmurfJet is a labor of love for me- thanks for following along best Pete

And I’m back, a bloke made up a box for her. Still got some gaps which I used acrylic water, once it sets clear I can start in the waves proper

While I'm experimenting with paints, stains, dies, and finishes, I finished the last task in Chapter 3 of the practicum.

Before the upper shrouds can be rigged, the upper burton pedants have to be laid over the mast heads. The upper burton pendants are done basically the same as the lower ones with a couple of exceptions - they're only on the main and fore masts and they're a bit smaller. So instead of using the little nuts I shaved down for the lowers, I used a brass tube notched, cut, and sanded. The line is listed as 3", so I'm using .35mm served it's length and then tied with eyes around the thimbles.

The "INS" is inches... so for example, the Head is 10 feet, 6 inches. I"m not sure what the last column is.

Roger, My naval experience was 24 years as a Hospital Corpsman, 20 of those years were in submarines. I retired as a Senior Chief Petty Officer who turned down a promotion to Master Chief in order to retire. Thank you for your service. Bill

Here are the Main Top Sail and Top Gallant yard arms joining the rest of the "family". Mizzen Top Sail and Top Gallant to go.

Inner bulwark (parts 92 and 93) pinned in position and "painted" with 60/40 PVA/H2O I will let this dry overnight and then the real fun begins tomorrow.

Glad you’ve got it figured. That’s quite a different way to how I’d do this in F360 and it would probably just confuse the issue by getting into that. Can I ask, what are you aiming for as an end product? A CNC-milled kit, or something like that?

Here is one of my favorite references for making blocks from Mondfeld. I had just about got to the point of going forward with this method when Chuck started selling his blocks. You can see that taking it down to very small size is possible. If you have a small table saw, i.e., Proxxon, Byrnes, etc., it will really help with the grooves..

Just working on the fore and aft bulwarks now... got a little bit done on my 2 hour lunch break today. Also, did some significant plank bending with a relatively new tool and it works very well!

Thanks, Nils. I think she'll certainly use up all my patience! Phil, the ship was 102 meters long and the model is at a scale of 1:100, so the hull of the model is 1.062 meters. The double spanker rig was quite common on German ships of the period. I think it looks good and adds extra interest on an otherwise fairly bare jigger mast. John

A medical expert informed me that brain neurons are not replaced, so as they die off, so do "you" - your intellect, that is.

Can only agree with everyone else. Fantastic build log, beautiful plane 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

This will be a spectacular model. It looks like a very tempting kit - the Mig also Looking forward to it Alan