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I came accross a review of a recently published Lego set of the Endurance. The article is written by a nautical expert, well researched, and contains a number of interesting facts about the ship and the journey. A recommended read for anyone interested in Shackleton's voyage and the Endurance itself. https://brickset.com/article/115678/review-10335-the-endurance

Mine is due on Monday.

It’s ok? The print is not the best and slightly unaligned in places, but is also missing a piece which I’ve asked the vendor to rectify

The Forward Well Deck Bulwark (Starboard) Time now to install the starboard bulwark replacement… Let’s see how it fits. I made the section a bit longer on the aft end so that I could carefully file the end a bit at a time to get a perfect fit. Once satisfied, I first cemented down the forward upright side – paying particular attention to aligning the facing of the new section with the outboard hull edge. Next, I cemented down three strips along the base and lined up the new piece with the hull across the bottom – again paying particular attention to exact alignment to the outer hull surface. Since there is a slight curve to the hull along this edge, I divided the strip into three sections so that there wouldn’t be any tension pushing outward along the length of the new bulwark. Lastly, I cemented the aft edge to align with the edge of the hull – paying particular attention… blah, blah. The small gaps are fine… easily filled in and smoothed over at a later step. You can see the significant improvement in the scale width of the bulwark. Not to say it is exact to what the true scale would need to be – but close enough for me. Using the .020” sheet gives enough stiffness to work without the risk of warping when the inner details are applied. I did not add the inner stiffeners and other details “off the model” ahead of installation. That would be wasted effort if for some reason I messed up the fit and alignment of the new section and had to start over. (ask me how I know) Instead, I’ll add those details in situ after I’m satisfied with the fit. The gap that is created with the thinner bulwark will be handled with filler pieces. Once the Scaledecks piece is in place, the space will get filled with the “Limber Board” that overlays on top of the deck along the inboard edge of the bulwark. I’ll follow up to show some of the detail in place, then move on to the aft well deck starboard bulwark. Cheers, Eva

Keith, I'm enjoying the Erebus sidetrack but Endurance does need a wee bit of attention.

Andy, thank you for taking the time to explain the process.

Yes, welcome home. Did the cows miss you? The Connie is looking right smart, Glen. Fine job you're doing.

Jared, You are really flying through the rigging process! Looking great! Regards, George

That is amazingly cool. You've really taken the carving thing and run with it! And those spikes are actually quite within the possibilities for a Viking ship. Note the holes on this weather vane, one of quite a number that have been found: They have been variously interpreted as being for pendants, tassels etc but if you look at some Viking cloak-pins that appear to be representations of one of these weather-vanes, whatever is supported by these holes seems to be more like spikes, going out radially: So I think you've got a very good case for your spikes. Nice work, mate. Steven

So here is my tail on the third try. The first one broke along the grain. I was a bit to aggressive with rough cutting the shape. ☹️. The second one looked more like a ground snail all curled up. 😂. The one below is the latest and the one I am going with. It took me almost 3 1/2 hours total so far but I am happy with it. I thought the tail would be easier than the head but it posed a whole new set of problems! I added some spikes to dress it up a bit. Right now they are just dry fit and maybe just a bit too long. Tom

Hi Steven, Thanks for positive reinforcement. I admit I took the first one I tried and used it as a test/learning piece. 😁. I have a new found appreciation for those who can just take a block of wood or stone and turn it into a lifelike piece of art with amazing realism. Tom

These are just little feet to help keep the keel horizontal! They will be cut off in the end.

First - and maybe only - coat on the flight deck. I have a couple of touch ups I’ll need to do, but I’m pretty happy with the tonal variations, although they aren’t really visible in the pic. Looks better in person. I think I may just leave it and use oils to weather/lighten when the time comes. I used MRP lacquer Dark Grey, FS36076. MRP is one of my all-time favorites. Once it’s all dry and I’m satisfied, I’ll remove the masking. Speaking of masking, I didn’t mask for the shadows as that was kicking my butt and I couldn’t get it right. Maybe I’ll come back and hand paint it. Next up is build try mini-mast and start adding stuff and prep for the haze grey… Sorry for the crappy pics.

Couple of hors snipping the pieces off the resin. A couple of fractures. I need to give it all a wash next then sanding. Construction should take about 20 minutes!

Next! Nice little 3D printed kit that was half price. Soft sticky resin but should come up nicely.

Back Stays The installation of the back stays was straight forward. The straps had already been installed earlier aft of the mast. Two 1/4" blocks were seized to hooks to hooks to fit these straps. After seizing the falls around the mast they were reeved to these blocks: John

Making progress on the lower hull: I still need to make a couple minor repairs then I’ll add the rest of the lower hull fittings and paint everything below the waterline. I really regret not doing this on Solferino so I’m not making that mistake again.

Thank you very much OC. Pegaso definitely go on the list for another try. alan

Thanks a lot all... now I need a good set of tutorials for blender, maybe one focusing on model ship modeling... but that may be a lot to ask. The learning curve seen very step though.

@Arthur Goulart - BTW, I didn't mean to seem negative on Rhino.... still a good software, and I'm excited to follow your build.

That's not just good carving for a beginner, that's good carving, period. You've done a beautiful job with it. And unlike some dragon-heads I've seen, he really looks like he belongs on a Viking ship. Oh, and the rest of the ship is good, too. 😁 Steven

Fore Topmast Staysail is done... at this point the ropes are criss-crossing each other in a very unrealistic manner. if you spot such rope, please ignore, because unless I do a full simulation of all ropes and sails at the same time (pretty much undoable at this scale), there's no way around it.

@Arthur Goulart No - most people here use Blender, especially as of late. @Loracs To each his own, but personally, I'd recommend Blender... Rhino may be easier to learn, but it doesn't come close to Blender in terms of features/functionality. I say that honestly and with no ego; it's simply a fact. Blenders' actual competitors are pro studio software like Maya or 3DS Max, but Blender is free. And as a newbie, don't you ultimately want a software you can grow into? Again, to each their own. Best of luck whatever you decide, -Nate

Print came out fairly well - but a few tweaks required Masts swayed a bit while printing - so going to try to see if some temporarily horizontal stabilisers help too

If I had to guess I would say that this is referring to the new steppings bracing system that came about around this time. I believe that Steel refers to to this elsewhere in the document. The key point in the quote above is not what they do currently, but what he says they used to do (2 treenails in one frame and 1 in the next).