Jack12477
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Received Chuck's carving sets on Wedesday - that's my thumb for size reference. Now to get out the knives, chisels, etc and start working. First I have to glue it down, going to use a scrap piece of maple which I have laying around. Will probably use the knives on the right and left in the picture below (3/4 inch and 1 inch blade respectively) in addition to the #11 Xacto blade.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
Jack12477 replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Looks realistic, Nenad, glad I could help.- 4,152 replies
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I picked up a couple of packages of Alpha Abrasives brand foam sanding sticks about 1/8 square x 6 1/2" long at Hobby Lobby - they come in a variety of grades one side is one grade opposite side is another grade, example 100/180, 120/240 - they come 12 to a package and are color coded for ease of identifying. They are good for small work. About $4.00 a package.
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Very nicely done, Chuck
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Denis, congrats on the addition to the family. You and Tom seem to have gotten the brunt of that storm which passed well to the north of me. I did get rain last night and all day today but nothing like what was reported up north.
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Welcome back. - Nice work on the ship.
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Michael, what about the braided electrical wire used in wiring telephones or model railroads, would that be small enough? Of course you'd have to strip off the insulation.
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Michael, never thought for a nanosecond that you would even consider it. Makes for okay flotation in an RC model if you leave room for expansion while it cures but not a closed boat hull.
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Pulling up a seat also, Michael. Druxey: "expanding polyurethane foam" ? ! ? WOW how much did that distort the model? Seen that stuff used are door jambs to the point where the door wouldn't close anymore.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
Jack12477 replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Kleenex brand facial tissue works to simulate canvas. Just saturate with diluted 50-50 white glue, fold the tissue to increase thickness, ten lay over hatch, form with fingers to fit hatch, then let try. Paint when dry. I use to use it to simulate tarps lashed on model tanks, half-tracks, etc.- 4,152 replies
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Ordered mine thru Mary. Thanks
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This DVD by Everett Ellenwood on Sharpening is highly regarded by many experienced woodcarvers as a Beginners guide to sharpening. He also has a DVD for Beginner Carvers which compliments his book which I referenced in Post #3 above.
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I generally make the stop cut at right angles to the grain direction whenever possible not along the direction of the grain. Also it's a slicing action not a downward thrust trying to push the knife thru the wood, you slice across the wood. The purpose of the stop cut is to stop the grain from tearing out and to give the blade something to "bump up against". A light pressure with a very sharp blade is all that's needed. That's my experience. I found this YouTube video online that demonstrates the stop cut - in the video he's carving a Snowman Xmas ornament but the carving technique is the same whether it's a miniature as Chuck is doing or a larger Snowman as in the video. It's the same technique. In the video he alternates between the knife and a gouge - just substitute a knife for the gouge when watching his technique.
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I agree with what Chuck is saying. I've carved basswood in larger scales (starting with a block 2" x 2" x 6" or 3" x 3" x 6") and carved it down into a large figure. For the type of carving I've been doing basswood is the wood of choice, an example is here . But I have not tried carving anything in basswood (/limewood/linden wood) as small as what Chuck's describing. I'm waiting for the kits to become available so I can experiment with his design.
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Chuck, have you had any experience using Aspen or Poplar or Maple (easily found in Lowes/Home Depot) as the base instead of cherry?
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Yes, tupalo is one of the other woods used by the club members. Another is Southern Yellow pine; I tried it but without much success but more experienced carver than me have gotten some pretty good results. Basswood is good for larger figures, cuts well, tight grain but none of my fellow club members had tried to use it at the small scale you're trying. Now that you mentioned it; yes, Cherry is another our experienced members have tried. Me ! I'm still learning even tho I've been "practicing" since 2008. You model looks great ! And that Alaskan cedar looks nice also. Have to check it out. I have a club meeting this Thursday night, will consult with the more experienced members and see what they have to offer.
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I have to agree with you, Chuck. I've had the same experience with grain and a knife. Cross grain or with the grain, sharp knife cuts cleanly but against the grain it digs in and causes problems. And all the guys in my club with 20 plus years carving teach the same thing - in fact the example I gave is from one of their classes. The predominant choice among the carvers I know is basswood, followed by butternut. There's other species but those are the two I'm familiar with. Rotary cutters are a whole different ballgame. Janos is correct, grain doesn't much matter to a rotary cutter. But only 2 guys in my club are rotary cutters the rest use a knife or chisel. Edit: I should mention that the best basswood for us (USA) comes from the American midwest - mostly Wisconsin area. Cannot speak to overseas areas.
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Another way to explain grain is to think of it as microscopic hollow tubes (it actually is) bundled tightly together and running in different directions along the tree trunk/limbs. Now think of those old straw brooms from grandma's day; then think of the wood grain (tubes) as the individual straws in the broom similarly bundled together into a tight bundle. Now imagine your hand is the knife blade; running your hand down the broom starting at the handle and going in the direction of the bottom, your hand runs (cuts) smoothly over the straw (grain). Now try running your hand over the broom starting at the bottom (working end) and moving upward towards the handle, your hand (knife) digs into the straw and can't move smoothly along without breaking off chucks of straw. Grain works the same way. When you carve you want to cut with or across the grain and never against the grain. As Chuck pointed out, when you cut against the grain bad things happen. BTW, Chuck - like the playdo example.
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I agree Chuck. My Pfeil chisels would be extreme overkill on this. The DockSide micros would be more appropriate. In fact I think I use my knives a lot more that I use the chisels/gouges. You're right about the control with the knife. With the knife you are using your fingers and wrist more for "power" while with the chisels it's more the forearm muscles.
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I'm interested in seeing how the large Lyons knives work on your small carving. I plan on trying both the #11 and the Lyons. The two on the extreme right and left in the above photos are for fine detail.
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