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DelF

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About DelF

  • Birthday 07/13/1951

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    Male
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    Nottinghamshire, UK

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  1. Hi Richmond. Keith Julier wrote about three volumes of the Period Ship Handbook. Each was a compilation of articles he wrote for Model Boat magazine (if memory serves - I haven’t access to my library just now). Each article describes how he built a popular kit. The Kit Builders Manual brings together the techniques he describes in the other books. I found all the books very useful as a beginner - in fact I was inspired to buy Panart's Royal Caroline after reading the chapter on the kit. I found Julier’s style very helpful for a novice, with plenty of photos (albeit in black and white) and clear descriptions of necessary steps and potential pitfalls. I also liked the fact that he suggests minor modifications you can make to enhance the build. For example, on the Caroline he shows how you can use the kit material to make the bilge pumps more authentic. This certainly whetted my appetite for further “kit bashing”! In summary, I would certainly recommend the Kit Builders Manual as a good starting point. If you have a particular model or models in mind to build, let me know and I’ll check my copies of the other books to see if they feature. Derek
  2. This thread has prompted me to plan another visit to Greenwich, not only to the NMM but also to the adjacent Royal Observatory to see Harrison's chronometers. I was last at the NMM 13 years ago for the 200th anniversary of Trafalgar, and it was totally different to the museum others have described - full of the most interesting and well organised displays - especially the models section and of course the Nelson exhibits. Mike Y's description in an earlier post sounded much closer to my experience, and I'm glad to hear that things are apparently back the way they were. Derek
  3. Saw your message this morning, downloaded the journal, skimmed through it, liked it, and decided to join the NRG for the first time. Great stuff! Derek
  4. DelF

    What have you received today?

    I've had my eye on this for some time - saw the revised and corrected 1993 edition on ebay for a reasonable price. It's not just the most comprehensive volume on knots, it's full of witty drawings and interesting information on the history and uses of knots, including very extensive sections on nautical usage. I've only had a brief look through but I love it already! Derek
  5. I live in the UK and received my book today just over a week after placing the order - excellent service. Derek
  6. DelF

    Syren Serv-o-Matic

    Following on from Jim's idea above, I tried the following method for producing a length of served line with an eye at each end: One piece of dowel is a tight fit in the RH gear and the other is a sliding fit in the left gear. In this crude but effective first go, the LH dowel is kept in place at the desired position by a combination of a rubber sleeve and a small clip. You simply wind a piece of line between the hooks - as many times as needed to give the right final size - then serve as normal. Here's the result: As you can see, I messed up one of the eyes (my eyes let me down and I trimmed the wrong threads!) but as the eyes are hidden under the bowsprit I let that one go. Just shows how versatile the Serv-o-matic is. Derek
  7. DelF

    Power versus Hand Tools?

    My first model was made entirely with the use of hand tools, and I'm sure if I'd carried on like that I'd have continued to enjoy the hobby. However I've always believed (to misquote Robert Louis Stevenson) that the journey is at least as important as the destination. Over the last 10 years or so that I've been ship modelling I've really enjoyed learning new skills and techniques, and getting to grips with new hand and power tools. On occasion I've had to justify the cost of a new machine by convincing the family finance watchdog that it would come in handy round the house. To my surprise, that has actually proven true on a significant number of occasions - for example turning up replacement parts for showers and garage door mechanisms on my lathe and mill (Chuck's Rope Rocket and Serv-o-matic were harder to justify on those grounds, but fortunately much less expensive!). Each to his and her own though - you only need to look through this forum to appreciate that there is no 'best' way to create great models. Derek
  8. Oops! Apologies for my presumption. It’s probably surprising that any of us obsessive hobbyists actually have partners that are prepared to put up with us. Derek
  9. Brilliant! Has the Admiral noticed you’ve commandeered her ironing table, amongst other things?!
  10. DelF

    UK Timber Suppliers

    I can vouch for the quality of the boxwood supplied by Workshop Heaven. I bought a small billet some time ago (cost £8.90 incl. p&p) and it's the real deal - genuine close-grained boxwood. I've found that a small amount goes a long way, although to be fair I tend to use it for small fittings rather than for larger stuff such as spars and frames. I've still got some of the billet left: It's probably worth reminding folk that antique boxwood rules still appear regularly on ebay for as little as £3 to £4 including postage. I've bought several over the years, finding them great for blocks. This cost just £4: It's surprising how many blocks you can get from a 2' folding rule. Derek
  11. Thanks to both of you for your replies. I'll give acrylic paint a go, using Frankie's described method.
  12. I'd be grateful for any advice folk might have about the practicality of using acrylic paint instead of acrylic ink to dye rigging. Having read advice on the Forum from Mahuna and others, I decided to experiment with acrylic ink mixed with isopropyl alcohol. This has worked well and, like Mahuna, I've decided to use various combinations of black, brown and raw sienna for the standing and running rigging. Incidentally, I'm using DMC Cordonnet thread spun up on Chuck's Rope Rocket. My problem is sourcing ink at a reasonable price. I've found economy size bottles of black and brown, but raw sienna ink only seems to be available in small 30 ml/1 fl. oz. bottles. However I've found raw sienna acrylic paint in 150 ml bottles for the same price as the much smaller ink bottle. I've googled the difference between acrylic paint and ink without much success - from what I can gather the ink has finer particles and greater fluidity which makes it a better choice for airbrushing. However other sources say paint can be used to dye fabrics. Before I shell out on some paint and test it for myself, does anyone have experience with using it to dye rigging successfully, and are there any specific techniques involved? Thanks Derek
  13. I agree that shipping and other import duties from the US can be a pain (otherwise I’d buy up a lot more of Syren's stock!). However books aren’t usually too bad. I’ve just ordered the Jim Roberts book from the US via amazon.com for $14.99 + $4.44 shipping to the UK - just over £14 total. Not as cheap as yours though! Derek
  14. DelF

    Hello from spain to everybody

    Many thanks - I look forward to seeing your build log.
  15. DelF

    Hello from spain to everybody

    I agree with everyone else Javier - your work is superb. I’d love to see more examples, and details of your construction techniques (I showed my wife your pictures and she is now asking why I can’t make my models as small as yours as they would take up so much less space in the house!). Best wishes Derek

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