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lamarvalley

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Everything posted by lamarvalley

  1. lamarvalley
    Looks real nice and crisp. Good work!
  2. lamarvalley
    Circles, heck, everyone needs circles! She's looking crisp and clean… can't wait to see the paint. More importantly, your avatar is back… I mean, I love John too but this is more you.
  3. lamarvalley
    Congratulations Sjors, that is quite an accomplishment and you should be very proud. Beautiful details. Love that last picture for perspective… gee whiz, the Albatross is tiny by comparison.
  4. lamarvalley
    One more opinion… like you need it eh?… I like the bamboo the best as it has a unique character in it's end grain…
  5. lamarvalley
    Amazing detail once again!
  6. lamarvalley
    I have never seen that arrangement before, not the one side clear coated with one painted nor the patch of clear in a otherwise painted hull. From a personal standpoint; I like neither choice as I would choose one or the other and certainly not the patch style. I'm not sure of the benefit to mask an area… That's my two cents... I certainly don't have a problem with painting, in fact the ship I am currently building will be a painted POB hull and I look forward to the challenge. I hope the planking goes great, without one speck of filler (one can hope) but I will still paint her as that is what this style of ship calls for. With a better wood, say walnut, cherry, mahogany, a nice boxwood maybe, then I would hope to highlight gorgeous woods with clear coat but like you stated in your opening sentence, builders ship, builders choice. Bottom line; if you think it looks good with any version then that is what you should do. Doug will learn to understand
  7. lamarvalley
    Good evening Adriaan, it's nice to see the GF get moving along again. I always liked this ship so it's good to see you back at it. From here, in the US, the hull looks pretty good.
  8. lamarvalley
    Very nice job Sjors. That sure does look like lots of rope… confusing to a lesser rigger as myself but you make it look easy.
  9. lamarvalley
    That's a fine looking ship Brian. Congrats!
  10. lamarvalley
    Welp.. Sorry but it made me laugh because it conveyed your emotions so accurately. She's looking good Brian and the next spirketing plank (I didn't even know the term until this build) will be an even better improved version. Sanded to 320 of course.
  11. lamarvalley
    Well done Alex, well done! You and Antony have a right to be proud of her. Rigging is hard and I think everyone struggles with it from time to time. The more you do it tho the better and easier it becomes so keep at it. What is the next build?
  12. lamarvalley
    I assume only the keel and walnut are glued together yes? If so, then Brian's approach makes sense to me and would work if thick enough and sounds easiest… or … you could add to the walnut with additional walnut (veneer) to increase thickness to each side to a desired/orginal thickness which might be a bit trickier… or … you could contact the maker for replacement parts. Any of them sound like a plan but above all else… it's not really 'fine' but life will go on as this is model building and stutter starts, repairs, redo's and oh-no's are part of the 'fun'. If I had a nickel for each time I …
  13. lamarvalley
    Looks good Sjors
  14. lamarvalley
    Morning John. I have not read the book but a quick search yielded a good description of the book on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Before-Mast-Death-Aboard-Archaeology/dp/1842175041 From the description it doesn't sound at all technical about construction but about how the sailors lived… their tools, food, life in general. It may not give you details about how planks fit or the precise spacing on ratlines but it sounds fascinating to read about what their life was like.. and from that, who knows what knowledge you could take away from all that. I'm not building the ship but I am buying the book… sounds too interesting to pass up.
  15. lamarvalley
    You mentioned this being a 'practice' run it was a bit of a failure,… hmmm, I guess we have different meanings in mind. Personally, I think it looks pretty darn good Brian. Besides, dropped planks and stealers were 'invented' for a reason… as a fix!
  16. lamarvalley
    What kind of 'glowing' product do you want to use? Is there a brand name like titebond or testers or enamel? That would be helpful to know.
  17. lamarvalley
    Welcome back Adriaan! Looking forward to progress on any vessel. You have been missed.
  18. lamarvalley
    I would never add up all the loot that I used, spent, wasted, expended or otherwise watched slip through my fingers in worthy ventures. I see it all as the cost of living. Love the windows Brian; they give a nice thick appearance kind of similar to old float glass.
  19. lamarvalley
    Thank you for the wonderful morning entertainment. A good cup of coffee, a soft seat and a bevy of Jeronimos' close up photos. Priceless!
  20. lamarvalley
    Good day Stu, I have only planked once but I tried a few variations and came up with my go-to method. I found soaking in room temp water for as little as 20 minutes but never longer than an hour worked for me. I then used an electric heat bender to slowly form whatever curve I needed. The heater was actually sold at HobbyTown USA under the usage of smoothing wing fabric? on model airplanes. It was heat/power adjustable and was shaped like a little iron and the thing worked great. Once the piece was formed I clamped it in place, let it dry and then tweaked angles/bevels and such if needed before glueing. This isn't to say that all the boards/planks bent like I wanted. Some snapped due to my impatience or too severe a bend as well as the wrong grain orientation for the angle. Different woods bend better than others too… walnut was a dream, cherry was passible most of the time although it needed more finesse and mahogany was difficult as it was more brittle. I think any wood can bend but some need a longer slower period with the final bend being a series of slow partial bends toward the finished end. Above all, there is more than one way to do just about everything in this hobby and sometimes the choice is more a matter of what works for you. FYI- I never tried ammonia so I can't speak to that. Have fun.
  21. lamarvalley
    Beautiful detailing. I often wondered if I should buy this kit and give it a try and after seeing your build I think I will. Yours is an excellent example of how to do it. Well done sir!
  22. lamarvalley
    Beautiful detailing. Always a pleasure to see what you produce next.
  23. lamarvalley
    I think your sloop is coming along nicely and I couldn't agree with Alistar more... ...More annoying things are coming…. more IS certainly coming but that is kind of the fun of it… challenges and pitfalls and eventual (hopefully) learnings eh?. If every piece was perfect and it went together like a kit from NASA what fun would that be? That would be as much a challenge as putting gas in a lawn mower… boring! Keep moving forward, I at least am having fun from this seat.
  24. lamarvalley
    I concur with Rich, sapele is a unforgiving bender although a good soak and heat will do it as long as the curve is not too extreme. Sapele is a form of mahogany and the grain is somewhat coarse and prone to snap suddenly. It's always a downer to be at the last tiny bit and about to breathe a sigh of relief for a great bend when a unsatisfying snap occurs. The walnuts from the kit looks darker and more evenly grained than the black walnut and that stuff should smoothly bend if needed… again with moisture and heat. Walnut also finishes so nice. Cherry is a fun wood too and the more the heartwood is exposed to light the darker it gets until it has a nice rich natural brown. Natural cherry is gorgeous when aged and clear coated. But at this point it doesn't matter what you do with it cause it's always a necessity and a pleasure to have excess wood… always.
  25. lamarvalley
    While I'm far from an expert in blackening, I used Birchwood Casey Brass Black. I bought it locally in a gun shop for about $8. I got mixed results but that was due mostly to how well I cleaned the pieces to be blackened and the metal being blackened. My cannons got a nice dark black while some solder lines needed two applications to get where I wanted them. I've never used Blacken-it so I don't know how the two compare.

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