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Blue Ensign

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Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. That's how I see it Martin, although on my Pegasus the after hatch is battened down and covered by the grating. ps: I have too many senior moments these days not to be patient. Cheers B.E.
  2. I've looked at the plans for Fly Martin, they are essentially the same as Pegasus. As far as I can see the ladder way from the Qd down to the upper deck is forward of the capstan on the QD. The railings just forward of the Capstan can clearly be seen. B.E.
  3. I'm not sure I follow your understanding of the Ladderways Martin. There is a ladderway at the fore end of the Upper deck, and another one behind the Capstan on the Upper deck both leading to the Lower deck. I have fitted the fore hatch ladder, but the aft hatch ladderway is covered by a grating, and I saw little point in fitting a ladder, particularly as the whole set up is covered by the Quarterdeck. The ladderway from the Quarterdeck to the Upper deck is, as on the plans and the kit, forward of the Upper Capstan. Regarding the coamings and head ledges; to finish those off the grating has to be removed, and to get the grating edges flush with the coamings they also have to have careful final shaping out of the framing. When I made up my hatchways I first made the gratings to the closest full segments, and then built the framing around them. This avoids having those niggling little stubs sticking out of the edges. Cheers, B.E.
  4. That's a very fine and appealing model you've produced there Mick, I like it very much. B.E.
  5. Love those overhead shots Nils. To keep the guns steady for rigging, I fixed them with pins thro' the bed of the carriage. I pre-drilled the deck to take the pins and when I was ready to fit the guns they were secured with a spot of ca on the pin end. B.E.
  6. Hi Martin, I used the kit gratings. Once I had got the round in the head ledges I was happy with I inserted the made up grating and and simply sanded it from the centre each side to match. Here's a link to how the finished one for the Fore hatch looked. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/332-hms-pegasus-by-blue-ensign-victory-models-enhancing-the-kit-a-build-log-of-sorts/page-2 It doesn't really matter that it is too thick because once in place it doesn't show. Cheers, B.E.
  7. Nice replacement figure Lukas, that winged shield figure on Superbe is a pretty ugly device. When you come to rig the 'show' guns on the upper decks remember the French rigged their breeching ropes thro' the sides of the carriage, not around the cascobal or thro' a breeching ring as on British ships. B.E.
  8. Hi Martin, I used 5mm starting depth for the head ledges and 3mm for the coamings as I recall; it was a conscious decision as I wanted to achieve a visible curve in the gratings without making them too thin on the outer edges which would create problems with them breaking up. The grating sit on a 1mm square ledge glued around the inside of the ledges/coamings; the head ledges were rounded down to meet the coamings and the gratings now in place were carefully sanded down to meet the round in the ledges. I think the head ledges finished up at around 3.5mm at the central point. If you intend to have open hatches it is worthwhile gluing some square stock beneath the deck openings to represent the hatch framings and give a little depth to the hatches. Cheers, B.E.
  9. Nice job on the spectacle plate Ian, I look forward to seeing the results of your chainmaking. B.E.
  10. Always a pleasure to read your log Kester, and enjoy the photo updates of your fine little Sherbourne. B.E.
  11. A very beautiful build Pete, and how lucky your friends are to have such a fine model to display. B.E.
  12. Hi Martin, re the gunport strip, I found it useful to also make up a gun to check that they sit squarely in the ports, don't want to find after the event that they are too high or low. I'm impressed with your journey into figure carving I think you have an emerging talent there. I like the holly decking, what are you using for caulking? Cheers, B.E.
  13. Many of my golfing mates visit Florida for that purpose, I think I would rather visit Bob to look with amazement on his Essex. B.E.
  14. Love that stern shot Ian, and the headworks look to be coming along just fine. In my opinion these are two of the critical areas that can make or break a model, and your improvements are cetrainly making it. B.E.
  15. Great job on the Pinnace Grant, and those frames for the cutter look as delicate as butterfly wings, make mine look as tho' they've been hewn out of a tree with a chain saw. B.E.
  16. An interesting solution Nils, and one that doesn't look out of place. Those Foc'sle ladders that seem to foul the guns always looked awkward to my eye. B.E.
  17. 10 coats of bulwark red paint Augie, I think I need to revisit my approach to bulwark painting. Looks wonderful. B.E.
  18. Hi Jason, Very nicely made up that sling, but as with almost everything to do with rigging there are variations and differing opinions as to the set up. Longridge certainly shows the Slings on Victory retained by battens forming grooves on top of the mast cap, whereas Lees indicates that the sling was supported by a cleat nailed to the aft side of the Masthead, as does Antscherl in the ffm, who also says that Steel did not specify slings for any rate below 32 guns. He also shows that the slings passed thro’ the foremost aperture in the top. On Victory there is a small square hole on the forward side of the top thro’ which the sling passes, but Lees suggest that this arrangement was perhaps more early nineteenth century rather than late Eighteenth. To my eye your arrangement looks a little awkward with the sling rubbing against the topmast. Can you install a small cleat to hold it back a little? I’d be tempted to have a play with it, and see how it looks passed around the aft side of the masthead, if you have sufficient length, but it’s a small point and I wouldn’t get too concerned about it. Cheers, B.E.
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