MEDDO

I am between modelling projects at the moment. Some time ago, I managed to acquire some additional stocks of very nice modelling timber from Jeff Hayes when he closed down his Hobbymill operation, so I decided that the Capstan model project from the NRG would be a good use for some of that stock and would give me a nice entry back into the scratch building side of things. Plans and instructions are by Toni Levine. As I have all of the toys, I decided to go straight for the Advanced version – hopefully, I won’t regret that decision down track!
 
I will be building at a scale of 1:16, as Toni did in her version.
 
I have downloaded all of the instructions and plans, ensuring that I had the amended version. The first challenge was to create a cutting list to determine the stock sizes I would need. As Toni has provided drawings with full size measurements in decimal inches, I decided that the easiest approach would be to create a spreadsheet to do all of the conversions for me. As my lathe and mill are both calibrated in metric units, I set up the spreadsheet to spit out measurements in both scale millimetres and scale inches (both decimal and fractional). I then went through all of Toni’s drawings and entered in the full size measurements and let the spreadsheet work it’s magic. While I was at it, I made a separate part of the spreadsheet a simple converter to use for other measurements as they crop up. This is proving to be a very useful tool, so I’ve attached it here in case anyone else might want to use it and save themselves from having to duplicate the effort. I take no responsibility for the accuracy of the information!!!
 
Capstan Parts Scale Converter.xlsx 
 
With that task completed, I then went through my stash of timbers and selected some pieces that were close to the right thickness and processed them through my full size drum sander until I had all stock material to the appropriate thickness. I’ll be using Pear for the Beams and Carlings, Red Heart for the Hatch Coaming, and Box for the majority of the rest. I may use Red Heart for the Capstan Bars also, but I’ll reserve a final decision on that until I reach that point.
 
Toni’s Practicum is very well laid out and not only identifies parts by part number but also groups these together into sub-assemblies. This is a really useful inclusion (thanks Toni 😊). Although the sub-assemblies can theoretically be completed in any order, I will follow along in the same order that Toni has used – I figure that way there is less chance for me to screw it up.
 
The Deck and Hatch collectively make up Assembly 100. This comprises sub-assemblies 101 (Grating), 102 (Hatch), 103 (Deck) and 104 (Capstan Step). We begin with the Deck.
Deck (P/N 103)
Although I will need to use metric measurements when it comes time to use the lathe and/or mill, for the most part it is more convenient to work in fractional inches, simply because of the way the scaling works out (eg 1/2" vs 12.7mm). My spreadsheet gives me the scale size to the nearest 1/16 inch (although I can check against the decimal inches (thousandths) if required. A glance at the spreadsheet tells me that the Beams are made from 1/2" stock and the Carlings from 9/32” stock. These were cut to final length and width on the Byrnes Saw. The Beams were then numbered and marked with a carpenter’s triangle to ensure correct alignment before being arranged in my magnetic holding jig for marking out. I first marked the centreline and then laid out the mortices from the centreline. 
 

 
Markings were made lightly in pencil to begin with, with the inner edges of the mortices being defined from the measurements in the drawings, and the outer edge defined by placing the actual Carling on the beam to get the exact width.
 
The marks were then transferred onto the vertical surfaces and a knife used to mark all cross-grain lines, while a marking gauge was used to mark all along-the-grain marks. This gave me some very well-defined layout lines. (I went over the cut lines in pencil just for greater visibility).
 

 
The mortices sides were then cut using a razor saw (in much the same way as one would cut the sides of a half-blind dovetail) and the remaining waste removed slowly and carefully with a full sized very sharp 3/8” chisel. The tenons were cut on the Byrnes saw using the sliding cross-cut table and a stop to ensure that all tenons were exactly the same size. I had one very minor “oops” with the chisel – see if you can pick it. Here is the result:
 

 
Once satisfied with the fit, the pieces were glued up. I was reasonably happy with results.
 

 
I then made up a mixture of pear wood sawdust and diluted white glue and rubbed this over the joints and allowed it to dry overnight before giving it all a final sand with 240 grit today. As per Toni’s instructions, I also gave the underside edges of all Beams and Carlings a very slight round-over. Here is a shot of both the upper and under sides ready for the next step:
 

 

 
The Capstan Step will be next...
 

After years of building with equipment all over the house which I had to drag out and then store again, I now have a dedicated shop. Yippee! I replaced the original structure which was a shed attached to my barn with the new structure which has heat and air conditioning as well as exhaust fans. I split it into two rooms one of which is for sawing, filing and anything which creates dust. The other room is for metal work and assembly. I also included a fly tying table as I am an avid fly fisherman. I still have plenty of room left over to add tools. I'm thinking of a thickness sander but I don't need it yet.
Richard

After adding the anchors and their rigging and the stanchions I can say that I am finished.
 
This was a fun build and I learned some new skills and also learned patience.

With Speedwell back in her home port I can commence the rigging. I have not sat idly by during her absence though and have fully prepared her masts and spars to expedite rigging upon her return. I will be using ropes and tackle made by Chuck as they are the finest commercially available in my opinion. As well I will be using Johann's excellent Creole log for inspiration. All the masting, sparring and rigging is fully described in volume two of the Speedwell series so I won't be going into quite as much detail as previously. As my last rigged model was constructed over twenty years ago I expect to proceed at a glacial pace. For me the process is more enjoyable than looking at the finished product.
 
In the photo below one can see the unusual tops which are present on the contemporary model. I found them aesthetically unpleasing and have constructed the more traditional top I am used to seeing. If anyone can cite a contemporary model with the original tops constructed as per Speedwells I would appreciate a photo.
 

I could have built it in 45 minutes.  But I wanted to make sure that you guys slow down.  I have seen so many people rushing through the build.  Some are barely cleaning the laser char and it looks awful.  
 
I am not just talking about the Winnie build.  I am talking about build logs in general.    As kits get more sophisticated with more laser cut parts….Instead of seeing more care, I see rushing through the steps and “assembly” like a plastic kit.  Folks. are not even removing the char….they are just gluing the parts together.   I think folks see my final results and dont really understand how much time I actually spend on each piece.  I thought this would be an excellent opportunity to talk about that.   Its why my model is taking so long to build.   I could rush this model and finish it in  3 months if I wanted to.   
 
So I purposely want to mention that even though I could have assembled the belfry in 45 minutes…I chose to spend 6 hours on it.  Carefully cleaning the char…and shaping the pieces for a best fit. 
 
I wanted to mention it because the areas we are modeling now will show very prominently.  The belfry…the ships wheel….the binnacle….the upper capstan….etc.  This will make or break how your model turns out.  So I want folks to really slow down.
 
Everyone can do it.  They have the skills.  But they suffer from the number one nemesis of  ship modelers…..impatience.
 
Impatience can take a model that would be a ten and quickly make it a five…and I dont  understand it.
 
Everyone needs to slooooow down.  Because it shows.  If I am being honest, when I look at the progress photos in a log for someone....again not just Winnie logs.....I find myself saying,  "That looks pretty good but why didnt they slow down, clean the glue smears,  clean the char,  or fill the gaps."   "Just an extra hour and that would have been excellent."  
 
So I know I have said this 1000 times but I thought this would be the proper time to to offer again some sage mentoring and advice.   Force yourself to take twice as long or even three times as long to build the next chapter.  Slow down and really take your time with the next two or three chapters.  It will transform your model.
 
 
 
 

I installed the capstan barrel and drum head, which completes the capstan project.
 

 

 

 
This was a fun project and I especially enjoyed the scratch build aspect. I am not sure I am ready to tackle a whole ship as a scratch build project but it is not out of the question in the future. Thanks to the NRG and especially Toni Levine for her great instructions and plans, and her help during this build.

I've long been interested in attempting a scratch build but I was simultaneously hesitant because I over analyze everything and couldn't get past finding lumber of the correct dimensions - enter Modeler's Sawmill. I finally threw caution the the wind and inquired if @Joe V could put together an Echo framing package for me in Alaskan Yellow Cedar - The smell is incredible. I choose the Echo cross section (tricky framing and all) because my end goal is to attempt an admiralty style fully framed hull and I thought the skills  developed in this build "should" put me on a path towards that goal. I have picked up the TFFM series to help me along though the first volume is most applicable for the initial framing portion of the build. If this goes well I plan on fully fitting out the build, but we'll make that final call when I get there.
 
My power tools are limited (Byrnes Saw and Disc sander...I can see the usefulness of a spindle sander for touching up the frames but workshop space is limited so I'll see what I can do without one) so this build will progress at a leisurely pace (that pace is also do to the fact that I have no idea what I'm doing so please, any tips pointers and corrections are welcomed). I have printed out the keel plans and away we go (I see some mention of using a table saw to cut out the keel joint - I assume this is done by taking slow swipes and creating the joint through the blade's kerf? I can't envision a safe way to accomplish this otherwise). Wish me luck!

PS - If I can remember I'll try to include some pictures of my failed attempts at parts so that anyone following along can see that if I can do this then you can too.

I had a great time building this cross section, and learned a huge amount.  There are lots of people on MSW who are probably better sources of advice than me, but if you need input from someone who also tends to "over analyze everything," I'm happy to help any time.  I'm really looking forward to seeing your progress.  Great work on your practice pieces.  
 
Dave

I like that you are working at a pub.  Or is that your living room......

Great company and great service.  I just received this today.  I had ordered the book (and received it) back when it was first available.
 

Sorcery! Magic! Witchcraft!

Time to make and attach the sheer strake. There is a thread attached to the frames that indicates the junction between the undersurface of the covering board and the sheer strake. I decided to spile the entire length of the sheer strake, so first I had to put together cardstock long enough to cover the entire length of the sheer.
 

 
The cardstock was cut to the approximate shape of the sheer and then tacked to the frames with double sided tape.
 

 
Marks were transferred to the cardstock, and the shape of the curves was defined with ships curves.
 

 
The cardstock is now applied to a sheet of Castello that is about 0.053” thick. This is thicker than the rest of the planking, which will be 0.047” thick. The picture also shows the starboard side sheer strake, which was previously created using the same process.
 

 
Widths of the sheer plank were obtained from the planking diagram and transferred to the Castello sheet. Then the plank was carefully cut out and sanded to the needed widths.
 

 
Port and starboard sheer strakes. I could have divided the long segment into individual segments as indicated by the planking diagram, but I thought it was a good idea to do the first plank as one continuous plank, to serve as a baseline against which all the other planks would lie. I think that worked out nicely.
 

 
There were some problems along the way in getting to a smooth lie of the sheer strake, but all is well that ends well. The one long strake was divided into its respective parts as indicated by the planking diagram; the challenge there was to make sure that no kinks occurred at the butt joints between plank segments.
 

 
Now that is a very satisfying curve.

I'm finally back from New Jersey, where we ironically ran into a hurricane. Nearly six weeks away didn't change my mind about redoing the forward pump handles, so that was the first thing that I did upon returning. Next, I did the aft handles. After those, the elm pumps were next. I was having trouble creating slots in the laser cut brackets for the handles, so I chose to make up my own by laminating three pieces of 1/32" strip and shaping  that assembly appropriately. To complete the chapter seven work, I added the remaining deck beams and their knees.
 
Now, I will wait for Chuck's return and the release of the chapter eight parts and the stove.
 
Bob

Hi All, 
 
With a return to onsite work slowly approaching full-time, my modeling at home has taken a severe and gut-wrenching slow-down.   For context, I commute 2.5 hours each way, 5-days a week.   I take a bike, a bus, a boat and a train - so lots of down time just sitting.   Ive been looking for ways to scratch that itch and express my interests in ships and ship modeling when I cant be at the bench at home and started messing around more seriously with available "soft-CAD" programs available on things like iPad.   Some time ago I discovered Shapr3d and used it to design and build my home workshop and found it incredibly useful and very intuitive to use.   This is not a full-featured CAD program, and it is likely that a seasoned CAD user will likely find it limiting.   However, if you simply want to tinker casually without being bogged down by 1000 features you'll never use, and are looking for a way to build things when you cant be in your workshop than this is a great option.   
 
When I first picked it up I had ZERO experience and learned the program pretty quickly.   The available online tutorials help a great deal.  
 
In the last week, I used the practicum designed by @tlevine available at NRG to build the British capstan project virtually.   I did all of this work in 2 hour stints while traveling to and from work, using the pdf of the plans to model each component and then assemble.   I still intend to build this project in wood very soon, but for the time being found this little exercise well worth it.   In either case, its a great way to prototype ideas and work out designs.   I tried to build as close to the specs and steps outlined in the practicum.  In a way, I think Im better prepared to have a go at the real thing as now Im intimately aware some of the complicated aspects of the model design.
 
Modeling the beams and carlings...

Modeling the capstan step, marking out, bolt holes and brakes...



Grate ledges, grates....

Barrel, Drum Head, Welps, Chocks, Chains
 


Final Assembly, Completion

 

Lower Planking has finally been completed and 1st sanding to 220grit, I just added the stern post and will now sand everything to 400grit and apply some WOP.
I'm Pretty happy overall with how it came out, there were a few issues around the tuck of the counter, the flow up the bow came out Ok and the Frame reveal is as I had planned it. I don't know if I would use Holly again for an entire hull as its damn expensive these days ( more than boxwood $$$$ ) but I like the color and it looks even better in natural light with a good contrast to the wales.
That's the end of Chapter 2.
 
Ben

Lower deck beams #14 to #19
The main difference and problem is fitting the beams and lodging knees where the strake of the deck clamp rises more sharply than the deck, and no longer forms support’ as for the previous beams.
Referring to other blogs, this doesn’t appear to happen, which was quite depressing until I reread TFFM p222 again, which confirmed, in this at least, I hadn’t screwed up.
The lodging knee also need more acute chamfering and narrowing to match the fellows more forward.
Noteworthy, the framing of the ladder companionway, carlings 4.0mm and aft ledge 4.8mm.
Another problem is the mizzen mast partner sizes- given as 17.5mm wide, 1.86mm thick octagonal mast hole as 11.13mm
The illustrated beam pattern shows this as significantly smaller, but comparing previously made partners, and the relative diameters of their masts, simply went with the given dimensions rather than the pattern .
 

One more picture of the grating after I used an awl to make holes to simulate the fasteners. I did not fill the holes with a pencil as I wanted a more subtle look.
 

 
Next is on to the capstan barrel. I have a blank of boxwood that I will cut down to use for it. I am not sure at this time if I will go with pear or boxwood for the welps but I have both that I can use. Any opinions?

For some time now, I have been stalled out. This is probably because I am at the point of beginning the attachment of the frames to the keel. I could probably keep fairing the frames, a process that I hate, in order to put off the next step. But I feel like I need to accept the hull shape as it is, and get on with next things.
 
First of those things is to go ahead and attach the bow filler blocks and frame 1 to the keel, as well as attach the transom assembly to the sternpost. I also attached the penultimate frame, which is #50. This is shown above. On the building board, the frames at each station are waiting in their slots for the keel to be attached to them.
 

 
It was terribly important to get this step right and to ensure that the keel is completely inserted into the notch on each frame. So I glued two frames in place at a time, elevating the keel just enough to get the glue into the space between them before lowering the keel down onto the frames.
 

 
After applying glue and getting everything in place, I weighted the keel with a piece of wood. FYI, that is a piece of “African boxwood” from rarewoodusa.com in Maine. The species is given as “Buxus macowanii”. I have not used any of the wood I bought from them in the model yet; thus far I have been testing it out for its carving qualities.
 

 
All of the station frames have been attached, yielding this delicate structure when it is removed from the building board.
 

 
And so begins the process of adding in all the frames between the stations. This was even slower, because of the need to once again make sure that each frame articulated correctly with the keel. Failure to do so would cause focal unfairness at that frame that would be most noticeable along the bottom of the boat and at the rabbet.
 

 
 
 

 
The last two frames are about to be glued in place.
 

 
Most of the frames are in the form of the one on the right on the table top. However, about every fifth frame has been trimmed to its proper molded dimension, and that information comes directly from measuring the dimensions of the frames on the real ship.
 

 
All frames are now glued in place. I ended up finding one frame, about #11, which was not fully lodged into its slot on the keel. It is not evident on this photograph, as the difference is probably only 1/32”. It is visible if one gets up close to it. But I decided not to do anything about it.
 
The whole reason for this exercise? I may have covered this before, but will go over it again. I wish to be able to leave part of the hull unplanked and show the interior structure of the hull. But building this model in the same way as one might build a fully framed fifth rate of the Royal Navy would be very difficult, as the frames would become very fine and fragile. It just wouldn’t be possible to accurately plank a structure consisting of a backbone keel and rib-like frames that are very pliable. So the plan is to plank up nearly all of the hull, leaving part of one side unplanked.
 
I don’t yet know if I will fully plank the hull and then remove some of the planking, or if I will simply leave an area unplanked as I go along. I am favoring the idea of fully planking the hull, but only lightly gluing the planks that will later be removed. This is because I am planning on trimming out the majority of the material that forms the frames once the planking is finished, bringing the frame dimensions down to their proper molded dimensions. Thus the importance of having every fifth frame trimmed down to its proper molded dimension, so as to serve as a guide to that process. I will probably only do this for a certain portion of the hull, leaving the frames untrimmed in the bow and stern. In order to have the hull as stable as possible before doing the interior trimming, I think it would be best to have the hull fully planked.
 
Feel free to offer opinions in support or in critique of this plan!
 

 
So, all frames are in place. This really was a big psychological step, because from here one has no place to go besides getting on with the planking. And I certainly like planking far better than fairing the hull. Honestly, I could have spent more time fairing, and there are areas where there will be gaps between the frames and the planking. But it was time to move on, and gaps can be dealt with later.
 

 
This process illustrated in the two pictures above was very satisfying. As has previously been suggested by a commentator on this log, I used black thread to lay out the top of the sheer plank, where it meets the covering board. The plans indicate that this point is to be found on each frame, very consistently 7/16” below the top of each frame (also the bottom surface of the rail). So this point was marked out on each frame on port and starboard sides. The thread was then glued with white glue to these points, which yielded a surprisingly crooked line that was probably due to marking error. After all, the line should parallel the surface of the baseboard, which is cut to follow the curve of the rail at its undersurface.
 

 
 
This picture of the aft portion of the hull gives some sense of the crookedness of the line, if just left to my marks.
How satisfying indeed, then, to be able to look at the curve of the baseboard, and then simply moisten the glue spots on the thread and adjust the thread up or down as needed in order to obtain a fair curve! It’s one of those moments where I feel like an actual shipbuilder. I don’t have good photos to show the process in action, because to do so requires photos with very great depth of field, and those involve long exposure times. In the end, though, I am left with a very smooth and well defined line to follow when I attach the sheer strake.
 
I am going to stop at this point lest I make the post too long and cumbersome to transfer to the web page. Hopefully the next post showing the application of the sheer strake will follow promptly!

Outstanding result Ryland.  Your build has been a joy to follow.  You should be proud of this work and I eagerly await your next build

Earlier this week I painted the oars, attached the flag and hung some rope coils on the flag halliard.  My Medway Longboat is now finished.
 
This has been a very enjoyable build.  I want to thank many people for their help and encouragement along the way.  A special thank you goes out to Chuck who offered advice and encouragement throughout my build.  I have seen Chuck's model in person at three ship model shows and I have taken many photos of his model to use as a reference for my build.  I also appreciate that Chuck designed a kit that a novice builder like me can build and the end result is a model that looks way better than what my skills could produce.  I also appreciate all of the builders of this kit that posted their build logs on MSW.  If your build logs were a book, I would have worn out the pages as I referred to your build logs for many of the tasks that I completed in my build.  I also want to thank all of those members who looked in on my build log and made comments or hit the like button.  Your reactions to my posts were a motivating force to move on to the next step of construction.
 
Here are photos of my Medway Longboat, a fantastic kit by Syren Ship Model Company:
 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Did some weathering with my AK Interactive weathering pencils. I may tone it down a bit on the carriages.
 
Left side is before and right is weathered.
 
 

Decided to spend the rainy day working on the Winnie.  This starts Chapter 9.
 
Happily, this is the chapter where we will cover up all remaining traces of the sub structure and bulkheads.  It will hopefully start looking much cleaner very soon.  
 
To begin, the bulwarks along the qdeck were planked at last.   There are two laser cut pieces to make this easier.  They are 3/64" thick. I added the aft section on both sides first.  You should shape it for a perfect fit first.  I made it a tad higher just in case there is some variation model to model.  You also have to notch it over the margin plank along the transom.  Then make life easier for yourself and paint these pieces while its off the model. 
 
Then glue them in position.   Repeat the process with the forward half of the qdeck bulwarks.  You can see the forward section for the port side laying on deck.  That will be added next before moving on to the fcastle.  Dont mind the dust.  I should have given it a blast of "air in a can"  to clean it up before taking the pictures.  Sorry about that.
 

For the fcastle bulwarks there is no need for laser cutting.  Just use a 7/32" wide strip cut to length and pre-bent.  I suppose a 1/4" wide strip would work to and just cut it down to fit.  I pre-bent the strip (3/64" thick) and then clamped it in position.  Then I traced the proper height and trimmed it to fit perfectly in one length.  But before doing so I added one short length against the bollard timber at the bow.  This is a flat piece painted red before gluing it in position.  Then you can use this to help position the long strip for the facstle bulwarks.  
 
I also pre- bent this long piece and once a perfect fit I pre-painted this as well.  Made for a nice clean edge against the deck beams although it wont matter because we will be adding the margin planks at some point soon.
 

It already looks so much nicer that I dont have to look at the bulkeads any more.  But lets keep going.
 
Time to add the caprail.  This will cover all the messy layers and finally close up all the framing so I no longer have to look at it.  So far I have only added the caprail along the waist.  A 5/16" x 3/64" strip was used.   I rounded off the outboard edge on top and bottom.  This edge will look nice this way above the fancy molding.   Then I painted it black while off the model including the inboard and outboard edges.  In fact those were most important.  When glued in position the inboard edge is flush against the bulwarks with no overhang.  The outboard edge should have much of an overhang but look nice being directly above the bright unpainted fancy molding.  
 

 
Here is an over picture of the model.....I will now add the caprail working my way aft first.  Then I will do the fcastle.  These pieces will be laser cut.
 

 
The bulwarks are widest in the waist at 5/16”…give or take.  If you have a need for a wider caprail that would be problematic.  There is nothing worse than an oversized and thick bulwarks.  It just means you didnt fair them down thin enough early in the project.  
 
The bulwarks and caprail are slightly narrower along the drifts and qdeck and the fcastle.  These next pieces will be laser cut so the width of your bulwarks will matter. These pieces will have cut-outs for the timberheads.

We concluded the workshop today and had 172 in attendance.  Had a Q&A session after the talk concluded and everybody had the opportunity to ask questions.
Many who registered did not show up but will be able to view the recording in the near future.  We will send an email to NRG members to view it on the members side of the website.  Those few non-members who signed up will get an email also.  It isn't going to be posted immediately but within a short time.
 
 

Hello, Allan. The accurate positioning and stable clamping of the model are the key points. So I don't spend any less time making tools than I do making models. May you experience the joy of building!

She was built as a cutter (1882), hence the lovely lines.
 
ETA to include my rough initial drawings for Nisha sail plan