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Jack12477

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Everything posted by Jack12477

  1. Ken, check HIPEXEC's build starting around here He did some really nice cloth hammocks.
  2. Michael, would this Citrus based (CitrisStrip Stripping Gel) paint & varnish remover work for you? We've been using it to remove paint and varnish from a 104 year old bronze end cap from an ice boat we are restoring.
  3. Dockyard is gone but I understand that Ramelson picked up their micro chisels line - See Woodcraft catalog - the Ramelson chisels look an awful lot like the Dockyard ones. Also The Woodcraft Shop in Iowa still has Dockyard chisels in stock (till they run out)
  4. Word of caution with blades that have two cutting edges : One carving technique is to use the thumb of the opposing hand to help "power" the blade along; most carvers who use this technique place their thumb on the back edge (spline) of the blade. Double edged blades can result in some very severe cuts - doesn't take a lot of force to cut yourself with these carving blades. I know - had a few accidents myself. So be careful.
  5. Ken, nice looking knife - hope they told you it is a chip carving knife. It'll work for what you're doing but just be careful. Good luck and welcome to carving 101
  6. Frank, I notice you are using a milling machine to mill your jigs in Corian. For those of us not fortunate enough to own a mill, do you have any suggestions on how we can duplicate your fine jigs? Will a Dremel with its router attachment and a straight edge guide achieve the same results? Thanks.
  7. It's called a Bench Hook here in the States. I have several of them all of different dimensions. I have one for carving, one to hold the sharpening stone, and several miniature ones. They come in handy even if you have a standard workbench. An example of one of mine is shown in the last 3 photos of this post in the Woodcarving Group Project.
  8. No, never seen it in Lowes or Home Depot. I get it from my local woodworking shop, Warren Cutlery, in Red Hook. A full roll is about $60 but he sells it by the foot also, ($2.50/ft) so I get a linear foot at a time of each grit (120, 240, 320, 400). A foot section lasts me over a year, sometimes 2 years, before I need to resupply. Try a local woodworking shop near you, Mark.
  9. I finished sanding mine off with 400 grit dry paper. Then soaked them in isopropyl for a couple of hours, and like Chuck said, they just floated free from the base. The smallest one suffered some damage but the piece can be glued back when needed. Likewise one of the crown's suffered a small break and curled on one leg of the "R". After photographing them I put them in a safe container for later. I still have a 2nd set which I will save for a later time. Here's my results:
  10. When I was doing plastic model building, I took a 1/4 thick piece of birch plywood cut to about 18" x 24", lined the bottom (table side) with peel and stick felt to protect the dining table, tacked 1/2 sq rails around 3 sides and used that as a work surface. Those self-healing green mats in JoAnn's or Michaels work well also. The nice thing about the plywood work surface was that it was portable.
  11. I find that if I strop my #11 blades I can keep the sharp edge longer. As too re-sharpening, haven't tried to.
  12. Not sure if I want to take any more off of these without damaging them. Altho under macro photography they do seem to show knife marks still. Used sanding sticks and my 400 grit sanding "cloth" . Seems my camera is better at magnification than my headpiece. 400 grit sanding cloth - made by Mirka called Abranet. comes in grits from 80-600. Mesh material, never clogs, just tap on hard surface to clear sawdust (or use a toothbrush). - last almost forever. I have pieces I've used for almost a year without wearing it out. Has Velcro like "fuzzy" on backside so it attaches to Velcro sanders. Comes in 4 1/2 inch wide rolls, but I just buy a linear foot at a time for my uses.
  13. In addition to what Gaetan and Joe recommend let me add a good ceramic stone, usually white in color, roughly 1200-1500 grit. Do not need lubricate, sharpen dry, clean with Comet type powder cleanser and toothbrush when they get really dirty (actually it's metal deposited on the surface) - they do not clog like other stone and put a nice edge on any knife or chisel. Use them all the time on my carving knives.
  14. Some progress: Started carving the uppermost piece shown on the block, then moved to the small piece to the right of the block. Using mostly the #11 blade at this point but spent some time honing it on a ceramic stone (about 1200-1550 grit) then stropping it in a leather strop before I started carving. I'm finding that I cannot work on these for more than 1/2 hour at a time without getting a headache from eye strain. Hey, guys and gals, is anyone else going to join this fun group ? Or is it just Chuck and me ?
  15. Okay, now on to phase 2 of the carving experiment. This time I used Chuck's recommended glue. I mounted all 4 to one base - easier to carve and keep track of.
  16. Well I should have re-read Chuck's instructions before I glued mine to the base. I used yellow PVA glue and thought I might be using the base as a wall decoration for a while. After soaking in a bath of 91% isopropl alcohol for 24 hrs I was finally able to pry them loose but not without damaging one of them. Oh well, as we used to say in programming, RTFM. They are now drying out.
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