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Louie da fly

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Everything posted by Louie da fly

  1. Louie da fly
    Very nice work, Marcus.
  2. Louie da fly
    Have a look here: and following pages where Siggi explains how he made the figures from brass sheet and copper wire, and clothes from rice paper. Your ship is 2.5 times the scale and this technique might not work for you - but then again maybe it would!
  3. Louie da fly
    You could try making your own cases - https://modelshipworld.com/topic/10344-10th-11th-century-byzantine-dromon-by-louie-da-fly-150-finished/page/54/ I worked out the overall cost - came to about $100 Australian. The main cost was the polycarbonate. It would have cost more if I'd also put polycarbonate on the back, but I have plans for a background - but that's going to be a big (A1 size) print of a picture which will cost me another $20 from the office supplies place. So $120 overall. I don't know how that compares with the cost of the ones above. If it's a lot cheaper it might be worth considering. Bill, the rake on your mizzen is better, but it still looks a bit extreme to me. Does the manufacturer supply any views of the finished kit from side-on? I expect not, otherwise you'd have mentioned it. Even your bonaventure (means "good adventure", or perhaps "good journey" in French) mizzen looks like it has a pretty extreme rake. However that may be the way the manufacturer intended it. But I'd be going with a rake on the mizzen that's about halfway between the angle of the main mast and that of the bonaventure.
  4. Louie da fly
    Beautiful work, Silverman! Not only the barrels (which are superb - I especially like the hoops made from (millet?) broom bristles), but also that amazing winch. It really makes the vessel come alive! Are you planning to put any people on board?
  5. Louie da fly
    I'm working on making the case for the dromon. A plywood body, with the "glass" made of [Edit] polycarbonate acrylic [/Edit]. Front view Back view (from "inside") The [Edit] polycarbonate acrylic [/Edit] is a separate structure which will be screwed to the body once the model is inside. I used "metal" screws because of their fine threads. Because the [Edit] polycarbonate acrylic [/Edit] is so fragile I had to be very careful about making the holes - first I drilled small pilot holes through both body and [Edit] polycarbonate acrylic [/Edit] - then larger ones - almost as wide as the outside of the screw threads. I rubbed each screw against a bar of soap (to provide lubrication), and slowly and carefully turned the screw, which acted as a die-cutter, making a female thread in the hole in the [Edit] polycarbonate acrylic [/Edit]. The guy who supplied and cut the [Edit] polycarbonate acrylic [/Edit] to size showed me how to do the gluing between the pieces - didn't reckon my inexperience, so there are a few places where the glue has interfered with the pure clarity of the surface. But not too bad for a first time. I'll be staining the plywood so it doesn't just look like cheap pine. And I have some ideas for the background panel. But don't expect anything to happen for a while. I have other things that have to be done first.
  6. Louie da fly
    Photos! We need photos! But I'd agree with earlier posters - start a build log. And put the photos in that. A build log is a great way to get feedback from other members, and help and advice. This is how to start yours:
  7. Louie da fly
    Heroic (and imaginative!) solutions. Just one question - why do the additions to the sternpost not go all the way down to the keel? You've probably got a good reason, but I can't see it at the moment.
  8. Louie da fly
    Those sails look really good. I can see the glue would hold them in the curved shape as though the wind is blowing on them once it dried, but how did you get them to take the shape?
  9. Louie da fly
    You're doing a very good job on this, Goemon. It's becoming a very attractive (and beautifully detailed) model.
  10. Louie da fly
    Looking good, Clare. Sorry to hear the carpet monster has struck again!
  11. Louie da fly
    Probably the best bed linen is stuff that is old and worn thin - just before it's ready to be thrown out, but not so thin it's ready to rip apart when you look at it. Then it's closer to the thickness (to scale) of the original.
  12. Louie da fly
    Beautiful work on the planking, Bigpetr. That view from the bow is just amazing - what an exquisite shape! I like what you're doing with the triangles. If you can get it to work without the paint "bleeding", I think scoring the lines is probably the better way to go. Regarding the colour scheme, I like to top one with the single black stripe better than the bottom one with two. But that's just me.
  13. Louie da fly
    Thank you.
  14. Louie da fly
    1 mm should probably be ok. My planks are about that thick and I only have trouble at the stern where the plank has to twist from almost horizontal to almost vertical in a very short length- which you probably won't have on your model.
  15. Louie da fly
    Hi Norseman, haven't seen any progress photos for awhile. Are you still working on this?
  16. Louie da fly
    Well, I've fixed the wrong track I'd got onto. I removed the outer plank on the port side (because it couldn't be fixed) and cut back the next one to the shape I'd pencilled in. Then made the replacement for the plank I'd removed and put it in place: Then repeated the process on the starboard side: And now that's sorted, I can get on with adding extra planks.
  17. Louie da fly
    Ah, bed linen -the old standby!
  18. Louie da fly
    Beautiful work, Rodolfo! By the way I see this picture is from the book "Le navi di Colombo" - Heinrich Winter - Ed. MURSIA, but does the book tell what is the original source?
  19. Louie da fly
    But . . . beware of the day, if your snark be a Boojum! For then - you will softly and suddenly vanish away, and never be met with again . . .
  20. Louie da fly
    I hadn't realised the model dated back so far! You're doing a very good job with her. I'm enjoying watching your progress. One of your photos shows the ship seen from directly ahead - is there supposed to be a part filling in that strange gap at the front of the forecastle, or is that the way the model has it? The reason I'm asking is the pictures I have indicate a sharp point at the front of the forecastle, with a panel across further back and higher up (if that makes sense) where the shape of the forecastle dictates it. Here's my interpretation of this in my Great Harry and here's a detail (the first 2 pics from from the painting above) showing the evidence for it You might also like to consider silkspan for the sails - it's used as fabric covering for model aircraft and is very fine. I haven't tried it myself, but quite a few people have reported good results.
  21. Louie da fly
    You've done a beautiful job with this, Rodolfo. It's so much better than what the model recommends.
  22. Louie da fly
    Yes, if you look at contemporary pictures of galleons, generally the foremast is raked forward and the mizzen(s) is raked aft (though on this example though bonaventure mizzen is raked aft the mizzen seems to be raked forward for some reason) . So the model is correct.
  23. Louie da fly
    Actually, I've realised that at the bow I've been on completely the wrong track. I've drawn in pencil where the planks should be going at the bow. If I kept going the way I was I'd end up with a horrible mish-mash - similar to the bow planking you find on those model kits that just give you parallel sided planks and don't care that it's not the way it was done. I think I owe it to myself and also to the people who've posted tutorials, and even more to those who've given me valuable advice personally, to pull the wrong bits off and get it right. I probably still have to tweak the pencil lines a bit, but now I think I'm (finally) on the right track. Planking has never been my strong point, but if I'm patient and painstaking, I think I'll improve in this area to the point I actually know what I'm doing.
  24. Louie da fly
    Well, after a glitch that resulted in my removing and replacing two planks that I'd already glued down, I seem to have picked up momentum . . . It looks worse in the photos than on the model, but I'll need to compensate for a width problem with the foremost plank on the starboard side - it's got a wave in it between frames 3 and 4 caused by the previous plank, that I hadn't noticed till it was too late. Still, my attitude with all this is that the Great Harry is where I'm learning my trade with planking. Mistakes just get put down to experience, with a resolve to avoid that particular mistake in future builds. There are inequalities in the surface of adjacent planks, due to unequal thickness planks and other issues. This should all be resolved when it comes to sanding.
  25. Louie da fly
    Brilliant work. I dunno how you do it, mate.

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