Louie da fly
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Everything posted by Louie da fly
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Hi John, and welcome to MSW. This sounds like a very interesting method of building. It's certainly unusual - I've never heard of it before. I wish you well with your build. You certainly seem to have the right attitude to getting it right. On the other hand, if you do make mistakes (which we all do), be prepared to forgive yourself for them - modelling is very much a learning process and you get better and better as time goes on. Steven
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Welcome to MSW Martin. I can't give advice re kits, except to say start with something simple to allow you to build up your skills, and move on up to more complex and difficult models as you get more on top of the process. Don't start with the Vasa or the Royal Sovereign! And start a build log when you do begin your build. It gives you access to the great fund of knowledge available on MSW, and the members are more than willing to help and encourage you in your journey. Instructions for starting a build log are here: And have fun with it! That's what we're all here for.
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Doc Watson Plymouth England..... Ahoy!
Louie da fly replied to Doc Watson's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Doc, and welcome to MSW! I'd second Mark's advice to start a build log when you begin your model. For scratch builds, the instructions are here: A build log is a great way to show your work, get feedback, and also get encouragement, advice and help when you hit problems with your build. And don't forget to ask questions - there's no such thing as a dumb question. I applaud you idea of using some of Victory's actual oak for your build. Oak isn't usually advised for ship models because the grain is so coarse and can look out of scale in a model, but a little judicious use should be fine. Sounds like you've already built up valuable skills that will help you with your build. And of course living in Plymouth, you're not that far from the old girl herself (at least in Antipodean terms - less that 12,00 miles!) - you should be able to go and check out any details you're unsure of by looking at the original. Good luck with it! Steven -
That seems about right, considering the fact that milk from the supermarket comes in 1 and 2 litre containers. By the way, that's a really beautiful bucket and bailer. The quality of your work on the accessories - barrels, tarpaulins, baskets and now these - is superb and leaves me awestruck. Steven
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Beautiful, precise work, Bigpetr. It just keeps getting better . . .
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Sensible solution to the problem, Dick. And this picture backs you up: Caulking boat from de Materia Medica Constantinople mid 10th century. Morgan Library, m652.240ra Steven
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Very good. I was hoping that would be your answer. You're definitely on the right track.
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Fascinating paper. The principles in it relate not only to pictorial representations of ancient vessels but to any representation of a vessel that isn't photographic, no matter what its period. (And even photos can be misleading!) I found it very informative and useful.
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What kind of joint are you using between the two planks?
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Welcome to MSW, Rick! When you start your first kit, I'd highly recommend you start a build log - it's a really good way to get feedback, as well as help and advice. The instructions are here: The people here are very friendly and helpful - and don't get too intimidated by being a newbie. The experience level on MSW varies from total duffer to demi-god of modelling. I've been here for over five years and I'm still gobsmacked and overawed by the skill demonstrated by some of our members. The important thing ids to have a go, don't be afraid of mistakes (they're inevitable) but learn from them. And even the demi-gods make them - just much more interesting mistakes than we mere mortals do. And have fun with it, and ask lots of questions!
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No, the ropes are at the wrong end of the slots. If the sheaves (wheels) were in place the ropes would be around them, and would emerge from the block at the other end of the slots. It should look like this: I didn't have sheaves, so I made fake "slots", with a hole at each end which went right through the block, and the solid part between them acted as though there was a sheave there. I hope that makes sense. If you have sheaves, then certainly use them. If not, you might like to try my method of "fake slots". Steven
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Ah, Dick. We can always rely on you to ferret out the obscure historical facts to make a model that is just that much better . . .
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I was going to comment on those baskets as well. They're briliant. Artists usually don't bother showing anything as prosaic as sounding for depth, but here's an English picture from maybe late 15th early 16th century. It's the earliest one (and perhaps the only one) I know of showing a lead line in use.
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Planking methods
Louie da fly replied to Charlie pal's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I know that sounds like a drastic step, but it might be the right way to go. Otherwise, years from now, the model might still be sneering at you every time you look at it . -
This is very exciting. 3D printing fascinates me, but I really have no idea how to do it myself. I look forward to seeing your figures, to see if the size of 3D printed figures is correct for what they are doing, or whether you'll need to do some adjusting. I note the sounding line in the last screenshot - so this is a piece of rope with a weight on the end? Lastly, just curious - the archaeological report gives the brick size as 28.5 cm x 13.4 cm x 6.4 cm. Are the bricks you've made approximately this size in full scale?
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Wow. Just, wow.
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Looking good, Dick. Are you going to put a "hockey stick" top on the mast? I know you've got some very interesting ideas on how that all worked and it would be good to see it carried out in practice.
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Welcome to the ranks of mediaeval ship modellers - a rather small and very select group . Information for ships of this period is often scarce and a lot is based on "educated guesswork" from archaeological finds. However there are a couple of pretty good knarr wrecks that have been discovered and quite a bit of info available on them. In my opinion, the research and speculation is at least half the fun. I'll be interested in seeing the progress of your build.
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Hi Bluebeard, As far as I know there aren't any logs for Marisstella's cog, but if you look in the pre-1500 sections for kits and scratch builds, you'll find some cog builds which might be of help to you. Are you working on this model at the moment, or planning to start it? If so, I'd recommend you start a build log of your own - a great way to get help and advice. There are quite a few of us interested in things mediaeval, so you're in good company. And you'll get a fair bit of help and attention because we mediaeval freaks tend to feel like the poor relations compared with later periods, and stick together
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Very nice work, Rodolfo. Unfortunately commercial suppliers don't really think much about making equipment for mediaeval and Renaissance ships, and the only option seems to be to make one's own. But I've noticed more and more people are getting interested in these periods, so perhaps the suppliers will eventually start making stuff for them. You're doing a beautiful job with your model.
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Planking methods
Louie da fly replied to Charlie pal's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The main issue with this is making sure you don't end up with the last plank too wide or too narrow. If you have a look at the planking tutorials they advise dividing the area to be planked into "bands" of maybe half a dozen planks, using either battens or threads running from one end of the ship to the other. And then subdividing the bands into individual plank widths by making marks on the frames, and making sure your plank widths actually align with these marks, to stop "creeping cumulative inaccuracies". As far as I can see, if you do this carefully and methodically there shouldn't be any reason not to start from both sides and end up in the middle. -
Ah and on the cover of the book I can see a "canoe tree", from which a panel of bark has been stripped to make the canoe . If you keep your eyes open you often see them out in the countryside. Simple, but apparently very worthwhile vessels if you knew how to deal with them.
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Hi Harvey, and welcome to MSW. Do you have a next project planned? I'd highly recommend you start a build log. A good way to get to know the people here, and get help and encouragement. The instructions are here: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24705-before-you-post-your-build-log-please-read-this-starting-and-naming-your-build-log/ Living where I do, I wouldn't mind seeing some photos of your canoe. Steven
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Moltinmark, that's a very nice model. For your Sea Witch you should start a build log. The instructions are here: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24705-before-you-post-your-build-log-please-read-this-starting-and-naming-your-build-log/ Not only do you get to show off your build, but it's a great way to get help and advice (and encouragement), and ask questions when you hit problems. And don't get to worried about being a beginner - the skill level here ranges from total newbies (and you're no longer one of them) to the demigods of modelling, and everybody in between. The people here are very helpful and friendly, as you've probably already worked out. And have fun with it. Steven
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