Louie da fly
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Everything posted by Louie da fly
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Photos! We need photos! But I'd agree with earlier posters - start a build log. And put the photos in that. A build log is a great way to get feedback from other members, and help and advice. This is how to start yours:
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Heroic (and imaginative!) solutions. Just one question - why do the additions to the sternpost not go all the way down to the keel? You've probably got a good reason, but I can't see it at the moment.- 332 replies
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- fluit
- abel tasman
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Those sails look really good. I can see the glue would hold them in the curved shape as though the wind is blowing on them once it dried, but how did you get them to take the shape?
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Golden Hind 1577 by goemon - 1:150
Louie da fly replied to goemon's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
You're doing a very good job on this, Goemon. It's becoming a very attractive (and beautifully detailed) model. -
Looking good, Clare. Sorry to hear the carpet monster has struck again!
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- hanse kogge
- shipyard
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Probably the best bed linen is stuff that is old and worn thin - just before it's ready to be thrown out, but not so thin it's ready to rip apart when you look at it. Then it's closer to the thickness (to scale) of the original.
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Beautiful work on the planking, Bigpetr. That view from the bow is just amazing - what an exquisite shape! I like what you're doing with the triangles. If you can get it to work without the paint "bleeding", I think scoring the lines is probably the better way to go. Regarding the colour scheme, I like to top one with the single black stripe better than the bottom one with two. But that's just me.
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1 mm should probably be ok. My planks are about that thick and I only have trouble at the stern where the plank has to twist from almost horizontal to almost vertical in a very short length- which you probably won't have on your model.
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- longship
- Helga Holm
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Hi Norseman, haven't seen any progress photos for awhile. Are you still working on this?
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Well, I've fixed the wrong track I'd got onto. I removed the outer plank on the port side (because it couldn't be fixed) and cut back the next one to the shape I'd pencilled in. Then made the replacement for the plank I'd removed and put it in place: Then repeated the process on the starboard side: And now that's sorted, I can get on with adding extra planks.
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- Tudor
- restoration
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Beautiful work, Rodolfo! By the way I see this picture is from the book "Le navi di Colombo" - Heinrich Winter - Ed. MURSIA, but does the book tell what is the original source?
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But . . . beware of the day, if your snark be a Boojum! For then - you will softly and suddenly vanish away, and never be met with again . . .
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- keelless
- reverse clinker
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I hadn't realised the model dated back so far! You're doing a very good job with her. I'm enjoying watching your progress. One of your photos shows the ship seen from directly ahead - is there supposed to be a part filling in that strange gap at the front of the forecastle, or is that the way the model has it? The reason I'm asking is the pictures I have indicate a sharp point at the front of the forecastle, with a panel across further back and higher up (if that makes sense) where the shape of the forecastle dictates it. Here's my interpretation of this in my Great Harry and here's a detail (the first 2 pics from from the painting above) showing the evidence for it You might also like to consider silkspan for the sails - it's used as fabric covering for model aircraft and is very fine. I haven't tried it myself, but quite a few people have reported good results.
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You've done a beautiful job with this, Rodolfo. It's so much better than what the model recommends.
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Yes, if you look at contemporary pictures of galleons, generally the foremast is raked forward and the mizzen(s) is raked aft (though on this example though bonaventure mizzen is raked aft the mizzen seems to be raked forward for some reason) . So the model is correct.
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- english galleon
- revell
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Actually, I've realised that at the bow I've been on completely the wrong track. I've drawn in pencil where the planks should be going at the bow. If I kept going the way I was I'd end up with a horrible mish-mash - similar to the bow planking you find on those model kits that just give you parallel sided planks and don't care that it's not the way it was done. I think I owe it to myself and also to the people who've posted tutorials, and even more to those who've given me valuable advice personally, to pull the wrong bits off and get it right. I probably still have to tweak the pencil lines a bit, but now I think I'm (finally) on the right track. Planking has never been my strong point, but if I'm patient and painstaking, I think I'll improve in this area to the point I actually know what I'm doing.
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- Tudor
- restoration
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Well, after a glitch that resulted in my removing and replacing two planks that I'd already glued down, I seem to have picked up momentum . . . It looks worse in the photos than on the model, but I'll need to compensate for a width problem with the foremost plank on the starboard side - it's got a wave in it between frames 3 and 4 caused by the previous plank, that I hadn't noticed till it was too late. Still, my attitude with all this is that the Great Harry is where I'm learning my trade with planking. Mistakes just get put down to experience, with a resolve to avoid that particular mistake in future builds. There are inequalities in the surface of adjacent planks, due to unequal thickness planks and other issues. This should all be resolved when it comes to sanding.
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- Tudor
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Very enjoyable following this. I like the unusual blocks. Are you going to have shrouds, or is the bipod mast supposed to make them unnecessary?
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Maybe the best thing to do would try it on some scrap - duplicate the overlapping strakes as best you can and drill a 1mm pilot hole and see if it breaks. Then follow it up with a 2mm drill. Scrap "feasibility studies" are always worthwhile. If it stuffs up, you haven't lost anything.
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Regarding the weight of the sails, you might like to try paper instead of fabric - it can be very convincing - see https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25784-barco-catalan-by-gbmodeler-148-scale-mediterranean-fishing-boat-finished/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-756498 I agree, the painting is a bit unclear - I magnified my original as much as I could, but it's hard to tell whether the mainyard is single or double. Double mainyards are very common in contemporary representations, but I think there's enough uncertainty there for you to feel justified in making yours single.
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It's very interesting following this build and seeing your ingenious solutions to problems. Walnut has a reputation of being easily broken and unwilling to bend without splintering. However, I'm using it on my Great Harry without much trouble, though my planks are pretty thin because the model is at 1:200 scale. What is the thickness of the planks on the Helga Holm? Your rivets look very good. Yes, paper or card would probably be good for the other side.
- 179 replies
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- longship
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Interesting problem. The general principle is that in the Mediterranean they fixed the lower ends of the shrouds with pairs of blocks, while in the Atlantic they used deadeyes (caps de mouton). Columbus set forth from Palos de la Frontera, on the southern coast of Spain, on the Atlantic side of the Straits of Gibraltar. So perhaps his ships were fitted with caps de mouton, as was this Spanish carrack of 1475, from an altarpiece depicting the battle of Zumaia, off Gibraltar. Note that these are fixed on the outer side of the hull.
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