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Jack12477
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Everything posted by Jack12477
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Mark, you could also use a Macaroni chisel (yes, there is such a chisel and it's not made from semolina ). Pfeil makes them down to 4 mm in width. Some other brands may go as small as 2 mm. It has a square shape and cuts on three sides. Looks like picture below. Would be far easier than trying to program the laser. BTW I have two of these chisels. Looks great as is tho. Nice job. -
Jeff, really nice job. Like the roof shingles. Your daughter will love it.
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I avoid CA and use it only as a last resort. I use either white school glue or dilute PVA (yellow) glue for all lines, ropes, etc. and then only a drop or two. I have a friend who insists on using the runniest CA on the market when tying his ratlines and he doesn't care how much runs down the shroud(s) as he works his way up to the trestle-trees. By the time he gets finished the shrouds and ratlines are as stiff as steel gable. Can't convince him to stop; but then it's his ship ..........................
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Dave, I like the Tar Heel blue stern. Came out nice. Is the rest of the hull bottom white or a very light shade of blue? Can't tell for sure from photos. Bamboo looks great also. Nice job.
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Rick, I understand what you mean about using weathering to bring out or enhance small detail, example small rivets, etc. Unfortunately I do not have any nautical examples to show you. The weathered sails Steve posted above is an excellent example of weathering to make sails look aged (in fact his scale sails closely resemble the 1:1 scale 100 year old sails on some of our clubs ice yachts). I would study his results to pick up the technique. The only example I have at the moment of weathering something other than small detail is this photo of an N-scale rotary snow plow. The weathering was done using Floquil grimy black. It was done using the technique I described in my earlier post. I may have some other examples tucked away in storage boxes, if I can locate them I will post pictures here. I agree Tamiya makes excellent paints. If you can find the original Floquil or PolyS brands of paints they also have an excellent selection of weathering colors. Unfortunately they are no longer being manufactured - as far as I can tell. I have not tried any of the newer brands that have come on the market in recent years. Weathering a ship's deck would be interesting to do. I've never tried it only because I preferred pristine ship models. Weathering the effects of water spilling down the side of a ship from the scuppers and/or bilge pumps would be interesting to do also. Paste chalks and/or charcoal sticks would make some interesting grime effects. You've brought up an interesting topic, thanks for doing so.
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Steve, fantastic job on the sails. They do look well weathered. Rick, you pretty much described the technique in your post but I'll try to elaborate a little more on it. The method I use is to dip only the very tip of the brush in a small amount of paint, then "paint" a paper towel with a back and forth stroke until the paint is almost gone (like maybe 98-99%), then brush it on the surface I want to "weather". (Don't wipe the brush with a cloth or paper towel as if you are trying to clean it.) If there is not enough paint left on the brush to leave a "streak" on the surface, then repeat the process leaving a tiny bit more paint on the brush. It's a trial and error process until you get the feel for it. Practice on any flat surface you don't care about until you get the hang of it. Use short strokes, don't try to cover a long area at once, use repetitive short strokes to basically streak the area. I generally use a flat brush rather than a pointed tip brush. Another technique is to get some artists pastel chalks and/or charcoal sticks. Using a knife scrape the chalk/charcoal to get a small amount of "dust" on a piece of paper, then using a very clean dry brush, pick up some of the dust and either wipe in on or just place it down on the surface (latter makes it look like accumulated "dust/dirt/grunge"). Once you have the look you want use an artists fixative to permanently set it in place (hold the spray can well back so the air blast doesn't blow the dust off - you just want to mist the fixative over the piece). Hope this helps explain it.
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Hi Jeff, I echo Mark's thoughts - sorry to hear about the pacemaker - The dollhouse looks fantastic, your daughter will love it. I will keep your wife in my thoughts and prayers also. Hang in there.
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Great news Jeff. Glad she is up and walking around. Hope the hospital stay is a short one.
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Will do! Hope all goes well !
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I second what Mark said above. Mine is no work of art but even at 9 years of age my granddaughter still asks me to bring it out of storage for her to play with and this was her mother's and aunt's doll house. I might add that this doll house is about 35 years old give or take. Yours looks great. Stay the course. She will love it.
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I don't know how elaborate you want to get but I picked up some scale wallpaper and floor "tile" in a local doll house supply store. Comes in 8.5 x 11 sheets, real easy to use. The "flooring" is a solid sheet - like linoleum - but just glues down and cuts easily. Have fun !
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It's looking good. She'll love it. Built one myself for my two daughters - still have it - Granddaughters played with it till they outgrew it. I mounted mine on a piece of 1/2 inch plywood and put wheels (casters) under it so they could move it around. Bought sheet (paper) with fake grass on it from model RR shop and glued it down for a lawn.
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I have to echo what was said above. The rigging looks superb. Great job, Brian.
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Looking for a Bench Top Drill Press
Jack12477 replied to FlounderFillet5's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Max I have a bench top Sears Craftsman drill press I've had for decades. Also have a Dremel 389 with the Dremel drill press. I mostly use the Dremel for the real small stuff and the Sears for larger stuff. The Sears is similar in size to the Skill bench top Mark has from Lowes.- 31 replies
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Just pulled up a crate to follow along !
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Very nice rigging !
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Nice job on the rigging, Ken. Also like that blue background, it almost resembles a cloudy sky.
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Pulling up a chair to watch. This sounds intriguing ! BTW I like the finished model in the first photo
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Ken, my one and only attempt at card-stock models. An N-scale D&RGW Rotary Snow Plow - card-stock over a wood base. Built in some time in the late 1970's been in a box in a drawer with my other N-scale rolling stock since probably 1981-82 Your model is looking good !
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Your method paid off well. Nice looking set of ratlines.
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Edward, in addition to a Dremel (which is a great tool) you might also consider this small sander from MicroMark http://www.micromark.com/micro-sander,7704.html. I have one and it works well for small sanding jobs where the Dremel would be too powerful. I use both Dremel and this a lot. Update: These sanding wands from MicroMark also work well - I have a set of 4 in different grits http://www.micromark.com/micro-sanding-wand-set,7760.html Another inexpensive way of making sanding sticks is to buy sheets of sandpaper of various grits from 60 up to 320 or higher; some popsicle sticks (or something wider), lay the sticks on the paper and cut the paper to fit the stick (use an old Xacto blade) then use double-stick (two sticky sides) Scotch (or other brand) tape, place the tape on the stick, cut to size, then press the stick onto the sandpaper. They wear out after a while but you can easily change the paper. Also wrap a piece of sandpaper around a large dowe to get at curved surfaces.
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Nigel, I'm a little late to your sail color discussion but these photos were taken in 1991 on the Hudson River of an authentic made-in-China junk - single mast with blue sails. The junk was made in China, placed on a container ship, and sent to the States. Made entirely of teak. Guy sailing bought it from the original and restored it . Don't know where it is today.
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