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Been there having experienced the same issue Dave. Thankfully it has abated now; good luck with defeating the problem. cheers Pat

A great result, and excellent work on this SIB model Glen, my first thought was 'Oh my singed whiskers' - that would have been 'warm work' in the bow. Can't wait to see what idea you generate for your next extravaganza. cheers Pat

Started chapter 6, the stern work. I did cut the planks to fit right to the sides of the gun Wales. I know that you won't see that little bit once the inside Wales are done, but I'll know if I didn't fit it all the way. Luckily, the planking fit perfectly under, around and over the top of the gun ports; no notching needed. Did a little sanding, shaping and then painted. Not too tough. The hard stuff is next. I put the arrow in here because I wanted to call out the most difficult parts of sanding the stern down to the required 1/8 -3/32 thickness. I went with the1/8 thickness because 3/32 just seemed too thin. But the caution here is trying to shape the angled bottom of the stern posts, under the cannon ports, to all be the same size. Yeah, it's easy to sand down the large back stern face, but sanding down to stern posts at they angle back is tough. Maybe it's because I messed up the sanding and created a valley in those posts. So, I used a straight edge exacto knife, kind of looked like a chisel, and hand sanded the parts. The other difficult part was sanding the newly added planking right there in in the corner near the gun Wales. Hand sanded those too. And when I say hand sand, I mean squeezing my finger into the corner with sandpaper. But I got it all sanded to be smooth and equal. I'm sure I must have messed up those angled stern posts when I accidently sanded in a valley. So, A WORD OF CAUTION DOWN THERE. Guess we'll see just how bad I messed up once I cut the hole for the rudder. Fingers crossed.

I can't believe it hasn't been mentioned, but the build videos I have watched - and the basic tool videos out there - show heavy use of a 'nail punch'. Yeah, you can grow a third arm and hand and tap, tap, tap your heart away, but that will likely become quite the slog when building the first planking. My first wooden kit will be Vanguard Models 'HM Sherbourne'. It looks to be a great kit - and it has GUNS. I need guns. Guns are good😁. I was seriously looking at the Vanguard Models 'Grecian 1812' but folks around here kinda warned me off. She has great lines and she has guns. But, the rigging is complex and the hull has serious curves. Gonna wait on that one. BTW, ModelKitStuff created a great build playlist for the Sherbourne. He even dumbed it down for us Noob dummies since that was both what the kit is designed for and what he wanted to present. If I didn't need cold hard steel that Bluenose II looks amazing. Man, those lines are sleek.

The model (and us) will wait patiently, Dave. have a great holiday. John

Thanks John. I appreciate your comment. Super glue makes everything go fast, sometimes too fast. Since the photo was taken. I've gotten half of the planking done. Phil B

I am very interested in purchasing HMS Portland. Keep me informed.

She's coming along nicely, Phil. John

Hello Darren, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'. John

It was a great plan... Till, I started doing the work and realized only I only pre-painted only the front half of the sprue. Oh well... Also, I have to note that I have no clue what my thought process was. It's been some time since I was working the plastic and PE. Lots of jumping around. Lots of half finished steps. Ugh. But, finally drawing some 'X's through entire steps: I was thinking of drilling out the hatches in the command superstructure, but they are square. I have PE for them, but my sanity is just too important for me. My wife would definitely send me to the rubber room. How do you guys drill out square windows??? And, yeah, not quite done. Gotta let things dry a bit then get to the putty, then paint again. Then dry again. Then pick out some of the details before they get covered - or I forget about them...

All the back stays on the starboard side are tied on , and I am happy with them. So with that done I spun her around to the portside, which happens to also be the display side. Tieing and seizing lines is fun, but the kid in side wants to play, lol. Kurt ⚒️ say, Stays focus lol. The planes call for these blocks on the main fore stay, the boat part was added by a sharpie lol 😆 I got all the parts together for this little boat adventure, I going to glue them in place for sure. If you guys could see how much fun I am having, I'd be arrested lol. On to the portside stays. Knocklouder 😁 Kurt ⚒️

Yessiree! Thanks for the tag, Bob. I'm on board and ready to watch the action. Looks like you are off to a nice start, Kenny. Now you know why I do all my SIB hulls in laminated layers. Learned it from this kit.

Don't throw any cut offs away, lol. I had just enough, Artesania Latina give you some to spare. Just saying , save all small pieces for above doors and things. Coming together ‼️ Bob M.

Deck planks are .5mm thick almost paper thin. They are used on different decks and to cover the cabins. Hope there is enough. Looked at Artesania Latina website and don't see any additional wood for sale.

Great start Kenny, this little build was great fun to build, lots of great logs and builders for her here. @Glen McGuirehas to be reminded once in awhile to follow builds , but I sure he will want to follow this one. He was very instrumental in helping me build mine . Good luck, tagging along. Bob M

He always does, he is amazing, @KennyH78 I see you started your Hannah, hang on to @Glen McGuire for advice on the Hannah , the Hannah-SIB crew were a fun bunch of guys glad I got to know some of them Knocklouder 😁 PS sib builds go in the scratch build part,just saying lol. Bob M.

We all have made similar mistakes. I find that a hair drier often will soften the glue to make it easier to remove

Glen, as others have said; hitting the “wow” button doesn’t convey the amount of awe factor for your build. This is truly exceptional! How are you going to top this build?

How thick was the piece you added? I’m going to increase the thickness of the part.

I continue tying the deadeyes. Mizzen mast..🔥 After measuring and tying the deadeyes to the shrouds, I glued the masts.. "Tackle" and Deadeyes tied cleanly. Just need to adjust the height..💥

Bob I'm in the middle of building the AVS too. I have found that I get a lot of great information from @CiscoH AVS build log, I have found him very responsive to messages via this web site. He is ahead of me in the build, since I have taken a break from the build. Also, I've found great detail instructions from Luck St Shipyards, https://lauckstreetshipyard.com/ the instructions do cost but I have found them indispensable. Also, I'm also building the MS Phantom, but it is on hold while I focus on the AVS. Please do post some pictures of your Phantom.

After about a 3 month hiatus due to flagging confidence that I could successfully do the the delicate work coming up properly, we are ready to continue. Pic 1 shows Leon glued in the bottle with all the extensions of the stays coming out the neck. The work of gluing the hull down was clumsy and not well done but at least it's finished. Now we are ready for the final adjustments of the stays and braces. I usually reduce the size of these pictures but I think the larger size is useful to see the rigging more clearly. I had a plan for how to proceed but that plan changed at every step. The first step was to tighten the forestay, put a drop of glue where it entered the anchor deck and then cut it off where it left the stemhead. This worked beautifully. I had planned to continue with the fore topmast stay but realized that structurally it made more sense to do both the mainstay and the main cap-stay because they end at the lower foremast which was now stabilized by the forestay. There was a problem, however, because the 4th main port shroud had apparently been compromised when the upper hull was glued to the lower hull so the main mast could not rise to its proper position. The only remedy I could think of was to cut that shroud at the waterline and hope I could glue it back in place when the rest of the rigging was done. Having cut this shroud I fitted the mainstay. I unskillfully cut that stay where it left the lower mainmast leaving a tuft of thread about 1/16" long which hopefully I'll figure out a way of removing later. Then I fitted the main cap-stay and cut that off pretty cleanly. Now I figured to fit the main topmast stay since it ends at the lower mainmast cap and thus is also stabilized by the forestay. Unfortunately, the lower topsail yard is also attached to the lower mainmast cap and I was afraid that a drop of glue for the main topmast stay might immobilize the lower topsail yard. So I decided to fit the upper topsail yard (which is rigidly attached to the lower topsail yard) before working on the main topmast stay. Since I was fixing the 3 lower yards it seemed reasonable to fit their braces also. At this point, I figured another photo, Pic 2, might be interesting. The easily seen differences between these two photos ae 1-- The missing 2 extensions of the 2 lower mainstays leading out of the neck and 2-- The correct orientation of the foreyard. The braces for the foresail and the lower topsail were taken from one yardarm, down to a hole in the bulwark, across the deck in a loose bight to a hole in the opposite bulwark and up to the opposite yardarm. After the yard was glued to the mast, a hook was introduced through the neck, back to the bight which was then pulled tight. The brace threads were glued to the holes on the outside of the bulwark and then cutoff on the inside of the bulwark. Also visible is a ring of copper wire around the martingale. This will be removed later after all the threads are out of the neck of the bottle. I'll talk about the tools used for these operations later.

You're right, JJ, on the starboard side I used the whole bottom apron. And I made a less visible adjustment - widening the bottom step for the first four frames. I took a piece from the scrap board from which the apron was cut so that the color and grain direction would match, and glued it with transparent glue so that it is not even visible. Maybe it will be sanded down during the final fairing anyway, but just in case.

Unfortunately as you can see in my photo I have the 3 wires coming up through the deck. One at each mast. So in my case I guess I will just include a resistor in each little box with the LED. I still need to come up with the size and design for the 18 (6 each mast) little boxes.

Congrats on reaching this stage. This is a very impressive kit and I am sure there are going to be some great models built with it.