mort stoll
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Everything posted by mort stoll
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Hi Craig, Here is what I did. To use plan #15 diagram #7 as an example......look at block #276. It looks like it is a single block. Check the table at the bottom right of the plans. Look for #276. The first # is a 4. That means you need 4 blocks to rig the boats 2 per boat. The 1x4 means it is a 4mm single block. For Block #356 in Diagram #242 - bottom left - on Plan #15 look on the tables at the right of the plan sheet until you find the sheet with #356 listed. In this case it is sheet # 10. A 3mm single block. What I also do on my plans is to label each and every block and line on each sheet. I find it saves me time when I have to rig the line or spar and gives a me a mental picture of the rigging and really does not take that long. Hope this helps. If not do not hesitate. Mort
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very nice. very very nice. Mort
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Thanks Ray, I agree the kits bell has to be replaced. Thanks, Mort
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- diana
- caldercraft
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Forgot to include in my last post that when you attach the blocks and eyebolts to the deck make sure that any standing rigging schrouds and running rigging lines are attached to them before they are glued onto the deck. Rigging is like hull planking and coppering. It is one day at a time and just try to do a little each day. I also had my copies of Lever and Peterssen at my side for reference. Once you finish rigging this ship there will be no ship you will not be able to rig. Mort
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- Constitution
- Mamoli
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Hi Ray, Great job as always. where did you get the brass bell? Mort
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Hi Bill, I completely assembled all of the masts - bow sperit, fore, main and mizzen - with all of the attached yards with their blocks off of the ship. I also attached as much of the standing and running rigging as I could - lifts, hallards, sheets, etc... whatever I could and labeled each line so I could attach them to the proper belaying pins after the masts were stepted. The rigging plans I thought were clear and easy to follow, and I did. I labeled each and every one of the blocks and lines with their dimensions on all the various plans diagrams as this I felt was easier than looking at the part numbers and referring back to the glossary for their sizes, This also helped to familiarize me with the actual rigging and really took no time at all to accomplish. I installed the ratlines last as this enables one to access the deck easier than if they were installed earlier. I prefer to work from bow to stern - another of my NJ Club members swares by stern to bow - and bottom to top. Hope this helps, if not do not hesitate to contact me, Mort PS Call me crazy but I thoroughly enjoyed rigging this ship, as I am sure you will.
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Hang in there big guy. One step, one day at a time. You are going to be amazed at the finished product. Mort
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Ger, I plan to experiment when I build my own Connie - in probably 3-4 years from now by getting a piece of wood and shaping it to resemble - very much easier said than done - the stern and try to build my own quarter galleries. In about 6 months I should complete my Snake and plan to build the Diana. Her quarter galleries are built entirely from wooden pieces included in the kit. I hope this will give me some insite into the Connies galleries. You might try to PM Ray and Barbosa about their quarter galleries. They are both posting Diana build logs on this forum and doing a great job.. Mort
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I envy the Captain being able to stand on that gorgeous deck in command of that beautiful frigate. Mort
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Admiral Nelson would have been very proud of you. Mort
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Welcome to our world. I too have the kit under my work table and will follow your build with great interest. I agree with you concerning the copper plates, hull planks and even the deck planks. I bought all of that from Bluejacket a month after I bought my kit at quite an expense. My Caldercraft kits came complete with copper plates hull and deck planks, and the Diana cost less than the basic Bluejacket Connie kit. If I had my Byrnes saw I could have cut my own, but I bought the saw a few months later. I have used copper tape that I bought at a doll house store - for Mamoli Connie - and while I was satisfied with the results I prefer the copper plates. They look more realistic as far as I am concerned. You are off to a great start. Concerning the quarter galleries and this is out of the box but you might want to consider removing the wood at the stern and building them from scratch, I look forward to more posts, Mort
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Thanks very much and keep posting. Your build is wonderful. Mort
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Hi Jason, Is the bullseye in the Blue Jacket Catalogue? Thanks, Mort
- 800 replies
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- snake
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Welcome back. Glad you enjoyed the trip. I look forward to more posts. Mort
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Happy birthday my friend. Many, many, many more. Mort
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Hi Glen, No thanks necessary. I cannot thank you enough for positing this great log. Mort
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Am curious. is it 1mm back from the 2nd planking or the wale level? Thanks, Mort
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Very nice, Very very nice. Mort
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Welcome back, Just curious. Any particular reason you left the skylight natural as opposed to paining it red and black like the capsan? Thanks, Mort
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Hi Rob, Where did you get the decals for the ammo boxes? Mort
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I was thinking of attaching it to one of the mast cleats. Mort
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Those are the gundeck ports, correct? Are you supposed to line all of the other ports? Mort
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I should have married her. You are a lucky man. Mort
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- caldercraft
- Victory
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Hay Mobbsie, You should be very proud, Can you post any pix? I would love to see them. All the best as always, Mort
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- agamemnon
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