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Everything posted by thibaultron
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Thanks for the pencil recommendation. I have a 12 pack on my Amazon Wishlist, for next week.
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Chappell's fishing schooners book?
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Macro photography on the cheap.
thibaultron replied to ausf's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
One thing I do with my P&S is that I have one of those round lamps with the magnifier lens in the center. I will sometimes shoot a small part through the lens. ie. camera - lamp lens - part. It takes a bit to get everything focused, but it's free! I do most of my modeling of small stuff looking through the lamp lens anyway. -
Doesn't the Gorilla glue take 24hrs?
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Trumpeter Scharnhorst Battlecruiser 1/200 is coming soon.
thibaultron replied to yvesvidal's topic in Plastic model kits
The Yamato was done in 1/200 years ago by someone. -
On another aspect of using Vallejo, and other flat paint, and something I've been wondering about myself. Decaling. Specifically, how to apply the decals to a flat paint surface. It has been a few decades since I did any decalling, and then it was on gloss finishes. I was watching a Model Railroad seminar last weekend, and one of the presenters described his method. He shoots the entire finish painted model (painted with Vallejo) with Future Floor polish (I assume any good gloss clear would work). I had thought of spot glossing the decal area, this is much better. He then applies the decals with the appropriate solutions to get them settled. He then shoots the entire model again with clear, step I had not considered. He says that this blends in the clear part of the decal film. A good idea. Then he finishes with a final flat coat. In his case Dullcoat. As model rail cars get handled a lot, I this must give a good durable finish. When I get to the decalling stage on my models, I'll try it this way.
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Hitting a really poor kit, with a hammer, into splinters to remove it from the world?😄
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As a side note. During the firing they discovered that the 24 pound shot would go through both sides of the ship, even if it hit one of the frames dead on. It was actually (realitively) better for the crew if it missed the frames, as there were fewer splinters created. This info was from a lecture I found on several ship wrecks, given at the Texas A&M university, I think.
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Here is his test of some of the Badger Stynylrez primers. Badger also has several other color primers, the Black, White, Gray, and Red Brown (and maybe the Flesh) are probably more along our lines (for ships at least). The Synylrez has a better durability, and sandability reputation than the Vallejo ones. Vallejo has, in my experience, terrible sanding properties, and requires 48 hours or so of setting before overcoating for decent durability. Styntlrez is rated for a 0.5mm needle, and I believe 30PSI for application.
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I forgot to mention. The ps-290 (the trigger one) uses a fair amount of air 35 liters/minute, or (thanks to the internet) ~1.25 gallons/minute. The small airbrush compressors are rated at ~20 l/m, so one with a tank is pretty much required, and then with breaks to refill. My Harbor Freight 3 gallon compressor is rated 0.9 g/m at 40PSI, so it might be able to keep up at 30 or so PSI. A corrding to the one video, the IWATA Pistol grip fits the 290.
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