lamarvalley

Robbyn, your shrouds are looking great... thanks for the update... getting closer and closer every day. Feeding the monster eh?? Sjors is gonna be soooo happy.... shrouds and the syren in one post... big day even without popcorn

Hey Brian... I'm not sure if this is helpful or not, not even the same ship but what the heck... Mine is the San Fran II and I terminated with the hull planks out...I thought it looked better from the side to have the hull run the length rather than have a border aft. It's hard to see in the pic but above the board that holds the chain I put a thin veneer on the border that ran upwards to the transom... that seemed like a good place to stop it rather than all the way to the keel. Looking at my answer I'm not even sure I answered your question at this point...

And then there was light! Awesome Adrieke!

Wow! You amazed me with your chairs... fantastic work Toly... and then came the chessboard... outstanding attention to detail. Very impressive work. I can't wait to see what you make next... chess pieces?... Beautiful!

I knew it was small, I mean, you said so yourself, it was small, at a 1:500 scale, a size at which i can't really wrap my mind around ..... until.... until the picture with the pencil. Ummm... wow! Just plain wow... I think I'd be working on the bottle too at this stage Very, very incredibly amazingly good! Hats off!

Stunning, amazing work Karl. Such precision... spectacular. I just found your build and will enjoy watching from now onward. Fabulous!

I'm just joining your build Piet and it is impressive. Your story is a wonderful tribute to that era and to your father. It was very moving. I'm glad I stumbled upon your build, it's going to be a fun one to watch.

I'd agree that routers aren't a go-to tool but I did use one just recently to create the risers...? I'm making that word up ... for the spanner or riser between the upper and lower part of a crows nest... It's not done yet so perhaps I'm being premature but it did give me a profile that I needed for 18 spanners/rises/vanes... And Danny... don't worry... I have been forewarned and I tend to approach all equipment with respect.... and attaching with the knob... would be interesting... for a second or two

Oh Danny... you are a creative guy... sitting here smiling and shaking my head at the sheer logic of it... thank you

My drill press is a floor model Jet. It's big and has always been more than ready to handle whatever I need it to do... 3" dia. holes saw, big bore... metal wood whatever. Having said that tho... if I craft a tiny little brass hinge, 1mm wide and 3 mm long and I need to drill .25 mm holes... there is no way the Jet could do it as it is toooo big... even the chuck is big... so a little jewelers press would be ideal. For me, both would serve different purposes. I looked at both on micromark, the smallest they could do is 1/64 which is .39mm... that's pretty small...but still not as small as I wanted for the hinge Rather than say one is better than the other... because i don't know how smooth or fluid they are etc and hate giving advise on where someone should put their money... what plans do you have for a drill press? Some big stuff... all little... in-between? Maybe a split... a bench top that isn't a jewelers or a floor model.... would that serve all your needs?

Good day Captain... I too am a San Fran AL'er and i feel your pain.... I single planked and I think it worked out. To bend the mahogany planks I did several things: First, I didn't really like the single plank from stern to stem so I cut and lap jointed throughout to give a staggered appearance. I soaked the planks for anywhere from 15 minutes to not over an hour and used a heat iron to bend to the shape of the hull. It worked great... slow but great. As to bowling pins... I had some that were huge and others that were skinny and anemic... I just spaced them as I thought they looked good and called it a day. Still have some left over but they are the oddballs... and thereby useless. She's a nice ship and it's been a good first build... and from what I see you're off to a good start... I look forward to seeing how you approach her as another single planker...

Nicely done Ferit! The before and after pictures more than tell the tale Looks properly fitted now.

I'm dead eye destined in the next week or so... and so it'll be interesting to hear from the more experienced riggers about why the twist. Probably something like a left hand twist simultaneously occurred when an alignment not found in nature of the first meta-carpal came into direct opposition to the bulwark while brushing against the posterior position of the shroud. That probably produces the typical one-eye elevation... Sages... what say you???

A drill press adds precision, accurate repetition and power to a cut that a drill and stand can't quite do. I have a full size floor model and it is one of the few tools that I have on my list of desirable tools that doesn't benefit by being smaller for this hobby.

Once upon a time I made furniture and cabinetry. 75 to 80 hours a week... for years.... and I had just about every piece of equipment available. Most went with the sale of the company and i was so tired of woodworking I was happy to see it go... until now... and my recent fascination with little boats - What tools would I want back to do this work?? My list.... although it could be lots smaller than the stuff we used then... -a small table saw would be nice -a band saw or scroll saw would be helpful -have a router and a bunch of bits -a thickness sander was essential then... would be nice now but a bench belt and disc sander would do... -drill press is always useful and that is the one thing I do still have... -a lathe.. had a 600 pound beast... bit too big for now... one a lot smaller would be handy but not essential, -planer and jointers... only if I'm milling my own wood (maybe someday )... -got a drill, a dremel, chisels and clamps... and finally -a tiny electric chop saw... then I could retire the aluminum mitre box I think that would do... BUT... Really...who do I think I'm kidding... I collected tools like it was my purpose back then and I'd do it again... nothing is better than having just what you need at the ready.... thing is, until you know what you need you gotta know what you need to do and how to do it before the investment... With sandpaper, a razor knife, a few drill bits, a few clamps and a hand saw almost any kit can be built... the rest just makes it easier

Geoffrey, Thanks for the history lesson, I knew none of it before but found it interesting. This looks like an intriguing build... looking forward to seeing your progress.

I just happened upon your build Ferit and it is beautiful. I'm glad I found your build log.... I'll be pleasantly watching from here on.

That little detail does make a big impression. Looks great Adrieke!

As you know Aaron I'm doing the same kit as you, the San Fran II from AL but I'm not as disatisfied. The wood was beautiful, from the mahogany hull to the walnut... I did not get applewood although they keep telling me I did and if it is then I am a fan... but I think it's walnut and pretty nice walnut at that. As for the metal parts... that's why I bashed the heck out of it. The directions tho... you got me there... they give a vague direction and numerous pictures that are all different or at the wrong stage. Not the best for sure but in all honesty eons better than the first kit I bought and returned within hours, the Amati Adventure. What I've just written was almost as long as ALL the english in the whole thing so,,,, The reason I bought it was price but also I liked the ship. The next one will be bigger and more expensive but that won't be the goal, it'll be because I like that new ship. I still like this SF... and it could be better but I give a huge thumbs up for a first build... Will I buy again from AL? I think I would if the ship I really really want looks good and is only offered by them. Plus, from all I've read on all these threads... there are trade-offs on almost all kits and companies.

I'm with David on this one... get your health back on track and the King will be there waiting when you're ready...

When I attached my channels I drilled a few tiny holes in the back (the side that gets glued to the hull) and inserted tiny nails without their heads. When i placed them where they should go the nails left an impression where I needed to drill. This and the glue gives stability for the tension that the dead eye shrouds will exert and its hidden

The beauty of oil is that it is not so much a surface coat as it soaks into the wood fibers. Having said that tho it still hurts adhesion. Never heard of the talcum powder/corn starch trick--- I like it and it makes sense... another trick in my bag o' tricks ... but whatever you do you need to create an area of as close to raw uncoated wood as you can. Clamping helps too but on a hull I had difficulty in getting any real clamping power so if you do your test tomorrow keep that in mind...

Hey Philo, I'm a newbie too but what the heck, I'll add my 2 cents worth too... -Get a boat that excites you every time you look at it... can't wait to have her kind of thing... and two... get one that seems a touch beyond what you think your ability level is... it's been my experience that I grow the most and rise to the occasion when challenged... IMO of course

There is a world of difference between the two and their uses vary too, at least to me. For the most part, I use CA glue only when I cannot clamp an object. CA glue is relatively fast setting and that can be good and bad. Good when clamping is impossible and who can sit and hold a piece for minutes at a time waiting for adhesion and bad when the pieces are misaligned and become instantaneously stuck. There are different thicknesses and I find the thinner the faster setting. I use CA glue maybe 2% of the time and I never have clamped and glued a seam... maybe I'll give it a shot sometime with CA. I'm with Russ, that technique won't work with wood glue... Wood glue, like the titebond is a wonderful product. With a good joint or union between two pieces of wood and appropriate clamping pressure the seam can become stronger than the wood to either side of the seam. The glue should be applied lightly but throughly on both pieces and then clamped. Too much pressure and the glue with be squeezed out and the joint will become 'glue starved' - it will not hold so don't go crazy with the clamping. How can you tell...?? practice.

Fair enough I'll see it when it happens