Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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No, really, I am using it to make flags for a model. SURE you are. Whatever you say (wink wink) -
Jim, Where did you get the small boats? Korabel directly? I don't see Model Expo carrying the boats.
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- masterkorabel
- ships
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I have tried to use tissue paper in the past and have had issue with it tearing while printing. You have to take care when attaching it to a piece of paper. Subsequently, based on a friend who does miniatures, have gone to cigarette paper. Downside 1: You are limited in size. Downside 2: When you go into the tobacco store to buy the cigarette papers you get the knowing "I know what you are going to use that for" look. ...but, hey, it's legal in California now so.....
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Tools, supplies and workstation......
Chuck Seiler replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Why is there a window in the bow? -
CAPRAILS. Here you see how I clamped down the caprails in the bow area. I would do similarly amidship (amidboats) and aft. Overhead shot of forward caprail in place Below, caprails in place and trimmed down. I need to trim the area next tothe stem. I like the way the flare looks, but it is not supportive of future planking. The "ears" should fix this. I have started the floorboards, although in a back asswards fashion.
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Tools, supplies and workstation......
Chuck Seiler replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Again, ask as the need arises. In my experience, there is no universal "best brand", although there are some brands that cover a wide variety of equipment. If you ask about miniature table saws, you will get 2 or 3 or 4 answers. Ask about thickness sanders you will get alot as well, although not necessarily the same companies. -
Tools, supplies and workstation......
Chuck Seiler replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Says who? Sure, if you are going to scratch build a fully framed ship you will need a lot of room and a lot of specialized equipment. For many years I used a Dremel and Exacto knife...and a lot of clamps....and sandpaper....and glue. Start small and add what you need when you need it. Kitchen table or card table in the living room has been a common building area (subject to the whims of The Admiral). As Pat asked, what style of build do you want to do? -
As an aside, I am liking the colour I am getting from the Wipe On Poly (although the bird ain't real happy ). I may not need to stain.
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Spacer has been removed and the transom cleaned up. Part of the port side caprail installed. The curve below the flying transom still needs to be cleaned up, but it doesn't look right. I don't like the way the plank ends are just flapping around in the breeze. It seems like there should be edging or a fashion piece. I know it will be covered with decorative carving, but.... Plank ends cleaned up but it still doesn't look right. (Wipe on Poly applied. It looks a whole lot shinier with a flash. That shine will eventually go away.)
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I had all sorts of problems trying to get the flying transom seated in the existing planking. I decided to place a spacer aft of the true transom, then glue in the flying transom. So far so good. Avert your eyes from the glue gobs.
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The turtle has turned into a tub. The barge has been removed from the buildboard and bulkheads removed. As part of the process, 2 of the frames broke free from the planking. I guess I didn't glue very well. In the picture below I have reglued and clamped in place All fixed and nestled in its handy dandy cradle. Let the sanding and smoke & mirrors begin.
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Yeah, now that I think about it, that makes sense. Understood. Your second part received in the spirit intended. Fair the hull and bevel the edges exactly as you did? Heck, I can't fair and bevel the port side the same way *I* did it on the starboard side. <doh!>
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So, you are saying that even though the planks are pre-spiled, we still need to line off the hull?
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Progress continues. Planking almost complete. Bow-on shot showing planking completion. Upper three strakes complete as well as the garboard strake on the right side...or what we in the planking business call the starboard garboard. You see larboard garboard in progress. Side view.
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new to me scalpel handle
Chuck Seiler replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have used scalpels vs Exacto for many years. I went to the #7 handle at the recommendation of Toni Levine. Swann-Morton. -
I'll experiment with QAB. My plan is to stain. Should I nail before staining or wait until after to avoid glue gop issues?
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Titebond or Weldbond for the monofiliment? I seldom have success with Titebond on non-wood material.
- 421 replies
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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kit review 1:72 La Real - Dusek Ship Kits
Chuck Seiler replied to James H's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
Your admiral's head on a pike DOES tend to dampen morale. This appears to be somewhat plank on frame. Could you partially plank it, similar to Chuck's Queen Anne Barge, or doesn't it lend itself to that? -
Apparently the hotel has opened up other dates for the NRG rate. I received that from Mary at NRGHQ. Will provide more details when I get home and contact hotel. Who else is going?
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If I had gone the CA glue route I wouldn't have had to clamp.
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For the record, Plan B was leave plank 2 unattached to the transom until plank 2 is complete on both sides. Use the rubberband method to clamp the plank to the curvey transom. The offsetting twists balance out.
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I had more problems with twisting than breaking. No breaks so far, except that previously noted. You see how I have the RBs set up to clamp the plank to the transom. It ended up twisting the transom. I had to unglue the plank and go with plan B.
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Working on second strake using highly sophisticated clamping system.
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Thanks to all for tuning in. Chuck, how was Philly?
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Regular planking begins. I had to slightly sand the frame edges to remove traces of Polywipe. The location of the bottom of the lowest plank was marked per Chuck's instructions. Planks 1 and 2, port and starboard were cleaned up and top edge beveled. This is important to get right since the next plank will lay flush with the bevel. A clean bevel will avoid gaps. Planks 1 port and starboard were soaked, then clamped into place to dry. They are very flexible and handle the twist easily. I will take my time to hopefully avoid errors. First strake is in place. Bow on shot. The lower stake on both sides are in place. In this picture they appear to be uneven, but in real life they line up fine..
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