bigcreekdad Posted January 5, 2015 Share #1 Posted January 5, 2015 I'm trying to cut some hull planks out of cherry. I have tightened down the rip fence to get the width I want, but when I feed a strip of cherry to thin the width the strip begins to be squeezed to the point I cannot push it further. When using a .30 Thurston blade, the blade would literally be bent outward if I tried to force it a bit. When going up to the .40, the strip pinches down so tight I can go no further. The cherry is around 1/8th of an inch in width. I gotta be doing something wrong. Any advice? GLakie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted January 5, 2015 Share #2 Posted January 5, 2015 I have no working knowledge of the Byrnes Saw.. ok, that's the disclaimer but I had a similar issue on a different brand. Is the fence on straight to the blade? Is the wood going under the fence? Some folks have glue a piece of wood so it's flush to the table. GLakie 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWdiverTodd Posted January 5, 2015 Share #3 Posted January 5, 2015 Hi Bigcreek, At first blush I would think you are adding pressure into the side of the blade. This usually happens when you are pushing stock through the saw with pressure added past the leading edge of the blade. The reason people do this is to keep the stock tight against the fence, but in essence you are pressing (or pinching) the stock into the blade. The following link has lots of good ideas for using the saw: http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php Another possibility is that the wood has a strong counter grain and would be better cut from the other end of the sheet. -Todd GLakie 1 Quote Current build US Brig Syren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith_W Posted January 5, 2015 Share #4 Posted January 5, 2015 Hi Bigcreekdad, I am guessing that you have your strip against the fence - as you advance your plank, the strip gets stuck between the saw and the fence? The solution is to have the wide part of your plank against the fence so that the ripped strip falls freely away (i.e. the opposite of what you are doing). This is Bill Sorensen's table saw guide: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/MillingScaleLumberRev-01%20(1).pdf He describes your problem and a work-around on page 13. On page 17-20 there is another example of how to rip thin strips without experiencing the problem you describe. GLakie 1 Quote Regards, Keith 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLakie Posted January 5, 2015 Share #5 Posted January 5, 2015 I might be off the mark here, and without a pic of the piece you're trying to cut, there's no way to be sure, but it sounds like you're trying to run an already cut strip through the saw to shave it a bit. It might just be too small to work with. Have you tried just cutting a new piece? Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap'n Rat Fink Posted January 5, 2015 Share #6 Posted January 5, 2015 Here you go this should help you out...... hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php mario Quote Thank You all... Mario "Each of us is a mixture of some good and some not so good qualities. In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things ... We should refrain from making judgments just because a fella happens to be a dirty, rotten SOB(biscuit) " My Builds.... BETTEAU WAR OF 1812 BOUNTY LAUNCH(bashed) CHESAPEAKE BAY FLATTIE THE SEA of GALILEE BOAT VICTORIAN STEAM LAUNCH(bashed) HOWARD CHAPELLE's CRABBING SKIFF LADY KATHRINE 1812 SCHOONER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reklein Posted January 6, 2015 Share #7 Posted January 6, 2015 Sounds to me like your fence is not truly parrallel to the blade. Try finding a tune up guide for your saw. BILL Quote Bill, in Idaho Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015 Next Model Shipways Syren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyj Posted January 6, 2015 Share #8 Posted January 6, 2015 Another thing I found that helps is to make sure the blade is not too high. I usually keep my blade set just 1/8" higher than the wood I'm cutting. GLakie 1 Quote Rusty "So Long For Now" Current Builds: HMS Winchelsea 1/48 Duchess of Kingston Completed Build Logs: USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross Section, Cutter Cheerful, Queen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted January 6, 2015 Share #9 Posted January 6, 2015 One other concept from Keith that some of us using is an offset on the fence such that it ends just past the front of the blade. Some use wood, some use metal. Here's pics of what I use and with the right blade, I can strip off 1/32" strips : flying_dutchman2, janos, Rustyj and 2 others 5 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjdale Posted January 6, 2015 Share #10 Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) Hi Bigcreekdad, The problem you are experiencing is blade binding and is a common issue - you're not doing anything wrong per se. The issue is caused mainly because these thin slitting blades are a uniform thickness - that is, the teeth are the same width as the body of the blade, which means that the teeth don't give you any extra clearance from the blade once they've cut the wood. (Hope that makes sense). There are essentially two solutions available. The first is to add an additional fence that extends from the front of the table to around the centre of the blade (or just short), as in Mark Taylor's description above. This gives the cut strip some extra space after passing through the blade. This is what I did and it works pretty well most of the time. I still had some trouble ripping 1/4" stock. The second solution is to add some "back taper" to your fence. To do this, lock the front of the fence in position, and then push the rear of the fence away from the blade slightly before tightening and locking in place. This will take a little trial and error to get the amount of back taper just right, and may need a little adjustment to get the desired milled width. Once again, this is giving the cut strip that little extra space. I know that this is the method that Jeff Hayes of HobbyMill uses (used) for all of his production runs. The other thing to watch for, and has already been mentioned, is the run of the grain. Sometimes just flipping the stock over and cutting from the other end helps. Hope this helps. PS One extra thought. If none of the above work for you, try going back to the 4" carbide tipped blade. It is more wasteful in that it cuts with a wider kerf, but because of the wider teeth in relation to the blade body, you shouldn't experience the binding problem. Edited January 6, 2015 by gjdale cg451 and GLakie 2 Quote Grant ____________________________________________________ Current builds: African Queen - Radio Control / Live Steam Previous builds: The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama), Hannah - Ship in a Bottle, NRG Capstan Project, 1869 Allerton Steam Pumper, Medway Longboat , Alfa Romeo Spider Gran Touring (Pocher) , Da Vinci Flying Machine, 1949 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout - Dumas - Radio, Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742 - Cross Section - Scratchbuild, HMS Victory (Mamoli 1:90), Cutty Sark, Armed Pinnace, Bounty, Santa Maria At another place: Stephenson's Rocket (OcCre 1:24) (click the title to follow the link) In the Gallery: Lancia Armata 1803, Bomb Vessel Granada, 1742 Cross Section, 1949 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSM Posted January 6, 2015 Share #11 Posted January 6, 2015 I had a similar problem with my Preac saw, even though the fence and blade were as parallel as I could see. Similarly to what others have done in previous posts, I put a piece of tape on the edge of the fence where the wood would contact the fence, and ended the tape before the center of the blade. This gives a bit of room for the cut piece to bend away from the blade soon after it is cut and doesn't bind anymore. You don't need much room, the thickness of the tape was enough. Also, try rubbing a thin layer of beeswax on the spinning blade to lubricate it. Quote From about as far from the ocean as you can get in North America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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