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steamschooner

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Everything posted by steamschooner

  1. Nice looking small working craft. Weathering looks good but the white sail looks out of place(should it be weathered also?)
  2. Dan, At the top of the home page there's a tool bar and under MORE there's a community map. It will show you members near you. I am 119 miles north of you in Lebam Wa.
  3. http://www.hawk-graphics.com/pages/decals.html here is one place in Canada
  4. I know I'm a little late with these but maybe they will help.
  5. Terry, Have you tried looking on www.hathitrust.org/ {online books) search international marine engineering for the years you are interested in. I have a set that spans 1896-1906 and have seen many naphtha launches some with drawings.
  6. Eric, I take it that the grasshopper poles are going to be rigged in the ready position? You have some line on the bow pole(term ?) that would make it difficult to stow them (grasshopper poles ) on that cross brace. You would have to poke the end of the grasshopper between the line and the bow pole. Just wondering, your model looks great. Steve
  7. Eric, In Kurt's post 247 shows the Ben Campbell with the grass hoppers in the stowed position. So not all boats left them hanging. I would also think that they would not be derigged when stowed having enough line on the falls to position horizontally as seen on the Ben Campbell. not that I know anything about riverboats Steve
  8. are you sure it's the USS Perry you are building and not the USS Putty?🤪 sorry couldn't help myself. Looks like a good job so far.
  9. Ron, What type of material is the mold made of? rtv, plaster,? Heating it should help and the talcum also. I find that the low temp alloy cools very quickly. you can "cook" the alloy if you try and use to much heat. If you look in scratch build logs pg 11 is my build log of the John Cudahy. On the 7th page of that log you will see my casting efforts for my anchors. post #182 I use Cerro cast a low temp alloy and vulcanizing rubber in a two piece mold. Again depending on the size of the part to be made will be a factor in weather you can just pour the metal in or not. Using high temp metal you still run into the problem of surface tension not allowing the metal to flow in to small areas. Steve
  10. Depending on the size of the anchors the low temp alloy my not flow into the mold. You may have to use some centrifugal force to fill the mold. Has to do with surface tension of the material I believe. Steve
  11. Another great little model, Javier interesting tiller arrangement.
  12. Have you done a search on this site for the Flying Fish ? I did a quick search and there seems to be a few builders logs on this model. Steve
  13. Welcome to MSW from another PNWer. Been through Graham many times
  14. Welcome aboard, could be a porcupine 🙂
  15. Long over due progress report, Dash is made and installed minus instruments, Steering wheel now has throttle lever, exhaust port on transom, Have some cleats cut out but need some fine tuning, Cockpit coaming installed, rear compartment coaming is installed
  16. Welcome to MSW, Also a pacific northwester, Pacific County
  17. Thanks, Bruce lots of nice looking boats in that catalog. Should be able to find some info in there.
  18. I have used" Dill Bit City" for my needs. WWW.store.yahoo.com/drillcity
  19. Well not much to show but I have made/ changed a few parts. Thanks Bruce & John for the links, still looking for a little more info on cockpit layout but since these were owner built or built for owners they must have all been different. So I should be ok however I layout the cockpit, It's my boat right?
  20. Well I decided that I would revisit a model that has been sitting on my shelf for 20 years or more. I got the plans for this boat from Motor Boating Ideal series of books/ plans ca. 1938 It was long before I had a pc and internet. One of the reasons I stopped work on it was because I just did not have enough info on the cockpit area. It was also a lesson in using veneers. So now I can research this class of hydroplane and get something going on finishing it up. If I am remembering correctly this was a Hacker design. Following pictures show what I have left after 20 plus years.
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