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Jon, you're absolutely right. The glue does help, and the thread is still flexible. The challenge is making the size adjustments between the fittings on the ship to the carronades. So far, it has taken me two days to rig two carronades. The first one came out pretty decent, but not perfect because this is my first time working with very tiny parts. The second one was a little tough because I made them a couple millimeters longer than they should be, so I've been working around that. I also used the original thread for tying the breech. After seeing the first one, I decided to use a thicker thread instead. The original thread was already known to be inadequate. I use the original thread for rigging the carronades and the thicker thread that is fray resistant for the breeches.

I couldn't resist; I started another step. I've put on the figurehead and a bit of the bow ornamentation. Unfortunately, one of the two big pieces broke. It wasn't the right shape, and trying to bend it and file it into submission went wrong. I'm now thinking of replacing it with carved wood. I'll keep you all posted on how it goes.

Hi TJM, Somehow the QG leans backward and the roof leans forward, shouldn't both lean backward? But beautifully done anyway, Matthias

Rob, a thought. Is it possible that the top of the jibboom and base of the flying jibboom might have been flattened to guarantee no possible rotation of the flying jibboom? Just like both inner bowsprit and jibboom were both carved back to rectangles to prevent any chance of rotation.

great job Chris. your longboat looks professionally built. i got this model as an intro to ship building because i figured it was small and would be quick to build. as youre finding out it's actually very complex and not ‘easy’ atall; i think mine took me 6 months to build.

1. Yes you can 2. Yes they do. If you keep it in the garage won't be an issue 3. Yes they do. Below 18°c resin may need warm up. I use a hair dryer. Keep distance to avoid overspill. In hot weather may reduce curing times

Thank you Alan, I liked the look of that Spanish version instantly, when I saw it first and added the Schneider kit later. I just recently re-read some of Hemingway´s books again and traveled a bit in his footsteps, but that was merely by accident and not intentional. Last year, we have been to Pamplona, where he wrote "The Sun Also Rises" and had our coffee in the lovely belle epoque Cafe Irun. This June, we have been to Valencia and had the same room like him in the beautiful Hotel Reina Victoria. Unfortunately the often mentioned classic hotel bar didn´t exist anymore. Cheers Rob

Great looking ship Alan

The fore castle is painted. The painting scheme on the back has been adjusted to more closely resemble the Anthony drawing. Things to consider: How to properly glue this forecastle to the hull. There's no room for a knight to hoist the yard of the fore sail. This build is now currently on hold; i'm now temporarily working on the yacht for the Amsterdam exhibition.

Back in the Shipyard 10 September 2025. Since the last update, the Bow Gun Whales have appeared. With the aid of 3mm balsa as a filler, this provided plenty of support for the run of the inner planks. The Gun Wale was cut from 6 pieces of Rosewood, and used what I call a "scarf joint"(is that correct) on the side joins. The picture shows the finished product.

Das Deck fertig beplankt , Aufbauten angebracht .

Your eyes adapt to the darkness in less than 15 minutes, and it is surprising how much you can see in the "dark." We could see unlighted fishing boats in almost any clear weather and calm seas. Heavy seas and rain made it more difficult. But even a small light could be seen from a great distance. Fishing boats often had a small light pointing down into the water to attract fish, and these were very easy to see at a great distance. You can also see the glow of bow waves and wakes from light emitted by microscopic marine creatures. I didn't have any trouble walking around on deck at night, and some of our decks were painted dark gray.

The Grecian was a beautiful ship. It will make a beautiful model! Be careful working with the thin pear wood, especially with the rear seats and thwart. That thwart is cut across the grain, and it will break very easily (I speak from experience)!

Would like to install lights in this model, especially since the instructions tell exactly how to do it. Before I could start on the 2nd deck I had to start on the electric wiring. Was a little bit afraid how to get the access to the battery compartment after finnished the 2nd deck, but there will be a removable grate hatch here later. Finnished the 2nd deck and worked a lot on the stern. Now it is time to paint parts of the model black. Also have to finish sanding the 2nd deck.

With your nibbing it looks like you are trying to cut each plank at the same angle. This is wrong, and you are about to discover the problem in a big way. The farther aft you go the deeper you are cutting into the waterway/nibbing strake/margin board. Eventually somewhere close to midships you will have to cut all the way through it. The purpose of nibbing is to avoid sharp pointed ends on the planks. These will tend to catch on ropes and other things dragged along the deck, and the plank tips will break off. And it is just easier to cut the nib than it is to try and match angles between the planks and margin boards exactly. As a rule of thumb, never cut more than half way through the margin board. In some cases an even shallower cut is called for. If the angle back along the margin board is less than 45 degrees (green lines - look closely) there is no nib and the plank is cut straight along the edge of the margin board. This is optional - it doesn't hurt to nib these planks too. If the angle is greater than 45 degrees the plank is always nibbed into the margin board. The width of the squared off part at the end of the plank (red line) is about 1/2 the plank width (I have seen examples where it was 1/3 the plank width). The angle of the nib at each plank is different. From the center of the plank the angle back is determined by where the edge of the full width plank meets the edge of the uncut margin board (dashed blue line). The nib cut (red line) runs from this point to the center of the plank at the squared-off end. Near midships the edge of the margin board is almost parallel to the edge of the plank. Here you will need to be creative. Nib the plank as usual at the end. Then cut back to where the plank edge is half way into the margin board. Then cut straight back along the plank edge, never cutting more than half way through the margin board. At the other end of the deck do just the opposite for the outer plank, and nib the remaining planks normally.

Those look beautiful! Still in awe what can be done these days, even just at home

Gets more depth with every layer 👍

Not sure I like the brackets. I might make a change.

Stanchions look awesome, Peter! Great job. 🏆

Worked a bit on the bowsprit. Rob

Here are the stern frames for HMB Endeavour, according to K H Marquardt. I really don't understand the "floating" upper timbers. They seem to be not anchored to the futtocks in the same frame, or at least, frame space. It would seem to leave a weak point in the hull at that level. Based on the station numbers below the keel, there are full seven full frames between 14 (the forward edge of my cross-section) and 20. I've built all of these frames in two standard laminations (and will deal with the window and port framing somehow later). Aft of 20 they are separated by the deadwood, canted to varying degrees. I have yet to build these. Any observations on this arrangement would be appreciated!

Looking Great Alan - you certainly are bringing your figures to life. OC.

Excellent rigging Kevin, wow! Fantastic job my friend!

No worries @Slowhand. I'll keep updating the spreadsheet as I go so hopefully you find it helpful. Or at least if something doesnt turn out well we can see which line or block!

Very nice ! I like the presentation!