Jump to content

Justin P.

NRG Member
  • Posts

    991
  • Joined

Everything posted by Justin P.

  1. Ill weigh-in as someone who uses airbrush techniques in my work all the time. During a recent studio renovation we had our university Environmental Health and Safety come do a instrument based analysis of our use of hobby-grade airbrush using solvent based, water based and lacquer based materials. We DO NOT use a spray booth. Our EH&S people found that the level of airborne particulates and fume exposure were below the minimum threshold to require any more PPE (personal protective equipment) than Goggles and an N-95 rated respirator (with a good seal; i.e no beard). This was important as anything more than that would have required a higher degree of PPE and thus medical clearance to wear. To be clear they tested us during a typical use scenario of up to 30 minutes of continual spraying in a confined space (approximately 14 x 20' room) using hobby-grade equipment. Most of the advice here meets the recommendation that you have good airflow (at least a fan) and lung protection (essential). The spray both really only protects your working areas from over-spray. For you bearded guys... the straight forward opinion we received was that your beard basically ruins the effectiveness of the N-95 mask, and you should consider something more substantial.
  2. Looking great. I’m enjoying this build, makes me want to pull my documents out from when I built it and give it a go as a small scratch build.
  3. I’ve never used Syren billets or sheets, but generally use the Byrnes thickness sander as a step prior to ripping sheets on my Byrnes saw, not after. Based on Syrens own description of their products, I assume they will come ready to rip without needing an additional thinning unless you need a specific dimension not offered.
  4. Great Job so far. Now the fun begins, as you can go in any direction. There a lot of traditional design elements to play with on these Peterboroughs. Wefalck, The museum may have been there but maybe not in its new building. It was a really fantastic museum though, highly recommend.
  5. Great explanation here, thank you (many years later). If this were done inappropriately would one observe twisting in the alignment of both deadeyes? I’m trying to isolate the cause of twisting in my own current shrouds, it seems I may have a few details out of sync.
  6. Ive found that with some sanding, and then some wipe-on poly the effect of the "stain" is reduced quite a bit.
  7. The Castaway: The extraordinary survival story of Narcisse Pelletier by Robert Macklin Hatchet Australia, 336 Pages Review: For anyone looking to take a break from the monotony of field manuals and reference materials, this lovely story traces the life and experiences of a truly extraordinary young man during the late 1850's, who through the rather normal circumstances of life at sea, becomes stranded on the Australian coast. I don't want to share too many details of the story, other than to say that it is an extremely well written and an engaging story. Its not particularly long, so a great weekender. There are two stories being told, one of Narcisse and the other of the Aboriginal experience as British colonists move ever slowly across the island continent. The culture clash and abhorrent treatment of the Aboriginal people is a stark contrast to the treatment and care that Narcisse receives as an adoptive member of the Night Island People. The story overall is light on sailing, exploring or other details of life at sea but is heavy on the mindset and realities of the young sailor and vastness of the world at that time. I highly recommend this book.
  8. Just stunning. Another one of those "God I hope to get there one day..." builds. Really, really nice.
  9. I consume them between audiobooks. My work, long commute and hobbys all allow plenty of listening time. I’m not sure how I’d pass a day otherwise.
  10. Another I came across after it was originally shared by someone on a Facebook group for wood ship models. This is a great episode of Preble Hall, and this episode is entirely on Model Ships. https://www.usna.edu/Museum/PrebleHall/index.php#panel6. Episode 13. Also, a bit more on the volunteers who work in the Ship Model Shop... I suspect some members of MSW might be working there. https://allhands.navy.mil/Stories/Display-Story/Article/1839521/ships-built-to-scale
  11. You can still get linen thread.... https://www.colophonbookarts.com/binding
  12. Oh dear! Yes, those frames are delicate, but thankfully, easily mended! I actually didn't fair this one too much, partly for this reason but also it just really didn't seem necessary.
  13. A lot of great tweaks on this build. I also note you had the foresight to build in the interior details on the lower deck as you go. I'll never understand why the AL instructions for this kit have you install details later. It makes it sooo much harder!
  14. It was not as obvious to me, but still is good advice for the next build. At the very least Ive found it a very helpful approach after going through the process of cutting holes in a planked hull.
  15. The worst too is that by the time you finish one, you likely bought three others to make deciding even harder!
  16. This may be a more technically difficult approach for a newbie, but I’ve found it easier to add scratch built gun port framing according to where they should be, and then plank around that. Otherwise it gets finicky to drill/file and cutout holes in a nicely planked hull.
  17. Yes that's correct, I think Im getting my cyano-acrylate and my poly-vinyl acetates mixed up
  18. 2nd on the Titebond, do not use CA. I love this kit, it was one of my firsts. I recommend also making a visit up to the Canadian Canoe Museum sometime, its not far from you (5 - 6 hrs drive). Great place, and they stock all the great canoe kits in their gift shop. Also check out https://www.amazon.com/Peterborough-canoes-Canoe-Company/dp/096982422X You can make some great water-slip decals to add a bit of realism too. There are a couple really easy mods you can implement later in the build that would really make it shine.
  19. Bookbinders glue is a poly-vinyl acrylate, so not much different than wood glue. Wood glue and/or PVA is will be your most inert adhesive over the long-term. There are other more stable adhesives out there that we rare book conservators use as alternatives to PVA for longevity, but those are impractical for use in ship-modeling.
  20. Indeed! I use a stool actually, and it should fit nicely under the bench when not in use. While seated, yes it might get tight, but one of the reasons I use a stool is that it is easily moved here and there to get out of the way.
  21. Thanks for all the great ideas. Ive been working on a draft design for new benches and plan to price that out once I work up a lumber list. For now, Ive got to translate the blueprints to a cultist, then to a lumber list. As Ive said previously Ive got very limited space, roughly 11' x 7' 4" (in the garage). What I want is a LOT of surface, place for plans (out of the way) and plenty of peg board, shelving. In these plans there are two built in overhanging shelves mainly to mount shop lights to. On the far wall, framed in 2x2 will be half custom cork board for plans measuring under 30 x 40" (I've yet to see plans at 40 x 60" but I may have to cross that bridge when I get there. This may already accommodate that. All surfaces are 24" deep, stand at 41.5" high (I mainly work standing at 6') with one sitting area (kneehole). I used Shapr3d (Free Version) on an iPad to work this up. I found it amazingly versatile, powerful with a very quick learning curve. Ive never used CAD anything before, granted this is all building with blocks so how hard could it be. Also, the entire thing is 2x4 and 3/4" plywood.
×
×
  • Create New...