Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Sorry to hear about the honeymoon, expect they did at least gave a partial refund ... After ten years we might have expected some prowes, so a mere 2 tries sounds about acceptable, if not extreme. Glad your vision didn't come true, and you finished tying up the hook, even ifit is not exactly to your wishes.
  3. Thank you very much. It will be a while yet. I dont want to release the starter package until I am well ahead of folks. Not until at least the planking is completed. I did however finalize the starter package parts and I will probably start laser cuttinf them next month. I just want to start stockpiling them for the eventual release. But yes it will be a first come first serve sort of thing.
  4. So planking upwards now. Leaving some spaces on the bottom stern to catch the turn correctly. Ofcourse those will be filled at the end with a few stealers. Am coming nearer to the end. Though am still stressed with the out coming of the ending at the bow, of the rest of the planks. I guess, if the planks get too thin, then maybe I will have to use a joggler or two
  5. Sounds a bit like like phantom pain, or thoughts in your case Lou.
  6. Today
  7. That's a little simplified, isn't it Mark? As I recall the progression went from full lateen mizzen course, to keeping the lateen boom but stopping the sail at the mast as it would be here, and then the final evolution was straightforward fore-and-aft gaff sails with a boom on the bottom and a gaff up top. At least that's what I recall reading. Can't remember the dates between lateen mizzen and shortened lateen mizzen, maybe 1690-1710 or so? And the final step was fairly late, after 1800 I think.
  8. Thanks @popeye the sailor I posted one pic in the thread on how to rig these anchors, but I should catch up progress here. I've made all the rigging for both anchors, and have rigged one but the other is in limbo while the experts determine if a cutter could operate two anchors at once, and if so, how. Since you can't engage or disengage the hawsers from the windlass without pulling all the cable up on deck and detaching it from the bitts, either they went through extreme anguish trying to operate two anchors, or you could loosen one set of wrappings selectively, and work on one anchor without affecting the other. There is a surprising (to me) amount of discussion on this point, considering the commonness of cutter models built and the consistency of their windlass/anchor arrangements. If I'm allowed to wrap both hawsers on the windlass, I will hang the port anchor from the cathead. If not, I will stow it with no hawser. As expected, starting with those 2mm blocks means that working with even a 1/8" block is all giggles and rainbows. The catfall blocks with their hooks, which once again proved the axiom that no matter how many gauges of wire you have, you will never have the right size. These involved a fair amount of hand filing as what was needed fell between the two closest gauge sizes I have. Anchor ready to be installed with hawser, catfall block, and buoy rope. I went with an anchor bend as the line was too thick to do the fisherman's bend recommended for small anchors, and an anchor clinch was only used on large ship anchors. I had to flip her over to drill the holes for the catfall eyes in the underside of the catheads, which of course I didn't know I needed until now. While I was at it, I finished drilling holes for CF rod in the keel that will go in the pedestals. And we get a probably last clear view of the planking. Starboard anchor installed, but not finished. I need to put a small cleat on the top of each cathead where it sits on the rail for the catfall line. Also, if anyone is reading in enough detail, how does one finish a line belayed to a timberhead? I'm not sure what the line is called (the fully served one), but usually it goes from a belaying point on one side of the cathead to another on the other side, but since I didn't have two belaying points I went from the timberhead through the anchor and back to the same timberhead. So does the end of the line just stick out in space? Or did they go under other lines a few more times to completely hide it? Another view, I seized a loop in one end of the fully-served line and that went over the timberhead first. How I lashed the other end to a timberhead, and a good look at the buoy rope. In retrospect (AGAIN), I should have gone from timberhead to the shank of the anchor instead of the fluke. The way I have it, it would move. OTOH, if I went across the shank the lashings would be bearing on the buoy line, I don't know if that was considered a problem or not. And the controversial windlass, with the starboard anchor hawser having turns around it. As noted, just waiting for final decision before mounting the other anchor. After I do that, I HAVE to stop doing other things and mount the rudder before the whole mess becomes too fragile.
  9. Keith, thanks, that makes it straightforward (I like straightforward). I am very impressed with the looks of your Germania and will experiment with the home-brew wipe-on-poly on the different woods I am accumulating for my build. My garage/workshop is very poorly sheltered from the Sussex elements and I intend to get this round of experiments over quickly now the weather has turned nice. Bruce
  10. Everything I see is very nice, very clean work Jean-Paul. No need for help here, just sit back and watch a pretty ship being made
  11. Isn't this another kit that was designed by Chuck Passaro? You're right that you solved the problem well and are moving on, but out of curiosity's sake and future needs, you might could drop him a PM and see if he has any input on bending the wood that MSW is including in the kits these days. You're right, woods have different fundamental bending processes and you could do everything right and still have problems with certain woods. The beauty of the steam cleaners is that you just tell the admiral you're buying an excellent tool for cleaning bathrooms and kitchens to total sterility, and she approves and awards you a medal of bravery
  12. Bruce, Wipe on poly is just normal oil based polyurethane diluted with white spirit. I just buy Wilko own brand poly and dilute it 1:1 with white spirit. I am using it at the moment on my Germania build if you want to see what it looks like. You can buy it at Amazon - but don't - silly price.
  13. Thanks to all who follow the progress of my build. Since yesterday was Holy Friday and I was on leave, I was able to advance on the laying of the boxwood panels. For the 20 small side panels, no particular problem, they position themselves on top of the thwarts. At the stern, I photocopied the plan and cut out the useful parts to precisely determine the position of the panels. A piece of wood of the right height quickly shaped will help to install the panels. Time to add the paper friezes.
  14. Pat, Thanks for the casting "tutorial"... I appreciate the effort you put into the explanation. Cheers, Dan
  15. 19.2.5 Finishing the hound pieces On each of the hound pieces there is a ring for a block. At starboard side for the crane line, at portside for the trawl warp.
  16. 19.2.4 The Mast slats The back of the mast was protected by a series of oak slats for the rubbing of the gaff jaws. The slats extend from the upper position of the gaff jaws to the lowest reef position. At the top they were kept together by a steel ring, at the bottom by a copper plate. Gluing the first slat. All the slats into place. Making the copper plate. At the bottom of the slats I made a groove for the plate. Fitting the plate. Plate nailed into place, seen from behind. Seen from the side. Making the steel ring out of brass. Ring into position.
  17. Smart looking cutter Cabbie, nice work on the ports and bulwark planking. 👍 B.E.
  18. A little bit more to show. It might not look like much, but I've been busily fairing and sanding the inside of the lower hull preparatory to fitting the keelson and some stringers to stiffen the structure. I now feel like I'm starting to get somewhere - but probably won't achieve much on Monday; being Easter Monday the museum will probably be crowded with visitors. John
  1. Load more activity

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...