md1400cs

Wasa by md1400cs - Corel - 1:75

1,517 posts in this topic

EJ,

 

Still laughing  about that your 1/1 photo from your previous post. So thought that I would be a bit immature (my wife swears that I still am (:-))

 

So here is one looking up ha ha - iPhone was none too pleased - too close

IMG_6129.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, md1400cs said:

EJ,

 

Still laughing  about that your 1/1 photo from your previous post. So thought that I would be a bit immature (my wife swears that I still am (:-))

 

So here is one looking up ha ha - iPhone was none too pleased - too close

IMG_6129.jpg

For some reason every admiral thinks that their hubbys are immature,interesing conspiracy :huh:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is awesome! :D

I try not to think of it as being immature but instead maintaining childlike happiness and wonder at the world around me.... 😂😀 

 

Of course I am currently rolling around on the floor with my puppy and trying to type this on my phone so maybe the Admirals are on to something.... 😜

 

Im glad I could bring laughter into your build. It is always a good relief as I know I sometimes find myself stressing a little too much when building. Good to relax! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Michael,

At every new photo I admire your progress on perfect details...

As I had said earlier, the MOST perfect item on your ship will be probably the last item added at the end...

CaptainSteve, EJ_L and md1400cs like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mates,

 

Continuing with the mizenmast shroud rigging as a “test start”. This area is all new to me. Ratlines look ok – but will get better. Yes - as has been SO noted very repetitive indeed. And I’ve barely started. So;

 Removed those totally wrong futtock plates and added hooks (to be painted flat black).

 But the following bit is confusing; need to think this bit out.

 Installed the first futtock stave. Should be tarred, but left it as is just to highlight details. But here is where is gets more involved.  I believe that my futtock shrouds are too large. Should have used a smaller diameter rope. Attaching these three shrouds to the stave will make for too “thick” a look (after spooling/tying these to the shrouds).

I think that I will remove a strand from each at the point of attachment; then wrap them over the staves. Also note the 1/10th photo (during its construction) it appears that these shrouds should also be split and attached in two places. Noted that this photo is for the main mast. Hmmm. I will do that for the center of the three shrouds that I am presently working on. 

 Then again, I may (since I have to remove all of those lower cap plates just re-rope these first three and start again. Just sharing my frustrations (J)))

 

Cheers,

1.thumb.jpg.1f5f47a933e4e9243200a6b0d1899919.jpg2.thumb.jpg.b0a35e17867d321baa52d70bb23221ca.jpg3.thumb.jpg.ac9991241ca6f7274fd229b75fec0b26.jpg4.thumb.jpg.a2e382bfe2b84fbe42ae1443a0d5152e.jpg5.thumb.jpg.a20f1d8628e8af1d22d61c904b516b4c.jpg6.thumb.jpg.f78b888225dbf91d0ad1192eda053feb.jpg7.thumb.jpg.a520ee06282d410a7d1535467976b21a.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mates,

 

Thanks for the nice comments and "likes" - Dave here are some poss. answers for your question;

 

Why VASA Capsized


In the treatise by Curt Borgenstam, Anders Sandstroem "Why VASA Capsized" (AB Grafisk Press, Stockholm 1995, ISBN 91-85268-60-7) the reasons are outlined, after a careful investigation of the wreckage and the historic archives. They concluded:
1. Too many design changes during building were made. The VASA was probably laid down as a "small" ship and completed as a "large" ship, with two gun decks instead of only one as originally planned.
2. The shipbuilding master Henrik Hybertsson became serously ill and died a year before the ship was completed. During his illness he had to delegate the supervision of the project to his assistant Hein Jacobsson. As a result the leadership on the shipbuilding side was very weak. Jacobsson had not even been informed that a stability test carried out in Admiral Fleming’s presence had indicated that the VASA was unstable.
3. By far too little ballast (only about half of the weight needed, as turned out when investigating the wreckage) had been put into the ship. That was ordered by Admiral Klas Fleming, who resented more ballast, as this would have brought the lower line of gun ports too close to the water, and the military usability of the ship would have been hampered.

 

THEN ( my addition - paraphrasing from other sources) based on the above there were also gusty winds that day, the ship badly caught such a gust and listed to one side. This allowed the lower gun deck (with open doors) to ingest too much water. 

Backer, donrobinson and fmodajr like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mates.

More FYI

 

Also the very cold, blackish, very low levels of damaging ultraviolet light, and low salt content of the waters of the Baltic Sea within Stockholm Harbor minimized the amounts of sea life that would normally consume the ship.

Over the centuries the silt kept rising around and protectively covering the ship as well. And the heavily polluted 17th century water also prevented an infestation of wood-eating “shipworm” parasites.

 

Ironically enough the Vasa is today facing a potential “second death”. It is very slowly decaying inside the museum.

 

Copied/pasted:

 

In 2000, signs of deterioration sprang up on the ship’s surface. A new study published July 6 in Biomacromolecules shows that the ship’s wooden hull has significantly weakened, due to decay of the wood’s structural fibers. The Vasa wood is about 40 percent weaker than regular oak wood, and has become very acidic.

“We found a very clear connection between low pH, high degradation, and a large decrease in mechanical strength,” said study co-author Ingela Bjurhager, a mechanical engineer at Sweden’s University of Uppsala.

 

More copied/pasted:

 

In 2004, the museum upgraded its climate-control system to keep the relative humidity stable, as fluctuating humidity could lead to changes in the shape and weight of the ship. Efforts are also underway to replace the corroding steel bolts that were inserted in the ship during the 1960s with improved stainless steel ones.

The Vasa does not have an immediate risk of structural failure, the researchers concluded. Still, the ship deforms a few millimeters every year. Given the extent of the wood atrophy, “It’s sort of a little bit too late to do anything,” said Bjurhager, who is focusing instead on preventing further deformation. Her team is currently working on a computer model of the ship so they can design a new support structure.

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi mates,

 

Anton T, and costeo - You are so kind –thanks so much for your thoughts

 =======================

 Almost back-to-back updates, this one is small but there was a lot of needed learning. This small bit took almost four hours to figure out and execute. Hmmmm.

 Decided, rather than removing the already attached Futtock shrouds (used Chuck’s .018s his .012s would have been too thin.

 --------------------------------------

 So did the following

 1-2) unspooled the center futtock shroud at the stave. Wrapped it around the stave separating the three “threads, then re spooled them between the shroud to add a bit of glue at the joint.

1.thumb.jpg.f6be967169f2a37119617f6bb0676bdf.jpg2.thumb.jpg.ae542bcfe8cd8bab5c853b4183413a9f.jpg

 

3) removed the third ply from the shroud and attached one to each side of the shroud at the ratline.

3.thumb.jpg.781b78882bc0175603bae3c2186651fd.jpg

 

4-5-6) did the same for the other two end shrouds also removing one strand. After wrapping around the shroud scale “looked” ok.

4.thumb.jpg.8467039e902ef9f7c262ee2833ecb5a9.jpg5.thumb.jpg.c16237d0996c836d1f2961c9d75912a0.jpg6.thumb.jpg.8e28b2f2b499a2a036b7e6bf0ae27eb7.jpg

 

7-8-9) secured the mizzen backstay.

7.thumb.jpg.8da0e3db93f98c2c00de9640a519a0f6.jpg8.thumb.jpg.44e48c1ac93e09d988331c9dcc161bca.jpg9.thumb.jpg.13eb4d46633a82694304c686d5f86ca5.jpg

 

10-11) Now onto the lower mainmast shrouds, BUT the dilemma starts. Looked at the 1/1 for guidance, for the mizzen shrouds, then noticed the 1/10th where the work looked much neater then “finally saw” the difference. Hmmm?

10.thumb.jpg.5bbca8fc59d04435610c82a9ee8a6924.jpg58d07633b91ba_11.thumb.jpg.35701fc90449cad3c3a79dd399ea29a8.jpg

 

12-13) went back to my picture bible (what I have been modeling so far. Then read/looked at Anderson – either way it seems is “ok”.

58d0766421e97_12Peterson.thumb.jpg.4a4ccb9403198ef5ff08ac0c9a5f9dd2.jpg13.thumb.jpg.0a84274baa76cf6e7c3449a07bd189f9.jpg

 

 

Certainly the 1/10th method would be so much less work, but having already done all the topmasts, the bowsprit area, and the mizzen on one side the Peterson way – I will probably need to continue with the extra work for all of the lower shrouds.

 

PS: I’m not even totally comfortable with the work that I have done tying off the ropes around the shrouds - so dilemma indeed. I assume that ALL “finishing off” as Anderson calls it should be the same for the entire ship?

 

PS: Part of the problem is that I used lines that are probably too large for this area. Though the museum 1/1 seems to use a “thick” rope. Again hmmm

 

As always thanks for your kind thoughts and visits,

 

Cheers,

 

EJ_L, catopower, Karleop and 4 others like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would think that in practice there would be discrepancies in exactly how ropes were tied off from crew to crew based on the instructions from the bosun. I would think though that while differences would be found between ships, that the same practice would be used throughout the same ship. So I would say, stick with the way you have started so they all look the same the same. Unless your bosun was killed in action and replaced midway through by another who wanted to change the existing practices... :P

CaptainSteve likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

EJ,

 

Thanks for your correct thoughts. I came to the same conclusion. I would also regret it as well – on the back-side.

=================

Then (ha ha) decided to speak directly with the Admiral, - go right to the top- explaining all of the extra work that this would require, with the same results. I was told, with an unceremonious response to “return to work, or I would be put into the brig”.

 

It was then also pointed out to me why, after so many years I am still pounding nails, cutting planks, hanging shrouds instead of enjoying tea in a captain’s quarters; Low energy seamen…..it turns out is my fate.

 

Cheers,

 

 

CaptainSteve and EJ_L like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mates,

 

Got myself into a bit of a mess. As I’ve mentioned this is my second build. My Santa Maria so many years ago, by comparison, was a walk in the park, even for me a first time builder.

 Well as I have been really learning so much about rigging this Vasa I realize now, in retrospect, that I had/have very little foresight.

 

 For example; I installed the knights with cross-bits at the base of the foremast and main, without thinking ahead. I was happy that I had learned how to use the Proxxon to make slits for the sheaves. And let it go at that – happy to install. Even added nails in the cross pieces to “look” better.

 

So, now, looking ahead at the Corel rigging plans I realize that the cross-bits also needed pin holes (a lot of them) It took the THIRD, and last Corel rigging page to point this out to me (a learner) grrrrr. There was no way that I could drill these fourteen holes at this point.

 

Thought that I could wiggle the knights free and pull them up through the weather deck. The first set install they were just glued into place on the weather deck. When I built new ones with the sheaves I also cut holes through the deck and ran the new knights to the deck below.

They were not “going anywhere” curses. Then thought that I would just tear out the two cross pieces and make new ones, but was nervous about those cross bit nails.

 

Turns out the nails were only decorative and the cross bits just snapped off using small pliers.

 

=====================

 

Sharing because I’m super relieved, and in case another builder misses this foresight as I did as a newbie.

 

Cheers Mates sorry for the long prose. Ok time for a single malt – I think ha ha

1.thumb.jpg.8a22d07552dae40fb741cd3a0f314465.jpg2.thumb.jpg.d2aa904249698dfe166147f67bba83e5.jpg3.thumb.jpg.587df78b09c4209d23c658930829e871.jpg4.thumb.jpg.be2e6c7df1fbd62c7b4720717c0219a6.jpg5.thumb.jpg.196d76d7d27663af2ad2e445f1bb4ab2.jpg6.thumb.jpg.d6c1b3396d4d36e61f836f6d0c1b3756.jpg

 

 

Tigersteve and marktiedens like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.