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Blue Ensign

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. Not so much a question of doability as finished look I think. At smaller scales the line is a maximum of 0.1mm diameter and generally less. Even at 1:64 scale the topmast ratlines on the Amati sloop are only 0.1mm. Get the correct relationship between shroud and ratlines and then do a comparison test with clove hitch and overhand and choose which suits your eye. I went with clove hitch on my 1:64 scale model, but overhand using very fine wire on my 1:150 scale Heller French Seventy-four. Courses for horses. Personally unless a miniature model, I don't favour gluing lines across the shrouds. B.E.
  2. So impressive Nils, she reminds me of those great builders models of Ocean liners you find in our Maritime Museums. A wonderful project. B.E.
  3. Inventive use of 'bling' MIchael to dress up your Wasa, but I too prefer the look of your model to the 'disneyesque' 1/10th version. still go with what suits your eye. B.E.
  4. Great looking model Bug, love the finish you have achieved on her. Well done. B.E.
  5. Hi Mike, I think that both flat and elliptical Quarter badges were a feature on Swans, but looking at the plan I took the view that the ones on Pegasus were of the flat variety. In this case the upper decoration would lie flat against the hull albeit in relief; I think Amati did quite a good job of reproducing the Dolphins. However, modifying the Quarter Badge as in Hahn's Kingfisher and the Atalanta model in the NMM is a nice project and adds both interest and personalises your build. The drawing in the ffm (p296) shows the basic upper stool with bell top as a flat structure with the bell in the centre. and on (p297) the upper finishing decoration is shown as solid but shaped with the inference that it follows the contour of the stool at the front, allowing for a lip/ moulding, but fits flat against the hull on the inner side. I doubt there would be any space between the upper finishing and the hull as this would make it vulnerable. Drawing 'D' on p 297 gives the idea. On this basis you could I suppose use the provided dolphin decoration which would probably bend to follow the line. The 'rounded' roof as used by Alistair is also a feature of the Kingfisher model by Hahn and there is a good photo of this in Vol 111 of the ffm (p204) If you go down the 'modified' route I would suggest you construct the badge as shown in Vol 11, you will then get a better idea of how the upper finishing decoration will fit in. Regards, B.E.
  6. Tricky one that Martin as you've made such a nice job of the scarph and the hooded planks. You have yet to line and cap the Foc'sle bulwarks so there will be less of the waterway (and scarph) showing when finished. I have to admit I would probably leave it, telling myself that it is a small issue in the overall build, but then I'm not a purist. The only question is can you live with it. Cheers, B.E.
  7. Just love it Tony, great 'how to' posts as we've come to expect from you. The display idea is spot on, personally I prefer a waterline view for models with sails, seems to set them off better. Regards, B.E.
  8. I seem to have missed this one Timmo, but glad I've found it! Nice work, and a great looking subject. B.E.
  9. Hi Don, as far as the internal fittings on French ships of the 18th century were concerned you could have any colour you liked as long as it was red ochre, including the gun carriages. B. E.
  10. I seem to have missed this one Bob, but as an admirer of your work I am happy to see your latest project making such good progress. An excellent subject. B.E .
  11. You don't often see tackles attached to the pendants as they were not usually left in place once the purpose had been served. If you did wish to rig a tackle then it would probably be hooked to an eyebolt at the foot of the mast. On my Pickle I fitted thimbles to the pendants rather than a block, but did not attach tackles. B.E.
  12. Great craftsmanship Greg and such a fine subject, I too look forward to the publication of your book. B.E.
  13. I agree with the consensus Don, once the hull is sanded and sealed I don't think you will need a paint pot. B.E.
  14. Nice work on the gallery Mark, and many happy return to you on your birthday B.E.
  15. Very nice work Jason, great finish, the large scale photo's show off perfectly the cleanness of your work. Regarding the copper plating, I agree with the method of fitting as you suggest, at least with the Amati plates no actual overlapping is required as would be the case on the real thing. B.E.
  16. Nice work Martin, and the planking in that last shot looks excellent. B.E.
  17. Great work on the deck planking Mike, that first pic shows it off a treat B.E.
  18. My weapon of choice is a strong elastic band and a ruler. I'm a dead shot, only the target gets hit , although not if it settles on the model B.E.
  19. That is a fine looking model Dan, very nice work indeed, well done. B.E.
  20. Looks good to me Martin, regarding the lights you could always add strips of clear thin acetate behind the windows which would catch the light and give the impression of glazing. B.E.
  21. That's an interesting model subject Don, and nice formation of the hull lines, look forward to seeing more progress. ps: Looks like you have some serious wood turning kit there Cheers, B.E.
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