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fnkershner

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Everything posted by fnkershner

  1. 1:35, now you have done it. You have set a bar for me. Looks like I will be busy trying to achieve that level of beauty.
  2. Nice job. I looks like I am finishing my repairs just about the same time as you are. The Club meeting is this Saturday and we hope to start planking then.
  3. It is so nice of you to think of me. Up here in the northern hemisphere Summer solstice is just around the corner.
  4. Dave - I like it! very nice job. also wonderful pictures. are these pictures of your kit?
  5. Dave - I know this is Augie's log but that is great looking bricks. please tell us more details?
  6. I agree, I would assemble the mast last. The reason I ask about the boom is that the real one was aluminum. and it was triangular. As well as tapered at both ends. For mine the supplied wood was triangular but not tapered and unfortunately it was warped. So I have to replace it and figure out how to taper it. And then there is that mast.
  7. Dave - Sounds like a good plan. I had a devil of a time on that stern. I just could not get the planks to lay correctly. I ended up using a combination of putty and planks and shaping it. I know it is jumping way ahead but what shape is your boom? Have you thought about how you will taper that?
  8. Does your model have 2 sizes of hull planking like mine does? I have 2 mm X 2mm for the keel and 1 mm X 3mm for the rest of the hull. I suppose this is because of the sharp curves. you end up sanding about 1/2 of the wood off from the 2 X 2. What size are your planks? What is your plan? to double plank or paint?
  9. Joe - it looks like you did the treenailing of your deck. What did you decide to use?
  10. Well unfortunately the answer is "it depends". If the kit is designed by Chuck Passaro, it is designed into the kit and you do not need to cut it. Each kit manufacturer does it differently and some don't even bother to mention it. I don't know your specific kit so I don't know the answer with this model.
  11. Dave - Thanks for the tip. I thought I would post some pictures of my variation of your solution. Besides what else can I do while waiting. As you can see I put some Alcohol is a squirt bottle and then I kept the Q tips wet for about 90 min.
  12. Another solution to remember for the future. Is that some models have a rabbit carved into the stem and keel. At the bow this allows you to recess the ends of the planks so that the rough end does not show. I learned this one late when I was double planking one of my kits.
  13. Hey we all have brain farts once in a while. That's why we have this forum. I recently asked how someone shaped the rabbit on their long boat and they said they used a Dremel. I have been staring at my Dremel all week.
  14. This is going to be lots of fun I get to watch you build the same model I am building from the same company but in a smaller scale. My false deck was 2 pieces but essentially this model has the same design. I even have the same stand. I discarded the stand because it was to obviously made of Ply. Also Dave as to how to get the deck to flex. I just used loads of Rubber bands and the bulkheads. Also I don't like CA. I don't think I am that good a modeler. Slow and steady with lots of steps in reverse. Thanks me.
  15. I have a very similar pair of these pliers. Micro Mark sells them. I find I use many of the different sizes to get a constant curve as well as making eyes.
  16. Dave I may wish I had built this one. If I had I would not be bribing the admiral. And by the way how do you taper a 5 ft mast?
  17. Per - Oh my! I am sorry to see this. I guess you are going back to working on the Harvey for about a week.
  18. Pete do I see some dust on your pure white table in the pictures above?!! Wonderful work my friend. Are you still in Vancouver BC?
  19. Pops you are fast! It has taken me a full week just to get the bulkheads in. I expect I will spend most of tomorrow fairing the bulkheads and shaping the bow blocks. Sheer planks will have to wait until some time next week.
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