Landlubber Mike

Very cool! I'm in for this one.

Looks fantastic. I agree with Egilman. Great work!!

Sorry to hear Chris, but sounds like this was the right decision. This is supposed to be a fun hobby. I terminated a wooden ship build and was disappointed in doing so, but either it or myself was going to be thrown out the window so better to just leave it where it stood.

Awesome, I'm in! I saw a Ford Galaxy in an episode of Counting Cars. Really sharp looking car - understated powerful look.

Beautiful job as always Craig. Very sharp paint job, well done! I see you have lots more room on the shelves for your "car garage" - glad to see you started a new one! Can I ask a question? Did you do anything to the door and trunk lines? They look darker/shaded perfectly. Wondering how you achieved that effect. I've been hemming and hawing on my CV2 on what to do, if anything, there and my build pretty much stalled.

Nice choice Kevin, I'm in for this one! I like the bottom one as something a little more unique but certainly more challenging. The top one is definitely a nice look as well.

Sorry, didn't catch that you were using oils either. I've never used oils so disregard what I said

Awesome! Excited to see this starting. Those Kraken upgrade sets look fantastic. Along with the very nice crispness and detail, I like the fact that they directly replace the kit parts, rather than have you remove sections of a part and replace with PE, etc. Much cleaner and less fuss that way. Could the issue be that the paints are thinned a bit too much? I see what you mean about the camo pattern being tricky, but if it were me, I think I would try to mask and airbrush -- but that's mostly because I suck at hand brushing. I'm certainly nowhere near as experienced or skilled as you, so take my thoughts for what you paid for them. But, if I was going to mask, I could see going one of two ways. First way would be to draw the camo lines in pencil on the hull, add a thin masking tape like Tamiya over the section, trace the outline onto the tape, remove the tape, cut the outline, and then add the tape back. That would be two tape lifts before the final stick on the hull, so that might be pushing things when it comes to getting the tape to tightly fit to the hull. Another approach might be to again draw the lines in camo, then use a liquid mask. I haven't tried liquid masks yet, but from what I've seen, they seem to work nicely when lines are irregular. Again, just how I would think about approaching the camo. Good luck - this is going to be a fantastic build (and an educational log to follow!), so I'm happy to see you started.

Looking great Popeye, you're on the home stretch! Nice work!

Ha! For some reason she seemed somewhat supportive of the idea - or at least didn't hit me with a frying pan or anything.

Very nice! Love the added sails, great job!

Great subject Craig, and nice save. It's amazing how much better the molding is on newer kits compared with the ones from a few decades ago. Too bad for cars like this you generally need to look at the older stuff. I'm jealous! I was driving my mom's old Nissan Sentra in grad school, and with three kids, I was driving a minivan for the last few years (though just bought myself an SUV). I told my wife I'm getting a 60s-early 70s muscle car when I retire. I'll be old and not single, but still worth it!

Great job as always Kevin. That green paint job is stunning. I haven't been as enamored with the Japanese planes because of the green, but after seeing your build it's growing on me.

Nice job!! Looks fantastic!

Nice! Funny you mentioned this - my parents saved some fantasy miniatures I painted 30 years ago as a kid. Recently I found them in a box in my basement and put them out for my kids to take a look at. Surprisingly they held up well all these years.

Wow, that looks amazing! Just saw they have a 1:200 Bismarck upcoming as well 🤩

Fantastic work Bob!

Coming along nicely OC! Looks like it will be a nice sized model.

Nicely done Kevin!

Great job Denis!!!

Wow man, relax. From everything I've read - and I read a lot when setting things up on my end - having a dust extraction at the tool itself is one of the best things you can do. If the Rabbit works, that's great. Good for you. I wasn't denigrating anyone or anything.

Thanks man! Every time I see your log I'm so tempted to start my Yukikaze, but I'm trying to have only one plastic ship going at a time. Still need to finish my 1/700 Hatsuzakura destroyer which hopefully I can get done by the end of the year. The PE is just so small I need to be of a particular mindset - i.e., masochistic - to work on it

I run my Byrnes tools through a Fein shop vac, with a Dust Deputy cyclone canister to lower the load on the shop vac and save on bags. I also have an overhead Rikon filtration unit that is supposed to pull in dust that doesn't make it into the Fein. If you are going to use a shop vac, be aware that you might need an adaptor if the tool is imperial and the vac is metric or vice versa. Fein being German, I had to use a combo of two different adaptors to connect the Fein to the Brynes tools. I'd be curious if that Rabbit is sufficient for dust collection. My Byrnes tools kick out a lot of sawdust - I think you want to capture as much of the particulate as possible as it comes out of the machine, rather than wait for it to eventually get pulled into a contraption like the Rabbit. Plus, some particulate is heavy and will immediately fall, the rest light and may stay airborne. Not saying it can't work, but I think the safest thing is to try to capture as much as you can at the tool as possible.

Nicely done! Congratulations! Mikasa will be a good second one to work on

Looks really cool Craig, nice work! I saw someone build a Ducati that used carbon/graphite decals to stunning effect on the body of the motorcycle. Maybe that was posted here on MSW, I forget, but was really awesome. Going to look fantastic on your Ferrari.