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Blue Ensign
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Everything posted by Blue Ensign
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Been a couple of weeks since I last looked in on my favourite builds, and you haven't disappointed me with your progress Nils, puts me to shame as I've hardly moved at all on my build. She truly is an eye catcher. B.E. -
Neat work on the Catharpins Ray, is that the approach suggested by the kit instructions? I've always rigged mine insitu and a fiddly job it is getting them seized and taut without distorting the shrouds. B.E.
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Has it really been a month since I last visited your log Mark?..... but one advantage is I get the full impact of your progress and the wonderful full framing shots, a pleasure to view. B.E.
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It is surprising that a kit is produced without hawse holes, very strange. I don't think the hawse holes should be at the level of the wale, rather slightly above the the gun deck level. The cables run into the gun deck, are secured around the riding bitts and are led below to the cable tier thro' the fore hatch. An alternative is not to rig the cables at all, when at sea the cables we're unrove and the hawse holes were stopped up to reduce water ingress. Ps: the rope covering of the anchor ring is called puddening . B.E.
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Brenticus, I think you need to re-visit your anchor cables. They should feed thro' the hawse holes in the bow not over the cathead. It is the Cat tackle with a hook used to connect with the anchor that feeds thro' sheaves in the cathead and is belayed on the Foc'sle. Cheers, B.E.
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Belated Birthday wishes to you Bob, nice job on the head so far. B.E.
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Glad the ciphers fit the bill Martin, looking forward to seeing the finished product. My approach to fitting the ciphers was to clean the brass, glue the ciphers with ca sparingly, and then blacken. Overspill of ca shows up and where it happened I scraped the excess off with a scalpel blade and re-blackened the gun. Had to do this with one or two of the guns, but they all turned out ok in the end. Cheers, B.E.
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If you don't care about period differences and National practices, then it doesn't matter. Only those with a specific interest in the subject are likely to notice - including me B.E.
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Hi Martin, Daniel was kind enough to send me a full scale print of the cyphers so I may check them against the actual guns. I have not trimmed them too close so they show up better on the guns for demo purposes. On the left the RB 32mm gun: in the centre Chuck's Syren 29mm gun: and on the right the 15mm RB gun: (used for swivels) The larger cyphers will fit both RB and Syren guns, not too small and in fact a better fit on the Syren model which is a fraction smaller in diameter. The small cypher looks to just fit the 15mm RB gun, although I understand Chuck's model is slightly larger so the fit will be easier. As Alistair says the Amati etched cyphers are indistinct to the point that I found it difficult to decide which way up they should be, but it's all a bit academic because the very small size precludes clear detail and the main benefit is that 'something' can be seen where the cypher should be. Daniel's versions are much clearer and the detail can be made out so I think they should do the job for anyone wanting to enhance their kit guns. B.E.
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I also run a smear of pva along the line as serving progresses, helps keep things tight. ps: I love that last run of full model shots even more than the ones before. Nice work Ray. B.E.
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Very nice progress Richard, I like the look of her. B.E.
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The GR monogram I used was part of a set provided with the Vanguard kit, a friend let me have a few he had spare. However, since that time Dafi has produced some etched GR monograms to suit the Heller 1:100 scale kit. The thought struck me that those suitable for a 32 pounder at 1:100 scale may be suitable for a six pounder at 1:64 scale. There are two sizes provided, and I understand the large ones are 3mm x 2mm. These are far superior to the ones I used which were unclear in definition. Have a look, here's the link. http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en.html Cheers, B.E.
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Hi Martin, yes I would have ordered some from Chuck had they been available, and I did so later, sometime after I had completed my guns. As it happens, fine as they are I would have come to the conclusion they were not quite right for Pegasus. Here's a comparison photo. Both the Syren guns are excellent but the 29.9mm looked a little under scale to my eye, mostly in terms of its diameter, and the 37mm one obviously too large. I would suggest you make them up and see how they look as a set on the deck of Fly, such perceptions may then disappear. In reality these guns were quite small, it took me ages to get my head around the fact that the carronades on Pickle were only 2' long. Cheers, B.E.
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Hi Martin, I used the 32mm RB Barrels,have I said somewhere that I used the 29mm ones? I also used the 15mm RBs for the Swivels. B.E.
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Great job Grant, excellent stuff, a fine pair of Cutters. You've clearly demonstrated that important ship modelling basic of sticking with it until it comes right. B.E.
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Don't know Alan, but unravelling is a feature of polyester line, needs to be sealed with a spot of ca although I've found that Gutermann 100% polyester sewing thread is a lot better than Morope in retaining its twist when cut. B.E.
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Hi Bob, Here's a pic of the Morope left and right hand lay line Whether it really matters at 1:64 scale or smaller I doubt. Very few people would notice the difference or realise the significance. Of late I've been having second thoughts about using Morope. On the positive side it has great definition, and no fuzz, but I find it more frustrating to work with. It needs to be sealed before every cut to stop it unravelling and certainly at the smaller diameter lines I have used thus far on rigging the Longboat it seems to have a life of it's own. It is certainly more springy than natural fibres which effectively prevents imparting any 'sag' to lines. The other annoyance I find with it is unravelling the coils it is supplied in. I have singularly failed as yet to transfer a coil to a spool without spending a frustrating amount of time trying to untangle the line. So I guess you pays your money and takes your choice, The crunch time hasn't arrived for me as yet, so I've a little time to make a final decision.. Cheers, B.E.
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Very impressive work Pat particularly at 1:60 scale, and to your follow up Gregor. B.E.
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Great work on the masts Ray, love those full shots of Diana, she looks wonderful B.E.
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Love those full shots of your Pegasus Nils, she is an impressive build. Interesting comment of yours re use of polyester thread. I have a full set of Morope lines which have great definition but I find them more elastic than natural fibre lines. Because I like to impart some sag into certain lines, something almost impossible to do with polyester I will probably revert to the natural stuff when I get around the rigging business. I find a well stretched natural line is easier to handle, and will take a natural looking sag, imparting a weightiness to lines such as the Main Stay and braces. Regards, B.E.
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Nice looking Capstan Martin, like your contrasting woods. I did connect the two capstans on my build, it required cutting a half round in the deck beam. It gave me a small pleasure but as Alistair says it makes no difference once the qd is in place. B.E.
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Your build is coming together very nicely Rob, Pickle is such an enjoyable kit even allowing for those tiny carronades. B.E.
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There is no mention of a taper of the Main Wale in The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650 - 1850. In Volume 11 of the ffm it is noted that the top strake of the wale tapers from 41/2" to 3" in thickness to accommodate the fit into the rabbet of the stem. There is no indication of taper in the width of the timbers. Cheers, B.E.
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Copper plated ships in NMM
Blue Ensign replied to Gaetan Bordeleau's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Hi Gaetan, The Bellona model is a contemporary model which I believe was coppered to to demonstrate the procedure to King George111 This is a slightly more detailed shot As the copper is also contemporary, I suppose the answer as to colour is as is. B.E.
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