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usedtosail

NRG Member
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Everything posted by usedtosail

  1. I have started the copper plating. I probably won't be adding too many updates as it is pretty repetitive. I will show how I am making the gore lines, however, when I get to that point, and once I figure out where they are and how to do it. I stared at the plans for about half an hour last night and I think I understand it now, but we will see. I started on the keel and I can add about six rows before I have to deal with the curve of the hull: I am liking how the simulated nail heads are coming out. I think if I tried to use the full nail pattern it would be too much. I was going to use my Keel Klamper to hold the ship after the hull is coppered, but the more I thought about it the less I liked the idea of holding it at only two points so low. and also that the clamps might damage the copper plates. So, I added some supports to a lazy susan I made so that I can hold the model and rotate it as I need to. I will also use some closed cell foam to cushion the hull in the supports. Only a few more thousand or so plates to go.
  2. Wow, Jay, you are a brave man! The sails do look really good after the procedure, though.
  3. Rich, I thought you were asking how to tie a line directly to a rail, without a belaying pin. I have had to do that a few times and I don't know if there is a right way to do it. Maybe someone else knows?
  4. Thanks guys. I agree Captain Steve, she is starting to look like a ship. Patrick - the Bengals are a really good team and did well this year. I think they'll do well next year too.
  5. This looks like a great tool. I'll have to make one when i get to that point.
  6. Thanks again Patrick. Are you a Browns fan? That is a tough division for them. Well, I ended up giving the hull one more coat of black paint: I decided to stop here, so off came the masking tape. Here is how it looked right after I removed the tape: There were just a few small bleeds of the black into the white stripe, which I was able to touch up with some white paint. The areas around the tops and bottoms of the gun ports needed some touch up with black paint. Here is how it looks now after that: Maybe a little more touch ups inside the gun ports yet, but it is getting close. I also still need to touch up the black inside the stern.
  7. That is a great case. The Half Moon looks wonderful inside it, too.
  8. Here is the process I used to build the stanchions for the gun deck. I calculated the size of the center section and made the end sections a bit long, so I can trim them down at each beam as I install them. I am using a small Proxxon lathe for shaping these, with a couple of small turning chisels and sand paper. Getting them consistent took a few tries but after the first two it went easier. This one looks a little lop sided but I made a bunch and will choose the best ones, or hide some of the worst ones in the back. I was going to stain these with oak stain, but the trial didn't look very good (right). I then tried some burnt sienna paint with an overcoat of yellow and it is getting closer (left). I will most likely end up with a mixture of burnt sienna and yellow for the final color.
  9. Painting the outer hull continues. I masked off the area for the white stripe between the gun deck gun ports: I burnished the edges of the masking tape to hopefully avoid any running of the black paint, but we won't know how successful I was for a while. I then have been painting many coats of thin black paint. I decided to take pictures between each coat so you can see how the painting progresses. First coat: Second: Third: Fourth: It is getting close but not there yet. Probably one or two more. I have also been painting the transom. In order to be able to use clear acetate for the windows, I painted inside the hull framing at the stern black, so this wood would not show through the windows: The view from the stern: Still needs some touch up inside the window frames. In between coats of paint, I have been building the stanchions for the gun deck. I show this in the next post. Oh, and by the way - GO PATRIOTS!
  10. A pin helps hold the yard in place while you are threading the harness and other lines. I found it to be a big help.
  11. Yep, Bill, now I remember it came from the NRG Shop Notes. I have not yet compared it to the AOS or MS plans, but I am sure my rigging will be some combination of all three. On previous models I have made up my own belaying plans based off the supplied plans and what made sense to me, and I will be doing the same with this one. It also will depend on how many belaying pins can be fit on the pin rails and still are functional and look good - ie not too crowded.
  12. Thanks Tim. Jay - Thanks for the advice. I have had pin rails come up on previous models while rigging, so I always pin them to the deck now. As for the gun deck, this is the same Model Shipways kit that you built. I just chopped up the tops of the bulkheads and added the gun deck planking, so I am kit bashing the MS kit. The hatch on the spar deck will be open, not closed with grates, and the boat will sit on deck beams across that opening. This is more like the ship's configuration in the early 1800's. The process I used to add the portion of the gun deck is documented earlier in this build log. I bought the cannons separately for the gun deck, as they will have carriages and not just dummy barrels.
  13. I have this one but not sure where it came from: Does it help?
  14. Snow day today so got to work at home. A quick update... I finished priming the top sides of the hull. and gave the stripe areas three coats of white paint. In between coats of primer, I have been making the two chain pump housings for the gun deck. Tim I, I found your build log from the cross section and you had a nice sequence for making the chain pumps, so I used it along with the plans in the AOS book. I will paint these brown and make up the wire handles, then put them aside until I can install them. Tonight I will mask off the white stripe and start painting the topsides black. I have already marked off the top of the copper plate line, which I will overlap some with the black, to get a good line at the top of the copper plates.
  15. Captain Al, The way I have made square holes in a model is to drill a round hole, then use the tip of a large nail, which is cut in four faces, to press into the round holes, forming a square hole of sorts.
  16. Captain, I have tried leaving them on as a strip, but had trouble keeping the offsets looking right from one row to the next. With the individual plates, I can compensate a little with each plate. Bill, yes this is the same copper tape as the stain glass folks use. It is what Model Expo supplies with the kit. I have used this in the past and as long as the hull is well prepared and the strips are burnished as they are placed, they hold extremely well with just the adhesive on the back. I prime the hull under the plates to get a nice smooth surface for the plates, and use a popcycle stick that I filed to an angle to burnish the plates down with. This will be a little more challenging on this one because I don't want to burnish the nail heads away, so I have to be a bit more careful during that process. I have used this method on almost all my models and the tape is still stuck after 8 years. How archival this is I don't know, but I am not too worried about that. It would be interesting to hear if anyone has had problems over the long run with the tape as is.
  17. Thanks Captain. Yes, I take a strip of tape and score the individual plates but don't cut through the backing. Then I peel them off the backing as I apply them to the hull. This makes it much easier to get the backing off then if you cut them into individual plates first.
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