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Landlubber Mike

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Everything posted by Landlubber Mike

  1. I've been spending most of my time working on my 1/700 destroyer, but have been getting in some progress on the Wildcat. Everything is painted up aside from the life raft, just need to do a few touch ups. I used Tamiya Insignia White for the underside from the rattle can, and Vallejo Dark Gull Gray for the top side. I really like how the two colors are working together. Question for everyone - when I look at pictures of the Wildcat, there usually isn't such a sharp line between the colors, but more of a soft transition as if it was overspray. Any ideas on how to achieve that? I considered taping just outside the line and spaying a very diluted paint mixture. I don't know if I want to re-tape, but was thinking about possibly hand brushing a very thinned gray along the line - sorta just pressing the bristles against the line like I was sponge painting. Any ideas on which would be better? Thanks in advance!
  2. Just about at the finish line. Everything is assembled, just need to add the rigging. I played around with some naval enamels from AK so I'll let those dry over the next few days, and then add a matt clear coat. I'm wondering about adding a clear coat after the rigging. I'm planning to probably use EZ-Line - would it be ok to rig the ship now, and then clear coat at the end? Or should I first clear coat and then rig the ship? I figure the clear coat won't effect the EZ-Line, but just wondering if anyone has any experience on this. Thanks for looking in!
  3. Looks awesome man. That camo scheme is complicated but really stands out, nice job!
  4. I could be. I’ve got three models that are near the finish line. I’m a lot slower than you though so don’t let me hold you up...
  5. Beautiful work Craig! Is there a McLaren in the future? 😉
  6. Whenever I start to think about how many projects I have "in progress" I always feel better when I remember that there's this Popeye guy out there with a lot more
  7. Looking good - I like the lines of the He111.
  8. Made some more progress. Got the final 10 AA guns installed, along with some ammo crates and other assorted items. This one in particular was fun: I ended up spraying a coat of Future so I can start the wash and weathering process. Here are some shots of what it looks like. I always cringe when I post these, and have to remind myself that they are taken at high magnification: On the final stretch. Thanks for looking in!
  9. Beautiful work as always Craig. At the rate you're going, you're going to need a few more display racks
  10. Wow, very nice! Congratulations!! I was getting nervous as I started reading your post, but glad to see it worked out in the end. 😁
  11. Looks great Popeye! Just out of curiosity, for this kits and others where there is a propensity to be a tail dragger, do the instructions advise of that fact? Just wondering how one can tell when that happens. Apparently one of the Zoukei-Mura kits I own can be a tail dragger, and they mention this fact a number of pages into the manual (good idea to skim manuals before starting I'm realizing!). I think a different Z-M kit has a clever way to reallocate weight distribution by using cast metal parts in a particular section of the fuselage or wings to get better weight distribution.
  12. Very nice work! If I had to do it again, I would have done a little more on my stern as you are showing in your Corel Draw pictures. I like the bottom one better, but either would be a nice improvement to the kit. Rigging those cannons brings back nightmares for me when it came to rigging those 2mm blocks 🙀
  13. Some really incredible work there. The camo looks amazing - in that second to last picture, it reminds me of that artwork with the 3D cubes and other shapes. Are those figures from North Star?
  14. Lou and EG, those are some nice looking ships. To be honest, I'm not as familiar on the US side. Wonder if there's just more interest in Japanese ships out there? I like the Pensacola and the St. Louis class looks like a really cool one with the camo, deck details, etc.
  15. It’s funny, I was about to start the Hasegawa Shimakaze destroyer at 1/350, but it’s such a nice kit I didn’t want to muck it up from having no experience. So I got this kit to give me a little experience at a fairly low budget. Didn’t realize what I was getting myself into! But yeah, I think 1/350 will be an easier road now that I’ve tortured myself at 1/700. At the same time, I’ll definitely need to get it more precise. The 1/700 stuff is all done with tweezers, pins, toothpicks, and sometimes fingertips. Only so crisp you can get it. I’ll probably pick back up the Shimakaze when this one is done. I’ve got two hold and folds of different sizes and some other PE bending stuff to help me. Will certainly be a different set of techniques at that scale. The nice thing about 1/700 scale is that it you don’t have to have perfectly crisp corners because nobody will be able to tell - the bad thing is, well, it’s 1/700 scale.
  16. Thanks guys, really appreciate the kind words. @CDW - Craig you should definitely go for it. If I can do it you can. Optivisor and a pair or two of very fine tweezers is a must (one with normal action, and another that is reverse action so you can hold the tiniest parts while folding them with the other tweezer). I have to say that on 5-10x magnification, the parts look a little rough and would look like crap at 1/350 scale, but to the naked eye, these parts look pretty good at 1/700. @lmagna - Lou, welcome to the IJN side. I think we’ve had this discussion, but I’ve always liked the lines of the Japanese ships more so than the US side. The American ships (and planes during that era for that matter) have that very functional design that certainly worked well (for the most part) but to me just look less interesting. I think the only US ship I have is the Gambier Bay escort carrier by Hasegawa. For some reason, I’ve always been interested in that one.
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