thibaultron
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Everything posted by thibaultron
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Its sad to see the state of such a fine model! -
When I was doing my smooth bore I did find one ship with ports on the weather deck guns. The plans were from a well known author, but I have since lost the info. So I built mine with the port lid, but with line rather than chain rigging.
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I'll be watching your tutorial! Always want to learn new things! Wonderful work, and in just a week!
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Converting a Backyard Shed into a Model Workshop
thibaultron replied to Hank's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Before you continue with the bottom, you need to finish the roof over the loft. Trying to get insulation and some type of panneling, or drywall up will be much more difficult if there is "stuff" in danger below you. It would have been better overall to have done it before the loft floor was installed. In my shop I added an additional row of studs on the inside walls and put in a double layer of insulation. This has greatly reduced the heating and cooling costs. Mine is 16X30 shed. My rafters were 2X6s and I double insulated the roof by screwing 2X2s to the bottom of them. so two layers of R-13 batts give me R-26, top and sides. I also made provisions for a half bath, as I've gotten older I find I need more frequent use of such, and having to go back in the house disrupts the work. It will also be easier to wash my hands if they get paint or something on them, rather than again going to the house, with the added risk of transferring said stuff to the house doorknobs or interior. -
Well, you can "fire" it up, but just once!
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When I made my smooth bore model, I condidered the deck/bulkhead as a setting for the model, rather than a model in itself, so just made it look good, not highly detailed.
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You might concider silkspan sails rather than using the material supplied, which is both to thick and too course a weave. Search the forum for info on making them.
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Waterway! Wish I had thought about that when I built mine. It never occurred to me. I built the deck pretty much from the instructions. I did add hooks to the gun control lines and used the stropping line instead of the chain for the gun lid rigging. Could not imagine them having a chain constantly rubbing on a closed lid.
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The general rule of painting multiple colors is that the lightest color goes down first, progressing toward the darker colors.
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- crabbing skiff
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I might suggest repainting the inner bulwarks red. On my Smoothbore Cannon, the fittings and accessories sort of disappeared in the black back ground of the inner bulwarks.
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When sailing the sails need to be pulled tighter to the center as you turn closer into the wind. If you do not have RC equipment in the boat you would have to adjust the sails per the direction you want the boat to sail. You could perhaps use a cleat in place of the drum.
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Nice build, I like the "lightening holes" in the bow block. A long string of initials after your name, does not mean you can not learn new things! I try to always learn something new every day.
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Don't stop your build because of this, a little sanding, and try again. What paint were you using for the red?
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Check Amazon for Landstrom;s book. I recently bought a used copy for $16 US plus shipping. Good read.
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Part 006 I’m sorry that I haven’t posted in a while. I’ve not had much spare time. Between work, some side jobs and my wife’s doctor appointments, I’ve had little spare time, and when I do, I’m too tired to get out to the shop. I found two saw blades on Ebay, for a reasonable price, so I bought them. I don’t know if I’ll use the 30 tooth blade, but I really wanted another 8004 – 100 tooth blade. I used the jig I bought to align the blade mechanism. I decided that using the jig to align the verticality of the blade was not going to work. I felt that there was too much blade flex to trust the jig, and with the shims I added to the tilt mechanism, it is now too stiff for the jig. Instead I tightened the mounting bolts and used a machinist square to get the blade vertical. Then I loosened the bolts again, mounted the jig, and clamped the blade. Then I tightened the mounting bolts, aligning the blade assembly parallel with the miter groves. I checked the tilt gauge and found that it needed adjustment. This involved simply loosening the gauge mounting screws and sliding the gauge to match the pointer. In the previous picture of the jig on the saw, you see that I also used the jig to square the fence. No saw test yet, that will come soon.
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Homemade Spray Booth
thibaultron replied to BETAQDAVE's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Sharpen a wide chisel, buy a couple of lengths of square metal keystock. Then clamp or screw then to the top, and run the chisel along them to flatten the top edge. Before I catch heat about running a chisel edge across metal, use a cheap chisel. -
The B-17 gunship was the YB-40. Basically added another dorsal turret, and made all the single mounts dual mounts. The bombay was used for ammo storage.
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In the Italian bombing front, an Italain Ace was flying a captured P-38, and shooting down Allied bombers who were mistaking it for one of their fighters. There was a version of the B-17 that was fitted out with extra guns, and no bomb load. Its fault was that the other bombers got faster after they lightened their load, after dropping their bombs, but this variant did not, thus slowing down the retreating formations. A pilot got the bright idea to have US intellegence investigate this ace. They found that was an insanely jealous man, who had been away from his wife for a long time. They then painted nose art on this B-17 with some saying and a likeness of his wife. Sure enough on a run shortly there after, he spotted the plane and attacked it, and they managed to shoot him down. They did not get away without damage and injuries, but they got him.
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Look on their web site, last time I looked they sold the plans for all their kits.
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Guys, I'm about your age. I just want to say, that I was never one of the ones that disrespected the Nam Vets and that you for your service!
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So, what was the quick way you used?
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