Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48

[GLakie]

Nice job on those masts and yards Brian!  And only one re-do.  Impressive!!  

[GuntherMT]

Opinion poll time!

 

Assuming that I make the U shaped mount the right size (i.e. about the same size as the 'square' mount and both of them slightly narrower), which style of swivel gun mount should I go with?  Square, or U?

 

[Cabbie]

U shape definitely looks better

[GLakie]

I would probably go with the one they show in the plans, if it is shown. If not, I think the U-shape would have been easier for their blacksmith at the time to make. 

[GuntherMT]

Thanks for all the input everyone.

 

I would probably go with the one they show in the plans, if it is shown. If not, I think the U-shape would have been easier for their blacksmith at the time to make. 

 

The plans for the swivels are crap.  Specifically they are brittania cast metal guns with a post sticking straight out of the bottom of the gun to mount them into a hole.  I've tossed the guns and already installed brass tubes for the brass mounting rod to drop into.  There is no way that I'm just soldering a rod straight to the bottom of my pretty brass cannons.  

[ortho85]

Hi Brian,

 

Firstly congratulations on the whole build. I especially like the index you've put at the beginning of the log.  Very helpful to others.

 

For the mount, I initially preferred the square one, but on review I think the U shape would look better if made the same height as you've done the square shaped one.

 

Cheers,

 

Brett

[GLakie]

Thanks for all the input everyone.

 

 

The plans for the swivels are crap.  Specifically they are brittania cast metal guns with a post sticking straight out of the bottom of the gun to mount them into a hole.  I've tossed the guns and already installed brass tubes for the brass mounting rod to drop into.  There is no way that I'm just soldering a rod straight to the bottom of my pretty brass cannons.  

I completely agree about those brittania cast parts, so in that case, yeah the U-shape seems like a good choice.

[dgbot]

I would go with a U. It looks better

David B

[mrangus]

Not knowing anything about history of how these were built, I agree with the others in that the U swivel looks really good.

[GuntherMT]

The people have spoken!

 

 

I have to remake one of them because somehow the hole on one side is way off.  It must have slipped in the jig, no idea how, but I'll just call it practice, and the jig is still clamped in the mill, so not a huge deal.

 

 

[thomaslambo]

Nice job on all the fabrication...and the mast work/spars look awesome    

Edited August 11, 2015 by thomaslambo

[Bobstrake]

Your masts and spars are beautifully shaped and equipped, good examples for me to aspire towards.

[Mahuna]

Very nice and very precise.  Please show us your jig.

 

You're getting closer to the world of scratch building all the time.

[antanasp]

Very nice and very interesting buil. Thanks for sharing. Your experience will be useful for me. I look forward to continuation.

 

Best Regards,  Antanas

[GuntherMT]

Zoltan,

 

Replying from my phone, so pardon any typos.

 

I printed out the cannon PDF from the Syren page and compared the gun sizes. I am fairly sure I used the 1/64 scale 6 pounders, as they were almost identical in size to the kit guns, which are 1/48 scale 4 pounders.I then selected the appropriate carriage from the list. Probably the smallest one.

 

I got the following things from Syren:

Cannon and carriages

Swivel guns (smallest)

Blocks & Dead-eyes

Rigging line

Hooks (see cannon rigging)

Cleats

 

I think that's everything, but I'll try to remember to check when I get home tonight.

 

Feel free to ask any specific questions and I'll be happy to provide any answers that I can.

 

I'm quite certain that my little ship would look much worse without Chuck's great products.

[GuntherMT]

Hi Brian

 

Just catching up on your build again, great job on the masts and booms. You must have a little milling machine as the slots for your sheaves are just great. Also just love your swivel mounts, ENJOY.

 

Regards Lawrence

Lawrence,

 

Yes, I have a Proxxon mill.It has been fairly handy a few times!

[GLakie]

What page did you find that on?  The small size blocks go down to 2 mm found here: http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/boxwood-rigging-blocks.php#!/2MM-Single-Sheave-BOXWOOD-Rigging-Blocks-50-per-pack/p/24609793/category=5764703

Edited August 11, 2015 by GLakie

[GuntherMT]

Thanks for pointing him to the right place George.

 

Zoltan,

 

I am using an incredibly precise system for choosing the block sizes.  I call this system "That looks about right".  

 

One of the problems I have with the kit blocks, is that for some parts (like the cannon blocks), they are massively oversized and look terrible.  For the cannon tackle, I used 3/32" single blocks from Syren.

 

The Swivel Guns are the 23/32" size.

The Main Guns are 1-11/64" size (1/64 scale 6 pounders).

The carriages are the ones for the 1-11/64" barrels.

The hooks used on the cannon rigging are 3mm.

The cleats are 7mm.

The dead-eyes are 5mm.

 

I realize that not everyone can do this, but what I did was simply purchase a package of every single size of single and double blocks, from the smallest up to 3/16" (I think), and as I proceed with the model, I'm selecting the blocks based on my previously mentioned precision block size selection system.  I'm sure Chuck likes my system!  

 

I did the same thing with the cleats and the dead-eyes, which I just compared to the kit parts and selected the closest match. 

 

For the rope, I simply looked at the parts list, and ordered the closest size to the rope that's listed in the kit, but always sizing down, as in general I feel that the rope on most model ship kits is oversized for scale.  I then ordered a few extra in the most common sizes, and a few of each in-between size so I can again just re-size as I go when I feel like something just doesn't look right.  For quantities, I used 20' per package, even though I know you get more than that, so I would err on the side of having too much, rather than not enough.

 

Be aware, that even though I am downsizing the rigging, the blocks will still need to be drilled to accept whatever size rope you are using, so you'll want a good selection of tiny drill bits from #80 up to #60 or so.  The most common ones I use are in the #70-#75 range.

Edited August 11, 2015 by GuntherMT

[GuntherMT]

Very nice and very precise.  Please show us your jig.

 

You're getting closer to the world of scratch building all the time.

 

Frank, I'll get some pictures of the jig for you - I didn't take any yesterday, as it's not terribly interesting, but it did turn out to work pretty well.

[Mahuna]

Hi Brian:

 

Very good point on opening the holes of the blocks with an appropriate sized drill.  I do this before rigging each block, before the block goes on the ship.

[GLakie]

I'm completely with you on picking up most of the sizes Brian, and few bags of each, because most of those sizes will end up getting used someplace anyway, sooner or later.  All the parts, including the rope in these kits is nothing short of disgusting. I'm still looking for a couple wooden 3/4" x 10-spoke steering wheels for my kit. 

[GuntherMT]

For Frank.  Jig stuff!

 

So when it came to making the yokes for the swivel guns, one of the biggest challenges to my thinking, would be how to drill the holes through the soft brass evenly so that the trunions would be level, and consistent.  Secondary issue, making the 'U' shape consistently the same size.

 

After messing with a few different techniques I decided that really the only satisfactory solution was some sort of a jig, so I started playing with wood to make something, and what I eventually landed on was this solution which used some of the left over bits from the boxwood I used for the masting.  I used the boxwood instead of scrap basswood because of it's hardness.

 

Step 1 (no photo, just a terrible paint drawing) was to mark the depth and width of the "U" shaped hole that I wanted as the outside edge of the jig former on the end of a piece of boxwood.  I then found a cutting bit for the mill that was the right width, and placed the wood flat on the mill floor in the vise, and simply ran the mill into the wood creating a 'slot' on one edge of the wood, with a natural "U" shape due to the round nature of the cutting bit.  

 

Here is a paint drawing illustrating what I mean, as seen looking down on the cut.

 

I then took a smaller piece of boxwood (again, scrap that was cut off after shaping the masts) and milled the end to a rectangular shape that would barely fit inside of the above slot, filing it so that it was the exact same thickness, and then sanding enough to allow for the brass strap to fit along both sides at the same time.  I then used a file and filed the inside of the "U" shape into this piece.

 

Finally, I glued another piece of boxwood on top of the slot I'd cut into the first piece.  Bam, jig!

 

I laid the jig on it's side and clamped it into the mill vise.  The "T" on the insert piece is so that I would have the same side 'up' on every use for consistency.

 

Using a small pair of the pliers with the round ends for making rings, I formed a small "U" in the brass strap, made sure it was as perfectly even as possible, and then stuck the "U" into the jig.

 

The insert piece is then pushed firmly into the jig inside of the brass "U" to force it to shape.

 

The mill head was positioned to drill into the center of the brass strip, and while holding the insert firmly, run through the jig and the brass.  This was the touchy part, as if I moved the insert I could have easily snapped the drill, and I only have one bit this size.  Need to get some more, I use this size a lot (#74).

 

Remove the insert, which usually pulls the brass strip out with it.  When it doesn't, just pull it out with the long end.

 

All that's left is to trim the ends with a Xuron precision end cutter, and solder it to the base rod.

 

And that's my super-amazing scrap-wood "U" jig.  

[GuntherMT]

I bought swiss pear, but I don't think there's a wrong answer.  

 

I'll probably buy boxwood next time just to have them both.

[Mahuna]

Very well thought out.  An engineering marvel!   

[DocBlake]

Nice work, Brian.  What kind of mill do you have?  Are you happy with it or would you buy something else if you had it to do over?  I'm in the market for one, but am just beginning to research it.

[GuntherMT]

It's a Proxxon MF70 Dave.  I'm happy with it for what it is and what I paid for it (I got what I believe was a very good deal on it used).

 

My preference, and what I will have eventually is a Sherline, but they are not easy to find used, and whether new or used, they are considerably more money than the Proxxon (new or used).  

 

The MF70 does a good job for me, but it's not really even in the same class as the Sherline for either solidity or variety of available accessories.

 

So eventually the Proxxon will be replaced, just depends on when it works for me financially (or a good deal shows up on a used one).  It's on the list will all the fine Byrnes tools!

[DocBlake]

Thanks, Brian!

[GuntherMT]

Since the last opinion poll went so well, time for another one!

 

I'm now working on the base, inspired by Mobsie (sp?) and another more recent build whose name is completely escaping me at the moment (sorry man).

 

I'm wondering how many hull supports I should add.

 

Option 1, just the center one.

Option 2, add two more at the positions marked.

Option 3, all locations.

 

 

Thoughts?

[GuntherMT]

Everything is glued at this point except the bitt in front of the mast which won't go on until it's needed for rigging as some rigging needs to belay to an eyebolt that's almost underneath of it.

[donrobinson]

Option 2 would look good Brian. I like the jig you made for drilling, great idea. And by the way I took your advice and bought a Sherline mill now I just have to learn how to use it.