fnkershner
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Everything posted by fnkershner
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What a surprise! I would not have thought the bleached walnut to come out so good. Nice job. Something to remember.
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Mike - The grain on the Stem does not run up & down as it should. So there is a very real chance that the top (or head) of the stem will break off. this is mentioned in several other logs. I took my que from Chuck S. in San Diego. Also the WOP does strength the wood. this is the reason I painted a couple of coats on both the stem and bulkheads.
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I am so glad to find this thread. Sam I look forward to seeing your workmanship unfold. And yes I owe you another PM on the sail cloth. I just wish it would rain for a weekend or too so I could get back to modeling.
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Grant you beat me! You must have some serious power under the hood. As soon as I heard of the opening of this log I headed straight for here! So Mike you decided to use the keel & stem from the kit. One suggestion - As noted in some of the other logs the Stem is very fragile and likely to break at the head. Since the grain runs the wrong way. Also did you paint the Bass parts with WOP as suggested by Chuck? It sure helps with making things stronger. I can only imagine that once we get to the point of removing the bulkheads this will be a benefit.
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Jerry - Now those are very nice hoops!
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LOL Jerry!
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I know it is not historically accurate. But I find that for Sail powered R/C vessels the vang is very important. and if you are racing you want it to be adjustable.
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Thanks Bob, One last question - did you use rubbing alcohol?
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Thomas - This the one piece of this kit that has had me frustrated (at least in my mind). I was very disappointed when I saw the metal figure head provided by ME. You have dome an outstanding job! And it is made out of wood as it should be. Have you considered making any more of them? I would pay you for this!
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Bob how well does it sand after curing? Can you get a nice gelcoat smooth finish?
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Ok I think it will be best to create a test. After all this work I don't want to mess up my hull. I will create a small section of planked hull and add putty, then sand. I will intentionally leave some small gaps and allow the planks to flex. Then it will be time to try the resin/epoxy.
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Bob - Can you tell me where you bought it? My only experience is with West Marine Epoxy that is a 5:1 mixture. Besides hardening the wood does this also fill the gaps and cracks? Will I have a smooth base to paint? When I have used the West Marine stuff I have found it easier to spread with a plastic scraper than a brush. PS after typing the above I clicked on your link. I have a hobby town near me.
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Joe, I just found your log. I think I will pull up a chair and enjoy the show. I have always admired Caldercraft kits. I can't wait to see how this one develops.
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You have me interested. How is the 2 part resin different from Epoxy? I had always assume that the 2 part stuff I bought from West Marine was Epoxy. the only difference was if you used the fiberglass tape or not.
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Bob - Tell me more? I would like to avoid Epoxy completely but I don't think I can unless I do a 2nd layer of planking. Also the epoxy appeals to me since I will get a gel coat look to the hull. I just dread all the sanding it will take to get there.
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Blackie - I agree with you about the Epoxy. I am doing some experimenting. I may have to resort to a thin layer of epoxy all over the outside.
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Ok Guys, I need more help. I have been sanding the putty on this model and have run into a problem. There are a few places where the plank flexes. As a result of the flexing there are cracks in the putty. If I keep sanding it will get pretty thin. How do I get a smooth surface with no cracks so that I can paint? I would really rather not resort to Epoxy. That will require SO Much more sanding.
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Per, I must confess I don't understand this picture. This is not the box wood. It is the basswood with the original parts cut with a Laser. I would take one of the stems out of this stencil and lay in on the boxwood so that the grain goes up and down thru the head of the stem. Trace this out then cut. Is this your Boxwood stem? I can't see the grain.
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How did the oarsmen keep from tangling with each other?
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If you get the grain right on the stem. You may not need to paint the boxwood with WOP. Boxwood is stronger than Basswood and if the grain is going the correct direction you will not break off the head piece.
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Per - what Chuck said. This is one of the reasons I had to cut my stem twice.
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Mike Danny Beat me to it. I use only the vinegar or paint thinner. I don't even use acetone. I also do a 4:1 mixture. Other than that I do exactly what you do. And make sure to rinse and completely dry between steps.
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Per, you know me. When you lack the skill of someone like Chuck all you can do is substitute Power tools. I cut my notch using my Byrnes Sander. yours looks great. I suggest that you cut the stem first. Then if you have any minor flaws in the scarf joint you can match them in the keel.
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Toni - What you are see is a macro picture of my scarf. As mentioned I cut both parts from Bowwood and you are noticing the flaws in my sanding. Both parts fit the false keel properly and I will fill the scarf joint with putty. Once it is painted there will be nothing to show. Thanks everyone for you input. Stay tuned.
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